TCE Wilwood Kits for 3

[maisonvi]

Originally Posted by Todd@TCE The base set of pads on all Wilwood and TCE kits is their BP10s. Nothing overly exciting or special. I'd rate them a good copy of Hawk HPS. For track day use I'd start out with their Poly B compound. Not the highest Cf available but easy on rotors (on track, not on the street) and reasonable costs. I've found it also well balanced for most street enthusiast track needs when running an all around tire. On the other hand if you show up with dedicated race rubber and wheels you'd do better on the H compound as the tire can exploit that grip. (but then maybe you'd do better on a 14" FNSL6 kit too....) People need to be honest and realistic about their "track day" and expectations for a lot of parts. In the brake world you can over brake a modest tire with too much pad and make modulation more difficult. Or start out (for the newbie) with too much and learn to over slow a car not helping them become better pilots either.

I do have a set of dedicated track tires with Kuhmo XS on them now, but thinking I will make the jump to R comps next time I need new tires. I cant go up to the 14" because they are 17" rims I run. My car is a "daily driver" but I do push it hard at the track.

With full interior and 400hp (running less currently at the track until I learn to handle more power better) the stock brakes arent cutting it. I put myself somewhere in btween the guy who takes his car to track days, and a guy who has a dedicated track car. Dont know if that helps with pad recommends or not..

Also, with this new design, how difficult will pads be to change? Looks like the spring clip isnt there to just take the pads out the top.

[Todd@TCE]

Here ya go.

[Todd@TCE]

The B pads are a proven pad for the more entry level needs is all. The H pad can over power the tire on some applications, but if you feel the tires are up to the task pass go and move to H compound.

Good eye, you are correct; the pad clip is on the opposite side and will now require the caliper be unbolted from the bracket to load and unload pads. While that probably would not have been my first choice it's not a big deal for street enthusiasts. For track day guys it means a bit more work.

As a compromise there's the TCE 13" kit with the FNSL6 which "could" be altered to run 14s some day in the future. But the cost is higher. In part due to the caliper cost, the bracket cost (a lot more) and the competing with your own supplier line which never quite works out in my favor...

[maisonvi]

Originally Posted by Todd@TCE The B pads are a proven pad for the more entry level needs is all. The H pad can over power the tire on some applications, but if you feel the tires are up to the task pass go and move to H compound. Good eye, you are correct; the pad clip is on the opposite side and will now require the caliper be unbolted from the bracket to load and unload pads. While that probably would not have been my first choice it's not a big deal for street enthusiasts. For track day guys it means a bit more work. As a compromise there's the TCE 13" kit with the FNSL6 which "could" be altered to run 14s some day in the future. But the cost is higher. In part due to the caliper cost, the bracket cost (a lot more) and the competing with your own supplier line which never quite works out in my favor...

I think the 13" kit will suffice for 20 min sessions. Sucks about the removing the caliper to swap pads though. That was a selling point for me on them. Would the screwed in pin on the fnsl6 be easier to remove?

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[Todd@TCE]

Yes the removable bridge bolt is the better choice for pad changes. But the lack of it effects body stiffness also. It's a love/hate thing. The FNSL6 also has 17mm thick pads with more total cubic inches than the DP's 12mm pads.

There are some clip only DP6 calipers still in stock at Wilwood if you prefer to go that way.

[maisonvi]

Originally Posted by Todd@TCE Yes the removable bridge bolt is the better choice for pad changes. But the lack of it effects body stiffness also. It's a love/hate thing. The FNSL6 also has 17mm thick pads with more total cubic inches than the DP's 12mm pads. There are some clip only DP6 calipers still in stock at Wilwood if you prefer to go that way.

I will PM you to talk prices about the different kits with these changes.

[Todd@TCE]

Spread the word: got a cool old F100 project you or a friend is working on? A common swap for these old trucks is late model Crown Vic front sub frames, suspension and engines. (as seen on Gas Monkey and others) While such things are very cool there were limited brake options. We've addressed that and now offer both 14 and 15" front kits for you restomod truck!

Street, strip, track, custom: see what TCE can build for you.

[Todd@TCE]

Who's up for red over silver?

[pdc001]

Interested in your front and rear kits @Todd@TCE

[Todd@TCE]

Originally Posted by pdc001 Interested in your front and rear kits @Todd@TCE

There are a variety of front kits but only one rear kit at this time- the larger 2pc hat/rotor set up designed to use the oe rear caliper. Due to the parking brake requirement. Be happy to fix you up with whatever's best for you. Feel free to PM or email me your interests.

[Todd@TCE]

The new DP6 models shown above are now making their way into regular production of both TCE and Wilwood factory kits!

These should also be available in the same assorted powder coat colors as the former model. And as of late we can no offer you Thermlock piston technology for your more demanding track day needs. These insulated pistons provide greater thermal rejection then the standard ss parts. Done so by way of an air gap, stainless steel cap and a phenolic shim they keep heat at bay~! Normally I'd not be keen on using the DP6 for track day use but the new model with the body bridge and some other changes has great increased the body stiffness for such use and should not be over looked.


Questions, comments, concerns; fee free to inquire.

[Todd@TCE]

The newer version of the DP6 is now shipping in all Factory Wilwood kits.

The revised caliper is similar to the former model but is no longer 'top loading' and thus requires the caliper to be removed from the bracket to service the pads. However the added bridging is designed to stiffen up the caliper body reducing flex and distortion.

[Todd@TCE]

Asked about that great deal on the Wilwood factory front kit the other day: yes that is correct. You can do a front kit combined with all four ss braided hoses for as little as $1089. To the door.

[Todd@TCE]

Asked about the caliper change on the DP6....yes folks the good and bad news is that they are now 'not' top loading calipers. To service the DP6 you will need to remove it from the mounting bracket and then release the pad retainer clips.

The only top loading options now are our TCE/Wilwood FNSL6 13 and 14" kits with conventional bridge bolt retainers.

[Yatta]

Bump, order placed, results will follow.

[Yatta]

so for those that have done these, the hat to rotor ring bolts are drilled for safety wire, options on this? the directions state to use loc-tite 271/red and torque.. just curious if this is an either/or kind of thing. Or, put another way, if you use heat to remove loc-tite (500 F) and the brake pads peak performance heat is at 725 F, what could possibly go wrong? will wire alone be all-right?

[Todd@TCE]

Wire them if you have the tools to do so. If not 271 is common. The only negative side of loctite is the removal later if you service the 'ring' as they may be hard to remove without breakage or pulling threads. For that reason wire is preferred.

Rear rotor kit on the way shortly. Our rear rotors go out with others for zinc coating.

[Yatta]

Originally Posted by Todd@TCE Wire them if you have the tools to do so. If not 271 is common. The only negative side of loctite is the removal later if you service the 'ring' as they may be hard to remove without breakage or pulling threads. For that reason wire is preferred. Rear rotor kit on the way shortly. Our rear rotors go out with others for zinc coating.

Thanks, going to do this all at once but getting the pieces parts ready, looks great.

[Yatta]

Just got back in country and the rears were waiting; they look great and the wilwood fluid was a pleasant surprise, is two bottles enough? Are the stock Mazda pads sufficient or is there a better suited material for these rotors?

I will take lots of pictures and post when I get this together but it looks great sitting in my office

After re-reading the bit about the rotor ring to hat I understand that is likely impossible to safety wire.

But it isn't respectable. It's mildly terrifying. And that actually makes it quite appealing. - Mazda 3 MPS review, Matthew Jones, Top Gear.

[Todd@TCE]

Countersunk button heads required for clearance. Would be quite the challenge...!

[Yatta]

Fronts are on, after 2 false starts and 2 trips to the parts, store... Definitely need to say a 12 pt 8mm socket is required if you plan on torquing the ring bolts to spec... I had 6 8mm sockets this morning, I have now.... Oreily stocks them. And the damned hard line nuts, both seized, neither would budge with a line wrench and liquid wrench, a torch and vise grips got them but neither look pretty any more..

[Todd@TCE]

That would be a 12pt but it's all imperial....nothing metric about it.

A line wrench is imperative. It would be metric. Generally...a pita

[Tokay444]

5/16" may as well be 8mm...

[Yatta]

Originally Posted by Tokay444 5/16" may as well be 8mm...

What he said


But it isn't respectable. It's mildly terrifying. And that actually makes it quite appealing. - Mazda 3 MPS review, Matthew Jones, Top Gear.

[RusianKid]

I made a quick 3D model for a tool to verify brake fitment on my RPF1s...

Now I just need to get to a 3D printer!!!

[RusianKid]

The print has begun!!!



I should have a completed picture tomorrow.


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[speedtoz]

Nice looking kits. Wish you had speed6 kits. Haha
Enjoy the color combo's though.

[Todd@TCE]

Originally Posted by speedtoz Nice looking kits. Wish you had speed6 kits. Haha Enjoy the color combo's though.

Easy. Did 6 kits yeeearss ago. Revived them with today's more common radial mount 13 and 14" flavors.


MAZDA6/SPEED6

[RusianKid]

Now time to test fit!!!

[RusianKid]

So I test fitted my 3D printed part and this is what I discovered.

Keep in mind this is for 17X9 RPF1 +45 offset(5mm spacer so +40 offset)

-it will be tight
-I will most likely up my spacer to a 10mm(+35 offset) in order to clear the ID (4.55 dimension) of the caliper.
-the outer diameter(7.30 dimension) is super tight. I was only able to fit a .010" gap gauge in there.

I will be asking our QA guy to measure the wheel next in order to become fully comfortable with the fitment.

Nevertheless I think this is the big brake kit solution for the 17" RPF1 +45(w/10mm spacer so +35 offset)

Here are the pictures from my trial run.











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[Yatta]

Originally Posted by RusianKid So I test fitted my 3D printed part and this is what I discovered. Keep in mind this is for 17X9 RPF1 +45 offset(5mm spacer so +40 offset) -it will be tight -I will most likely up my spacer to a 10mm(+35 offset) in order to clear the ID (4.55 dimension) of the caliper. -the outer diameter(7.30 dimension) is super tight. I was only able to fit a .010mm gap gauge in there. I will be asking our QA guy to measure the wheel next in order to become duly comfortable with the figment. Nevertheless I think this is the big brake kit solution for the 17" RPF1 +45(w/10mm spacer so +35 offset) Here are the pictures from my trial run. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

no inside wheel weights for you... no gravel roads and no wheel deformation I was concerned about how close the caliper is the stock GenPu inside edge of the spokes but you have me beat by a good margin.

[Code Monkey]

Rpf1's in 17x9" are known for having shitty BBK clearance, no surprise here.

[RusianKid]

Originally Posted by Code Monkey Rpf1's in 17x9" are known for having shitty BBK clearance, no surprise here.

Fully agree.

However it will be a surprise when this kit does fit!


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[RusianKid]

@Todd@TCE;

On the wheel clearance diagram it has a note:
a minimum of .080" clearance must be maintained between the wheel and caliper in all areas.

Do those dimension already have the .080" added to them? Or am I supposed to add .080 on top of 4.55 and 7.30?

This answer will make or break!




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[Tokay444]

That's .254mm or .010"...

[RusianKid]

Originally Posted by Tokay444 That .254mm or .010"...

BOTH!

Those distances are exactly the same in different unit of measures.




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[Tokay444]

Yes. But it isn't .01mm like you posted.

That would be .0004"

[RusianKid]

Originally Posted by Tokay444 Yes. But it isn't .01mm like you posted. That would be .0004"

Thank you!!!

Original post corrected


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[Todd@TCE]

Been in and out of town on work and racing related activities...


The diagrams reference the air gap (of roughly .120" normally) to the dotted line.


The "actual" caliper clearance required (to the body, not the dotted line) would be .898" or 22.8mm.


This is calculated by the use of:

Hat offset- .472
Hat face- .270
Caliper overhang- 1.64

Plug that info into the CALIPER CLEARANCE CALCULATOR


*Please keep in mind the data for this is pulled from their parts. But I'll openly tell you that info and the real world part can vary some. Right now that "hard" number vs the dotted line is .140" which I feel is a bit optimistic.

[Todd@TCE]

Please note: Effective immediately TCE will no longer be offering BLUE, YELLOW and SILVER powder coat finish on Wilwood Disc Brakes calipers without an additional fee.

We regret this decision on their behalf as we have found many customers to favor these colors setting their purchase apart from the sea of brake kit options. Future color applications will be considered "custom" and carry a fee up up to $300 per kit (2 calipers) for these colors. We feel this is a ridiculous premium to pay for an alternative color. It's now Black or Red for most buyers.

Because of that we have removed the color palette from the TCE home page and will not be offering this without a consumer request. Sorry folks; it was a nice touch that's gone away. Don't blame me...