Can anyone guess what showed up on my doorstep this morning?

[TheNewGuy]

So, after about 2 and a half weeks of waiting while SUMark sorted out all the BS that went down with ATP's "Hiatus Woman" this little bastard shows up at my door at 8 this morning:

IMAG0234.jpg

IMAG0233.jpg

IMAG0231.jpg

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I hope to have it in by the end of the day and possibly tuned by the end of the week

but i also earlier had a plan to put this stray 20g turbo i found for like 200 bucks in as a custom turbo setup. needless to say i decided 3 grand for a simple 20g was a waste and therefore i ordered the 3076. But this pic just goes to show that i made the right decision

IMAG0236.jpg




ill keep it updated on the build because i'm also putting in Quik6's custom fmic with it and then later doing fuel pump and grounding system and cp-e flashes and all that good stuff

as for now the killed k04 is coming out and this guy going in on like 18 pounds until i can get the rest of the above mentioned junk

-grant

[speedms6]

congrats, hope you enjoy this, once funds become available, im hoping to one day go BT, i'm interested in your install etc.. give lots of details and problems that may have arose

[TheNewGuy]

i shall. but check out lenny's thread on it he gives a good write up http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...ver-too-63559/

[Scribbles]

Good luck man, i plan on doing my BT this month too. Let us know how your install goes and take tons of pics

[MarkyMark]

glad that got sorted out

[dooderek]

godamn, marks customer service is top fucking notch

[Mimi07CX7]

Originally Posted by dooderek godamn, marks customer service is top fucking notch

Nice! I would love to put that in my CX7!

[TheNewGuy]

Originally Posted by dooderek godamn, marks customer service is top fucking notch

easily the best i've had.

[TheNewGuy]

Alright, so what we did was get to work...and take minimal pictures because i totally forgot.
**side note: ATP: "bolt up" my ass this shit is too big haha

i will however give our steps in list order


1. take off intercooler (2 worm clamps w/ 10mm head, 3 12mm screws holding IC on, 2 10mm screws holding IC Cover on)

2. Unbolt Manifold from the motor (10 14mm bolts)

3. Unbolt Downpipe from turbo (5 14mm bolts)
-you might need to pull the ducting from around the alternator to get tools in there easier
- IMAG0243.jpg it should just slide down out of the way if you pull off the test pipe/cat as well


4. Unbolt turbo from manifold (4 14mm bolts)
- its pretty easy to pull the heat shield around the back side of the turbo there are 3 8mm bolts holding it on just like all other heat shields and itll make it easier to get to the 4 bolts on top.

5. loosen mounting bracket on lower passenger side of the turbo (i think 17mm bolt)

6. Try to start to unbolt oil return line (i'm pretty sure its 2 8mm bolts) on the direct underside of the turbo

7. Drain the coolant. expect it to leak everywhere even after you drain it however.

8. Finish unbolting the water lines from the turbo (on either side of the center cartridge) with two 17mm (iirc).

9. Yank the shit-stain of a k04 towards the passenger side of the car to get tools below it to undo the bracket bolts there (i cannot remember bolt size sorry)

10. take a piss on the k04 as you triumphantly discard it
- Also don't forget to take classic turbo comparison pictures
IMAG0237.jpg

IMAG0238.jpg (the inlet on the k04 is the same exact size as the outlet on the 30r)

IMAG0241.jpg (it could fit in the palm of your hand)

11. Begin to prep the BT:
- Spray every gasket you will use and every flange with copper spray after you sand them down some

IMAG0244.jpg just showing one flange and how it should look

- pull off the oil return line and cut the straight metal section out of it with the flex section out and replace it with a rubber hosing and use rtv between the hose and metal pipe then clamp around it as well. From there you take the part that bolts to the block and reattach it then attach the turbo side to the turbo. put rtv on every gasket as well to help seal. then pull the coolant fitting that attaches to the front side of the center cartridge out of the rubber hose and bolt it to the turbo. from there drop the tubo into the gap where the shit should be and fasten in the oil return line and reinsert the coolant pipe/banjo into the rubber hose and clamp. from there attach new oil in lines because the banjo from the stock one didnt fit where the center cartridge is on mine due to a bolt from the turbine housing (so we made a new fitting and attached some nice braided steel lines) and bolt that onto the turbo then onto the motor. (we found that fitting the lines to the turbo and to the motor then wrestling with the piping was easier than wrestling with it while trying to bolt it on was much easier)

at this point this is where we stopped. overall time thus far: 2 hours to pull the stock turbo out and then a 4 hour break b/c i had work and chris (friend helping) had a doctors appointment and date with the woman. Then we got back to it and did the fmic install which took about 2.5 hours i will do a separate post tomorrow on that. And also tomorrow we will be finishing the turbo install and hopefully get this bitch running then ill tune on friday or saturday.

[dougefresh_]

Originally Posted by TheNewGuy 10. take a piss on the k04 as you triumphantly discard it

Lol. Great job man, congrats! Any updates?

[TheNewGuy]

Originally Posted by dougefresh_ Lol. Great job man, congrats! Any updates?

yeah updates are in the works as we speak haha we finished it thursday and had a minor coolant leak issue that we fixed last night so let me do the write up and such and ill get these posted up within the hour

[TheNewGuy]

K so i left off with us having the turbo, manifold, and battery pulled, the downpipe dropped down, the intercooler pitched, and the turbo with a large turd perched atop it.

(EDIT: Pics)

From here i did a custom FMIC kit including a CX-Racing (27X6X3 iirc) and some ebay universal piping kit. i pulled the bumper off and carved out the lowest row of filled in honeycomb holes in the front bumper thing...

from there i pulled the black fog light trim and then set it aside. from there i took a small hack saw and just cut small sections out of the housing for this black foglight trim in the bumper. i made sure to leave just enough for the clips to be able to snap in so the fog light trim would snap in and stay there. that gave me enough room to fit the IC piping behind the bumper and keep it hidden behind the trim.

from there i unbolted the crash bar from the car and took a plasma cutter to it, cutting a trapezoid shape out of the bottom section of it
IMAG0245.jpg
This allowed me to drill holes in the crash bar and hang some custom made hangers (courtesy of Quik6 from his custom kit i bought) while tucking the top of the front mount up into the crash bar and using another custom hanger to attach it to the bar.
IMAG0246.jpg
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The way this mounted was the three holes on top of the core were bolted to a flat bar that stretched across all three. there was some metal arms that stretched up to the top of the crash bar and then wrapped around flat on top of the bar. the two members coming from the 3 hole bar came together and bolted underneath the two-bolt mount that the radiator is attached to the crash bar with. pics will show better.
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After we got that shit in we pulled the windshield wiper fluid tank and pitched it. Since i work at a car wash i just jacked a bottle of window cleaner haha. Then we fit the piping in and that was that.

From here we ran into quite a bit of trouble: the turbo fitment

so right now we are at an empty hole behind the block and all gaskets copper-sprayed and all flanges sanded and sprayed. onto the steps:

12. unclip the coolant lines from the bracket that holds them against the firewall and unplug them from the heater core fittings jutting from the firewall. take the lower one and reroute it with a bit longer hose so that it no longer sits below where the compressor housing will sit. we didn't do this at first and just forced the coolant lines down as we force fit the turbo in the space so it would line up with the manifold and in doing so punctured the lines and resulted in a nice coolant leak.

13. Put the turbo into the space it should be in and attach all plumbing. Here we had to pull off the oil return line and cut the metal pipe with the flex section out, flare both ends, attach a nice silicone line, and clamp that shit up and bolt it to the motor. don't forget to put rtv sealant on both surfaces of the gasket to "glue" it to the flange before you bolt any part up (better safe than sorry, gaskets do fail sometimes and that copper spray can only help so much so why not take yet another precaution?) Once all lines are reattached check for pinches, kinks, holes, and other things of that nature.

14. Reattach the manifold to the studs but do not bolt it on. Put the nuts on the studs and leave them just about a quarter inch on so the manifold moves freely

15. by now you should have dropped the turbo in thru the larger gap on the passenger side of the bay between the manifold and the strut housing. Once its in pull the manifold up and slide the tubo under it. It's gonna take some forcing and jiggling and all that good shit to get it in there because its so effin big (thats what she said)

16. Once you get the turbo studs through the holes in the manifold you can tighten those fuckers up and then pull the downpipe back up and rebolt that. From there it gets tricky

17. Reattaching the mani is a bit harder because you have to use baby turns and stuff for many of the bolts but some are easy and in enough of a good place that you can get pneumatic tools in there and get those zipped on easier. i told you to put the nuts on before you put the turbo in because i didnt and it was god awful because i would drop a nut here and there and since they arent magnetic my shop magnet couldnt pick them up and digging around is never fun.

good job. turbo is in

pics coming soon as with the rest of the deets as soon as i figure out the best way to organize them so you can avoid the issues i ran into

[dougefresh_]

I didn't know you had qwik's fmic... I thought he sold it fully modded. Sounds like a lot of work. Looking fwd to pics!

[Qwik6]

Thats a huge terbo my friend. Good luck on the install.

[TheNewGuy]

quik thats a sick lookin vette haha thanks again for your kit the engine is loving the nice cool BAT's im sure ill make much more power with it on friday when i tune.

[TheNewGuy]

fmic install pics added...more to come

[Dash08]

A big bag of flaming shit?

Oh, it's car parts.

The bag of shit would have been funnier.

[TheNewGuy]

Originally Posted by Dash08 A big bag of flaming shit? Oh, it's car parts. The bag of shit would have been funnier.

ah yes a nice turd in a bag would have been prime at 8 in the morning haha

[Dash08]

Originally Posted by TheNewGuy ah yes a nice turd in a bag would have been prime at 8 in the morning haha

Only when you do it to someone else.

[TheNewGuy]

so due to the standback's inability to correct stock throttle mapping i made 360hp and 360tq so it looks like i'll be selling my standback and pnp harness for a standback but im happy with the power

[dougefresh_]

Originally Posted by TheNewGuy so due to the standback's inability to correct stock throttle mapping i made 360hp and 360tq so it looks like i'll be selling my standback and pnp harness for a standback but im happy with the power

Standbacks were the shit 8+ months ago when CPE had the "the wall" (load wall) flash that removed it. People w/ BT's and the AP were flat lining tq + hp. However, Cobb picked up its game 10 fold since then and are back on our platform 100%. No more wall, Load or boost tuning (choose your poison), permanent CEL defeats (egr del, etc.), and more.

When the the "wall" was here, and Cobb was lacking, things were looking SB for big power for sure. However, the SB has since fumbled, and Cobb picked up the ball in the end zone for a 100+ yard run back for the TD!!! Cobb is still running too... I think they're smoking weed at the McD's a mile from the stadium.

[IshiKage]

AP>>>SB

[TheNewGuy]

Originally Posted by 240mazspd3 AP>>>SB

only with the flashes which i don't have

[bmylez]

Why not just get the flashes, then? You'd have to start from scratch with AP.

[triplejumper18]

Originally Posted by bmylez Why not just get the flashes, then? You'd have to start from scratch with AP.

He'd need to retune anyhow and if he just sells the SB now and picks up the AP then he won't have to ship off his ECU to get the SB flashes for the price of the AP.

[TheNewGuy]

Originally Posted by triplejumper18 He'd need to retune anyhow and if he just sells the SB now and picks up the AP then he won't have to ship off his ECU to get the SB flashes for the price of the AP.

He'd need to retune anyhow and if he just sells the SB now and picks up the AP then he won't have to ship off his ECU to get the SB flashes for the price of the AP.

Exactly

and i am in the process of making some money to buy the accessport then once i do the standback and pnp will be for sale

[bmylez]

Well in zat caze, get deh AP.

[Mazdanspeed3]

sellin the 20g?

[TheNewGuy]

yeah for like 250 it is in no way bolt up and its never seen a car so i figured 250 would be nice

[TheNewGuy]

so i bought the accessport just now and itll be here soon in which case we will get to see how the mzr likes the boost and e85 combo.