TCE: Brake Pads

[Todd@TCE]

TCE stocks up to 8 different pad compounds for over 15 different Wilwood Calipers.

From the most common 7420 found in the FSL and BSL6 calipers to the new 6617 Aero4 and Aero6 models and every 7112 Dynalite in between!

Go to the BRAKE PADS page and you'll find the data is clearly listed by compound. Each compound has specific pros and cons. And unlike most brake pads you won't find some long bs description of how they function- you'll find the Coefficient of Friction table that shows you the projected pads performance over a broad temperature range.

Charts like:


And:


Click the pad part number to view the pad shape. 6712


Or: 7420



Don't see what you want? Wilwood has more compounds than shown on the TCE page. I've chosen to limit the pad page to the best choices for most uses from both personal use and customer input. There are at least 3-5 more pads today that could be listed. But...the track pad options get a bit crowded with similar and overlapping features. The pads stocked represent the most commonly sold and dependable pad options for nearly all uses. Of course TCE will gladly supply you another chosen compound if you wish.

And all priced include FREE USPS flat rate shipping.

[Todd@TCE]

Cut from another forum for informational purposes.


Quote Originally Posted by rainier446 View Post
So I upgraded my front calipers to the 4 piston FDL calipers about 4 months ago and I have to say I love them so far. At the same time that I did this I also upgraded to Motul 600 brake fluid and stoptech rotors but I have a question regarding rotors. Do you have, or know of any replacement rotors that aren't full sized and would better fit the FDL brake pad surface? It looks odd having only 2/3 of the front rotor wearing with these calipers.



Your question is good and holds a common misconception as well.

The size of a pads is not indicative of its performance nor is the rotor you have too large. The size of the pad is relative to the requirement of the caliper body itself. Small calipers simply use smaller pads.

The location of the pad (and caliper) is designed to be "flush to the edge of the disc" meaning the pressure points of most aftermarket calipers are often at a higher radius than the stock pads. If you consider a 57mm diameter piston the center point would be about 28mm down from the edge of the disc. A four pot with 1.625 pistons puts the centerline of the caliper at only 20mm in from the edge. Thus the leverage is being generated at a higher point on the disc itself.

When we do this the clamping is improved. However the calipers are more prone to run out detection as well as running a bit hotter than if you have a more 'square' pad under a larger diameter single piston. The other negative is that is then appears that you are using less rotor- thus less braking. That is not true. In fact you have more braking force assuming the same effort on your leg and the same piston area. The pads wipe a smaller area of the disc tho and leave more area unswept. That means the looks of things get a bit funky. For the BBK market we just use a larger diameter hat in the rotor- problem solved. For one piece rotors your only way out is to paint the entire disc and let the pads settle in where they may.

It's also a misconception that a larger pad make more brake torque. Not true. Pressure is relative to clamp force and piston area- not pad surface area. The same force (say 700psi into the caliper piston is spread out over a larger or smaller area of pad is all. Smaller pads will wear out quicker as the demand on them is greater (more pressure per square inch of pad). OE pads are usually 'fatter' and more square for both reasons discussed here. They need to find a good balance between wear, torque, heat, and fit. The track caliper tends to favor function over longevity.

[Todd@TCE]

Looking for the "perfect" pads. You know: the one that you can drive to and from the track. Lasts all day at the tracks, doesn't dust much or wear out the rotors and is inexpensive?

Yeah, me too.

Pads are wear items. Brakes are essentially friction based of course and that means something has to give. We usually prefer the pad to wear first not the rotor. And when the proper pad is used; that's the case.

Use the wrong pad and you'll have poor braking, faster pad wear and maybe shot rotors!

Don't fall into the trap of "dual purpose" pads. There's really no such thing. Sure there are pads the will 'work' on the street and on the track. They just won't do either one very well. Expect to try a few compounds and evaluate what works best for your needs. Those needs vary also by the intended application: street, AX, open track use. All three can have varying demands and possibly benefit from totally different compounds.