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HOW TO: TOP MOUNT TURBO SET UP!! PART 1: PREP WORK! First things first, and here's the prep work I did prior to the BT Install, in a nutshell: 1. Upgraded my injector seals w/ the help of Skates and thanks to Silver Demon for creating them http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...-delete-78250/ 2. Deleted my EGR at the same time as it's super easy while doing your injector seals 3. Balance Shaft Delete http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...-delete-22203/ 4. Upgraded all my fmic couplers, and replaced all my vac lines. 5. Custom Hot Pipe. Your sexy new turbo sits about 6" to the left of the stocker, and about 3" closer to the front of the car. 6. I also moved my battery back, but this may not be necessary. 1&2) I Upgraded my injector Seals w/ the CPE (Silver Demon) ones found here: CPE MZR 2.3 DISI SAFEseal. The stock ones are prone to leaking, which will show as false KR making tuning impossible, and they can also blow out and cause head damage. Here's a 'how to' Skates and I did when we did my seals. We also upgraded the stock Torx Bolts that hold in the crow's feet for nuts and studs. This is optional, but recommended as sometimes the Torx bolts strip, etc. The how to also includes the egr delete, and all the part #'s and links: http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...-delete-78250/ 3) For the BSD, we followed Dane's "How To" found here: http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...-delete-22203/. I went with the gpwerks BSD kit and baffled oil pan. Here's a link to their BSD kit https://www.gp-werks.com/categories/...26-Components/. They've been slammed and don't have their baffled oil pan listed yet, but they DO sell it for $60 you just have to call them. Here's a pic of it anyways: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...LENBOLTKIT.jpg 4) I Have the CPE fmic, and the couplers are skimpy as hell. I upgraded those and replaced all my vac line with fresh stuff for good measure. See post #147 here if you have a cpe fmic or are just bored out of your tits, lol: http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...18/index4.html 5) I lucked out with the CPE fmic kit, and it turned out that by replacing the cpe hot pipe with 2 18" long L-pipes and hump hose connectors required zero fabbing or cutting. I suggest mocking it up ahead of time like I did, so you're not scrambling for a pipe at install. Here's the mock up based on looking at Joel's pics: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...kedupclose.jpg 6) Meh, see post #150 here http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...18/index4.html. If you end up buying the battery tray I used, you'll also have to cut the gigantic battery tie down rods, as the huge new intake will be in the way: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...utTieDowns.jpg ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ PART 2: MINOR BT INSTALL PREP WORK This one is easy. The stock tmic scoop thingy attached to your hood has to go as it's in the way of your new giant intake, so just undo the 4 screws and remove it. You can do this at install, but it will just add time: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...tridofduct.jpg **IMPORTANT** There are two Exhaust Mani studs (3rd from passenger side) that will NOT fit w/ the SteedSpeed Top Mount Manifold. So they just need to be cut by about 1/4". Joel Hinkle did this set up, and here are pics of exactly where to cut them: http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/r...03_12_0193.jpg Now Joel cut his at install, but I bought two OEM ones from Mazda ($10) so I could cut them in advance, and save some time at install. Here's mine all cut ahead of time: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...ManiStuds2.jpg Finally, pre-clock your turbo. The hot side and compressor side both rotate around the CHRA (middle part) after you just loosen all the bolts slightly. The ones on the hot side are hex and the ones on the compressor are like 13 or 14mm. Based on Joel's pics esp this one of the mani: Going off of this pic of Joel's: http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/r...03_12_0211.jpg I clocked it like this: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...boClocked1.jpg http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...boClocked3.jpg http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...boClocked2.jpg It was almost perfect! ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- PART 3 PARTS LIST! 1. New Turbo, SteedSpeed Top Mount Mani, Tial EWG (MVS) I went with a Garret Turbo twin scroll 3076 w/ .78 hot side (from SU Mark StreetUnit.com - Premier MAZDASPEED Performance Specialists), the Steed Speed Twin Scroll Top Mount Mani Steed Speed - Mazdaspeed 3/6 top mount turbo manifold with singe 38mm EWG (I'd go 44mm as I get creep) , and a Tial 38mm MVS ewg from SU Mark as well. Here's a shot of my turbo, Steed Speed Top Mount Mani and Tial: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...579/Turbo7.jpg http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...79/SPMani2.jpg http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...79/SPMani4.jpg http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...springsall.jpg ^The new Tial MVS EWG's now come with ALL the springs for whatever psi you want to run for the same price! I also HIGHLY recommend going twin scroll if you go big. The twin scroll turbo and SS mani spool really quick. With a 16psi spring, I've gone wot at 3155 rpms and hit 16psi at 3407rpms. Log attached (untuned, and I creep to 21psi, which is why I suggest going 44mm or twin 38mm's (you need the mani to be twin ewg, but Steed Speed makes them). 2. NOW!!!! Dustin Sells a Kit that includes your new custom DP, Intake, Custom Oil Lines, & Screamer Pipe. PM him for more info: DP: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...9/CustomDP.jpg http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q.../CustomDP2.jpg Intake (Cone and reducer not included, but listed in parts list below): http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...akewFilter.jpg http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...kewfilter2.jpg From top to bottom, custom Oil Return Slide (to bottom of turbo), oil return, and Oil Feed (all other ATP parts needed listed below): http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...ustomLines.jpg You also need to be a good boy, and be sure to return your stock oil feed and return line to him after the install. You re-use one of the coolant lines from the K04, but that's described in PART 4: INSTALL below ;) Here's the complete parts list from ATP Turbo and a couple other Misc Things you NEED!!: -4 size Oil inlet fitting for GT28/30/35R with built-in restrictor : atpturbo.com -4 size Oil inlet fitting for GT28/30/35R with built-in restrictor x1 Oil Feed Line -4 - SS Braid 3 Ft., straight / 90 degree : atpturbo.com Oil Feed Line -4 - SS Braid 3 Ft., 1 end straight / 1 end 90 degree x1 Oil Return Gasket - GT Series : atpturbo.com Oil Return Gasket - GT Series x1 Custom Oil Return Line Built to Order #10 (-10) size steel braided : atpturbo.com Custom Oil Return Line Built to Order #10 (-10) size steel braided straight ends 16" long x1 14mm Banjo Fitting Set for coolant lines - 3/8" Barb : atpturbo.com 14mm Banjo Fitting Set for coolant lines - 3/8" Barb x1 T3 inlet gasket, divided : atpturbo.com T3 inlet gasket, divided x1 10mm (1.5 pitch) Stud : atpturbo.com 10mm 1.5 thread studs for turbo to manifold x4 10mm (1.5 pitch) Nut Locking Head : atpturbo.com 10mm locking nuts x4 Washer - Steel 20.32mm OD : atpturbo.com 10mm washer x4 EDIT: USE LOCKING WASHERS INSTEAD, THE NUTS CAN BACK OFF W THE WASHERS LISTED HERE*** FTG-QuickTap-CompHSG : atpturbo.com Boost source tap x1 Here's all the stuff listed above from ATP that showed up at my doorstep today. http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...9/ATPStuff.jpg ^From LEFT TO RIGHT here's what you're looking in each package: 1) Braided hose to connect DJ's custom oil return slide (on bottom of turbo) to the custom oil return line. 2) 14mm Coolant Return Banjo Fitting (connects to BACK of turbo facing firewall, and fitting faces DOWN. 3) Oil Feed Line and Brass Oil Feed Restrictor. Restrictor goes on TOP of turbo, an 90* bend attaches to that fitting. The straight end connects to the modified Oil Feed Line that attaches to block just below the Alternator. 4) Turbo Studs, Nuts, & Washers (you only need 4, but I bought 6 to be safe, lol). 5) Twin Scroll Gasket, goes between Turbo and Mani, and the Oil Return Gastket that goes between Turbo and Custom Oil Return Slide on BOTTOM of turbo. 6) ATP Quick Tap. You take your 45* compressor outlet coupler for an unrestricted boost source, and run this to an AIR port on your Tial EWG. This is all covered in the "HOW TO" post that follows, but I thought this may help. Here are the couplers/reducers I needed for the CPE FMIC kit *Note CPE pipes are 2.25" so you may need 2" to 2.5" or whatever size your pipes are: 2" to 2.25" Reducer for turbo outlet Silicone 45 degree Reducer 2" to 2.25" Hose 51mm > 57mm | eBay For the intake: Silicone Coupler Reducer 4" - 3.5" Hose 102mm 89mm Red | eBay You also need a 4" T-bolt Clamp for where the new intake attaches to the turbo compressor: http://www.siliconeintakes.com/produ...7a2de66b6e95d0 And a 3.5" T-Bolt Clamp for where the 4" to 3.5" reducer attaches to your new intake: http://www.siliconeintakes.com/produ...7a2de66b6e95d0 ^They also have really nice, thick ply couplers at a reasonable price. That's where I bought all my new couplers to replace the CPE fmic couplers. Amsoil Air Filter #EEAU3560 AMSOIL Ea Air Filters - Nanofiber Technology *when that page opens the drop down box defaults to the top filter. You want part #EEAU3560 from that pull down list. Random Parts Needed: Jegg's Hose Sealant (don't use Russel's Hose Sealant): JEGS Performance Products 28011 JEGS Thread Sealant 3" V-Band for DP. You don't need the flanges, as the hot side has one, and so does the custom DP. I sourced mine at a local speed shop last minute, but here's a link to what you one from Jegs anyways: Turbonetics 30242 Turbonetics V-Band Clamps and Accessories 3-4' of 5/16" Heater Hose. Use this high temp stuff if you never want problems: http://www.z1motorsports.com/product...oducts_id=3414 Two 5/16" Unions, and 4 small worm clamps. You can get these at any AutoZone/Napa, etc. for cheap. You also need TWO SS Socket Caps for the Oil Return Slide. The correct size is 8M x 1.25 x 16mm. I got them at a bolt specialty store I know in town. Had em' in stock. Here's a pic, you don't need the rules, ha: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...SlideBolts.jpg If you plan to recirc your BPV as I am, you will also need some 1 1/8" recirc hose. I thought I had hose that would work, but it didn't, so I ordered last minute from Pegasus: Pegasus - Blue Silicone Hose, Straight, 1 1/8 inch ID, 1 Meter Length ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ |
PART 4: HOW TO INSTALL!!! A couple thing to keep in mind. I was fully bolted with meth prior to install, EXCEPT I was still rocking the stock DP. When the DNP Mani went in last Nov, I had a CPE Catted DP ready to follow, but I stripped the 02 sensor, and the nearest one was in stock was in NY, lol. Since I live in Boston, that pretty much closed the out door garage for the season... FMW!! I Sold it and put it towards the Steed Speed Mani, got the turbo, and the custom DP/Intake/Oil Lines from DJ :). Enough fucking around, here we go: 1. Remember to pre-clock your turbo before install day. It may seem a bit confusing if it's your first time, but it's actually really easy, and here are some tips. The little brass restrictor for the oil feed line only fits in one of the four 'holes' on your big turbo. That is your OIL FEED (or oil in) and it has to be on the top of the turbo (i.e. facing directly up). You use the Jeg's thread sealant on BOTH ends of this restrictor. You can put thread sealant on the end that screws into the turbo ahead of time, which I did. Don't put sealant on the other end until install time when the oil feed line is run (near the end of install). Here's a pic of Joel putting thread sealant on and the restrictor I'm talking about (it's in your ATP grocery list above): http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/r...03_12_0214.jpg ^Just don't use the Russel Sealent... Joel found it leaked and told me to get the Jegs stuff, and mine doesn't leak with that (neither does his). 2. Don't forget to clock your turbo ahead of time and leave the bolts on both the hot + cold side snug, but not tight. You'll find you have to loosen the compressor (light gray) side more to get it to move. The hot side (dark gray) side moves a lot easier. Don't put it on lock down, as you'll probably have to make some minor tweaks (don't attach all the lines to it before you get it mounted and clocked right, as the oil + coolant fittings will just be in your way to loosen and tighten both the hot/cold side: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...EPPRECLOCK.jpg 3. Rather that fight for access to the oil feed line, we decided ahead of time to just remove the passenger wheel, serp belt, and alternator. We also planned on taking off the mani first, then pulling the stock DP out the top (heat shields and all), so we took my hood off. That's 4 easy 14mm bolts for the hood, 1 for the belt (take pics if you're not sure how it goes back on), 1 wheel, and 3 bolts for the alternator. http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...pbeltandDP.jpg 4. Remove your intake/tip, hot pipe, and ebcs (stocker bolts to K04). You can also see one of the stocker coolant lines by the hole where the stock ebcs mounts (thin brass hose running to black coolant hose). Make sure to use vice clamps to clamp the stock coolant lines tight so there's no mess when you disconnect it. Joel is a big fan of this, lol: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...andHotpipe.jpg 5. Remove your stock/DNP/Whatever mani (10-12 14mm bolts iirc): http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...tsfromHead.jpg 6. Unbolt Mani from DP: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...ManiFromDP.jpg 7. Remove Exhaust Manifold: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...aniRemoved.jpg ^You can see my stock 02 sensor still connected. It was stripped so I bought a new one. There are two wire harness plugs, so unplug those. Here's a shitty over-exposed pic of the wireharness plug to the O2 sensor... just follow the stock line up to the where it plugs in (if you had this problem). It's just below where the top part of the TIP used to be: 8. Wire Harness Plug for new 02 sensor (oem not wideband): http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...ng02sensor.jpg 8. Remove Rest of bolts holding stock DP on: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...sandBraces.jpg 9. Stock 02 sensor unplugged from wire harnesss: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...kinStockDP.jpg 10. Remove this brace holding the stock turbo on: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...10bDPbrace.jpg 11. Remove the top and bottom exhaust mani studs... the 3rd ones in from the passenger side using a star socket (forget size). http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...ithcutones.jpg 12. Put some antiseize on the two exhaust mani studs that you cut, and thread them all the way in by hand (See #3, ignore 1 & 2 for now, we'll get there in a bit): http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...tManiBolts.jpg 13. Use a couple large flat head screwdrivers to crack off the stock DP: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...tockDPfree.jpg 14. Remove this black brace to get the stock DP out (it goes back on later): http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...BlackBrace.jpg 15. There were a couple of stock DP brackets that were in the way of the screamer pipe. For whatever reason, I took vids. My as well remove these now: 16. With all that crap gone, you can snake the stock DP out the top, heat shields, 02 sensor, and all! http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...llattached.jpg 17. I forget wtf this was, but apparently it was in the way of something, and that bolt is easy to miss :/ LOL!!! http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...PbracesOUT.jpg 18. Once you have all the coolant lines going to the K04 pinched w/ vice grips, undo any remaining bolts, and get that fucker OUT!!! http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...2EnjoyView.jpg 1 in the above pic needs to come off the K04 (you're gonna reuse it on the BT)... it becomes the COOLANT IN line on the front of the turbo (i.e. facing the front of the car). 2 is the oil return that you return to DJ. He fabs the stock one the right length to mate with the 16" steel braided hose oil return line (4th one down in the ATP parts listed in OP). 19. Here's another pic of what will become the COOLANT FEED LINE on your new top mount turbo: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...dlinefront.jpg 20. Now let's get that alternator the hell out of the way! There's three long ass bolts, a crazy plastic wire harness plug cap, and a sheild. Here's the WSM pic, followed by a couple pics from the install: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...Alternator.jpg <--- Larger thumbnail from ALLDATA attached to bottom of this post! http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...atorperWSM.jpg Sheild gone: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...Alternator.jpg http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...torDJisNo1.jpg ^^We just figured it out from the WSM.... it wasn't that tricky, but the gray plastic thing holding some wires is a little tricky to get off. There are three tabs on three different sides that need to be depressed to get that thing off. 21. BUT.... the payoff is sweet because you have retarded easy access to the OIL FEED LINE!!! : http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...ilFeedLine.jpg Now unscrew that stock line, and put DJ's modded line in, nice and tight and DON'T FORGET TO PUT THE OEM CRUSH WASHERS BACK!!. NOW.... Remember that 3 feet of thinner braided steel line from ATP? One end is straight, and the other end has a 90* bend on it. Put some Jegs thread sealent on the STRAIGHT END, and screw that into DJ's modded oil line tight. 22. Okay, so NOW we're back to that 1,2,3 pic where I told you to ignore the 1 and 2. So, here it is again: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...tManiBolts.jpg Now 1 is DJ's modded stock oil line that you just put in, and 2 is the straight end of the 3' ATP line I just told you to put Jegs sealant on and screw in. 3 is redundant to earlier, but again, I'm just pointing out the CUT mani studs that replace the top and bottom ones so the Steed Speed Mani fits. 23. Now let's get the coolant lines ready. You need to extend the OEM lines about 18", but I added 2' just to be safe and cut off the excess. I used 5/16" fuel line as they were out of heater hose everywhere. You use a 5/16" Union (sell them at Advanced) and stick one end in the hose, put a small worm clamp on, add the 2' of excess hose to the other end of the union, and tighten that bitch down. MAKE SURE your coolant connections are extra tight, or you WILL get a leak. Like tight to the point where you're about to crush the union, because I over tighten shit, and these weren't dougefresh tight, and I had two minor leaks at first. The coolant line coming from the PTO is the COOLANT OUT for the new BT (on the BACK of the turbo... it connects to the 14mm Banjo Fitting Set For Coolant Lines from ATP (5th from the top of the ATP list). Make sure this fitting points down: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...58thsUnion.jpg ^To be crystal, add a 5/16" Union to that hose as depicted, and add 18-24" of 5/16" coolant hose to that union. Then, attach it to the 14mm Banjo Fitting set from ATP. 24. Here is some more of the plumming: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...nesplus2ft.jpg ^1 is the modified oil return line. It connects to the 16" SS braided oil line from ATP. It then connects to the custom (aluminum) OIL RETURN SLIDE that is on the BOTTOM of the turbo, facing directly down. Very important... Oil feed w/ restrictor goes on the top facing directly UP, and the oil return slide is attached to the bottom facing directly DOWN. 3 is the COOLANT IN which snakes around and connects to the FRONT of the new BT, and attaches to the line you took of the K04 I previously mentioned. 4 is the COOLANT RETURN LINE and it goes to the PTO. You also have to put another 5/16" Union and an extra couple feet of coolant line, which I previously mentioned. 25. Remove the stock breather from the valve cover (it unclips), and carefully cut the breather tube off: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...tTubeOffIt.jpg 26. Now, drill out the small breather filter so it fits onto the stock breather elbow bend, and later clip it back onto the valve cover: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...llFilterOn.jpg 27. Drill a hold slightly smaller than the size of the barb that sticks into the coupler on the ATP Quick Tap Fitting you bought from ATP. Make sure it's on the side facing the driver's side: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...TPQuickTap.jpg 28. Mount pre-clocked turbo with fitting attached. You can see the brass OIL RESTRICTOR fitting (from ATP) on the TOP, the coolant line from the K04 on the front (NOW YOUR COOLANT IN), washers awaiting nuts on the turbo, and the new custom DP from Dustin positioned: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...ckClocking.jpg 29. The back driver's side nut doesn't want to go on with the fittings mounted on the turbo (no access): http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...ardtogetto.jpg 30. We said Fuck it, and we took the compressor housing off the turbo, and tightened it with a wrench that way: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...fashionway.jpg 31. Compressor housing back on: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...ReturnLine.jpg 32. Finishing Up: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...inishingUp.jpg 33. Installed: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...QTap3toEWG.jpg ^1 is the COOLANT FEED line, 2 is the OIL FEED LINE (with the 90* bend... don't forget to put Jegs sealant on the threads before screwing in. This is the thinner line runs below the mani to the modified stock OIL FEED LINE that goes below the alternator. Also, don't forget to put your alternator back on, lol. We did that after running the oil feed. 3 is just the ATP quick tap w/ some high temp 5mm vac line that runs to one of the AIR ports on your Tial ewg. That's all for now... I know there's a couple parts missing from the OP.... the 5/8" unions and 4' of 5/8" coolant hose at least. I'll read thru this when I'm sober and add in any missing parts, and linkies. If you need gory details everything is covered in my Top Mount Twin Scroll Build here: http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...6-build-76618/ |
Finished Product: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...79/BTDONE5.jpg http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...79/BTDONE4.jpg http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...79/BTDONE1.jpg Here's a Walk Around Of Her Washed And All Done, and a light cruise. I meant to say we moved the brake boost line, but I called it a wire for some reason, lol. ALSO, on DJ's advice, I rotated the intake up a little bit so it isn't resting on the hot pipe. There's plenty of clearance. Here's a 65-100mph run, with me calling out 80,90, & 100mph. Windows up, car not yet tuned and rich up top: Here's a taste of the Scremer pipe VTA'd in 2nd gear with the windows down. Vid doesn't do it justice... over 10PSI this fucker will wake the dead, lol. I've already inadvertently scared the bejeebas out of several folks (couple on purposed, lol): Here's another one on the way to a later dyno @24psi (369awhp/357awtq): |
I think that took almost as long as the install itself!!!! LOL, Nah, but just FYI it took us about 10 hrs in total. It was 12 hours, but we stopped and Ben & his wife grilled up some MAD good BBQ and we had beers and chilled out for a couple hours. Mad props to Carlson, Ben, and the other fellas that stopped by to check shit out and started turning wrenches as well. We ran into some wrinkles here and there, but we pulled it off NP ;) Also, HUGE THANKS to DJ for making this possible, Joel Hinkle for leading me down this path, and all the help w/ his install pics (he and/or DJ may add some more idk). Props to Silver Demon for the seals, and he, Riggs, Skates, Joel, Tim and all you crazy mother fuckers that have helped me out a ton on this pretty brief 2 month or so journey to top mount sweetness. Now I need to get that venturi set up done and get her tuned before I blow up!! lol |
Couple of errors to fix: From post 1 "For the intake: Amsoil Air Filter EEAU3650 AMSOIL Ea Air Filters - Nanofiber Technology *when that page opens the drop down box defaults to the top filter. You want part #EAAU3560 from the pull down list." EEAU3560 is correct not 3650 Post 2 Starting with number 23 and continued in 24. Replace all instances of 5/8 with 5/16 for the coolant lines. I like that you routed your oil line in from the rear instead of the front like I did. I'll probably swap mine when I add the OCC check valve and EGT gauge before I hit the road for the summer. Other than that, it's a great write up man. I'll read thru it again when I'm not so tired at work and see if there is more to add. |
Wow AMAZING How To!!! Best I've ever seen very well done! |
stickied |
holy shit...well done sir, and congrats |
Doug's How to's are always incredibly detailed and well thought out. Whenever there is a question as to whether or not to attempt an install, Doug comes through with a how to that makes one confident enough to DIY! ... Thanks Doug...very much. |
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Complete Win. Thanks a million Doug! Amazing job. |
Yet another great write up from Doug. Thanks |
Awesome write up man! Dustin just finished my kit so this is perfect timing I'm glad you got yours first because my 'how-to' would have sucked compared to this |
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i shouldnt have read that |
Doug, only other advice i have is to post up some aftermath glam photos showing off the top mount beauty :D Shit always comes out looking ridiculously good. |
dj i hope we are friends bc i might be asking for some parts if i decide i want to save up some money to do this fvck |
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Hmmm....you might just might make a good CPA... |
Top mount is so nasty Lucky speed6 owners |
great writeup there Mr Fresh....I wish I could use it LOL |
When i get super garage.... i may have to bump nastiez with a speed3.... |
You're such a slut |
I'm next ! gonna start buying parts in 2 weeks questions is the FMIC holding you back? i have a corksport with 2.25 piping i think. thinking of selling and going custom 3076, glad you didnt go 3071? tial 44 will fix boost creep? thanks alot |
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I haz plasma cutter.....hahah |
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I plan on upgrading the CPE fmic down the road when I have the time and $ to a custom TR8 w/ 2.5" piping. Despite the fmic being a bit of a bottle neck, and the car not tuned yet, it is a night and day difference from my prior set up. Tial 44mm should fix the creep. You can also get that mani w/ dual ewg's as well :). I attached a log of a 3rd to 4th pull. I wasn't spraying H20 and there is a bit of kr, and I'm rich as hell. I have a 16 psi spring in there, and no ebcs. You can see I slowly creep to 21psi. For me, that's not a big deal, because I plan on running 23-24psi when I fix this last issue. Flowing some good air, and calc load is respectable for it being untuned and pig rich. Oh yeah, your dipstick will probably start popping out due to excessive crankcase pressure. That is bad. There are a couple ways to fix it. You can go w/ the crazy venturi set up I'm copying from Silver Demon (see posts #395 for a schematic and post #386 for a parts list from Jegs w/ linkies here: http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...8/index11.html), OR you can drill out the baffle in your valve cover like Skates did (simpler, easier, free!): http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...9/VC_holes.jpg Skates, can you please explain exactly what you did? Thanks ;) |
Once you up the boost it won't creep :). |
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MBC on my setup = instaboost so that will drop your spool time dramatically. It also caused BPV flutter anytime you do a partial throttle lift...didn't like it. if you are going to safely run 23 PSI [have the limit tables work] you need the MAP upgrade if you don't already have it. |
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Or @Lex needs to bring his overboost valve to market... |
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One of these days when i get time, i'll bolt it up to my spare block and do some more formal test fitments, and if there is a clearance issue, i'll figure out how to rework em. We'll cross that bridge when we get there. Doug, i probably missed it, but how high does your boost "creep" to? Rigor brought up an interesting concern with the coolant. He suggested that since the turbo is the new "high point" in the coolant system, a manual purge may be necessary. I don't have a good sense on coolant setups, but if anyone cares to chime in on it, feel free. I would think the water pump would simply push any air bubbles out, but possibly not. |
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do you have any logs to show the creep? |
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EDIT: 2nd creeping. It won't let me attach the 3rd n 4th cuz it's already posted in this thread, lol ^^^^^ |
lol thats not creep. my spring pressure fluctuates as much as a pound which is more then normal i would say. creep is when u start at like 18psi and your seeing 21-22 by redline. your log goes from 20.86 to 21.22 which is more then negligible. |
3rd and 4th pull is in post 27. w/e 38mm is too small for this set up. Not sure what the arguments against 44mm are? |
Yeah, dude, your not creeping, just holding with fluctuation. If you put in a 5psi spring, you'd see what the min boost the gate can hold.... my guess would be like 15-17 or so by RL. But i really really don't think your creeping. |
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