BOLT ONS!! Q & A

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by rfinkle2 You will need a gigantic allen key that isn't included in most allen key kits.

It was in my Craftsman set, though I can't remember the size, or even if it was metric or SAE.


Tapadatass

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by silvapain It was in my Craftsman set, though I can't remember the size, or even if it was metric or SAE. Tapadatass

Your Craftsmen set>my set. LOL

Come to think of it, the Cp-e towplate uses the same size.

I'll run out and get it now and update the size.

Edit: 10mm

[captain slow]

Originally Posted by Jhornbrook which is a better mod? the cpe hpfp or the autotech internals. i dont know a whole lot about either of these but im trying to get the best option for my money.

Originally Posted by dizzydtrain it depends. A CP-E fp comes pre assembled with the upgraded internals installed already so it's a simple swap. Kmd,autotech,etc--those internals will have to be installed. Cpe's fuel pump is rather expensive but does carry a lifetime warranty. So it comes down to how comfortable you feel doing the install. There are plenty of how to's on the site.

Just to elaborate a bit on the price...
The CP-e pumps are $670 plus you need to tack on like $400 for a core charge. Don't quote me on the $400 core charge but I do know you end up forking out about $1000 upfront for the CP-e pump. Then you send in your old pump and pray you get your core charge returned.

If you do internals and install yourself you're only out about $350 and and afternoon of work.

I would rather take the CP-e pump with it's lifetime warranty and just swap it but price is huge to me so I'll be ordering autotechs and do the install myself. Great thing about this site is for some beer and lunch you could find someone local to you that has done the install and have them help you out with the internals.


Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

[JP@edgeautosport.com]

Originally Posted by Mistersix Do you have a fender roller to rent out? Come spring i need to get some wheels spacers and roll my rear fenders to get my stance proper for new tires.

We've been thinking about buying a few fender rollers and renting them out. Get in touch with us a few weeks before you do it and check with us if we have them.

Originally Posted by lowlightbw Hi, I just recently bought an 07 ms3. I am not looking for huge gains and I don't want to compromise the reliability of the motor but I would like to replace parts that are restrictive. Would a "stage 1" upgrade be a COBB sri and AP? Would I need to do add anything else? When do you advise upgrading to the HPFP? Thanks ahead!

By putting quotes around it, I know you know there are no "stages". But these are as good as it gets for the first 2 mods. Like someone else said, the rear motor mount has to go too. Any of the performance ones will change the car for the better, noticeably better. So yes that's correct. HPFP upgrade needs to come if you plan on getting your car past about 275whp. That's not an exact number but it's just a good ballpark area to upgrade. I was fully bolted in Denver at 5500ft with stock fuel pump and it ran 11.8AFR all day. In other words, I had plenty of fuel. But at sea level it's different. It's wise to do it after probably 2-3 bolt-on modifications. But there's no exact time. Monitor your fuel pressure, that's how you'll know. But don't let it get to the point where you have to upgrade to go further. Do it before than. Safe > sorry.

Originally Posted by Jhornbrook which is a better mod? the cpe hpfp or the autotech internals. i dont know a whole lot about either of these but im trying to get the best option for my money.

The CPE is better because of what it is, not just how it performs. Warranties are great to have, it is their own proprietary design and they do go over the pump more than just upgrading the internals. They both will perform similar.

[Mistersix]

Originally Posted by JP@edgeautosport.com We've been thinking about buying a few fender rollers and renting them out. Get in touch with us a few weeks before you do it and check with us if we have them.

Thanks i will. Its a project for spring time which around here won't be till probably april. i'll be in touch then.

You should also consider having a heat gun for rental as well. Make it a complete fender rolling solution. This, at least, would set you apart from the other vendors on here that have just the tool to rent.

[Bob-o]

I have a boost leak, and i think its from either my TIH connection or my intercooler to turbo connection. Could i get a size on the worm clamps for each of these?

[JP@edgeautosport.com]

Originally Posted by Bob-o I have a boost leak, and i think its from either my TIH connection or my intercooler to turbo connection. Could i get a size on the worm clamps for each of these?

All those connections are 2 inches. Only one that I'm questioning is the hot side inlet of the intercooler. But I know the other 2 connections are 2 inches.

[Bob-o]

Originally Posted by JP@edgeautosport.com All those connections are 2 inches. Only one that I'm questioning is the hot side inlet of the intercooler. But I know the other 2 connections are 2 inches.

Thanks JP. You may be getting an order soon for a grimspeed boost control solenoid. When my buddy installed it last winter, i remember an instant where there was a jerky pull on the TIH, and i heard bits of plastic falling under my car...

[LatinKraze]

On my CS TMIC the hot side t-bolt clamp is hard as shit to get on. Get the next step up from 2".

[EdgeAutosport.com]

Originally Posted by LatinKraze On my CS TMIC the hot side t-bolt clamp is hard as shit to get on. Get the next step up from 2".

2.25? or 2.5?

[LatinKraze]

2.5 but the 2.25 might work

I usually have to thread the nut on the bolt before the hot pipe goes into the boost tube.

[uncorked11]

JP@edgeautosport.com PM sent

[JP@edgeautosport.com]

Originally Posted by Bob-o I have a boost leak, and i think its from either my TIH connection or my intercooler to turbo connection. Could i get a size on the worm clamps for each of these?

Originally Posted by LatinKraze On my CS TMIC the hot side t-bolt clamp is hard as shit to get on. Get the next step up from 2".

Sorry, I guess I should have asked what intercooler you were running. I was just thinking factory for everything. But ya it depends on your intercooler. The turbo compressor inlet and outlet are both 2 inches.

[Ms3_Miami]

noob question!!! is it possible to reach 300-310whp with full bolt ons=cai/sri,tip,cbe,fp internals,fmic,dp,tp and ap w/perm on 93 pump gas @17psi??? considering some diffrences in car,dyno,sea level etc.. thanks in advance


EDIT: i just threw in 17psi as an example.. psi may vary

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by Ms3_Miami noob question!!! is it possible to reach 300-310whp with full bolt ons=cai/sri,tip,cbe,fp internals,fmic,dp,tp and ap w/perm on 93 pump gas @17psi??? considering some diffrences in car,dyno,sea level etc.. thanks in advance EDIT: i just threw in 17psi as an example.. psi may vary

Definitely. It will take more like 18-19 psi though.


Tapadatass

[JP@edgeautosport.com]

Originally Posted by Ms3_Miami noob question!!! is it possible to reach 300-310whp with full bolt ons=cai/sri,tip,cbe,fp internals,fmic,dp,tp and ap w/perm on 93 pump gas @17psi??? considering some diffrences in car,dyno,sea level etc.. thanks in advance EDIT: i just threw in 17psi as an example.. psi may vary

Originally Posted by silvapain Definitely. It will take more like 18-19 psi though. Tapadatass

This is actually exactly where our car is right now. Look at our project car page on the website right here.

Our Projects and Customer Cars

We're at 290whp which was not shown here. We did one last tune at 18psi that didn't get recorded. It's on 92 pump gas at a couple hundred feet ASL.

[Ms3_Miami]

Thanks Danny and JP its my DD so im more then happy with 290whp and 18psi sound just right for the K04 ,i dont want to go BT yet. Now i know where im gonna buy the rest of my stuff ;-)

[EdgeAutosport.com]

ttt

[Jhornbrook]

In your opinion what would be the best coilover set? I'm starting to save my money and I want great coils. I'm looking to track my car as well as be low. I have done some reading but it's all about coils vs spring/struts. I've got buddy's with slammed cars and I love the look. Just want a trackable ride that's low.

[EdgeAutosport.com]

Originally Posted by Jhornbrook In your opinion what would be the best coilover set? I'm starting to save my money and I want great coils. I'm looking to track my car as well as be low. I have done some reading but it's all about coils vs spring/struts. I've got buddy's with slammed cars and I love the look. Just want a trackable ride that's low.

The H&R's on our cars seem to be the best option out there. You would definitely not be disappointed with these coilovers

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by eric@edgeautosport The H&R's on our cars seem to be the best option out there. You would definitely not be disappointed with these coilovers

I would add KWs to that list.


Tapadatass

[EdgeAutosport.com]

Originally Posted by silvapain I would add KWs to that list. Tapadatass

Totally spaced those lol it was early but yes KW's for sure

[Jhornbrook]

Got another question for you guys. What is the stock downpipes flange size that connects to the test pipe. I just got the UR 3" test pipe and wanted to know if I have to mess with the downpipe as well as the cbe flange

[JP@edgeautosport.com]

Originally Posted by silvapain I would add KWs to that list.

I might even put KW's at number one. The V3 is the best coilover overall for the MS3 with it's combination of quality and ability to adjust EVERYTHING about the coilover. H&R's are damn good too. Both from Germany...you know they're gonna be good.

Originally Posted by Jhornbrook Got another question for you guys. What is the stock downpipes flange size that connects to the test pipe. I just got the UR 3" test pipe and wanted to know if I have to mess with the downpipe as well as the cbe flange

The actual flange size doesn't change, just the piping diameter. That pipe is a bolt-on part so it'll mate with the same style flange for the both the downpipe and the cbe. No changes to anything should be necessary.

[Jhornbrook]

Awesome thanks. I appreciate all the help.

[ziggidy08]

I've got a sure SRI and an AP. My internals and TIP are going on in the next week and i was thinking about getting a downpipe as well. i was just wondering if you knew if the un-catted version will set off the CEL or if the AP on stage 2 will keep that from coming on so the car can still be inspected?

[EdgeAutosport.com]

Originally Posted by ziggidy08 I've got a sure SRI and an AP. My internals and TIP are going on in the next week and i was thinking about getting a downpipe as well. i was just wondering if you knew if the un-catted version will set off the CEL or if the AP on stage 2 will keep that from coming on so the car can still be inspected?

You can just turn of the cel with ATR so it just disables it completely and wont have to worry about it again.

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by eric@edgeautosport You can just turn of the cel with ATR so it just disables it completely and wont have to worry about it again.

A point of clarification for those who have emissions testing: disabling the DTC with an AP puts that code into a 'not ready' state. Some emissions allow just one not ready code to pass; this can be an issue if the AP has also disabled and EGR or other codes.


Tapadatass

[ziggidy08]

Originally Posted by silvapain A point of clarification for those who have emissions testing: disabling the DTC with an AP puts that code into a 'not ready' state. Some emissions allow just one not ready code to pass; this can be an issue if the AP has also disabled and EGR or other codes. Tapadatass

Im in texas which does have the "ready light" testing. I just need to find a way to run ATR on OSX, preferably without running an emulator, so i can change that when i get a downpipe. Anyone know of an easy way to do this or is the best way to run a windows emulator?

[SofaKingAwesome]

Originally Posted by ziggidy08 Im in texas which does have the "ready light" testing. I just need to find a way to run ATR on OSX, preferably without running an emulator, so i can change that when i get a downpipe. Anyone know of an easy way to do this or is the best way to run a windows emulator?

@Matx can probably tell you about Texas inspections. If you just need someone to check the box for you in ATR just send me your map.

Sent from my Evo 3D

[ziggidy08]

Originally Posted by SofaKingAwesome If you just need someone to check the box for you in ATR just send me your map.

When i get the DP i'll definitely let you know. Thanks for the help btw.

[JP@edgeautosport.com]

Originally Posted by ziggidy08 Im in texas which does have the "ready light" testing. I just need to find a way to run ATR on OSX, preferably without running an emulator, so i can change that when i get a downpipe. Anyone know of an easy way to do this or is the best way to run a windows emulator?

You'll just have to run Windows on Mac.

[ziggidy08]

Originally Posted by JP@edgeautosport.com You'll just have to run Windows on Mac.

Looks like its time to boot camp it up!

[Bob-o]

My current wheels are 18x8 +38.
I want to get a set of H&R 5mm spacers, essentially giving me a +33 offset. Do you think i will need a roll?

Also, could you PM me your best price on 4 sets (8 spacers total) of 5mm H&R's, a set of rally armours (Black w/ red lettering), and a CP-e catless downpipe?

EDIT: What do you think of the JBR 5mm wheel spacers? Could you source them for me so i could make a combined order?

[JP@edgeautosport.com]

Originally Posted by Bob-o My current wheels are 18x8 +38. I want to get a set of H&R 5mm spacers, essentially giving me a +33 offset. Do you think i will need a roll? Also, could you PM me your best price on 4 sets (8 spacers total) of 5mm H&R's, a set of rally armours (Black w/ red lettering), and a CP-e catless downpipe? EDIT: What do you think of the JBR 5mm wheel spacers? Could you source them for me so i could make a combined order?

You will need a roll if you go lower. I'll PM you now.

[pcvang]

I have a question about dp to cbe connection. I havent seen a UR cbe in person. But from what i can gather from the pictures. It looks like it uses a 3 inch donut gasket flange. So if you look at AQ motorsports dp it has a 3 inch flat flange. So would these two mate up? Would it have sealing issues?

What bpv would you recommend personally and why?

You guys deal with AQ?

[Ms3_Miami]

Originally Posted by pcvang I have a question about dp to cbe connection. I havent seen a UR cbe in person. But from what i can gather from the pictures. It looks like it uses a 3 inch donut gasket flange. So if you look at AQ motorsports dp it has a 3 inch flat flange. So would these two mate up? Would it have sealing issues? What bpv would you recommend personally and why? You guys deal with AQ?

I see that alot of ppl on here get the Forge bvp.I've had the the hks bov in recirc mode for
15k miles and haven't had an issue or leak.I also like the sound better then any other bvp but thats my MO.

[Bob-o]

Ordered a downpipe and some spacers for a friend, and got some spacers and rally armors for myself! Thanks JP and eric!

[JP@edgeautosport.com]

Originally Posted by pcvang I have a question about dp to cbe connection. I havent seen a UR cbe in person. But from what i can gather from the pictures. It looks like it uses a 3 inch donut gasket flange. So if you look at AQ motorsports dp it has a 3 inch flat flange. So would these two mate up? Would it have sealing issues? What bpv would you recommend personally and why? You guys deal with AQ?

We don't have the AQ downpipe. You should be able to use a 3" 2 bolt gasket that is supplied either with the downpipe or the cbe. They should mate up fine.

For BPV, the most popular are the Forge and Cobb. I personally run a Cobb XLE and love it. No boost leaks. For some reason I was getting a boost leak with a Turbosmart 50/50 so I switched and went away. That's probably not the case with all of them but it was what I did at the time and I've kept it that way.

[2.3speed06]

If you wanna run the stage two maps in the AP all you need is the HFHP right? My friend keeps saying that you have to have that and a down pipe. I never heard this n was wondering if that's the case.