Corksport Endlink CLUNKING NOISE

[Nliiitend1]

There is no reason that it shouldn't be, but I've never had a set of Bilsteins in my hands that I could measure...

[grantmm]

Just take them off and drive around for a few miles or a day. Easy. If the noise goes away then it's related to the sway bar setup.

[Atomic41]

I'm thinking is my Hotchkis swaybar bushing that make this noise. I read a lot and I'm not alone. Does someone has this problem of noise with his hotchkis bushing ?

Is it normal ? I install them this winter ...

[Bob-o]

@Atomic41

I just did my bilsteins too, and i has the same clunk you have!

Mazdaspeed 3 Clunk - YouTube

Mazdaspeed 3 Clunk - YouTube

PS: That squeak you hear is my foot on the clutch. Wet shoes FTL

[Atomic41]

Do you have an idea where it comes ?

But you don't have aftermarket sway bar and endlink like me ... you're on stock ?

[Bob-o]

Yea stock sway bar and endlinks. I think it's just a matter of making sure everything is tightened down. They seem to back off their threads, so you've gotta make a point to batten it down.

I'm 99% sure its coming from my RSB, or rear endlinks. I'll tighten them down this weekend when i have time lol

[Atomic41]

Originally Posted by Bob-o Yea stock sway bar and endlinks. I think it's just a matter of making sure everything is tightened down. They seem to back off their threads, so you've gotta make a point to batten it down. I'm 99% sure its coming from my RSB, or rear endlinks. I'll tighten them down this weekend when i have time lol

So for you ... the noise came from behind not like me.

[Bob-o]

Ohh. Your's is coming from the front?

[Atomic41]

Originally Posted by Bob-o Ohh. Your's is coming from the front?

Yep !

[Atomic41]

I think I will change for other brand for my front endlink ... must I go back for stock one or Powergrid or Whiteline ?

Thanks to give me your impression

[Atomic41]

Originally Posted by Atomic41 I think I will change for other brand for my front endlink ... must I go back for stock one or Powergrid or Whiteline ? Thanks to give me your impression

Any suggestions ?

[Nliiitend1]

You should be fine using OEM enlinks with your modest drop.

[Atomic41]

I reinstall the stock endlink and the noise was there again but very less than with the Corksport one.

But I don't able to work with a lift and my stock endlink weren't so tight so I think my problem is from the corksport endlink. So I think I will go with the powergrid.

WHat do you think about that ?

[Nliiitend1]

You can get new OEMs for much less than Powergrids, and you don't really need the adjustability of the Powergrids, but it's your money...

[Atomic41]

What length of endlink do I need with my setup (bilstein b8 + eibach pro kit) ?

Shorter or longer than my oem endlink ...

[Nliiitend1]

If anything, you'd want endlinks that are longer by the same amount that your static ride height changed from OEM, but again, OEM length shouldn't cause any problems.

[Atomic41]

So if eibach drop 0.8" (in front for pro kit). Maybe it will be good to pick endlink of 13" (average) of length

[Atomic41]

can someone confirm ?

[warlord]

Yes, if your dropped .8" in the front you want to use 12.8" front endlinks.

[Nliiitend1]

Unless of course that puts them into the top of the lower control arm (which will happen once the links get too long - of course I can't confirm that the setup you're suggesting will do this, but it's something you have to factor in)...

AGAIN, with the modest drop that the Eibach springs give you, there isn't any reason that the OEM links should cause you any problems...

[warlord]

Maximum length for genpu endinks is 13.5". After that they become too long and hit the LAC when the suspension is at full drop such as when doing a tire rotation. Been there done that when I had my other Mazda. So even if your dropped lower it's probably best to go no more than 13.25" and leave a bit of room. I found that on the Genpu the sway bar starts to bind/preload once you move it more than .5" from parallel to the ground. At .8" it's not really that tight but at 1.25" it's tight enough that it's interfering with how the front springs and sway are working. I know when I installed my Powergrids it lightened up initial turn in measurably. Didn't have to fight the car to do quick lane changes.

[Atomic41]

To measure the good length do I process like this :

I need to remove my wheel, remove the stock endlink, reinstall my wheel put the car on the ground. Go under and measure center to center the hole in the sway bar and the hole on the shock.

[Atomic41]

Do I really need to go under my car to measure or just keep in mind that stock endlink is 12" and if I drop my speed with eibach pro kit average 1" lower. I will be fine with new 13" endlink length ?

[warlord]

Originally Posted by Atomic41 just keep in mind that stock endlink is 12" and if I drop my speed with eibach pro kit average 1" lower. I will be fine with new 13" endlink length ?

Yes to this. If your not going to put your car on blocks, sandbag the driver seat and go for exactly zero preload then close is good enough. Powergrid endlinks also have .5" adjustability so your covered from 12.75'-13.25" c-c. He even overthreads the adjusting rods so you can actually shorten them to 12.5" just in case your sway is warped slightly. Most are. Call Chip at Powergrid and he'll hook you up with the proper size adjusting rods. I believe he sells the rods in mm not inches so you should call him to make sure you get exactly what you need. I believe all the endlinks he sells are for 10mm bolt holes on the strut bracket and the swaybar ends. I'm assuming that's the size you need too. I hope this solves your problem and your not just blowing $150+ on something you don't need. GL.

[Atomic41]

Originally Posted by warlord Yes to this. If your not going to put your car on blocks, sandbag the driver seat and go for exactly zero preload then close is good enough. Powergrid endlinks also have .5" adjustability so your covered from 12.75'-13.25" c-c. He even overthreads the adjusting rods so you can actually shorten them to 12.5" just in case your sway is warped slightly. Most are. Call Chip at Powergrid and he'll hook you up with the proper size adjusting rods. I believe he sells the rods in mm not inches so you should call him to make sure you get exactly what you need. I believe all the endlinks he sells are for 10mm bolt holes on the strut bracket and the swaybar ends. I'm assuming that's the size you need too. I hope this solves your problem and your not just blowing $150+ on something you don't need. GL.

So you have Powergrid endlink on your speed3 ? Perfect product and build to tough ?

[Atomic41]

Must I buy these (PowerGrid endlink for 172$ shipped) or OEM endlink (for 80$) ?

If you think I have bilstein B8 + Eibach pro kit

[warlord]

Powergrid are a good product. You have a modest drop so the problem you have isn't that your endlinks are too short. I'd check that your front swaybar bushings are ok and also that the ends of you stock endlinks rotate freely.

[Atomic41]

So I must keep my OEM endlink if I can ...

[Nliiitend1]

Which I think I've said in several posts already in this very thread...

[Atomic41]

Originally Posted by Nliiitend1 Which I think I've said in several posts already in this very thread...

Which suspension setup do you drive ?

[warlord]

I was on Swift springs. I'm now on Raceland coilovers. Not really feelin the Receland (too soft) so I'll be moving on to either H&R or KWv1 coilovers when funds allow.

[Atomic41]

Originally Posted by warlord Powergrid are a good product. You have a modest drop so the problem you have isn't that your endlinks are too short. I'd check that your front swaybar bushings are ok and also that the ends of you stock endlinks rotate freely.

If you're me you will keep the oem or buy the pwergrid ???

[Nliiitend1]

Originally Posted by Atomic41 Which suspension setup do you drive ?

What does that have to do with anything? My recommendations have all been based on what YOU have, not what I have...

I am on Mazdaspeed Coilovers.

[warlord]

Originally Posted by Atomic41 If you're me you will keep the oem or buy the pwergrid ???

Keep the oem but make sure they are good. The ball joints on the ends should rotate freely.

[Atomic41]

Thanks for your help guys.

Warlord and Nliiitend1

[Atomic41]

So I'm now on oem endlink and I will see if everything is fine next day.

The noise is gone ! My oem are now FULL TIGHT without noise

[need4zoom]

My OEM rear end links were making a lotta noise in my 07 speed3 at 80k. I got Corcksport end links and had a certified technician put 'em in legit. The noise was gone--for about a month or so and came back. I had a mechanic look at 'em and they failed.
Corcksport dose NOT stand by their product. I talked with them on the phone and they're pretty much like, "tough to be you"
At first, they were gonna send replacements but then went back on their word and no-go... just getting a refund. I do NOT recommend Corsksport at all.
I have ordered OEM rear end links and I anticipate that everything will be fine...I hope.

[need4zoom]

...and yours is the first reply and couldn't be more rude. wow.
I wrote about my experience with Corksport product and also the follow up with them...just shared it--how it happened. If they stood by their product and did well by me, or if their product actually worked, I'd be singin their praises.

[Say Chi Sin Lo]

Originally Posted by need4zoom ...and yours is the first reply and couldn't be more rude. wow. I wrote about my experience with Corksport product and also the follow up with them...just shared it--how it happened. If they stood by their product and did well by me, or if their product actually worked, I'd be singin their praises.

There are more civilized ways to express a negative experience, that's what the other poster was saying.

[Domino81]

And there are ways to respond like an adult. Post deleted.