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 Old 12-22-2008, 08:37 AM   #1
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Default How to bleed MazdaSpeed 3 clutch slave cylinder

To bleed the clutch slave cylinder you will need.
The car up on jacks/lift and the belly plate off...
9mm box wrench
Dot3 or better brake fluid.
Shop Rag or drain line and bucket.
A friend

Notice: the brake/clutch reservior on the firewall is a dual baffle design. Meaning, the fluid for the brakes and the clutch are found in the same reservior and likewise filled at the same location. If you look at this reservior, the fluid for the brakes is found in the front of the reservior and the fluid for the clutch slave cylinder is found in the back of the reservior. To fill the clutch slave cylinder reservior, one will need to OVERFILL the brake reservior to get fluid in that rear baffle..

Once sufficent fluid is in the rear baffle the process can begin. Otherwise, you'll be pumping air and fustrated.

Have a friend pump and hold the clutch pedal to the floor. Using the 9mm box wrench, crack the bleeder valve on the clutch slave cylinder. Have a shop rag handy to cover the port when it is cracked to catch any fluid or you can attach a 1/4" hose to the bleeder valve nipple and re-route the brake fluid to a bucket. When you crack the valve air and some fluid will escape. Tighten the valve back. At this point your friend will need to manually pull the clutch pedal from the floor.

This process will repeat until there is no air left in the line and only fluid squirts out. Once all air has been bled and the clutch pedal manually pulled back to postion. Test the system. The clutch pedal should start moving the slave cylinder and the spring in the slave cylinder will move the pedal back to the up position...DONT FORGET TO TOP OFF FLUIDS WHEN YOU FINISH THIS PROCESS. This might mean you'll need to remove fluid from the brake section of the reservior.
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 Old 12-22-2008, 08:48 AM   #2
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Default

Don't even attempt this by yourself. I wasted alot of time attempting that.
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 Old 11-26-2017, 08:37 PM   #3
 
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For those who are looking to do this job for the first time in their life, I keep reading about buying a power bleeder.

Now that I’ve attributed to this, time to ask a question. Is it bad just to change the clutch fluid and not the entire system? I searched, but didn’t see anything in particular to this question.

Fuck me, just found my answer. I used different keywords.
The correct procedure for bleeding brakes
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 Old 11-27-2017, 04:19 PM   #4
 
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Originally Posted by krimsonviper View Post
For those who are looking to do this job for the first time in their life, I keep reading about buying a power bleeder.

Now that I’ve attributed to this, time to ask a question. Is it bad just to change the clutch fluid and not the entire system? I searched, but didn’t see anything in particular to this question.

Fuck me, just found my answer. I used different keywords.
The correct procedure for bleeding brakes
You might catch hell for resurrecting a 9 year old thread, so hold on.

Anyhow, this weekend I replaced my master, slave, and rubber line with braided steel on my clutch system. It was totally void of hydraulic fluid once installed. I sucessfully bled it in 20 minutes with this by myself.

https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Perfo...00F9XHVKA?th=1
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 Old 11-27-2017, 07:11 PM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by Thor Hammer View Post
You might catch hell for resurrecting a 9 year old thread, so hold on.

Anyhow, this weekend I replaced my master, slave, and rubber line with braided steel on my clutch system. It was totally void of hydraulic fluid once installed. I sucessfully bled it in 20 minutes with this by myself.

https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Perfo...00F9XHVKA?th=1
I don’t care much for age when it comes to how-tos. I’m going to catch flak for asking questions, and I’m going to catch flak for resurrecting a thread. Damned if you do, damned if you don’t. I’d rather piss off a few people rather than spend money on a fuck up. At least I added something for future readers on a how-to they might happen across.
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