Rough install guide for 5th port injection kits

[djuosnteisn]

This is just a first attempt at the install guide for the fifth port injection kit. I've been super strapped for time (and insanely behind in tuning), so i didn't have the opportunity to make it real pretty and show each and every step..... but it's really not that difficult of an install.


The install is basically a 2 parter.... the ITFP (in tank fuel pump) and the Aux Inj set up.



DW65c ITFP and fuel filter sock:

First go to your local harbor freight, and pick up an Air Nibbler. They're cheap, and a God send for this part of the install. The fuel pump resides under the back seat on the driver's side of the car. The bottom cushion of the back seat simply pops up and out. There will be a cover plate over the ITFP access hole, with 3 phillips screws in it. Remove the plate.

Disconnect your battery's negative terminal. Try not to blow your house up.

You'll notice that the access hole is hardly big enough to remove the pump through, this is where the super nibbler comes into play. Nibble the hell out of that hole to make room for the ITFP removal:

(this pic is of the ms6, the ms3 hole is even smaller)



Here's a video showing how to get the fuel line off the pump nipple for the ms3:

ITFP line removal - YouTube

ITFP line removal - YouTube

The ms6 has a different clip (same as the return line on the hpfp), and comes off easy with a dental pick.


The SST (special service tool) is handy for getting the white ring off the ITFP, but many have had success with a BFS and BFH (screwdriver and hammer). There are lots of good write ups for the process already, it's not that difficult.

Wear goggles while doing this. Fuel will spray and splash, and you don't want it in your eyes. Also, do it on a calm day, so no dirt blows into your tank while the pump is out.


Disassemble the fuel pump assembly, and drop the oem pump / filter out of the bottom. Put the new filter on the new DW65c pump, and move over the white spacer from the old pump to the new one:




Use the PTFE o-ring lube, and put one of the supplied o-rings onto the nipple above the white piece (we only use 1 of the o-rings, the 2nd is used on evo x installations). Sometimes the old o-ring will stay stuck in the pump assembly, and you may need a dental pick to dig it out. Be sure to not leave it in on accident and try to run 2 o-rings. The pump assembly will not fit back together.

Once the new pump is in the assembly, just put it back in the tank, and button everything up. Depending on how much you nibble away, you may need to rig some sort of cover or something.


Some tips for the ITFP swap:
- Keep things clean. Have a vacuum handy, and clean up the top of the tank area real well before taking the ITFP ring off.
- Wear goggles, not worth going blind over.
- Have LOTS of rags near by, gas will be leaking out of the bucket, and you need something to sop it up with.
- Don't force anything. If you're having to force something, your doing it wrong, lol (except for getting the ring off, this requires lots of force, lol. You may even need to use a screw driver to keep the bucket from spinning while removing the ring, it's a pita).




Aux Fuel Installation:

Split Second usually sends lots of instruction manuals with their controllers, but it's important to use the voltage referenced one for this installation:




First, use some velcro or something, and find a nice location to mount the SplitSecond aux fuel controller:




Here's MSPaint art showing what the SS controller wires go to:




You can also cut a small hole in the wire braid if necessary, and pull individual wires out at different locations as needed for a cleaner install:




For power, it's advisable to use an "add a fuse" line on a switched fuse in the fuse block. You don't want the SS controller powered on all the time, it must be switched with the ignition or it'll drain your battery:




Don't slack when it comes to this installation. Reliability is only as good as you hook it up, so throw the vampire clamps in the trash and solder / heat shrink everything:




For the ground connection, i soldered the black wire to the ring lug supplied with the SS controller (you can just pull the plastic crimp part off with pliers), and then attached it where the battery's negative terminal attaches to the chassis.


For our voltage source, we're going to use the MAF sensor signal wire. Having an "airflow based" input to the aux fuel controller is one of the most beautiful things about this setup... Your aux fuel will be accurately sprayed according to the air being ingested by the motor, allowing for an even percentage increase in fuel, and much simplified tuning in ATR / Versatune.

Use the middle MAF sensor wire, regardless of color (this wire color is from an ms6, but will be different on a ms3):




Next up, we need to attach our trigger circuit (at least for the beta kits, i'm going to have Split Second integrate the trigger circuit in future batches).

The trigger circuit has 4 input wires, 1 output wire, and 1 ground wire. I know all the wires are red, but it'll be obvious which is which:




You want to use the ECU's spark coil transistor control wire as an input to the trigger circuit. It's the left most wire at the coil packs:




You can just carefully scrape the insulation back, and solder each of the 4 input wires to each ECU wire. Solder and tape em well, and make sure they won't come loose:
(these pics show different cylinder wires, that's why the colors are different)





From there, just connect the black trigger circuit wire to a good ground (you can use the ground lug on the copper bracket near the HPFP), and solder the trigger circuit output wire to the yellow and black Split Second wire.


At this point, we need to install the aux fuel injector boss pipe using the supplied silicone couplers and t-bolt clamps:




Using a lil bit of motor oil on the inj o-rings, install them into the injector boss, and attach the dual inj rail on top:




!!I've tried to clean everything before shipping it out, but it's super important to verify all pipes, fuel lines, injector bosses, couplers, etc are clean and free of debris!!


Next, remove the blue fuel supply line from the HPFP, and install the supplied fuel tap unit in it's place. Then re-install the oem fuel supply line onto the new tap. There are 2 ports on the fuel tap, one will be used for supply to our aux injectors, and the other can optionally be used for a fuel pressure gauge, or simply capped if desired:




Using the supplied fuel line, 1/8 npt to -6 AN adapter, and -6 AN to -10 AN adapter, hook the fuel tap to the aux inj rail (use teflon tape on the 1/8 npt fitting):




On the far end of the aux inj rail, install the o-ringed -10 AN plug
*** NOTE ***
Be sure to use one of the o-rings off the supplied fittings that came with the rail, and put it on your -6 to -10 AN adapter. The rail will not seal properly without it:




At this point, you're pretty much done. Just tidy up the engine bay, hook up the aux injector connectors (using the supplied EV6 to EV1 adapter and a dab of dielectric grease) and reconnect the negative battery terminal.

*** tip on the EV6 to EV1 adapter ***

The EV1 to EV6 injector adapters are a pita to get onto the split second injector pig tails. I had mine work loose this weekend (noticed after seeing wot AFRs in the 15's, IDCs around 130, and some KR in the 2-3 range). It was an easy fix, but worth mentioning here.

Put the adapter onto the SS pig tail connector first. Then install the adapter onto the injectors last. It's much easier to hulk the adapters onto the pig tail while it's off the injector. You should have quite a bit of slack on the wires, and can easily inspect to make sure the retention clips are seated properly.

Once it's on the SS connectors, the EV6 side pops onto the injectors with much less force.





The SS controllers shipped with the kit will have a base map installed on them, but it's best to not leave it up to chance. At this point, you'll want to connect your computer to the Split Second controller, and up load a desired aux fuel map.

That how-to is coming soon, and i'll provide a link to it from here when it's ready.

[dpolseno41]

Shit's about to get real, real.

[TWOptSL0W]

o tits im going to mess shit up

[superskaterxes]

fuck all the haters that said my engine bay is a rats nest!!!!! hahahaha

welcome to being the guinea pig for 50 different things hahaha

[Dano]

Blah blah blah.


Tappin

[pzr2874]

Holy shit DJ... You going to work on some harnesses soon?

[cld12pk2go]

Very elegant.

[atvfreek]

Great write up man. Can't wait to see the power all the built BT guys will be able to make with this kit

Freekn tappin

[djuosnteisn]

Originally Posted by pzr2874 Holy shit DJ... You going to work on some harnesses soon?

You mean like plug and play harnesses? Probably not. The best i plan on doing is having SS integrate the trigger circuit into their controller. People will still need to tap the 4 coil, maf, and solder up the rest of the stuff. It's no more difficult than a wot box install in terms of wiring.


I'll try to get some better results today some time, and write up that R4 software how-to.

[djuosnteisn]

Originally Posted by superskaterxes fuck all the haters that said my engine bay is a rats nest!!!!! hahahaha welcome to being the guinea pig for 50 different things hahaha

Lolol, this is so true. Power doesn't have to be pretty. It's nice when it is, but ugly power is just fine with me

[TiGraySpeed6]

Nice to see what's behind the magic
Thanks!

[Dano]

good read mr jones...looking forward to seeing some BT E85 setups making some real power....

[Ziggo]

Son of a bitch. I didn't realize the CFM tap snapped right in between the fuel line and the HPFP, I thought it was just an expensive inline tap and you would have to cut the line.

They are out of stock for now eh?

[PapaSmurf]

Sweet write up.

I need teh ghes


Sent from my flying tapadildo

[djuosnteisn]

Originally Posted by Ziggo Son of a bitch. I didn't realize the CFM tap snapped right in between the fuel line and the HPFP, I thought it was just an expensive inline tap and you would have to cut the line. They are out of stock for now eh?

They should have stock now. My last 5 have already shipped, and i'm sure they stock more than 5 at a time.

This really is the simplest setup... as plug and play as possible.

[TWOptSL0W]

dj, i noticed you were using white teflon tape on your npt connections...im pretty sure you should be using yellow. and just to verify, no tape for an fittings?

[Ziggo]

DJ did you do any crushing of the regulator or are your results from he stock fuel pressure?

[superskaterxes]

i used this on all my fittings. i also used it to seal some blind plugs in my head's oil passages and even the SD RV i used to have on my rail and i have never had a problem.

[socks]

Originally Posted by TWOptSL0W dj, i noticed you were using white teflon tape on your npt connections...im pretty sure you should be using yellow. and just to verify, no tape for an fittings?

Yep, the yellow is fuel safe.

Gas may leak from those fittings before long.

I didnt pay attention, but you also dont need to use teflon tape on flare fittings.

[djuosnteisn]

Originally Posted by TWOptSL0W dj, i noticed you were using white teflon tape on your npt connections...im pretty sure you should be using yellow. and just to verify, no tape for an fittings?

The white teflon i used was PTFE... and should be plenty tolerant of fuel IMO, even with high mixes of ethanol (which i run). If you feel more comfortable with yellow, go that route.

And Sean's right, no tape should be necessary on the AN fittings, just get em tight.

Originally Posted by Ziggo DJ did you do any crushing of the regulator or are your results from he stock fuel pressure?

I did not crush my regulator, so all results are from stock regulator setup. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge in my 6 yet... so i didn't want to change anything quite yet, til i have a way to quantify gains.

But from what i've seen, i don't think i'll ever need to crush the regulator.

[djuosnteisn]

Added this vid to OP for how to get the fuel line off the ITFP. The white clip does not get removed, you simply press it in to release (@SilverDemon thanks for the tip):

ITFP line removal - YouTube

ITFP line removal - YouTube

[socks]

catch that splooge.

That line probably has 40psi of fuel in it the first time you bust it loose.

[Dano]

Pull fuse run car 5 mins.


Tappin

[Haltech]

Nice right up DJ

[djuosnteisn]

Thanks boss.

[TWOptSL0W]

Originally Posted by Dano Pull fuse run car 5 mins. Tappin

pull electrical plug on fuel pump itself and run car 10 seconds, then no splooge

[djuosnteisn]

You can still splooge in the rag... just won't be gas.

[Dano]

Originally Posted by TWOptSL0W pull electrical plug on fuel pump itself and run car 10 seconds, then no splooge

hahaah

well that would be too easy...right?

[TWOptSL0W]

depressurizing the system is easy... getting the cap off is not... possible fuel tank removal next week

[djuosnteisn]

Hahaha, or just wait for the tool.

[TWOptSL0W]

Found this little tool

Gas Tank Fuel Pump R by Lock Technology (part#LTI940) / Shop Equipment

im off to advanced auto to see what i can find

[Tomas]

I just bought a new lid. It's like $23. If the penetrant does not work the bitch is getting the chopper.

[TWOptSL0W]

Originally Posted by Tomas I just bought a new lid. It's like $23. If the penetrant does not work the bitch is getting the chopper.

omg thats such a better idea... look at you thinking outside the box lol i may do that if this tool breaks the cap

[Tomas]

I have my moments.
#18. Plate

http://screencast.com/t/B2QbHiJhNK

[bcmurphy87]

Went and just gave the auto-zone rental a try and it got it out after a fresh coat of penetrating oil. The core charge was 90 but you get it back when you return it. Also came with a bronze punch and sand filled hammer that I'm sure help to loosen it up.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1342404627.978183.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1342404643.687730.jpg

[Dano]

That is damn good to know. I would have never thought AZ would have had such a tool.

[djuosnteisn]

One more tip on the install....

The EV1 to EV6 injector adapters are a pita to get onto the split second injector pig tails. I had mine work loose this weekend (noticed after seeing wot AFRs in the 15's, IDCs around 130, and some KR in the 2-3 range). It was an easy fix, but worth mentioning here.

Put the adapter onto the SS pig tail connector first. Then install the adapter onto the injectors last. It's much easier to hulk the adapters onto the pig tail while it's off the injector. You should have quite a bit of slack on the wires, and can easily inspect to make sure the retention clips are seated properly.

Once it's on the SS connectors, the EV6 side pops onto the injectors with much less force.


My $.02. I'm adding this step to the OP as well.

[mtnrunner]

If you are still worried about it popping off you can just use a zip tie to hold it together.

[Ziggo]

Great find on the tool.


Zigatapatalka

[bcmurphy87]

Well guys all wire tuck, solder and zip tied. 2 days of the grind and it is complete. Enjoy ImageUploadedByTapatalk1342496702.517490.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1342496712.571419.jpg