Initial Map setup (Assistance Needed)

[mmanda2290]

Ok here is my first map that I've created and two WOT logs.

There are some good things going on. LTFTs are right on, AFR is close to what i commanded (11.4)not sure if these figures are ok. No knock. My fuel pressure is +1600psi.

But then there's the part that's over my level of knowledge.

I did not log APP for these logs but the pedal was all the way 100%. While my TP never went higher than 51% (I've read 75% is fully open). Also boost is down to a dismal 9 psi. I do not believe I have a boost leak on the grounds that when I was running the stock boost targets I was hitting the target for a max TP of 51% ( I just never realized my TP was so low). What should I do to correct these problems?

My only mods are a corksport sri + tip and a rmm. These logs were done in fourth gear and I only went to 5k rpm because I was baffled by the 9 psi.Any feedback would be much appreciated for these issues or anything else that you see I messed up. Thank you.

[rfinkle2]

Who altered your drive by wire (DBW tables)?

There are a number of things I see in the map that need to be addressed.

[mmanda2290]

The only things I made adjustments to were everything that was covered in abilors guide. I uploaded the factory settings that I saved onto my AP and just made tweaks to that. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to start messing with tables I don't know about but I don't want only 9 psi either lol. Also one more question once I have my ltfts set and saved to this map like I do and I know they're accurate, do I need to wait to go wot whenever I reflash the map/ disconnect the battery for my ltfts to settle in?

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by mmanda2290 The only things I made adjustments to were everything that was covered in abilors guide. I uploaded the factory settings that I saved onto my AP and just made tweaks to that. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to start messing with tables I don't know about but I don't want only 9 psi either lol. Also one more question once I have my ltfts set and saved to this map like I do and I know they're accurate, do I need to wait to go wot whenever I reflash the map/ disconnect the battery for my ltfts to settle in?

There have been many changes since Abilor wrote his guide.

I don't know that your DBW table B is that way OTS... (don't know how it got that way if you did not change it).

You don't need to wait to go wot if you are sure your maf curve is correct.

YOU DO WANT THE CAR TO BE up to OPERATING TEMP BEFORE LOGGING.

Each time you flash the car, you essentially do the same thing as reset the battery.

If you are not hell bent on tuning your own car, @Lex; may have an opening for you and is someone I highly recommend.

[DSIT995]

Rfinkle2 is right on the money.. If I make a lot of changes at once on my map, I will often go back and compare it the the OTS map I started with and the last few revisions... I would suggest you do the same.

You were only hitting a top load of 1.4. With the DBW tables in your map you are only commanding 40-50% in the 1.44 lines of those tables. These tables are very important and they seem a bit off..

This is from the ATR Help file for DBW A-C:

DBW Throttle A-C Table Description – These tables define the throttle duty cycles indicated under three separate conditions as a function of calculated engine load, and thus requested torque. The table is referenced by the Engine RPM on the x-axis and by the calculated engine load on the y-axis. Table values are the relative throttle duty cycle the torque targeting system system will drive the electronic throttle body in an attempt to target the associated torque. Higher values mean more duty cycle, lower values mean less duty cycle. Tuning Tips – The factory ECU settings use these table values to control the torque produced by the MZR engine. These tables most directly effect how the throttle system works during part throttle and WOT conditions. The requested torque values on the y-axis indicate how much or little duty cycle to drive the electronic throttle body with. A value of 80% throttle duty cycle represents the maximum amount the electronic throttle body can be driven. The OTS map settings are very effective and we suggest you start there.

A couple other issues I see are the TRL A-C and Calc Max ( you have the alternative throttle targeting enabled so these tables should be lower than a Boost based tune since your car will try and hit these loads)
Great thread here for Hybrid Tuning

What was the starting OTS map you based your tune off of? Your AFR's look OK still need a bit of fine tuning up top but not bad for your 1st map.. I would do a bit more research in the ATR Help file (Ive prolly read it 20 times and I still learn new info everytime I do!)

[mmanda2290]

I really appreciate the input. I'm not hell bent on doing it myself but I do think it is fun and also it's free. I'm not looking for perfection just safe yet fun tune that will also help out my mpg while cruising. Honestly I didn't even think to look in the atr help file. I was just researching on the forum but its hard to research a tune because obviously everybody's is unique and there's no telling what I messed up unless someone takes a look. I noticed the load peaking at 1.44 also I thought that was odd but you just answered that for me. I will look into everything you've pointed out and keep tweaking. I've noticed patience is key with this stuff. I appreciate the feedback.

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by mmanda2290 I really appreciate the input. I'm not hell bent on doing it myself but I do think it is fun and also it's free. I'm not looking for perfection just safe yet fun tune that will also help out my mpg while cruising. Honestly I didn't even think to look in the atr help file. I was just researching on the forum but its hard to research a tune because obviously everybody's is unique and there's no telling what I messed up unless someone takes a look. I noticed the load peaking at 1.44 also I thought that was odd but you just answered that for me. I will look into everything you've pointed out and keep tweaking. I've noticed patience is key with this stuff. I appreciate the feedback.

Some important notes:

- Make small changes @ a time
- use the graphical representation of the tables (below the tables) to be sure there isn't anything that sticks out to you visually.
- start with fuel, move to boost and finally timing (after fuel and boost are dialed in)
-watch the sign of the numbers when making adjustments (+/ - etc.)


If the car is running fine as evidenced in the logs, start @3k rpm and stop log @ 4000
Next log, start @3k rpm and end @ 5,000.. continue.

[ms3blackmica]

Definitely work slow.

I cannot stress this enough. I've seen so many cases & threads where members jump right into things and come back totally confused and don't know why things are happening the way they are.

If you are ever unsure about how the car is going to react @ WOT, then taking logs in couple 1000 RPM increments is certainly the ideal method as @rfinkle2; described. At least in this case you aren't putting anything in potential danger for a full log period.

My method is to "start low and slow" as I call it..and work upward.

First map on any car is low WGDC, very basic ignition advance, and a rich fuel target. I like to start rich because i've helped out people in the past with maps who didn't have their TIP on all the way causing them to run leaner than commanded. At least in the case of setting an initial rich AFR, it shouldn't lean out too much while they are taking a 4th gear log and I am able to safely catch the leak.

Sure, the car will be pretty slow but I'll take that any day over mechanical failure due to overboost/leaning out/who knows

[mmanda2290]

Yea I've been taking it really slow. I've been working on it/ playing with it for a week now and I think I'm pretty close to where I want to be. I think I'm to the point were I'm nitpicking trying to experiment and learn more but I feel like I have a safe map that has made my car a lot more fun to drive. Some of my biggest lessons learned so far are make small changes at a time no matter how insignificant you think it might be. For example I tweaked about 5 or 6 values at once in the beginning went out and got fuel cut at 1500 rpm in first. After process of elimination I figured out it was because I changed the boost rpm comp a + b from 0 to 1. Also I figured out using google was a lot more effective to search the forum it also makes you realize how many repititive posts there are and why people get upset. But I think that's inevitable people have questions they freak out and immediately post. But I'm loving all the knowledge on display in this forum. I feel like my donation wasn't enough. Thank all you guys.