Evap system delete?

[Code Monkey]

In a never ending quest for weight reduction and simplification I wonder how hard it would be to remove the evap system.

Here is a diagram of the evap system on the fuel tank side:



I was thinking about yanking #3 (charcoal canister) and #4 (evap system leak detection pump) and leaving the air filter like this:



On the engine side, I would remove the purge solenoid valve and the line that goes to the intake manifold and plug the hole. Hopefully I can disable whatever codes pop out with the AP.

Doable?

[ispypsi]

Have done it on past cars. Pulled a good 5-7 lbs off my 240sx years ago ripping out the various sensors and giant charcoal canister. Make sure you check the level of the open hose so that it has no ability to leak out any fuel, I had to tuck one up in a hole in the frame, and that worked well. It never really smelled like gas either and it was just open ended - still is actually.

Definitely will need the AP because I can only imagine the slew of codes you'll get. I got 4-5 and that was from 1997 levels of OBD2 technology.

Edit - ps you loaded the fuel tank diagram twice. Would like to see the engine side diagram for giggles.

[Code Monkey]

I posted two pictures to clearly show the before and after.

On the engine side, there is nothing special going on, just remove #1 and #2 , and cap the IM with something. I think a vacuum cap with a ziptie should do, this is what I have on the TB.

[motherfnmonsta]

only issue I see is passing state inspections from a visual stand point if the tech is actually paying attention. Also not sure in your state how many not readys montitors you are allowed to have either. In NC we are only allowed one not ready so gotta pick your poison.

My next concern is you will still need a form of venting for the fuel tank to allow pressure out of the tank so that it will not possible go boom boom or something else.

[Code Monkey]

It is a racecar so 0 fucks given about engine codes, etc. There are no visual or OBDII inspections where I live, and in a year or two I will most likely take the car off the streets anyway. The tank would still be vented via the stock air filter where I drew the red line.

[Justin@Freektune]

Definitely doable as long as the tank still has some sort of vent. Which it will. So you will be good. And yes we can delete every code associated with te evap system

[Code Monkey]

Ok, it is done.

The proposed routing above is not possible without dropping the tank so I did it this way:



The 1/2" (?) part is on the right side next to the diff and behind the axle and is a bitch to get to. There was no space to reach and clamp that green pain in the ass quick release connector so I just obliterated it (bottom of picture below). The hardline on that side is, I think, 1/2" -- I only had a 5/8" hose and a 5/8" to 3/4" heater hose adapter so I used them (top of picture below). The hardline you will connect to has no bead on the very edge, only like 3/4" down (for that green connector to hook) -- so I slid the 5/8" hose as far as I could so it went beyond the bead and put a constant pressure clamp hopefully right on the bead.



The rest was simple, I ran a 3/4" heater hose from the hose adapter all the way to the air filter, clamps everywhere.





Here is all the shit I pulled out, although the two brackets under the charcoal canister and the plastic shields went back in. I put electrical tape on the electrical connector and the thin evap line that runs all the way into the engine bay.



I kept the brackets for now as I thought I could have a water-meth pump installed under the spare tire space, but looking at how dusty shit gets there I will be ripping the spare tire "inverted cup" piece out (could not remove it today, shit is spot welded) and we will weld a flat piece of metal there -- I am taking here about the stuff inside the trunk.

On the engine bay side, I removed the purge solenoid valve and hose and capped the line with vacuum caps.



This is how I have it on the IM now (with the loose end cut out), I have no idea if the cap will pop off at +20 psi of boost, the ones I have on the throttle body never gave me problems, I guess I will have to try it to see if it works.



Last but not least, I got a P0443 code which I promptly disabled in the AP.

For the record, the charcoal canister, evap system leak detection pump, and all the hoses I pulled on both the engine and rear side weigh 7 lbs.

[Voltwings]

Rafal, assuming you mean the section on the throttle body i have circled here, No pressure actually goes through that, its just a water jacket to heat up the air to aid cold start. However, in messing around with OCC set ups, we have capped off the main 5/8" bung on the front side of the manifold with a Vacuum cap and zip tie and not had any issues thus far. I imagine you will be fine as long as you got that zip tie snug on there.

[Code Monkey]

Originally Posted by Voltwings Rafal, assuming you mean the section on the throttle body i have circled here, No pressure actually goes through that, its just a water jacket to heat up the air to aid cold start. However, in messing around with OCC set ups, we have capped off the main 5/8" bung on the front side of the manifold with a Vacuum cap and zip tie and not had any issues thus far. I imagine you will be fine as long as you got that zip tie snug on there.

Yeah, that's what I meant. When I get my new radiator, hopefully in the next 2 weeks, the front end will come out and I will tighten the zip tie as much as I can, now it is tight but I suspect it could be tighter, it is a pain to reach there.

[Downmented]

So @Code Monkey; I dont know if this is your most recent weight reduction project, but without the approximate weight of your cage, what would be your rough guesstimate of the current weight of the vehicle, as well as total weight lost thus far?

[Code Monkey]

Originally Posted by Downmented So @Code Monkey; I dont know if this is your most recent weight reduction project, but without the approximate weight of your cage, what would be your rough guesstimate of the current weight of the vehicle, as well as total weight lost thus far?

Look at this post, assuming the 3,252 is correct, we have

 . di 3252-7-161
3084

with a full tank of gas. The 161 is from here -- weight of cage and spreader plates but not seat brackets. If you were running only one seat, subtract another 25 lbs or so.

Total weight lost so far would be then

. di 3589-3084
505

You can bring that 3,084 below 3,000 for sure.

[Downmented]

Where would you say the largest loss of weight came from?

[Mazdazilla6]

Have you looked into lighter crash bars?

[Mauro_Penguin]

Very nice job! Not just the weight reduction, but one step closer towards simplifying the car!

[derek13p]

This inspired an idea for my build today, thank you!

[Code Monkey]

Originally Posted by derek13p This inspired an idea for my build today, thank you!

I got the car re-fueled first time today since I pulled the evap system, the tank is still vented so no problems with pumping gas in.

[Code Monkey]

Originally Posted by Code Monkey I have no idea if the cap will pop off at +20 psi of boost...

Originally Posted by Voltwings I imagine you will be fine as long as you got that zip tie snug on there.

Just to update, a ziptied rubber cap on the IM will not work in the long run. The rubber will crack sooner or later from boost. Use JBWeld or some other permanent solution.

[aviator79]

So im sure you get the EVAP not ready from this right? No CEL but never comes ready.

[Code Monkey]

You will get a CEL, I just turned it off with the AP.

And here's the latest picture of the IM, I had the shop remove the whole evap fitting, tap, and plug the hole.

[Tazilla]

Originally Posted by Code Monkey Ok, it is done. The proposed routing above is not possible without dropping the tank so I did it this way: The 1/2" (?) part is on the right side next to the diff and behind the axle and is a bitch to get to. There was no space to reach and clamp that green pain in the ass quick release connector so I just obliterated it (bottom of picture below). The hardline on that side is, I think, 1/2" -- I only had a 5/8" hose and a 5/8" to 3/4" heater hose adapter so I used them (top of picture below). The hardline you will connect to has no bead on the very edge, only like 3/4" down (for that green connector to hook) -- so I slid the 5/8" hose as far as I could so it went beyond the bead and put a constant pressure clamp hopefully right on the bead. The rest was simple, I ran a 3/4" heater hose from the hose adapter all the way to the air filter, clamps everywhere. Here is all the shit I pulled out, although the two brackets under the charcoal canister and the plastic shields went back in. I put electrical tape on the electrical connector and the thin evap line that runs all the way into the engine bay. I kept the brackets for now as I thought I could have a water-meth pump installed under the spare tire space, but looking at how dusty shit gets there I will be ripping the spare tire "inverted cup" piece out (could not remove it today, shit is spot welded) and we will weld a flat piece of metal there -- I am taking here about the stuff inside the trunk. On the engine bay side, I removed the purge solenoid valve and hose and capped the line with vacuum caps. This is how I have it on the IM now (with the loose end cut out), I have no idea if the cap will pop off at +20 psi of boost, the ones I have on the throttle body never gave me problems, I guess I will have to try it to see if it works. Last but not least, I got a P0443 code which I promptly disabled in the AP. For the record, the charcoal canister, evap system leak detection pump, and all the hoses I pulled on both the engine and rear side weigh 7 lbs.

I have a Mazda 6 2.3 does anyone know if i could use the same instructions? I want to get rid of the evap system, the pump is bad, keeps popping fuses so instead of replacing i want to remove the system. I removed the pump and just plugged the two hoses but i don't have any power what so ever if i go up a steep hill i would be in trouble.

[rgurleyjr]

Pretty sure an evap issue will not cause a lack of engine power at all. Like it has nothing to do with it.

Not sure, I am having evap problems on my 08 speed 3 and the canister and pump are behind the rear subframe. And I ain't messing with that anytime soon.

[Code Monkey]