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 Old 10-25-2012, 09:01 AM   #1
 
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Default Engine coolant

I know mazda uses some funky coolant..
can you mix it with other brands ? or does ALL mazda the coolant need to be flushed out ? before adding normal stuff...
116k miles on my speed on stock coolant.
any option other than the mazda coolant .
I know ford has a coolant that basically the same as mazdas......
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 Old 10-25-2012, 09:11 AM   #2
 
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We use fl 22, Google its compatibility, I'm on my phone or I'd help more.
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 Old 10-25-2012, 09:12 AM   #3
 
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Mazda FL-22 Coolant Information - Mazda3Forums.com

tl/dr

go to http://ricartmazdaparts.com/

put in 0000-77-508E-20 in the parts search box and select mazda

and there you go
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 Old 10-25-2012, 09:17 AM   #4
 
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Just make sure you use the right ratio on anything you use.
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 Old 10-25-2012, 09:21 AM   #5
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John, if you need FL-22, i have like 3 jugs of it. you only need about 1 1/2 to fill your car up. let me know.
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 Old 10-25-2012, 09:23 AM   #6
 
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You haz FL22 badge on coolant tank?

If not does it get hot?

if so Engine Ice High Performance Coolant - 64oz. 1/2 GAL
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 Old 10-25-2012, 09:36 AM   #7
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Prestone pre-mix and done. Got it on sale. It's great stuff for the lazy.
mikie likes this.
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 Old 10-25-2012, 09:41 AM   #8
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From @TiGraySpeed6 on the mazda6club forums
MS6 Fluid Notes & DIY Pictures - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum

> Coolant
'06 MS6 Manual - 8.5 us qts (2.25 us gallons)
Type- Mazda FL22
Mazda OEM - part# 0000-77-508E-20
Ford Specialty Green Coolant - Motorcraft part # VC-10-A or VC-10-A2 - $27.59 gallon 50/50 mix
Zerex Asian Vehicle Coolant - NAPA Part # ZRX 675130 - $13.99 gallon of 50/50 mix



It seems that only Mazda has coolant called "FL22"
- - Well, OK then, just WTF is FL22, and is this going to be a PITA?

Some clarity, compliments of the BobIsTheOilGuy forums, and a poster named ponderosaTX:
"...Mazda automotive coolants are green but they have almost NOTHING in common with conventional North American green coolant. Prior to the 2005 model year, Mazdas were equipped with a first generation P-OAT (phosphated organic acid technology) coolant developed and manufactured by CCI, the leading Japanese coolant company. P-OAT coolants rely on a combination of phosphates and organic acids to prevent corrosion; they contain no silicates or borates. In the 2005 model year, Mazda started using a second generation P-OAT coolant which has a lower concentration of phosphates and an improved organic acid additive package. The other major Japanese auto manufacturers, namely Toyota, Honda, and Nissan all use essentially the same coolant technology.

The only aftermarket P-OAT coolants are Japanese OEM coolants from Mazda, Toyota, Honda, and Nissan, Zerex Asian Vehicle coolant, and Motorcraft Specialty Green Engine Coolant (which reportedly is identical to the second generation Mazda FL22 OEM P-OAT coolant). For the record, Ford started using Japanese P-OAT coolant technology in many of its 2009 models (those sharing engine technology with Mazda) instead of G-05. Ford evidently found the performance of Japanese P-OAT coolants was superior to G-05 in Mazda engineered engines.

Using conventional North American green coolant in a Mazda is a bad idea. Even German (BASF) coolant technology as embodied in G-05, which contains silicates and no phosphates, is a much better choice than conventional North American green for vehicles with aluminum blocks and aluminum radiators. But a genuine P-OAT coolant, particularly a second generation P-OAT coolant like Mazda FL22 or Motorcraft Specialty Green, is the best choice."


It now looks like Ford Specialty Green Coolant may be the cost-effective alternative to Mazda FL22. Zerex Asian Vehicle Coolant is another option.

Originally Posted by IHeartGroceries
Just got off the phone with the Ford house.
Their Mazda equivalent fluid is now identified as VC10A2.
It was priced 27.59/gal...
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 Old 10-25-2012, 11:34 AM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by Raider View Post
Prestone pre-mix and done. Got it on sale. It's great stuff for the lazy.
hahaha thats what i did, engine is an engine, coolant is a coolant

Originally Posted by jracer View Post
so does coolant ever wear out ?? not cool as well as new coolant ?
so i guess if i just drain it ALL out and flush it a few times i should be good adding Prestone or some other normal coolant ..
yes, just like engine oil, it gets dirty over time and loses its effectiveness
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 Old 10-25-2012, 09:59 AM   #10
 
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so does coolant ever wear out ?? not cool as well as new coolant ?
so i guess if i just drain it ALL out and flush it a few times i should be good adding Prestone or some other normal coolant ..
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 Old 10-25-2012, 11:34 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by jracer View Post
so does coolant ever wear out ?? not cool as well as new coolant ?
so i guess if i just drain it ALL out and flush it a few times i should be good adding Prestone or some other normal coolant ..
Yeah it does, but it really does seem to last for a while. The first time I "inadvertently" drained my coolant a year ago it came out looking pretty much the same as the stuff I had in there, HOWEVER I used to have my ECTs constantly at 180ish. never ever got it any lower.

After i put brand new fluid in, i can get it down to 169 on a cold day, mid 170's in the evening with 70ish degree weather on the interstate cruising at 60-75 mph 6th gear.

Those few degrees Fahrenheit may not sound like much, but it's proof there is a difference.
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 Old 10-25-2012, 11:42 AM   #12
 
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Thanks @p057 - that one is here on MSF too -
MS6 Fluid Notes & DIY Pictures

Coolant does/can wear out- that is the protective additives will lose their effectiveness.

The big trick, really, is how the coolant's additive package behaves with an all aluminum engine over an extended period of time. Bad reactions can cause build up and block passages or not properly lubricate bits like the coolant impeller, or even cause the thermostat to seize open or closed.

Mazda blocks work well with Zerex Asian Vehicle Coolant. 50/50 mix jugs available at the local parts joint for about $13 a gallon, you need 2 of em. Distilled water for any balance needed. Remember to set heater as hot as it'll go to cycle that core too.

Winter at least 50/50.
Summer a lot of folks run a jug of 50/50, and the rest distilled water- plain water cools the best.
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 Old 10-25-2012, 12:00 PM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by jracer View Post
so does coolant ever wear out ?? not cool as well as new coolant ?
so i guess if i just drain it ALL out and flush it a few times i should be good adding Prestone or some other normal coolant ..
It doesn't really get "dirty"; it becomes acidic over time and will corrode metal parts it contacts. The new 'long life' coolants like FL22 are designed to be more stable for longer.

I didn't read closely through the thread, so I apologize if it has already been said, but FL22 comes premixed and should not be diluted.


Tapadatass

Also, straight distiller water is very corrosive and will quickly eat away at the Aluminum block. Part of the additives in antifreeze are chemicals to reduce the reactivity of water.


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 Old 10-25-2012, 12:52 PM   #14
 
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Shouldn't need to do a coolant flush until about 30k miles BTW. Along with that manual flush. Do them both at the same time so its easier to remember for the next service/time.
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 Old 10-25-2012, 12:53 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by itg3rl View Post
Shouldn't need to do a coolant flush until about 30k miles BTW. Along with that manual flush. Do them both at the same time so its easier to remember for the next service/time.
jracer has an 07 ms6 at 110k+ miles, it's a bit overdue for him.
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 Old 10-25-2012, 12:58 PM   #16
 
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Originally Posted by p057 View Post
jracer has an 07 ms6 at 110k+ miles, it's a bit overdue for him.
Oh shit! I had tea in my mouth when I read that, bout spit it out.

Just a wee bit overdue is right.
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 Old 10-25-2012, 01:46 PM   #17
 
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Originally Posted by itg3rl View Post
Shouldn't need to do a coolant flush until about 30k miles BTW. Along with that manual flush. Do them both at the same time so its easier to remember for the next service/time.
FL22 requires replacement at 100K miles if I remember correctly.


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 Old 10-25-2012, 04:13 PM   #18
 
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Noted. Still overdue regardless.
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 Old 10-25-2012, 06:47 PM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by silvapain View Post
FL22 requires replacement at 100K miles if I remember correctly.


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None of my engines last long enough for a flush...
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 Old 10-25-2012, 06:39 PM   #20
 
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80% Steam Distilled water(70 cents a gallon @ Walmart), a bottle of water wetter and topped off with 50/50

Runs cooler, cools quiker

Just make sure the bottle says no minerals added on it
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 Old 10-25-2012, 06:41 PM   #21
 
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Yea, Fl-22 is good for about 100k.

I flushed it when i bought my car this january just because i didn't know. I'm at 55k miles.

the fl-22 is premixed and is not cheap. about $30 a gallon!

Based on what TI said, I went with mazda's shit instead of anything else.
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 Old 10-25-2012, 06:43 PM   #22
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Our cars are not good with water wetter. I've read 2 cases here it ended in head gasket issues.
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 Old 10-25-2012, 07:16 PM   #23
 
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Originally Posted by Raider View Post
Our cars are not good with water wetter. I've read 2 cases here it ended in head gasket issues.
i tired water wetter and it stains the hell out of the overflow tank and when i replaced a hose it had residue left inside ... never going to use it again, 70%distilled/30% coolant is what im using now ...
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 Old 10-25-2012, 08:38 PM   #24
 
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WW was designed to be used with little to no coolant, which is why it's used at tracks when antifreeze is not allowed. They make a version for mixing with greater than 33% coolant blends labelled for diesel use.

look it up on redline's site, and references all over, including the bobistheoilguy site
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 Old 10-26-2012, 12:46 PM   #25
 
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i remember seeing on the bottle that it said you can add it to your existing coolant and being that majority of people will have a 50/50 mix, that shouldn't have been an issue.
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 Old 10-26-2012, 01:05 PM   #26
 
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Below is just one of many similar bits that are out there.


Running just Redline Water Wetter and H20 summer - Bob Is The Oil Guy

Redline Water Wetter was designed for use in pure water cooling systems, as required by racing applications.
Coolant, when spilled onto a track, causes a slippery condition.....not good for drive fast turn left applications.
If you read the chart on the bottle, it shows a major increase in temperature transfer between the water and metal in the water only application.
The same chart shows a slight improvement when used with coolant.
Unless you are running beyond the capacity of your cooling system (design or some problem that has developed), you will not see your motor running cooler with/without this product as the thermostat will regulate the coolant temperature.
Actual head temperature might differ, but that would take some advanced measuring that is not built into passenger vehicles (temperature monitoring is of coolant temperature).

I recall reading the Redline indicated that the stuff you see separate out of the Redline Water Wetter in systems with coolant is not harmful to the system....and will re-mix when the coolant gets hot.
What we tend to see is this stuff that separates out.....building up in the overflow bottle.....and it does look nasty.

At the same time I read this (someplace on THIS website) the recommendation to avoid this separation was to use the Water Wetter that is for Diesel engines.....as it is designed to be used in coolant, not pure water.
The Diesel Water Wetter was purple in color.......and harder to locate.

However, my advice would be to contact Redline through their website and see what they have to say.
They seem to be very responsive to questions and they would be a better source of information than I am.
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 Old 10-26-2012, 07:09 PM   #27
 
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Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 View Post
Below is just one of many similar bits that are out there.


Running just Redline Water Wetter and H20 summer - Bob Is The Oil Guy
good info, that is exactly what happened with me
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 Old 07-31-2015, 10:01 AM   #28
 
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Default Zerex coolant and FL-22 coolant compatibility

For whatever its worth, I asked ZEREZ customer support, and they stated:

"...thank you for contacting Zerex Product Support. Valvoline would recommend Valvoline Maxlife Anti-freeze/Coolant, Zerex Asian Vehicle Anti-freeze/Coolant or Zerex Dex-Cool Anti-freeze/Coolant. All are compatible with your 2007 Mazda 3."

Then I asked "Are any of your coolants Type FL-22 compatible?" and the answer was:

"Thank you for contacting Zerex Product Support. Unfortunately, we do not rate our products against other product, rather we rate them based on the OEM specifications of the vehicle which the previously mentioned meet for your 2007 Mazda 3."

"The 2007 Mazda Speed3 & 3 have the same OEM Coolant specification. If FL-22 is the OEM recommendation for this vehicle and Valvoline Maxlife Anti-freeze/Coolant, Zerex Asian Vehicle Anti-freeze/Coolant or Zerex Dex-Cool Anti-freeze/Coolant all meet the OEM specification for your vehicle, then they would have to be compatible."

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 Old 07-31-2015, 01:37 PM   #29
 
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Default PRE-MIXED LONG-LIFE "FL22" ENGINE COOLANT Service Bulletin






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 Old 11-06-2019, 08:12 AM   #30
 
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According to Mazda parts counter (Dan at Ourisman Mazda in MD) any Speed3 produced *after* December 17, 2007 uses FL-22. Before that it *does *not use FL22. AllData contradicts this, and states I need FL-22.

AllData isnt incorrect but there is a caveat. As per the TSB 01-033/07 in the above post, you CAN use FL-22 on older Speed3 but dont mix it with orange coolant because it will turn black.

Dan sent me this Mazda Fluids Chart updated March 16 2019 is as follows:



Pentonsin PENTOFROST A2 (GREEN) Antifreeze Specially Formulated For Asian Vehicles — CONCENTRATE- HOAT technology but does not have FL-22 according to the rep I spoke to at PENTOSIN but it does cross reference with Mazda 0000-77-501E-02.

http://www.pentosin.net/specsheets/Pentofrost_A2.pdf

Pentofrost A3 (BLUE) does have FL-22, according to the same guy at Pentosin but is only available in 50/50 mix but does NOT cross reference with Mazda 0000-77-501E-02 (confusing).

http://www.pentosin.net/specsheets/Pentofrost_A3.pdf

I had little trust in the expertise of the guy at Pentosin...he knew nothing about what FL-22 specs included, only that MAZDA had no cut off date for the need to use FL-22 or not. He was wrong about the cut off date.

Pentofrost A1 (RED) is FOR ASIAN vehicles, CONCENTRATED, HOAT technology but isnt listed for MAZDA.

http://www.pentosin.net/specsheets/Pentofrost_A1.pdf

An inexpensive FL-22 coolant CONCENTRATE is RAVENOL J4D2092 Coolant Antifreeze - HJC Hybrid Japanese Coolant Protect FL22 Concentrate (5 Liter. $27 on Amazon.

Last edited by Lex2007; 11-07-2019 at 08:16 AM.
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