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 Old 02-22-2012, 06:12 AM   #121
 
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Originally Posted by 2.3speed06 View Post
If you wanna run the stage two maps in the AP all you need is the HFHP right? My friend keeps saying that you have to have that and a down pipe. I never heard this n was wondering if that's the case.
Read COBBs website. I believe they say you need a DP for all stage 2 canned tunes.


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 Old 02-22-2012, 09:02 AM   #122
 
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@David@COBB

I also heard from a friend that whats listed does not include a DP/cat delete. Just a HPFP. Can anyone verify?
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 Old 02-22-2012, 09:14 AM   #123
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Originally Posted by Bob-o View Post
@David@COBB

I also heard from a friend that whats listed does not include a DP/cat delete. Just a HPFP. Can anyone verify?
It's implied with the Downpipe that you'll need a HPFP. Extra flow/boost means more fueling requirements to hit target AFR. You *could* run stage2 maps, but it's risky and not very consistent.

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 Old 02-22-2012, 09:22 AM   #124
 
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Originally Posted by silvapain View Post
Read COBBs website. I believe they say you need a DP for all stage 2 canned tunes.


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Originally Posted by Bob-o View Post
I also heard from a friend that whats listed does not include a DP/cat delete. Just a HPFP. Can anyone verify?
Saying what Silvapain said in a different way:

The document state that if you delete either of the 2 cats, you will need a HPFP.

After deleting one of the 2 cats and adding a hpfp... Cobb recommends their stage 2 tune.

This is the document which we are getting that info from:
http://accessecu.com/support/docs/su...%20Support.pdf

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 Old 02-22-2012, 02:21 PM   #125
 
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Thanks for the link. Didn't know stage two was intended to have a down pipe.
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 Old 02-22-2012, 02:30 PM   #126
 
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Originally Posted by 2.3speed06 View Post
Thanks for the link. Didn't know stage two was intended to have a down pipe.
Either a down pipe or a race pipe. Just need to delete one of the oem cats.

Here is another link which is on Cobb's Forum

2010 MAZDASPEED3 AccessPORT FAQ - Start Here for 2010 MS3 AP Questions!
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 Old 02-28-2012, 01:33 PM   #127
 
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Alright so BT ?'s, I've heard someone mention if they had to it over again they would go ap and fuel pump and then straight into a BT setup. So my mods now consist of ap, pump internals, and CS Sri/tip. Whats the least I need to run BT? Or should I focus on other mods first?
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 Old 02-28-2012, 03:26 PM   #128
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Originally Posted by pcvang View Post
Alright so BT ?'s, I've heard someone mention if they had to it over again they would go ap and fuel pump and then straight into a BT setup. So my mods now consist of ap, pump internals, and CS Sri/tip. Whats the least I need to run BT? Or should I focus on other mods first?
To be honest that would make it the ultimate sleeper car. I know plenty of people will tell you to put other supporting mods to maximize the potential of that turbo but it can be fitted with your stock dp and exhaust. With a gtx3071 you could make in the 350ish range. All you would need extra to make this work with your current mods would be a big turbo inlet and that would be it. To be honest a big turbo will net you more power then going with downpipe and full exhaust at this time.
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 Old 02-29-2012, 12:14 AM   #129
 
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Pm me parts list and pricing, and what about a gtx2867? Would I need a mbc or ebcs? Very interested in this. I am almost going to order dp and cbe. But this has got my attention now.

How much difference between 2867 and 3071?
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 Old 02-29-2012, 10:13 PM   #130
 
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what are the spring rates on the H&R coilovers. i looked on their site and couldnt find the answear i was looking for i realize they are progressive rate but that isnt enough info. im planning on ordering these regardless next week but was just curious. im excited to spend some money on your site. you guys have great customer service. speedy responses and answer all the questions we have. thanks guys.
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 Old 02-29-2012, 10:24 PM   #131
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Originally Posted by Jhornbrook View Post
what are the spring rates on the H&R coilovers. i looked on their site and couldnt find the answear i was looking for i realize they are progressive rate but that isnt enough info. im planning on ordering these regardless next week but was just curious. im excited to spend some money on your site. you guys have great customer service. speedy responses and answer all the questions we have. thanks guys.
John you are absolutely correct, H&R doesnt release the info on the spring rates on their coilovers for our car. We have even called them to get the info but no dice, let us know if you have any other questions!
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 Old 03-02-2012, 05:37 AM   #132
 
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any luck on that fender roller?

I'm also gonna need 10mm spacers, studs, front pads, and maybe spc ball joints. how bout a heat gun rental to go with the roller?
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 Old 03-07-2012, 09:02 PM   #133
 
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looking for first mods going to get sri tip and rmm will i have any problems running this with the stock tune and stock hpfp
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 Old 03-08-2012, 10:08 AM   #134
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Originally Posted by Mistersix View Post
any luck on that fender roller?

I'm also gonna need 10mm spacers, studs, front pads, and maybe spc ball joints. how bout a heat gun rental to go with the roller?
No ETA on the roller just yet sorry for the delay on it.

Originally Posted by blue 2011 View Post
looking for first mods going to get sri tip and rmm will i have any problems running this with the stock tune and stock hpfp

You will be fine as you will not be increasing boost levels.
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 Old 04-06-2012, 10:25 PM   #135
 
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I was wondering how much would lowering spring make a difference on handling wise in my MS6. Never owned a lowered car before, n just wanted to know if there's a real good noticeable difference in the handling of the car. I know the obvious choice would be a good coil over or nice springs with shocks n struts. But that's a little to expensive for me right now. Thanks in advance.
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 Old 04-06-2012, 10:47 PM   #136
 
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Do you guys sell/rent the injector puller that comes with the cpe safe seals? Picked up the ptp set but would rather not use a pick to pull the injector out.
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 Old 04-07-2012, 01:14 AM   #137
 
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Are you guys no longer doing the Grimmspeed throttle body?
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 Old 04-20-2012, 12:16 AM   #138
 
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@eric@edgeautosport

I may or may not have remember either you or JP or someone posting about the cable that connects your accessport to your car?

I remember vaguely reading that there was a defect in the cables, causing the AP to lose communication once you try to start a log, and it appears my AP is one of them. Could you give me some insight on the situation, and what I need to do to remedy it?
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 Old 04-20-2012, 12:31 AM   #139
 
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Originally Posted by Arodr260 View Post
i haz smoking turbo
i raised the idle with my hypertech and went away, but i noticed it came back the other night. im going to change the oil to see if it helps, which exactly should i use?
5w 40....its smoking...count down to blowing the turbo...Mine blew..a kittle smoke then the next day on the track first run and boom bye bye turbo....goodluck!
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 Old 04-20-2012, 02:17 PM   #140
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Originally Posted by Bob-o View Post
@eric@edgeautosport

I may or may not have remember either you or JP or someone posting about the cable that connects your accessport to your car?

I remember vaguely reading that there was a defect in the cables, causing the AP to lose communication once you try to start a log, and it appears my AP is one of them. Could you give me some insight on the situation, and what I need to do to remedy it?
http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...cables-105944/


Here you go bro!
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 Old 04-20-2012, 02:30 PM   #141
 
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when is a good time to go from 5w30 to 5w40? mods in sig

i had denso itv22, but one of them broke two days ago. the porcelain part broke off. there were even little pieces in the cylinder. the shop cleaned out the pieces, but unfortunately i have no extra itv22s so i put the stock one back... so im now running three itv22s and one stock... and we all know that itv22 are probably not going to be available soon... So i guess it's the NGK.

for the NGK i know we have to gap it to 0.026-0.028

now should i go 0.026, 0.027 or 0.028?? or is there not much difference?

also, should i just buy one NKG one step colder to replace that one plug, or should i just replace them all with NGKs and have the densos as back ups...
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 Old 04-20-2012, 02:34 PM   #142
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Replace all the plugs and gap them at .026 and you can switch the oil at anytime!
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 Old 04-20-2012, 03:44 PM   #143
 
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got it!

i read the rotella t6 thread. and i see some debates over seafoaming between oild changes.

im currently running castrol syntech 5w30, is it save to just switch over to rotella t6 5w40 without any sort of treatment?
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 Old 04-20-2012, 03:48 PM   #144
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Originally Posted by dhsieh911018 View Post
got it!

i read the rotella t6 thread. and i see some debates over seafoaming between oild changes.

im currently running castrol syntech 5w30, is it save to just switch over to rotella t6 5w40 without any sort of treatment?
Nope you should be good to go.
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 Old 04-20-2012, 05:31 PM   #145
 
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the grimspeed EWG block offs would work on racebuilt manifold's ewg?
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 Old 04-20-2012, 05:42 PM   #146
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Originally Posted by breakfstincluded View Post
the grimspeed EWG block offs would work on racebuilt manifold's ewg?
If they are the same size yes
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 Old 04-21-2012, 09:05 AM   #147
 
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Same question as breakfastincluded.

Do you guys still sell the Grimspeed throttle bodies?

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 Old 04-21-2012, 09:39 AM   #148
 
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How much gain would I get changing the exhaust mani?
Since im doing full cat back as well
Thanks
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 Old 04-23-2012, 10:26 AM   #149
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Originally Posted by m249saw View Post
Same question as breakfastincluded.

Do you guys still sell the Grimspeed throttle bodies?

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Sorry good sir we dont carry that product anymore

Originally Posted by Noodlesincup View Post
How much gain would I get changing the exhaust mani?
Since im doing full cat back as well
Thanks
You wont see an over all increase in power but delivery will be smoother and stronger. The reason is the k04 is the choke point not the manifold

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 Old 04-25-2012, 02:11 PM   #150
 
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Question regarding H&R wheel spacers. One side is completely flat. One side has a concave lip by the center bore. Which side faces out?

Also, in the order i got from you guys, i don't know if one of the spacers was drilled right, but it seems very hard to get onto my hub compared to the other spacers. Is it normal to have to force these guys on? And I mean really force them.
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 Old 04-25-2012, 02:13 PM   #151
 
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Originally Posted by Bob-o View Post
Question regarding H&R wheel spacers. One side is completely flat. One side has a concave lip by the center bore. Which side faces out?
Beveled side goes towards the hub; flat side out.


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 Old 04-25-2012, 02:15 PM   #152
 
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Okay thats what I thought. Thanks mate!
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 Old 05-10-2012, 10:50 AM   #153
 
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Do you have installed pics of a grimmspeed ebcs floating around anywhere? I've done some looking on here without much help. The gs images they've provided in the instructions don't make me feel super confident about tackling the install. Thanks!

Looking mainly for the vacuum line area, where the cap goes and such.


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 Old 06-04-2012, 12:35 AM   #154
 
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Lowered my car on H&R springs with bilstein sports. Now I have a TERRIBLE clunk in the front, and I think it is because my front end links are too short. I've read and read, and came across: front sway end links

Over bumps, I can feel my front sway bar slapping under my feet.

I think I need new, longer/adjustable end links, but I wanted to double check.
If I were to get new links, would these be the ones?

http://www.edgeautosport.com/whiteli...-endlinks-ms3/

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 Old 06-04-2012, 02:55 AM   #155
 
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So. I've owned my ms3 for a little over a week now. During that week i've read a metric fuckton of info on these forums and decided that my first purchase will more than likely be the jbr trilogy mount set. My question is: How much difference is there between the 70, 80, and 88 Durameter mounts. I get that the 70 is more for the street and the 88 is more for straight race. I'm just unsure about any other differences there may be.
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 Old 06-04-2012, 03:51 AM   #156
 
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Originally Posted by maynard576
So. I've owned my ms3 for a little over a week now. During that week i've read a metric fuckton of info on these forums and decided that my first purchase will more than likely be the jbr trilogy mount set. My question is: How much difference is there between the 70, 80, and 88 Durameter mounts. I get that the 70 is more for the street and the 88 is more for straight race. I'm just unsure about any other differences there may be.
Idk about the pu's or having all three mounts, but me n my friend have MS6's. I have the 70 duro sure rmm n he has the jbr 88 rmm. I love my mount n he loves mine too. He can't even have change in his cup holder or anything cuz it vibes so much. He loves his too but is annoyed by the vibes in lower rpms n the little shit that rattles cuz of it. If your not going all out on the car I personally think that the 70 would be your best choice. You can feel a huge difference in performance either way you go tho. Just depends how much vibe you want lol
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 Old 06-05-2012, 10:43 AM   #157
 
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1 more question. I'm nearing the end of my break-in. I've decided to go with the Rotella T6 oil for my engine lube. The only question I have is whether or not anyone is running any oil additives at all. I was looking at the lucas oil stabilizer and it seems like some pretty good shit. Is it worth it to add a bottle (1 qt) of this at every oil change? Will it actually help to minimize wear in the motor? Not trying to be an epic brownie or anything just didn't find an answer when I searched.
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 Old 06-05-2012, 10:45 AM   #158
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Originally Posted by maynard576 View Post
1 more question. I'm nearing the end of my break-in. I've decided to go with the Rotella T6 oil for my engine lube. The only question I have is whether or not anyone is running any oil additives at all. I was looking at the lucas oil stabilizer and it seems like some pretty good shit. Is it worth it to add a bottle (1 qt) of this at every oil change? Will it actually help to minimize wear in the motor? Not trying to be an epic brownie or anything just didn't find an answer when I searched.
No worries thats what we are here for! You will be fine with just the t6 rotella with no additives

Let me know if you have any other questions
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 Old 06-09-2012, 08:03 AM   #159
 
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Originally Posted by maynard576 View Post
1 more question. I'm nearing the end of my break-in. I've decided to go with the Rotella T6 oil for my engine lube. The only question I have is whether or not anyone is running any oil additives at all. I was looking at the lucas oil stabilizer and it seems like some pretty good shit. Is it worth it to add a bottle (1 qt) of this at every oil change? Will it actually help to minimize wear in the motor? Not trying to be an epic brownie or anything just didn't find an answer when I searched.
Like ^^ said you should be alright. If you want a cheap feel better additive check out rislone full engine treatment.
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 Old 06-11-2012, 08:50 AM   #160
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I love this thread it has some great info in it
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