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 Old 07-12-2011, 04:43 PM   #881
 
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Its not beneficial to do anything different than normal tuning practices. The most important and basic aspect of tuning timing is to pull timing at peak TQ and ramp it back in appropriately.
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 Old 07-12-2011, 09:07 PM   #882
 
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Originally Posted by jhershorin View Post
Its not beneficial to do anything different than normal tuning practices. The most important and basic aspect of tuning timing is to pull timing at peak TQ and ramp it back in appropriately.
Thanks for the clarification...

If you have the time I have uploaded a few more data logs that I worked on today. Any input would be greatly appreciated
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 Old 07-17-2011, 05:40 PM   #883
 
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Originally Posted by Mfinlay04 View Post
seems everyone else has jumped ship to Cobb.
I'm still here also. Looks like we started trying to tune our cars a little late in the game. Ive been getting a little help here and there also. Exchanged a couple emails with Sander at cp-e. Seems to be willing to help with some e-tuning. I haven't even gotten a chance to start playing with timing yet. Fell my AFR's are about in line but I disconnected by battery the other day and this time it took about 130 miles to get fuel trims to start showing up. But instead of getting any help from the forums I just got bashed by people who hate cp-e.

Good luck to both of us?
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 Old 07-17-2011, 10:29 PM   #884
 
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Originally Posted by Joellc2434 View Post
I'm still here also. Looks like we started trying to tune our cars a little late in the game. Ive been getting a little help here and there also. Exchanged a couple emails with Sander at cp-e. Seems to be willing to help with some e-tuning. I haven't even gotten a chance to start playing with timing yet. Fell my AFR's are about in line but I disconnected by battery the other day and this time it took about 130 miles to get fuel trims to start showing up. But instead of getting any help from the forums I just got bashed by people who hate cp-e.

Good luck to both of us?
Yeah, and honestly I've been quiet disappointed with the customer service of cp-e. you always hear great things however I've had many bad experiences just in the short time i have had my standback. Although they did replace my used standback for free so can;t complain there not too many companies offer true lifetime warranties... But phone calls get lost and NO ONE calls you back, and emails go days without a response. I mean if the guys are going to be outta the office, NP but set up a "out of the office" auto email just so I'm not waiting for days for a response. Simple things like that seem to piss me off.

Anyways, I have been tuning a lot by myself and think I've got the concept down for the most post. Want to get it tweaked and then send it over to Sander for any addition advice comments etc...
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 Old 07-22-2011, 02:22 PM   #885
 
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Has anyone used the ProFuel controller? I'm going to be using it with a DO stage one and was wondering what the meth chart should look like. My peak boost is 17 psi and I was thinking to have it start at 50% at 5 psi and 100% by 13-14 psi.
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 Old 07-25-2011, 03:17 PM   #886
 
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Played with my settings some more in the standback to get the AFR all straightened out and did a pull the other night, Pretty happy so far just need to fine tweak all the numbers to get 11.3-11.5 AFR. Let me know what you guys think.

Ps. This is a 3rd to 4th gear pull
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 Old 07-25-2011, 03:42 PM   #887
 
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You guys are not alone, I am running the SB with a BT and built motor, with a custom intake manifold. I have the pro fuel controller, and I am using to control AEM w/m kit. Everything works flawless, and very easy to adjust flow requirements.
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 Old 08-05-2011, 02:08 AM   #888
 
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can someone tell me what does ecu side and harness side means on the instructions on the cpe standback hardwire.I KNOW THERE DIVIDED INTO HARNESS 1 AND 2,BUT WHY IS IT SPECIFIED HARNESS SIDE AND ECU,CAN SOMEONE PLEASE CLARIFY,AND ALSO IS THE MAP REQUIRED TO GET THE STANDBACK RUNNING? THIS FOR ME heres and example
1 GRAY BLACK / WHITE STRIPE HARNESS side 2AA
2 WHITE (Gray Jacket Cluster) N/A Attached to Map Switch N/A Attached to Map Switch
3 RED (Gray Jacket Cluster) N/A Attached to LED N/A Attached to LED
4 BLACK (Gray Jacket Cluster) N/A Attached to LED N/A Attached to LED
N/A GREEN (Ring Terminal) N/A Attach to chassis ground N/A Attach to chassis ground
5 WHITE / BLACK STRIPE WHITE / RED STRIPE HARNESS side of 1AK
6 WHITE / BROWN STRIPE WHITE / GREEN STRIPE HARNESS side of 2R
7 BROWN WHITE / PURPLE STRIPE cp-e™ Injector Box. (COMING SOON)
8 ORANGE WHITE / RED STRIPE ECU side of pin 2W
9 BLACK BLACK 1BG
10 RED GREEN / ORANGE 1BE
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 Old 08-05-2011, 05:33 AM   #889
 
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If I understand you correctly, harness side dictates the wire on the SB plug, and ECU side is the wire that is on the car.

There does not need to be a map a switch hooked up to make the car run. it will just run off the primary map. Nothing needs to be changed in the actual map to make the car run. Once all the wiring is done, the car should fire up and run.
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 Old 08-05-2011, 08:32 AM   #890
 
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But why would they have ecu and harness side but then again its labeling the actual ecu pins.I did the hardwaire on the car by soldering directly to the ecu wires.when I plug in the standback the car doesn't crank.when I unplug the standback the car starts.is this due to the map settings?when I plug into the pc the parimeters show everything on zero except the boost which is set to 15.6,if this is wrong where would I obtain the base map?
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 Old 08-05-2011, 08:38 AM   #891
 
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The map zeroed out is fine, the car will run with everything zereod out.

I am not sure why they label it like that.

So, with the bypass plug installed, the car starts and runs fine, but when the SB is plugged in the car will not even crank? If that is the case, then the SB has an issue.
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 Old 08-05-2011, 10:52 AM   #892
 
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Well when connecting the bypass the car works perfectly fine assuming the the grey wire hanging from the bypass has nothing to do with a hardwire.but would it work on the computer but not function a car?
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 Old 08-05-2011, 11:09 AM   #893
 
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possibly... it could function fine on the software side of things but could keep it from operating the car.... CP-E can test it for a small fee, if you bought it used. If you bought it new then deff. send it to them.
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 Old 08-05-2011, 05:15 PM   #894
 
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thanks im gonna look into it,by any chance can they repair it?
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 Old 08-05-2011, 07:50 PM   #895
 
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Yeah, I am sure they can either repair it or tell you what it needs.
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 Old 08-06-2011, 02:10 PM   #896
 
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thanks
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 Old 08-07-2011, 10:21 PM   #897
 
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Same issue with mine, bought it used off a N/A guy hardwired it in and didn't crank with the SB plugged in. Sent sales an email explained what happened after a few trials of things they had me send the unit in. Needless to say they sent me a new unit and all has worked great.

A little late on the wiring question,

ECU side is the wire connected to the ecu
harness side is the side coming outta the firewall or from the wiring harness from the motor

[ECU]------ECU Side---[standback]----harness side----- Motor and Sensors


Hope this helps
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 Old 08-09-2011, 06:20 PM   #898
 
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Same issue with mine, bought it used off a N/A guy hardwired it in and didn't crank with the SB plugged in. Sent sales an email explained what happened after a few trials of things they had me send the unit in. Needless to say they sent me a new unit and all has worked great.

A little late on the wiring question,

ECU side is the wire connected to the ecu
harness side is the side coming outta the firewall or from the wiring harness from the motor

[ECU]------ECU Side---[standback]----harness side----- Motor and Sensors

''when your saying the firewall i need to attach wires there????
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 Old 08-10-2011, 09:25 PM   #899
 
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Originally Posted by mike000g View Post
Same issue with mine, bought it used off a N/A guy hardwired it in and didn't crank with the SB plugged in. Sent sales an email explained what happened after a few trials of things they had me send the unit in. Needless to say they sent me a new unit and all has worked great.

A little late on the wiring question,

ECU side is the wire connected to the ecu
harness side is the side coming outta the firewall or from the wiring harness from the motor

[ECU]------ECU Side---[standback]----harness side----- Motor and Sensors

''when your saying the firewall i need to attach wires there????
Do you have a MS3 or MS6?
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 Old 08-11-2011, 08:53 AM   #900
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you need to ground the wire that comes off the toggle switch.

mine wouldn't start without grounding the switch wire.
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 Old 08-11-2011, 11:57 AM   #901
 
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mine car is a ms3.
@Rich-PMS what toggle switch if you are refferingto the map switch i am not running one
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 Old 08-11-2011, 12:36 PM   #902
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Originally Posted by mike000g View Post
mine car is a ms3.
@Rich-PMS what toggle switch if you are refferingto the map switch i am not running one
yes- the map switch.
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 Old 08-11-2011, 08:06 PM   #903
 
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Ok cool so I should look for that ground and see if it works,when I used the standback bypass I saw my dashhawk had cel saying malfunction crank postion sensor a.
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 Old 08-13-2011, 10:44 PM   #904
 
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Originally Posted by mike000g View Post
mine car is a ms3.
@Rich-PMS what toggle switch if you are refferingto the map switch i am not running one
disregard the firewall statement as that would be more for the MS6.
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 Old 08-14-2011, 09:10 PM   #905
 
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i might just skip all this and buy the pnp harness
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 Old 08-14-2011, 09:25 PM   #906
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Originally Posted by mike000g View Post
i might just skip all this and buy the pnp harness
I got my PNP harness with standback for 225 shipped from the classifieds here.

There'd s few people on here selling their standback and PNP harness, should shoot them a PM and see if they'll seperate. Or you can spend the $250 and get both. It'll still be cheaper than buying a new PNP harness from cpe
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 Old 09-03-2011, 11:28 AM   #907
 
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update on my standback,i sent it in to cpe,turns out there was an issue with sb.so they are replacing it with a new one.
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 Old 11-01-2011, 05:52 PM   #908
 
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Hey, I know no one has posted here for a while, but, I am looking for a bit of information. When I try to read the charts from my standback I am getting numbers that make no sense. Anyone else have this problem?
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 Old 11-02-2011, 12:07 AM   #909
 
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Get a clean map and resend the data. You never want maps to look odd. If they keep reading odd, despite sending clean data, may be a bad SB.
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 Old 11-10-2011, 05:16 PM   #910
 
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i just hooked up mine,and to me it seems foreign.im still new to this.if you need a base map i have for the ms3 1st gen.
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 Old 11-16-2011, 03:11 PM   #911
 
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I am new to this too. Does anyone have a map for a 6.

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 Old 11-16-2011, 06:47 PM   #912
 
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Honestly off the shelf maps are not the way to go. Start empty, calibrate MAF (Maf Transfer), Set AFR, Up boost, adjust timing, and eventually buy an AP when your mods get too much.
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 Old 11-16-2011, 08:00 PM   #913
 
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Matt is correct, do not use the OTS map on the SB, start with a zeroed map, and start working on it.

The SB is still capable making big power.....Ran out of waste gate spring pressure at about 26 psi (I was only using a 15 pound spring) Another 5 - 7 psi and 500 would have been right there...

450 hp
370 trq

EDIT: I dialed the AFR's on the street, and worked on the timing on a 1 hour dyno rental. There is a slight dip in the torque around the 5500 rpm mark, but that was from over looking the cells in that area, I need to bump the timing in that area by a degree or so to bring it back up...
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 Old 11-19-2011, 03:12 PM   #914
 
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Hey guys.

Ive had my MazdaSpeed 6 for almost a year now, and got a standback and a pnp harness. I read up on it a little, but it seemed like it was mostly for people with more/a lot of mods than the beginning modder.

After searching around, I see that CPE isnt really interested in customer service with it any more. Is that right or did I just read the wrong thread(s)? Seems from what Ive read there are more unsatisfied people with standbacks than satisfied ones.

Can you guys lmk in a nutshell, what the issues are/have been? Is it just issues for guys that are heavily modded or does it affect all users.

I only have a MazdaSpeed cai installed currently with a TIP ordered. I may do a few other small mods, but am unsure if I will be doing a TMIC or FMIC unless I can find a reasonably priced one that works well. I have picked up a set of Denso itv 22's, but havent installed them yet.


I am wondering if I should bother with trying to install/use it for my mild mods or if it would be of use to me at all. Or maybe if I can find a buyer, I should sell it and buy a Cobb? But I would prefer to use this if I could benefit it. Maybe use that money for other mods instead.
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 Old 11-19-2011, 06:01 PM   #915
 
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I think it is perfect for you at your mod level. Its will up your boost, dial in your AFR's and overall make it drive much better. In my experiance it is once you start pushing the mods to the max, then the SB's issues come out. Some have had good luck though with it even on a heavily modified car, I just didn't. If you get a SB for a great price then I say use it. If it costs you more than an AP, then just get an AP as it has more potential in the long run.
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 Old 11-19-2011, 08:34 PM   #916
 
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Originally Posted by MattJackson86 View Post
I think it is perfect for you at your mod level. Its will up your boost, dial in your AFR's and overall make it drive much better. In my experiance it is once you start pushing the mods to the max, then the SB's issues come out. Some have had good luck though with it even on a heavily modified car, I just didn't. If you get a SB for a great price then I say use it. If it costs you more than an AP, then just get an AP as it has more potential in the long run.
I already have it, so, I would have to find a buyer, which from what ive read, will be pretty hard, then put up more money to get a AP. I have the standback and pnp in hand, BUT, I guess it has an old version of software. I called them and they said they would flash or reprogram it to the latest software for $75. I was just wondering if I should put the $75 in if it was going to really work for me or not.


Could you be specific on what the mods to the max would be where the issues are or come about? Examples? That way, I can think/decide if I would ever make it to that point or even close.

Thanks for the info.
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 Old 11-19-2011, 08:52 PM   #917
 
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How is the ease of use of the standback? Is it complicated or simple? Wheres the best place to get that kind of info? That way, I can get an idea and see if I can get comfortable with it. Ive read the product description, but that doesnt really tell me what Im looking for.

I really dont know anything about using it or how it works. Do I use a laptop to program/access everything? Are there programed/maps for certain "tunes" like mpg? Performance? etc?
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 Old 11-20-2011, 08:59 AM   #918
 
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This thread is your best resource. Read it from start to end and you will have more than enough info on all the pros and cons. The SB is very simple to work with. It really has 2-3 tables that you care about and thats it. Hook it up to your laptop via USB, open the SB software, edit the tune, and write it to the SB. Just start off with a zereod out map and take it slow and steady until you understand what you are doing.

Read this thread (its not terribly long) and then get back to us. You will learn alot from the first 5 pages alone.
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 Old 06-08-2012, 04:00 PM   #919
 
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Alright so I'm having this issue lately and it's driving me crazy. I have tried changing everything I can think of without any success of killing this...

Here is a datalog in 3rd gear at 15psi



Here is a datalog in 3rd gear at 18psi



And here is a 4th gear pull at 18psi.



I keep getting this little blips in the log and what feel like harsh backfiring when driving. I've just installed new spark plugs properly gapped, did the spring stretch thinking it was spark blow out. Nothing is helping except lowering the boost. Only thing left that I can think of is maybe the clutch is giving out and with the increased boost > increased TQ it's causing it to slip and that is what I'm seeing... Anyone else ever have this?
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 Old 06-08-2012, 05:18 PM   #920
 
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I had similar issues and it was always spark plug related. ITV22 at .026 is about what I use. I end up changing them every 10k or so.
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