BOLT ONS!! Q & A

[A1ex]

Originally Posted by JP@edgeautosport.com That works. Your avatar is making me fall over in my chair man lol

lol i laugh every time i look at it

[silvapain]

Going to 5W40 oil helps the smoking. That was Mazda's fix early on. I've been running Shell Rotella T6 5W40 for a while and it works with no ill effects.

Oil temp should ideally be just over 212 degrees F. That way you'll boil off any condensation in the oil.


Tapadatass

[A1ex]

so besides the smoke, what problems can the smoking turbo cause?

[JP@edgeautosport.com]

Originally Posted by arodr260 so besides the smoke, what problems can the smoking turbo cause?

Well it's letting in oil/coolant. It's getting probably a very thin lining of oil/coolant on your intercooler and intake system from your turbo forward. Ultimately it's putting stuff in the cylinder that isn't supposed to come from where it is. It's really an extremely small amount but as it gets worse, the effects get worse. It's honestly something that should be fixed at some point.

[A1ex]

Originally Posted by JP@edgeautosport.com Well it's letting in oil/coolant. It's getting probably a very thin lining of oil/coolant on your intercooler and intake system from your turbo forward. Ultimately it's putting stuff in the cylinder that isn't supposed to come from where it is. It's really an extremely small amount but as it gets worse, the effects get worse. It's honestly something that should be fixed at some point.

thanks for the info, im working on getting it fixed asap!

[Joellc2434]

So I just stumbled upon this thread by accident but I saw at the bottom or Eric's sig:

GTX3071/3076 Turbo Kits 1,649.00 FREE SHIPPING

Are these complete bolt on kits for the MS3?

If so, I have a cp-e CAI and SURE Sidewinder Turbo inlet pipe...are these compatible with one of these turbos? do I need a larger turbo inlet? what else would I really need to install this on my 07 MS3?

[A1ex]

well anyone interested in an update my car is at the dealer getting the tsb and valve cover replaced, the guy called corporate because of a boost gauge but didnt mention anything about being catless lol corporate said to go ahead and fix the car
should be getting it back later today

[Joellc2434]

Originally Posted by arodr260 well anyone interested in an update my car is at the dealer getting the tsb and valve cover replaced, the guy called corporate because of a boost gauge but didnt mention anything about being catless lol corporate said to go ahead and fix the car should be getting it back later today

Good for you. I was at my dealer for another reason and they saw my car smoking. They know about the TSB but pretty much said "too bad your car isn't stock". LIke it really matters. Oh well, will go big turbo eventually anyway!

[A1ex]

Originally Posted by Joellc2434 Good for you. I was at my dealer for another reason and they saw my car smoking. They know about the TSB but pretty much said "too bad your car isn't stock". LIke it really matters. Oh well, will go big turbo eventually anyway!

wow that blows, and yea with bt you wont have to worry about that

[JP@edgeautosport.com]

Originally Posted by Joellc2434 So I just stumbled upon this thread by accident but I saw at the bottom or Eric's sig: GTX3071/3076 Turbo Kits 1,649.00 FREE SHIPPING Are these complete bolt on kits for the MS3? If so, I have a cp-e CAI and SURE Sidewinder Turbo inlet pipe...are these compatible with one of these turbos? do I need a larger turbo inlet? what else would I really need to install this on my 07 MS3?

Yes they are bolt-on. You would need to replace the Turbo Inlet Pipe, we recommend the CPE Big Turbo Inlet Pipes. They fit really well and you can order it for compatibility with any intake system. With the CPE CAI, it would be the 3" MAF version. I would also recommend an aftermarket boost control solution like a Hallman or Grimmspeed MBC (manual boost controller) or the Grimmspeed EBCS (electronic boost control solenoid).

Please PM me if you'd like to order or if you have additional questions.

Originally Posted by arodr260 well anyone interested in an update my car is at the dealer getting the tsb and valve cover replaced, the guy called corporate because of a boost gauge but didnt mention anything about being catless lol corporate said to go ahead and fix the car should be getting it back later today

That's awesome!!!

[JLee1469]

I've see some BT builds use a huge reducer coupler for the smaller inlet.

[JP@edgeautosport.com]

Originally Posted by JLee1469 I've see some BT builds use a huge reducer coupler for the smaller inlet.

Yep, you can do that too. We have all the couplers you can ever think of.

[Blaze]

I've read around here not to use a MBC. Of course this is after I've been running one for a couple weeks now. Why should you not use one?...I guess this doesnt really fall under "bolt ons"

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by BlazeYDH I've read around here not to use a MBC. Of course this is after I've been running one for a couple weeks now. Why should you not use one?...I guess this doesnt really fall under "bolt ons"

You certainly can run a MBC, but you lose the ability to dynamically control boost based on temp, gear, load, etc. that you have with an EBC and tuning.


Tapadatass

[Blaze]

Thanks for that bit of info with no flame

[m249saw]

2 questions:

Do I need to reinstall the heat shields around the turbo after installing my UR downpipe?

And can you lay out a good upgrade path for suspension? We have alot of topics for engine and BT builds but not so much for suspension.

[Bob-o]

I'm pretty sure you do have to reinstall the heat shields...

As for suspension, start with a good RSB, like JBR's, then depending on what you want, you could go for some coilovers, or a good spring/shock set up. If your ride height drops, which it probably will, it doesn't hurt to get some rear camber arms.

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by Bob-o I'm pretty sure you do have to reinstall the heat shields... As for suspension, start with a good RSB, like JBR's, then depending on what you want, you could go for some coilovers, or a good spring/shock set up. If your ride height drops, which it probably will, it doesn't hurt to get some rear camber arms.

I would do springs/struts or coilovers and camber arms before a rear antiroll bar.


Tapadatass

[bmfms3]

I want to run 18x9.5 grids but don't want to lower my poo. I don't want to drop so much money just for the bad ass look. Are coils really necessary? ???? Everyone just states that the OEM struts are too '' beefy/bulky''

[JP@edgeautosport.com]

Originally Posted by m249saw 2 questions: Do I need to reinstall the heat shields around the turbo after installing my UR downpipe? And can you lay out a good upgrade path for suspension? We have alot of topics for engine and BT builds but not so much for suspension.

It's your option to reinstall heat shields but they are effective. I would keep them on if you can.

As far as suspension, what are you trying to accomplish? Is it going to the track? Do you just want a flush look?

Originally Posted by bmfms3 I want to run 18x9.5 grids but don't want to lower my poo. I don't want to drop so much money just for the bad ass look. Are coils really necessary? ???? Everyone just states that the OEM struts are too '' beefy/bulky''

By "bad ass" look I assume you mean flush. If you want to eliminate wheel gap and make it look flush, you have to lower it somehow. The easiest and most inexpensive way to do that is by using lowering springs. This is perfectly okay for any average vehicle out on the street. But because you're lowering the vehicle, you're pushing the stock shock absorbers past the limits they were intended to be used for from Mazda. This will make them wear out faster. It's not a bad thing, but they just wear out faster. At that time or anytime before, you can upgrade to a shock that is more suited for a lowered spring like a Bilstein B8 or a Koni Sport shock. Ultimately, if you're going after an exact look, you need coilovers. It's the only way to customize your stance with wheel combination.

[bmfms3]

Originally Posted by JP@edgeautosport.com It's your option to reinstall heat shields but they are effective. I would keep them on if you can. As far as suspension, what are you trying to accomplish? Is it going to the track? Do you just want a flush look? By "bad ass" look I assume you mean flush. If you want to eliminate wheel gap and make it look flush, you have to lower it somehow. The easiest and most inexpensive way to do that is by using lowering springs. This is perfectly okay for any average vehicle out on the street. But because you're lowering the vehicle, you're pushing the stock shock absorbers past the limits they were intended to be used for from Mazda. This will make them wear out faster. It's not a bad thing, but they just wear out faster. At that time or anytime before, you can upgrade to a shock that is more suited for a lowered spring like a Bilstein B8 or a Koni Sport shock. Ultimately, if you're going after an exact look, you need coilovers. It's the only way to customize your stance with wheel combination.

So can I still stuff the wheels with just springs , or are other suspension mods really required ? Even if i really don't want to lower the car any? I'm still going to buy rear sway bar and such but not so much wanting to lower my puu please help.

[2.3speed06]

I just got my MS6 a little less then a month ago and I've already purchased the AP. My question is if I should next get the HPFP, and if I do will everything still work just fine with just the AP and HPFP? Or do I need to get a fuel pressure regulator to go with it.? I'm currently running the v200 stage1 93 map. The only mod at this time is the AP. Thanks for the help, I really need it lol

[BobbleHead]

Originally Posted by 2.3speed06 I just got my MS6 a little less then a month ago and I've already purchased the AP. My question is if I should next get the HPFP, and if I do will everything still work just fine with just the AP and HPFP? Or do I need to get a fuel pressure regulator to go with it.? I'm currently running the v200 stage1 93 map. The only mod at this time is the AP. Thanks for the help, I really need it lol

monitor your fuel pressure with AP. If it drops below 1600 PSI at WOT hen replace your internals ASAP. If you plan for stage 2 mods then you should get CDFP internals first

[EdgeAutosport.com]

Originally Posted by black07spd monitor your fuel pressure with AP. If it drops below 1600 PSI at WOT hen replace your internals ASAP. If you plan for stage 2 mods then you should get CDFP internals first

This is correct

[2.3speed06]

Will do, time meow. Thanks for the help. When I replace the internals can I run it as is after or do I have to tune the fuel with the AP?

[JP@edgeautosport.com]

Originally Posted by bmfms3 So can I still stuff the wheels with just springs , or are other suspension mods really required ? Even if i really don't want to lower the car any? I'm still going to buy rear sway bar and such but not so much wanting to lower my puu please help.

You can still keep the stock suspension and put wheels on. That's the easiest way of going about selecting wheels actually. If you don't want to lower it, you can leave the factory suspension parts the way they are and you should be just fine with most new wheels.

Originally Posted by 2.3speed06 I just got my MS6 a little less then a month ago and I've already purchased the AP. My question is if I should next get the HPFP, and if I do will everything still work just fine with just the AP and HPFP? Or do I need to get a fuel pressure regulator to go with it.? I'm currently running the v200 stage1 93 map. The only mod at this time is the AP. Thanks for the help, I really need it lol

You will only need the HPFP upgrade. You have a long way to go until you max that fuel upgrade out.

[2.3speed06]

I have another question that doesn't have to do with parts, what does NATOR mean lmao

[SofaKingAwesome]

Do you carry flux capacitors?

[Kamaril]

Originally Posted by 2.3speed06 I have another question that doesn't have to do with parts, what does NATOR mean lmao

Something to do with a baconator i believe. i remember the was a post about this somewhere. gonna see if i can find it.

[EdgeAutosport.com]

Originally Posted by 2.3speed06 I have another question that doesn't have to do with parts, what does NATOR mean lmao

lol heres the link to it http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...g-nator-34719/

Originally Posted by SofaKingAwesome Do you carry flux capacitors?

yes we do. 1,000,000 dollars lol

[2.3speed06]

Lol thanks for the link. I was so lost on what that was supposed to mean. Thanks lol

[EdgeAutosport.com]

Originally Posted by 2.3speed06 Lol thanks for the link. I was so lost on what that was supposed to mean. Thanks lol

no problem lol let me know if you need anything else!

[2.3speed06]

If I instal an egr block off plate, do I need to get an oil catch can to go along with it? Just heard someone talking about that n didn't feel like getting torn to pieces by asking them lol. I freakin love this thread!! Thanks a lot guys!!

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by 2.3speed06 If I instal an egr block off plate, do I need to get an oil catch can to go along with it? Just heard someone talking about that n didn't feel like getting torn to pieces by asking them lol. I freakin love this thread!! Thanks a lot guys!!

No. EGR and PCV are separate systems.


Tapadatass

[Jhornbrook]

which is a better mod? the cpe hpfp or the autotech internals. i dont know a whole lot about either of these but im trying to get the best option for my money.

[dizzydtrain]

Originally Posted by Jhornbrook which is a better mod? the cpe hpfp or the autotech internals. i dont know a whole lot about either of these but im trying to get the best option for my money.

it depends. A CP-E fp comes pre assembled with the upgraded internals installed already so it's a simple swap. Kmd,autotech,etc--those internals will have to be installed.

Cpe's fuel pump is rather expensive but does carry a lifetime warranty. So it comes down to how comfortable you feel doing the install. There are plenty of how to's on the site.

[lowlightbw]

Hi,
I just recently bought an 07 ms3. I am not looking for huge gains and I don't want to compromise the reliability of the motor but I would like to replace parts that are restrictive. Would a "stage 1" upgrade be a COBB sri and AP? Would I need to do add anything else? When do you advise upgrading to the HPFP? Thanks ahead!

[Mistersix]

Do you have a fender roller to rent out? Come spring i need to get some wheels spacers and roll my rear fenders to get my stance proper for new tires.

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by lowlightbw Hi, I just recently bought an 07 ms3. I am not looking for huge gains and I don't want to compromise the reliability of the motor but I would like to replace parts that are restrictive. Would a "stage 1" upgrade be a COBB sri and AP? Would I need to do add anything else? When do you advise upgrading to the HPFP? Thanks ahead!

'Stages' don't mean a thing. If you want to do basic, high bang for your buck mods, I'd recommend:

1. RMM
2. SRI
3. AP

As long as you don't up boost too much, you'll be fine on the stock CDFP.


Tapadatass

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by 2.3speed06 If I instal an egr block off plate, do I need to get an oil catch can to go along with it? Just heard someone talking about that n didn't feel like getting torn to pieces by asking them lol. I freakin love this thread!! Thanks a lot guys!!

You will need a gigantic allen key that isn't included in most allen key kits.