MAF Calibration Tutorial

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by NavySVO @ms3blackmica can the 4th gear portion of the cal be done on a dyno? I only ask because: A. I want to dyno the car for numbers, and I can then kill 2 birds with one stone, and B. It aleviates trying to find an area around here where I can open up to that speed while logging, traffic and cops.

of course it can be done a dyno !

[ms3blackmica]

@Pierre Loubser

how did that scalar work out for you ?

[MizzyMS3]

This is great! Thank you for this!

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by MizzyMS3 This is great! Thank you for this!

Not a problem.

If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.

[UnknownSuperhero]

If this was covered before, I apologize. I am looking for a consensus.

1. What is the target # and what is an acceptable #. (for example, anything less than .08 etc. with 0 being ideal.) Also, is there a oh crap moment? (If it is above 10.0 do a maf cal right now kind of thing)
2. Is a + or - number prefered if there are LTFT values.
3. Do you believe revisions are necessary? If so at what interval.
4. If someone is doing a cal, starting with + numbers, next revision they are -, and the third revision they are back in the +, what is the best course of action?


Thanks a bunch in advance. This is a great tool!

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by UnknownSuperhero If this was covered before, I apologize. I am looking for a consensus. 1. What is the target # and what is an acceptable #. (for example, anything less than .08 etc. with 0 being ideal.) Also, is there a oh crap moment? (If it is above 10.0 do a maf cal right now kind of thing) 2. Is a + or - number prefered if there are LTFT values. 3. Do you believe revisions are necessary? If so at what interval. 4. If someone is doing a cal, starting with + numbers, next revision they are -, and the third revision they are back in the +, what is the best course of action? Thanks a bunch in advance. This is a great tool!

1. I am usually happy if the LTFT's are within 3-4%. 3-4% seems to be a good number between cold and warm weather changes. Although trims up to 6% aren't really an issue either. 10% really isnt an "OH CRAP" moment. My fuel trims will go to +10% when i put the AC on. This is normal. I'd say anything in the 20% range is an "oh shit i need to do a maf cal now" type of moment.

2. They can be + or - (absolute value). The ECU will either be pulling fuel out (-) or adding fuel in (+). As long as your within + or - 3%, you have a good maf calibration.

3. What exactly do you mean? It usually takes a couple revisions until your MAF cal is nice and tight. If you add any intake flow mods, you will have to revise.

4. This can happen a lot. For example, someone might have a 4.7% LTFT. Then they take 4.7% out, and now they have a LTFT of -3.9%. And then they try to add 3.9% and the same thing happens. This is usually the cause of not putting enough miles on the car before taking a maf cal log. Also some people like to only add as much as they need..For example, if your LTFT is +4.7%, some people might add only 4% to the maf breakpoint in order to bring the LTFT's around 0.7%. That is another way of going about it. Takes some time and practice. Also make sure you have no leaks.

[phate]

Originally Posted by UnknownSuperhero If this was covered before, I apologize. I am looking for a consensus. 1. What is the target # and what is an acceptable #. (for example, anything less than .08 etc. with 0 being ideal.) Also, is there a oh crap moment? (If it is above 10.0 do a maf cal right now kind of thing) 2. Is a + or - number prefered if there are LTFT values. 3. Do you believe revisions are necessary? If so at what interval. 4. If someone is doing a cal, starting with + numbers, next revision they are -, and the third revision they are back in the +, what is the best course of action? Thanks a bunch in advance. This is a great tool!

Target trim is 0%, you are correcting towards this value, based on the latest learned trims. Trims will change throughout the year, so I don't worry for anything less than 6 or 8%. If I see trims beyond those (after a good Cal), I know there are other issues (leaks).

Negative is probably preferred for the closed to open loop transition range. The thinking is the car will be biased rich as it transitions, thus being safer. It doesn't exactly work this way, but whatev, it's a good sentiment haha.

Revisions are usually only necessary when hard parts change. I tend to leave them as is so I can identify significant variances caused by other issues. Again, 1 proper Cal is typically all it takes. [If you dick with vtcs or repair issues, this may not be true].

If you're doing a MAF Cal right, you won't have revisions with significant variance after. If you see big swings, you're likely trying to tune around a leak.

[ms3blackmica]

UPDATE:

I cleaned up the original post as it was a bit messy. It is much cleaner now.

I also editied the original post with instructions and an example on how to scale your MAF curve for a larger sized intake, as it seems many people are upgrading and want to know how to adjust their MAF curve for this.

Cheers


EDIT: @Raider, Can you update the OP of this thread that was placed in the KB section? I wanted to edit it myself but i do not have access to do so. All you have to update is the text at the beginning of the OP with the text you see in this thread. Thanks

[Raider]

done

[Island mazda]

Originally Posted by ms3blackmica @Haltech, Thank you for doing that ! However please stay tuned, as i will be uploading one last youtube video for WOT Maf Calibrations shortly and you can add that to the zip file

by not doing that u thnk it can make my car run rich and when i hit 4k rpm it kind of work better

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by Island mazda by not doing that u thnk it can make my car run rich and when i hit 4k rpm it kind of work better

what?

yes you need to perform a OL-WOT MAF Calibration if you are not hitting targets provided you have no leaks.

[Island mazda]

When I accelerate my car really burn Rich and black smoke comes out when I check the spark plug they are really really black

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by Island mazda When I accelerate my car really burn Rich and black smoke comes out when I check the spark plug they are really really black

what is your AFR when this happens?

I hope you know that black smoke out of a DISI is pretty normal

[Island mazda]

I have an aem afr and it goes to 17 to 18 then it stops to read 3 dots and red light

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by Island mazda I have an aem afr and it goes to 17 to 18 then it stops to read 3 dots and red light

I really hope your aux wideband is wrong.

you need to fix your car.

judging by the other posts you have made in other threads, you say you have a gt40 turbo?

did you install a larger intake and not scale the maf ?

[Island mazda]

Originally Posted by ms3blackmica I really hope your aux wideband is wrong. you need to fix your car. judging by the other posts you have made in other threads, you say you have a gt40 turbo? did you install a larger intake and not scale the maf ?

Yes I do and I cp piston,front mount intercooler and 3" intake ...the car won't even go a hill

Originally Posted by Island mazda Yes I do and I cp piston,front mount intercooler and 3" intake ...the car won't even go a hill

I don't even self know how to scale it? I order a cobb it should be here 2marrow

[jdmage_mx5]

Originally Posted by Island mazda Yes I do and I cp piston,front mount intercooler and 3" intake ...the car won't even go a hill I don't even self know how to scale it? I order a cobb it should be here 2marrow

Crap dude, stop where you are at and sell your car....or put it back to stock. I'm no expert but I'm not sure you are ready for any mods. LOL.

[Island mazda]

Originally Posted by jdmage_mx5 Crap dude, stop where you are at and sell your car....or put it back to stock. I'm no expert but I'm not sure you are ready for any mods. LOL.

I don't blame u I ready to do that shit.. I should of never sell my fucking Evo ....

[dantes5823]

Originally Posted by Island mazda I don't blame u I ready to do that shit.. I should of never sell my fucking Evo ....

Posts full part list.

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by Island mazda Yes I do and I cp piston,front mount intercooler and 3" intake ...the car won't even go a hill I don't even self know how to scale it? I order a cobb it should be here 2marrow

so you installed a BT and a 3" intake with no AP?

stop driving car until you get AP

[Island mazda]

Originally Posted by ms3blackmica so you installed a BT and a 3" intake with no AP? stop driving car until you get AP

What's an ap?

[GODspeed7]

Originally Posted by Island mazda What's an ap?

@Raider; please kill it with fire!
Stop posting, stop driving your car, stop touching your car, and for the love of god please read the damn forum before you blow your car up!


Tapatalk LIKE A BOSS!

[Island mazda]

Originally Posted by GODspeed7 @Raider; please kill it with fire! Stop posting, stop driving your car, stop touching your car, and for the love of god please read the damn forum before you blow your car up! Tapatalk LIKE A BOSS!

What a great help.... I thought this site was to help ppl not to dis anyone but its all good just because am from the virgin island

[GODspeed7]

Originally Posted by Island mazda What a great help.... I thought this site was to help ppl not to dis anyone but its all good just because am from the virgin island

Ok I'll be nice. AP is cobb accessport. BT is big turbo. These are called acronyms. They are letters that represent a word. Also known as an abbreviation. There is a whole thread donated to these acronyms. But you need to read the welcome email as well as all the other threads you can. Ok?


Tapatalk LIKE A BOSS!

[Raider]

Originally Posted by Island mazda What's an ap?

I am going to groan you. I" do not care who you are, where you are from. You were sent a welcome PM with important links. We have a knowledgebase, with a "start here". That was answered in there.

Please go to the KB and read up.

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by Island mazda What a great help.... I thought this site was to help ppl not to dis anyone but its all good just because am from the virgin island

you need to help yourself first

[T_Bishop]

This is a great tutorial but I'm a real noob when it comes to tuning. I really want to get my maf calibration done but I just know I will screw it up. If I send you my logs could you fix them up for me? I would be willing to paypal you some money for your time.

[magicka]

MAF cal is easy, but if you're concerned, go here for help.

[Tommy]

Thanks!

[BJSpeed3]

Hello,
I recently received my Cobb AP, and decided to download the SURE stage 1 OTS map off of the cobb website. I am currently only running a SURE Aeros V2, and SideWinder TIH. After watching your very well done videos, I have been attempting to achieve a MAF calibration with some confusion. Once I completed the log just as you do in your video and look at my data, I am seeing something quite different under my LTFT column. My LTFT are showing 7.03 throughout the duration of the log until hitting 80 g/s when the LTFT turns to 0. Any idea what I am doing wrong? I only have about 80 miles on this map, is that enough for a log? Thank you so much for any assistance you may be able to offer.

Thanks again,

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by BJSpeed3 Hello, I recently received my Cobb AP, and decided to download the SURE stage 1 OTS map off of the cobb website. I am currently only running a SURE Aeros V2, and SideWinder TIH. After watching your very well done videos, I have been attempting to achieve a MAF calibration with some confusion. Once I completed the log just as you do in your video and look at my data, I am seeing something quite different under my LTFT column. My LTFT are showing 7.03 throughout the duration of the log until hitting 80 g/s when the LTFT turns to 0. Any idea what I am doing wrong? I only have about 80 miles on this map, is that enough for a log? Thank you so much for any assistance you may be able to offer. Thanks again,

Take another MAF Cal log with STFT added for more data to analyze.

[BJSpeed3]

Hello,
Thanks again for your help, I really appreciate it. Here is another log I just took including a few more types of data. If anything else is needed I will gladly do another log today.

[udntknw]

I may be wrong, it's kind of hard to read that on my phone. But it appears you are hitting your breakpoints and the ltfts are changing as they should.

just tap it in

[Linus2600]

Hey guys. I just received my AP, so I'm trying to learn a bit here. I have a 2012 MS3 and just installed my GFB BoV and CS Stage II SRI and I want to flash the OTS Stage1+CS+TIH 93 tune and start putting on the miles for the mafcal. I have already adjusted the breakpoints as OP suggested and before I get started had a few questions...

1. Even though I selected an OTS tune designed for my intake i assume I will still need to scale the MAF curve, is this correct?

2. If it is correct I am using the formula provided and coming up with

(x^2)/(s^2) where s^2 is equal to the stock MAF Diameter Squared
s^2 = 66.5^2 = 4422.25

Corksport SRI = x
x = 67.82
x^2 = 4599.55
so...

4599.55 / 4422.25 = 1.04

and then ill multiply all the cells in the MAF table using the 1.04?

Does that seem right?

3. Do I do that adjustment prior to getting some miles on the ECU?

4. I'm holding AFR's between 11.4 and 11.6 with the BoV Venting 100% is it
recommended to stop that now? I have heard both positive and negative things about this.

Thanks in advance, I'd rather get it right the first time and thank you OP for the great videos and guides it is really appreciated

[Jeremy3eb]

Hey, I used this tutorial awhile ago but just wanted to stop in and say thanks for your work putting this together!

[aldekei]

Originally Posted by Linus2600 1. Even though I selected an OTS tune designed for my intake

If you have an OTS for that intake, the you don't need to scale. That will cause all sorts of issues.

Perform the MAF cal as documented and be happy. You will never get it perfect, so don't stress over the last 2% or so.

As far as running 100% vta... I wouldn't, unless you pick up a Guardian Angel. You are going to run rich at shift and likely leak under vacuum. This will eventually lead to carbon build up around the O2 sensor and a $300+ part to replace.

tapawhat

[Linus2600]

Thanks for the input, just flashed it so now its time to start getting some miles on the car. I guess ill set the BoV back to 50/50 or rull recirc. The GA looks cool but internals are next so that little luxary will have to wait. I appreciate the input man, logs to come.

[dot584]

Originally Posted by Linus2600 Thanks for the input, just flashed it so now its time to start getting some miles on the car. I guess ill set the BoV back to 50/50 or rull recirc. The GA looks cool but internals are next so that little luxary will have to wait. I appreciate the input man, logs to come.

Just go full recirc, you will still be able to hear the psssh if you have an intake and without any tuning problems. Win win.

Sent from my Incredible 2 using Tapatalk 2

[Linus2600]

Ok so did my first MAF Cal and must have fucked up the math somewhere, 30 miles later i threw a p0300(random misfire) and reverted bak to the OTS map with my ltft from +10/-8.
Logged about 80 miles yesterday, redid the calibration and after first attempt im at -2.3/+1.8 consistanly...Gonna drive another 75 miles or so and re log.

One more question, if my ltft is sitting at 0.0 on my AP when im on the throttle (about 30 miles in) thats good right? Im assuming that means my ecu does not feel that it has to do any adjustments, is that correct?

Thank you again for the time

[aldekei]

That really depends on what you mean by "on the throttle". If WOT, then you will always see 0, this is where the second half of calibration comes in.

As to the code: That can be caused by a number of things. Did you feel a stutter or loss of power? Did the code come on under partial throttle while cruising?

As I recall, that code can be triggered by an imbalanced clutch as well, so it is really tough to troubleshoot. Google it, and try to run down what others have found. Worst case, stock out and take the car into a dealership.

tapawhat