BOLT ONS!! Q & A

[kadeem.anderson]

hook me up on an AP, gotta get tuned

[EdgeAutosport.com]

pm'd

[maynard576]

Alright so... I installed the JBR 70 duro rear motor mount. It definately took care of that horrible motor on the firewall noise but is it normal to still hear what sounds like two smaller bumps. I'm guessing it's wheel hop. Instead of "BANG" it sounds more like "thunk, thunk" much much quieter but I just want to make sure that is normalish?

[thatsmrgimp2u]

You shouldnt really have to guess if its wheel hop... Id check that everything was tightened securely, maybe even throw some loctite on everything if you didnt before. Does it happen when you ease into WOT?

[EdgeAutosport.com]

Is it at shift points? When does the noise occur?

[meltdown100]

Love this forum, spending a lot of time in here. Searching around and there's not a whole lot of discussion on boring stuff like EGR deletes and OCC. My plan is to get the reliability mods taken care of first like the pump internals, etc, before trying to make additional power as I intend to do. My car is a DD and I would love to get it bolted up and tuned to something around 300, maybe 350 whp by this Fall.

So I gots a brownie question that should be safe to post in here.

Learning up on the DI engine it seems that getting the EGR delete done and a decent OCC installed is really important to reduce maintenance down the road with the whole intake system which apparently gets shitted up pretty good otherwise. These are inexpensive and aside from the CEL on the EGR delete pretty easy to deal with. Maybe the EGR would have to wait for the AP purchase.

Anyway, my question before I get these going: Are there any real downsides to doing either of these? I have yet to find any indication that EGR delete and OCC, when done right, carry any disadvantage or could potentially create a problem. Am I correct in thinking that anybody who plans on keeping the car for a long time should do these while the car is still new and before adding power?

Funny thing is, the RMM gets pushed a lot (rightfully so) but these, even if they don't do shit for performance, seem to be pretty important up front mods also. Thoughts?

[EdgeAutosport.com]

@meltdown100 you are correct those are two important mods to help keep the build up off the valves.

You will get a check engine light with the egr delete but thats about it and make sure and get a occ with a check valve

[2.3speed06]

JBR's stage two kit OCC and EGR replacement are the way to go!!

[EdgeAutosport.com]

Originally Posted by 2.3speed06 JBR's stage two kit OCC and EGR replacement are the way to go!!

thats what I ran

[THE REAPER]

So I will ask this, with the pure hope of not getting totally crucified given that my name is still brown on this site.

I read through your thread on how to build a 400whp MS3.

Everthing listed seems reasonable and expected. http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...al-way-111319/

My question is, in a ballpark range, what would be the expected numbers most likely generated if you did everthing listed, MINUS the big turbo? Obviously I know some of the mods have a direct correlation to running a BT, but with that aspect aside what are respectful numbers?

Goal wise, I would like to see a realiable 330-350whp Genpu without BT or nitrous.

what are your thoughts and hopefully its not you telling me I am crazy lol

[silvapain]

The most you'll see on the stock K04 is 320-330 WHp, and that's on E85. On pump gas with the normal bolt-ons you will be in the 300 WHp range.

This varies with altitude, general engine condition, fuel quality, etc.


Tapadatass

[THE REAPER]

I appreciate the reply. After I made that post I started looking even more, and a 350whp bolt on car seems more like wishful thinking. I have noticed though that it seems like the genones respond better to bolt-ons, but I might just be imagining things lol

[silvapain]

If you want safe, reliable 350 WHp I'd recommend a BNR S3.


Tapadatass

[THE REAPER]

Originally Posted by silvapain If you want safe, reliable 350 WHp I'd recommend a BNR S3. Tapadatass

Hmmm...

My idea was to not necessarily touch the K04 itself, but to mainly max it and the engine potential for what it was worth. If I have to touch the turbo I might as well put big boy pants on and go all the way with it lol

[EdgeAutosport.com]

Originally Posted by THE REAPER Hmmm... My idea was to not necessarily touch the K04 itself, but to mainly max it and the engine potential for what it was worth. If I have to touch the turbo I might as well put big boy pants on and go all the way with it lol

Yay for big boy pants

[maynard576]

Originally Posted by eric@edgeautosport Is it at shift points? When does the noise occur?

It was happening from first to second. It seems to have been my initial reaction to the new mount though. It's been a few weeks since I installed my rear mount and all seems well with the world now. I either get a solid shift or i'll chirp depending on if I shift a little before or a little after 6k rpm.

[EdgeAutosport.com]

Originally Posted by maynard576 It was happening from first to second. It seems to have been my initial reaction to the new mount though. It's been a few weeks since I installed my rear mount and all seems well with the world now. I either get a solid shift or i'll chirp depending on if I shift a little before or a little after 6k rpm.

The mount may have settled but make sure and get under there and re torq everything properly unless this has already been done

[maynard576]

Originally Posted by eric@edgeautosport The mount may have settled but make sure and get under there and re torq everything properly unless this has already been done

I did it once about a week and a half after installing it but I plan to do it again. I figure i'm better safe than ending up with my motor repositioning itself.

[Speed3in215]

Just bought a stage 2 CS power series intake , will be purchasing an AP next month when I get the funds. I did not install the sri and tip yet, wanted to play it safe and get a cobb ap with it . What's the best price out there for one or do you have any specials on them?

[JP@edgeautosport.com]

Bump! What help do you guys need? Let us know what questions or concerns you have about modding. We always give real answers and sound advice. We have many customers that will tell you the same thing on here. We're glad to help in any way we can!

[Sid3wayS]

How much brake fluid does the gen2 use. Im looking to replace it all but havnt gotn a solid number on how much is in the system

[Bob-o]

2 questions. Big turbo EWG vs IWG. I know EWG is easier to control boost. Why would one go for IWG? Cost?

Also, manual vs electric boost controller? Again, what are the benefits of both, and how are each in regards to tuning?

I'm pondering a setup entailing a GT3071R EWG, with 3" maf and intake, with a MBC. I've already PM'd eric about it, but I was curious as to the above questions.

Thanks!

[EdgeAutosport.com]

2 questions. Big turbo EWG vs IWG. I know EWG is easier to control boost. Why would one go for IWG? Cost?

Mainly people go iwg>ewg is because of cost

Also, manual vs electric boost controller? Again, what are the benefits of both, and how are each in regards to tuning?

Mbc- easy to to tune on big turbo but what psi you are commanding happens in every gear. Even though I was set up to run 25psi I could never achieve 17psi in first gear so boost by gear really didnt matter because you can only run as low of psi as your wastegate spring is set for. I had mine for 17.4 psi and I could never get it to crack open in first gear because traction was no where to be seen.

EBCS- you can run reverse taper tunes, boost by gear and those would be the two most important features of using an ebcs to me. Tuning this unit is more finicky and

I'm pondering a setup entailing a GT3071R EWG, with 3" maf and intake, with a MBC. I've already PM'd eric about it, but I was curious as to the above questions.


If you really want traction in first gear get some type of slicks.

[EdgeAutosport.com]

Originally Posted by Sid3wayS How much brake fluid does the gen2 use. Im looking to replace it all but havnt gotn a solid number on how much is in the system

So I looked it up in the manual and it said nothing about capacity just about the types of fluid. Im still trying to track it down for you

[Ray Danger 2020]

Originally Posted by JP@edgeautosport.com I would definitely run stock hangers. Rubber = less noise, vibration, harshness. Bad for motor mounts, good for hanging exhaust on a street car. No other parts are necessary. You reuse the turbo gasket and the CPE DP is made with a large beaded end so it replaces the donut gasket from the factory and just hooks right up to an aftermarket 3" exhaust.

You know what? I had the UR CBE on my car with the stock hangers and it clanked and clunked like mad over any little bump and corner. I bought the CS urethane hangers the other day and I havn't had one unwanted noise from my exhaust since I put them on Friday. IMHO, worth the $60.

Originally Posted by Speed3in215 Just bought a stage 2 CS power series intake , will be purchasing an AP next month when I get the funds. I did not install the sri and tip yet, wanted to play it safe and get a cobb ap with it . What's the best price out there for one or do you have any specials on them?

Best price? Buy used...lol. Got mine from a guy who is now speedless for I like $450.

[JP@edgeautosport.com]

Originally Posted by Ray Danger 2020 You know what? I had the UR CBE on my car with the stock hangers and it clanked and clunked like mad over any little bump and corner. I bought the CS urethane hangers the other day and I havn't had one unwanted noise from my exhaust since I put them on Friday. IMHO, worth the $60.

Ya you have a good point here and actually after I posted this, I did some checking and it seems it has helped a few setups where the exhaust was moving around too much. Good call.

[Ray Danger 2020]

Originally Posted by JP@edgeautosport.com Ya you have a good point here and actually after I posted this, I did some checking and it seems it has helped a few setups where the exhaust was moving around too much. Good call.

It seemd like most of the clunking came from the hanger over the rear suspension being a bit too long and hitting the frame itself so I also (just for safe measure) took it off and ground it down like 1/4" on a bench grinder. Don't know if it's like that with other CBE's but it was with my UR.

[JP@edgeautosport.com]

Originally Posted by Ray Danger 2020 Best price? Buy used...lol. Got mine from a guy who is now speedless for I like $450.

Also, some people might be surprised by the deals we give on BRAND NEW APs that Cobb warranties and are fully supported. Buying a used one works but if there's problems, you might not be able to get them fixed or handled if you weren't the original purchaser.

Originally Posted by Ray Danger 2020 It seemd like most of the clunking came from the hanger over the rear suspension being a bit too long and hitting the frame itself so I also (just for safe measure) took it off and ground it down like 1/4" on a bench grinder. Don't know if it's like that with other CBE's but it was with my UR.

This isn't the first time I've heard of that exact hanger being slightly too long and doing that. UR knew about it and I think they've taken care of it since then.

[silvapain]

The AccessPort is complex and not user-repairable. For those reasons, plus the fact that the price difference between new and used isn't that much, I'd recommend buying an AP new (from Edge, of course).


Tapadatass

[Ray Danger 2020]

Originally Posted by JP@edgeautosport.com This isn't the first time I've heard of that exact hanger being slightly too long and doing that. UR knew about it and I think they've taken care of it since then.

I'm sure they have by now. Just like the v2.0 DP, which I would rather have than the v1.0 that I have. Moar flow is moar better.

[Ray Danger 2020]

BTW. I'll give you my dp for a v2.0...lol

[Bob-o]

I got the JBR EGR delete kit from you guys, and I've searched for definitive guides on how to do it. I know JBR has a written guide on his site, but no pictures! Is it as easy as it reads?

Or is it a bit more complex than removing battery + box, full intake, throttle body, take out a tube and a plug, put in a plate with some red RTV, and re button up the car?
@eric@edgeautosport

[EdgeAutosport.com]

Originally Posted by Bob-o I got the JBR EGR delete kit from you guys, and I've searched for definitive guides on how to do it. I know JBR has a written guide on his site, but no pictures! Is it as easy as it reads? Or is it a bit more complex than removing battery + box, full intake, throttle body, take out a tube and a plug, put in a plate with some red RTV, and re button up the car? @eric@edgeautosport

Thats its man! Its really super simple. I didnt want to take off my tip because it was a big pia on my turbo set up so I just pulled my fuel pump and was able to do it that way.

[Bob-o]

Originally Posted by eric@edgeautosport Thats its man! Its really super simple. I didnt want to take off my tip because it was a big pia on my turbo set up so I just pulled my fuel pump and was able to do it that way.

Woot. Hope it gets here by the end of the work week!

[thatsmrgimp2u]

Thinking about ditching the boost tube heading back into the intake stream on my turbo inlet. I read the ebcs in 3 port mode can be run to atmosphere, and I'd like to use that location for a tiny meth nozzle. Thoughts? Will the small amount of air being sent to atmosphere require tuning or will I just be a bit more rich in between shifts?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

[EdgeAutosport.com]

Originally Posted by thatsmrgimp2u Thinking about ditching the boost tube heading back into the intake stream on my turbo inlet. I read the ebcs in 3 port mode can be run to atmosphere, and I'd like to use that location for a tiny meth nozzle. Thoughts? Will the small amount of air being sent to atmosphere require tuning or will I just be a bit more rich in between shifts? Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

It can be tuned out I rant VTA for 30k plus with minimal afterfire. VTA FTW

[thatsmrgimp2u]

I'm talking about the grimmspeed ebcs in 3 port mode. The destructions say the third port can't just vent but I didn't know if that would cause any issues. It's a tiny amount of air that is recirculated now.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

[EdgeAutosport.com]

Originally Posted by thatsmrgimp2u I'm talking about the grimmspeed ebcs in 3 port mode. The destructions say the third port can't just vent but I didn't know if that would cause any issues. It's a tiny amount of air that is recirculated now. Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

If it says to vent I would just vent it, not need for recirc

[Jhornbrook]

what is the length of the stock front endlinks. i broke mine months ago and finally got the time to cut off the ball from the original endlinks that was still on the sway bar. so my question is whats the length of the genpu front endlinks. its been months since i threw my stock broken ones out.

[EdgeAutosport.com]

Originally Posted by Jhornbrook what is the length of the stock front endlinks. i broke mine months ago and finally got the time to cut off the ball from the original endlinks that was still on the sway bar. so my question is whats the length of the genpu front endlinks. its been months since i threw my stock broken ones out.

I have no idea to be honest let see if I can run down some solid info