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 Old 06-21-2011, 01:59 PM   #1
 
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Default Replacement VVT Parts Kit

Can anyone tell me if anyone does VVT Actuator, tensioner, chain etc as a kit to buy??

thanks
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 Old 06-21-2011, 02:36 PM   #2
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 Old 06-25-2011, 05:05 PM   #3
 
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Originally Posted by ukmps3 View Post
Can anyone tell me if anyone does VVT Actuator, tensioner, chain etc as a kit to buy??

thanks
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 Old 06-25-2011, 05:35 PM   #4
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You missed all the bolts and washers.

And timing tools.
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 Old 06-25-2011, 05:41 PM   #5
 
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Hmm, I could not find bolts and washers. Can you help me with proper links?

I don't need tools - Job will be done by Mazda service. I will import part from US because they are 50% cheaper than here
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 Old 06-25-2011, 05:57 PM   #6
 
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Why not get the upgraded vvt?
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 Old 06-25-2011, 08:37 PM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by superskaterxes View Post
lol u mean the one that doesent work? its either JJ or alpha whos having all those problems and hes on like this 3rd one.
No, my DCR VVT works great! Just don't buy the Corksport LW Crank Pulley haha!

The welds cracked on the timing ring in two days and caused a ton of timing issues. Stock crank pulley FTW until someone designs a good LW version!
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 Old 06-27-2011, 07:32 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Alpha View Post
No, my DCR VVT works great! Just don't buy the Corksport LW Crank Pulley haha!

The welds cracked on the timing ring in two days and caused a ton of timing issues. Stock crank pulley FTW until someone designs a good LW version!
Alpha, Is Kelly here at Corksport working with you on the pulley?

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 Old 06-27-2011, 07:38 PM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by CorkSport View Post
Alpha, Is Kelly here at Corksport working with you on the pulley?

Derrick
Yes she is, thanks. Been super cool thus far so hopefully we can get everything straightened out.

These really need to be redesigned to hold up under our driving conditions. I have some great ideas if you guye are interested?
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 Old 06-27-2011, 08:04 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Alpha View Post
Yes she is, thanks. Been super cool thus far so hopefully we can get everything straightened out.

These really nees to be redesigned to hold up under driving conditions. I have some great ideas if you guye are interested.
Send your ideas on over via email.

Thanks
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 Old 06-25-2011, 06:09 PM   #11
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You dont need the valve cover gasket either unles you tore it or something. The tensioner and guides most likely do not absolutely need to be replaced unless you have alot of miles/km.

The cam sprocket bolts are :
LF1712428 x2

The cam friction washers are:
L3K912429 x2

Timing chain tensioner is:
L3K912500A x1

Timing chain guide is:
L3K912671 x1
L3K912614 x1
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 Old 06-26-2011, 01:41 AM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by 06Speed6 View Post
You dont need the valve cover gasket either unles you tore it or something. The tensioner and guides most likely do not absolutely need to be replaced unless you have alot of miles/km.

The cam sprocket bolts are :
LF1712428 x2

The cam friction washers are:
L3K912429 x2

Timing chain tensioner is:
L3K912500A x1

Timing chain guide is:
L3K912671 x1
L3K912614 x1
I have almost 100k miles on it. Rattling and ticking started to be quite annoying.
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 Old 06-25-2011, 06:19 PM   #13
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im gona edit the title for better future reference, great thread thanks 06
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 Old 06-26-2011, 08:34 AM   #14
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If you have that many miles, I would replace all of the parts I listed. I also recommend the DCR VVT, it is alot cheaper than having someone replace it twice.
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 Old 06-30-2011, 01:30 AM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by 06Speed6 View Post
If you have that many miles, I would replace all of the parts I listed. I also recommend the DCR VVT, it is alot cheaper than having someone replace it twice.
Is DCR more reliable than the OEM VVT actuator? I had my VVT mechanism completely changed 12k miles ago, but recently it started ticking again. Wtf ??

Are there any clues of changing the timing mechanism except for assembling everything just the way it was working? Or are there any installation tricks with tensioners etc?

Thanks in advance.
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 Old 06-26-2011, 10:07 AM   #16
 
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What is the reason of buying aftermarket vvt actuator?
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Autotech HPFP internals, Forge BPV Gen2, K&N Typhoon,CPE TIP, Sachs clutch, Fidanza flywheel, STRI oil temp and egt temp, Innovation AFR, Bilstein B14, TRZ Dog Bone RMM, James Barone Racing RSB, HEL Brakelines, Tenzo-r DC5, Bridgestone S001 235/40

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 Old 06-26-2011, 10:48 AM   #17
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Better materials.
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 Old 06-26-2011, 11:20 AM   #18
 
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So it doesn't break again.
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 Old 06-27-2011, 08:31 AM   #19
 
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Thanks for the info.
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 Old 08-02-2011, 10:55 AM   #20
 
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Okay so I have had my speed 6 for three weeks and its ticking kinda bad. i took it to the dealership and they told me that it was the vvt and all the other stuff. they also told me that it would be $1100 to fix it and i do not want to pay that. Is this a job I could probably do myself?
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 Old 08-02-2011, 03:00 PM   #21
 
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Originally Posted by JAGspeed6 View Post
Okay so I have had my speed 6 for three weeks and its ticking kinda bad. i took it to the dealership and they told me that it was the vvt and all the other stuff. they also told me that it would be $1100 to fix it and i do not want to pay that. Is this a job I could probably do myself?
If you are asking if VVT replacing is job to do by your self... it means you have no idea how tough job it is. 1100$ for parts+job (around 6 hours) is not so bad price.
You can always buy parts on mazdaparts (whole VVT around 330$) and ask Mazda dealer to replace it. I think this will be definitely cheaper option.

If you have somebody who knows how to change VVT in our DISI engine - buy required tools: Cam Alignment Tool and Top Dead Center Peg (~200$).

Remember to correct align the Camshaft position sensor.
It looks that mine is wrong. Well - It is setup according to Mazda Service Manual (check this page)and Ignition Timing (on idle) is setup to 10', however I fell I lost some power/torque now.
I compared it with my buddy And he has 13' at idle. I heard that this is kind of "bug" in the manual. I have to fix some other things and then I will be sure if VVT is a right part to complain.

After changing my VVT I realized also that fuel consumption grows by 2l/100km


BTW guys, what do you think about my situation and Camshaft position sensor alignment? Should I change it anyway?
Look on it (comparing my new vvt installation and my buddy's old one):
ME
RPM Ignition Timing
---- --------------
680 11
1000 28
1500 37
2000 41.5

Buddy's
RPM Ignition Timing
---- --------------
680 12-13
1000 36.5
1500 45.5
2000 46.5-47.5
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 Old 08-03-2011, 02:04 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by JAGspeed6 View Post
Okay so I have had my speed 6 for three weeks and its ticking kinda bad. i took it to the dealership and they told me that it was the vvt and all the other stuff. they also told me that it would be $1100 to fix it and i do not want to pay that. Is this a job I could probably do myself?
i build my entire motor up 3 times and i still DO NOT want to touch my damn VVT retiming motor is a huge responsibility and to pin it on the dealer by paying is a very good idea especially if your asking the questions it means your not ready!
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 Old 08-02-2011, 06:35 PM   #23
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Our cx7 is getting it done at the dealer right now. Read enough here on it to know it's worth $600 for someone, especially the dealer, to handle. Way out of my league, and I've worked on cars for 25 years.
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 Old 08-03-2011, 12:17 PM   #24
 
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Alright thanks for your help Burdoror. I may just take it to the dealership
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 Old 08-03-2011, 01:06 PM   #25
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@Burdoror Ignition timing is based off of the crank position sensor, not the camshaft phase sensor. Also compairing spark timing between cars at various rpms is near impossible, in the ECU spark timing is based off of rpm and load, but that table is then modified by the ign open/closed loop tables, the ign retard knock tables, ign high/low BAT tables, ign overload tables, and some others.
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 Old 08-03-2011, 01:24 PM   #26
 
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Originally Posted by 06Speed6 View Post
@Burdoror Ignition timing is based off of the crank position sensor, not the camshaft phase sensor. Also compairing spark timing between cars at various rpms is near impossible, in the ECU spark timing is based off of rpm and load, but that table is then modified by the ign open/closed loop tables, the ign retard knock tables, ign high/low BAT tables, ign overload tables, and some others.
Sorry, I know how to call it in polish - I was guessing English meaning Thanks for clarifying
These values were made on neutral gear - so no there were no loads at all.

Lets look into idle table only. The crank position sensor is configuring during VVT installation. As Mazda service owner says - Approx. BTDC 10 degree. And what I heard - this is wrong and default is setup to 13 degrees. Can you just check yours ignition time on idle? I'm just curious if I am right

Here is the Service manual tutorial for incpection of:

IGNITION TIMING INSPECTION

A6E390802000W01
Note
• Ignition timing is not adjustable.
• Ignition timing verification requires WDS or equivalent.
1. Turn off the electrical loads.
2. Warm up the engine as follows.
(1) Start the engine.
(2) Maintain the engine speed at approx. 3,000 rpm until the cooling fans start to operate.
(3) Release the accelerator pedal.
(4) Wait until the cooling fans stop.
3. Verify that the ignition timing (WDS: SPARKADV PID) is within the specification using WDS or equivalent.
Ignition timing
Approx. BTDC 10 degree

4. Verify that ingestion timing advances when the engine speed increases gradually.

IDLE SPEED INSPECTION

A6E390802000W02
Note
• Ignition timing is not adjustable.
• Ignition timing verification requires WDS or equivalent.
1. Turn off the electrical loads.
2. Warm up the engine as follows.
(1) Start the engine.
(2) Maintain the engine speed at approx. 3,000 rpm until the cooling fans start to operate.
(3) Release the accelerator pedal.
(4) Wait until the cooling fans stop.
3. Verify that the idle speed (WDS: RPM PID) is within the specification using WDS or equivalent.
Idle speed (L8 engine model)
Idle speed (LF engine MTX model)
ENGINE TUNE-UP
Condition Engine speed (rpm)*1
No load 650—750
Electrical loads*2 ON 650—750
P/S ON 700—800
A/C ON and refrigerant
pressure switch (middle) OFF 700—800
A/C ON and refrigerant
pressure switch (middle) ON 700—800



----------------------------------------
Second thing is my fuel consuption whci grows just after VVT replacement by 1-2l/100km.
I'm curious what was the impact of VVT installation
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 Old 08-03-2011, 02:08 PM   #27
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I just picked mine up, and there was $400 in parts, $800 in labor. According to the tech, it is his least favorite thing to do on our cars, as it is cramped, and so much can possibly go wrong if not done right.

Yeah, I might walk funny for a while, but my motor is running.
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 Old 08-03-2011, 02:18 PM   #28
 
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Originally Posted by Raider View Post
I just picked mine up, and there was $400 in parts, $800 in labor. According to the tech, it is his least favorite thing to do on our cars, as it is cramped, and so much can possibly go wrong if not done right.

Yeah, I might walk funny for a while, but my motor is running.

can you grab some logs on idle, 1000 and 1500 rpm (all on neutral gear). I'm wondering how looks your ignition timing.
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 Old 08-03-2011, 02:33 PM   #29
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mail me a dashhawk and I will. (CX-7).

Worried about your VVT going out? Do what the dealer would do to check.
TSB: 0101011 - 02/23/2011 - VVT Noise At Engine Start Up | Technical Service Bulletins

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 Old 08-03-2011, 10:55 PM   #30
 
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Raider - I'm sorry but it is impossible. Postage fee are not worth of it . From CZ to US cost will be around 50$ in one way

BTW, was there any Bulletin regarding bugs in the service manual?
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 Old 08-04-2011, 03:12 AM   #31
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Ha. But I can ship it for $10 back.

Bugs in the service manual? Like insects? Not sure what you mean.
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 Old 08-04-2011, 03:13 AM   #32
 
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NO Bugs is a common name for mistakes, errors, etc...
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 Old 08-04-2011, 03:22 AM   #33
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That is what I thought. I think finishlineperformance.com has them posted
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 Old 08-04-2011, 03:30 AM   #34
 
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WOW. Thanks a lot!
Here is the direct link Mazda3 Bulletins
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 Old 08-05-2011, 01:37 AM   #35
 
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Guys,
Can anybody do the logs form me? It will take 5 minutes of your time You even don need to go anywhere - test has to be done on neutral gear

Thanks a lot!
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 Old 08-05-2011, 06:18 PM   #36
 
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Damn. I had just done tests on WOT. I can't go higher than 0.94 BAR... Before VVT replacement I had 1.22 BAR on WOT (at ~4500rpm and slipping clutch - new clutch just arrived to... custom office : vmad : )


Question - does the clutch have any influence on turbo charge?
BTW - Clutch was slipping before my VVT was changed - I notified my power loss after this replacement.
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 Old 12-05-2012, 07:40 PM   #37
 
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@Raider; @superskaterxes; @Tokay444; maybe this should be a sticky/ knowledge base item? lots of good info here that i had to search for a couple times to find
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 Old 12-06-2012, 06:34 AM   #38
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It's an old thread, and I would prefer to see one with everything listed in post #1 with part #'s. I want to say there is a tube of gasket material too. Make a new thread with everything listed, and I will stick that.
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 Old 12-06-2012, 07:39 AM   #39
 
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Originally Posted by Raider View Post
It's an old thread, and I would prefer to see one with everything listed in post #1 with part #'s. I want to say there is a tube of gasket material too. Make a new thread with everything listed, and I will stick that.
Will do later. I have everything in a cart, just have to screen shot it when I get back to my computer.

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