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JAMES BARONE RACING JBR is a leading manufacturer of high-quality aftermarket parts for the Mazda community. We take pride in our reputation for providing the highest-quality performance products at the best values, and we back up that reputation with outstanding customer service and free shipping. We are committed to the Mazda platform and we actively partner with other members of the community in our selection, design, and testing of new products to make sure they meet their needs. We control every step in the engineering and fabrication process to ensure the highest standards of workmanship. The result is a line of products whose performance and reliability have been proven both on the street and on the track. Visit us at jamesbaroneracing.com


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 Old 04-28-2012, 01:27 PM   #41
 
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I want one


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 Old 04-28-2012, 04:10 PM   #42
 
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I need a second one. But I will be installing it in a somewhat weird location. I'm going to put it infront of my battery, and I might need some extra hose. Would that be doable?

Edit: I'm putting my 2nd occ there because my custome fmic gets in the way of a lot of stuff.
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 Old 04-28-2012, 04:13 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by radbrad View Post
I need a second one. But I will be installing it in a somewhat weird location. I'm going to put it infront of my battery, and I might need some extra hose. Would that be doable?

Edit: I'm putting my 2nd occ there because my custome fmic gets in the way of a lot of stuff.
PM when you're ready and I'll get you the extra hose.

Jamie
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 Old 04-28-2012, 06:43 PM   #44
 
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Stage 2 ordered. Hopefully this will make a difference with my knock problems (at the very least it'll take care of the ungodly mess I saw when I pulled my TB off)
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 Old 04-29-2012, 05:47 AM   #45
 
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Default Any drawbacks ?

Leaning heavily in buying a JBR OCC for my MS3 Gen2. Theres alot for OCC's on the market but seems like JBR's are top notch. This car is my daily driver so keeping it running well for along time is extremely important. Is there any drawbacks with a catch can? I assume this can only help.
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 Old 04-29-2012, 11:38 PM   #46
 
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i have 2 questions. hopefully neither of them sound too dumb:

1. not that it 'really' matters since this type of mod is apparently helping the longevity of the engine, but is installing an OCC going to have any affects on hp/tq?

2. what's the benefit of stage 2? er, perhaps reworded a little...what's the time when one says "well i have these mods so i better get stage 2 instead of stage 1"?

thanks for any info!
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 Old 04-30-2012, 07:51 AM   #47
 
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Originally Posted by Dubcnea View Post
i have 2 questions. hopefully neither of them sound too dumb:

1. not that it 'really' matters since this type of mod is apparently helping the longevity of the engine, but is installing an OCC going to have any affects on hp/tq?

2. what's the benefit of stage 2? er, perhaps reworded a little...what's the time when one says "well i have these mods so i better get stage 2 instead of stage 1"?

thanks for any info!
1. No. However, it will help keep the IM nice and clean, thus saving your intake valves from what would inevitably be going in there. Combined with an EGR Delete, you'll be saving them even more.

2. Stage 2 includes a check valve. It's a one-way valve to prevent anything from leaving the can and heading into your IM. It's a fail-safe.

That said, go with Stage 2.
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 Old 04-30-2012, 02:35 PM   #48
 
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thank you! i will do more research on the EGR delete as well.
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 Old 05-06-2012, 02:35 PM   #49
 
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Originally Posted by boostin08 View Post
-Weird thing tho, after install, cover plate back on and everything ready to go, turned key and no start!?! WTF!? No click no nothing... checked for codes with AP, nothing.. Disconneted battery, still nothing. Took cover plate off and inspected everything that i installed, nothing unplugged..No start.. Pulled hoses off OCC, turned key, fired up!? Put everything back together and starts fine everytime, everything back to normal.. Weird.... ??
im having this same problem but w/o the joy of the car starting.. i did egr delete, and coolent bypass as well realy impressed i have your rmm all your stuff is epic! now if i can only find y my car wont start..
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 Old 05-06-2012, 05:44 PM   #50
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Look in the area of the starter. None of those mods can result in the car not starting. The only thing possible is something got knocked loose. Most activity for the occ and the egr take place around the starter.
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 Old 05-07-2012, 01:06 PM   #51
 
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Originally Posted by jbarone View Post
Look in the area of the starter. None of those mods can result in the car not starting. The only thing possible is something got knocked loose. Most activity for the occ and the egr take place around the starter.
It was the neutral safty switch. I have no idea how it went out between me driving in the morning and after the install but it did.

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 Old 05-18-2012, 04:42 AM   #52
 
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So would the check valve relieve a PCV valve that could be sticking?? I think mine is starting to give up the ghost and if the stage 2 will keep me from having to buy mazdas shitty valve whenever they go bad, ill go that route.
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 Old 05-18-2012, 05:35 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by thatsmrgimp2u View Post
So would the check valve relieve a PCV valve that could be sticking?? I think mine is starting to give up the ghost and if the stage 2 will keep me from having to buy mazdas shitty valve whenever they go bad, ill go that route.
Absolutely! That is one of the most important reasons to have a GOOD quality check valve. You don't want to rely on the OEM or the addition of some universal CV picked up from Autozone or NAPA that is worse then OEM. Plus changing the stock one out when it does fail requires removing the whole intake manifold.
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 Old 05-27-2012, 04:30 PM   #54
 
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Ordered muh stage 2 yesterday! Super excited to know all that crud will finally end up somewhere other than my valves
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 Old 08-12-2012, 06:41 PM   #55
 
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Installed mine today, another great quality product from JBR. I can't wait to see what comes out of this thing in a few thousand miles or so.
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 Old 08-23-2012, 06:08 PM   #56
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Everything needed is include with this kit. Hoses, clamps, fittings, drain valve, check valve and the mounting bracket. Nothing to source, nothing extra to buy. Order, install, enjoy.
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 Old 11-22-2012, 09:31 AM   #57
 
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Any cutaway pics of the occ? I'm just curious as to what the internals of the can actually look like. I've done my research on different ways to set up an occ, trying to determine the best option and best can design
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 Old 11-22-2012, 09:54 AM   #58
 
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Any cutaway pics of the occ? I'm just curious as to what the internals of the can actually look like. I've done my research on different ways to set up an occ, trying to determine the best option and best can design
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 Old 11-22-2012, 10:37 AM   #59
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Originally Posted by anavrinIV View Post
Any cutaway pics of the occ? I'm just curious as to what the internals of the can actually look like. I've done my research on different ways to set up an occ, trying to determine the best option and best can design
There is no other OCC with 4 filter plates to separate out the oil than ours. No mesh to disintegrate, or anything to replace. It works and keeps on working. Explosion proof too.

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 Old 11-23-2012, 08:35 PM   #60
 
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My only quip with the can at all! is the drain location. Was there a reason other than worry of it getting hit on the bottom that you did not place it on the bottom to properly drain all sediment from the can?
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 Old 11-23-2012, 09:45 PM   #61
 
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Originally Posted by Stretcher View Post
My only quip with the can at all! is the drain location. Was there a reason other than worry of it getting hit on the bottom that you did not place it on the bottom to properly drain all sediment from the can?
eric
That is the only thing that has kept me from ordering one my self. The can is very similar to the Saikou Michi catch can I had on my truck. I do like the fact that JBR uses 4 plates instead of 3 like the Saikou Michi uses. Now if only there was an option for a bottom drain. All the other JBR parts I have seen are very well made, love my dog bone, so I have no doubt the OCC is also very well made and works great. I just wonder why the side drain location was chosen over the more traditional bottom location.
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 Old 11-24-2012, 10:17 AM   #62
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The drain was placed on the side to eliminate the chances for the drain to get ripped of if car bottoms out. This can be even more of an issue with lowered vehicles. Also depending on the angle of some parking lots and driveways the potential is also increased to rip the drain off. Side discharge is the way we ensure there are no issues that will leave you stranded. The can can also be rinsed out with some gas should you feel there is sediment build up; which I've not yet encountered.

Hope this helps. Oh and they are on sale for the next 2 days!!

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 Old 12-29-2012, 10:07 AM   #63
 
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Originally Posted by econman View Post
I did my OCC install today. It took me about 1.5 hours to do with about 30 minutes spent trying to get the hose off my PCV value. The clamp was slightly melted or glued to the hose, so it wasn't moving away from the valve - eventually I was able to keep the clamp open long enough to just slide the hose off the value.

Anyways I just had one question about the install. On the OCC, does the hose from the PCV valve go on the top outlet, or does the one from the intake go on the top? Based on what I read, the one from the PCV valve should go on the top outlet and that's how I installed it.

Here are some pictures of the final install - if there are any issues with what you see, please let me know
Originally Posted by jbarone View Post
You read right. Everything looks perfect. Good job!!
I was going to do the install today but the instructions state that the PCV hose should be installed on the bottom port of the OCC? Can someone clarify?

Also what is the difference between the instructions for OCC's recieved pe and post 12/25/12? I read both and couldn't figure it out unless I overlooked something.
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 Old 12-29-2012, 07:48 PM   #64
 
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Originally Posted by Boatcop1 View Post
I was going to do the install today but the instructions state that the PCV hose should be installed on the bottom port of the OCC? Can someone clarify?

Also what is the difference between the instructions for OCC's recieved pe and post 12/25/12? I read both and couldn't figure it out unless I overlooked something.
It looks like the location of the check valve was changed. In the pre 12/25 instructions, the check valve is placed between the PCV valve and the catch can. In the post 12/25 instructions, the check valve is placed between the intake manifold and the catch can.

@jbarone - why the change in the installation between the two version? Is there any reason to change the way my V1 is installed? Would it be preferable for the catch can not to be under boost pressure from the manifold?
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 Old 12-29-2012, 07:59 PM   #65
 
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Looks like I will hold off on this install. I would think you would not want the CC under incresed pressure via boost. I guess we'll see.
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 Old 12-30-2012, 06:58 AM   #66
 
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@jbarone; has clarified this before in other threads, the cv is there to releive pressure on the pcv valve. The can is desinged to take any pressure you can throw at it but other designs call for having the cv between the im and occ where his called for it to be between the occ and pcv. Per jamie it doesn't matter where you put it in his setup
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 Old 12-30-2012, 07:56 AM   #67
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We did change the location of the check valve from the crank case side of the setup to the intake side of the setup. The new instructions address this change. The check valve is a one way valve so, if your OCC kit was received before 12/25/12 the CV is configured to go on the crank case side. If your kit was received after 12/25/12 your CV is configured to go on the intake manifold side. You cannot just switch the location of the valve, it must be reconfigured. If you would like to change the location PM me and I'll walk you through it. There is no need to be concerned about having the CV in the crank case side. Our catch cans and the included components can handle all the pressure any stock or heavily modded Mazdaspeed has to offer. We made this change because our customers requested it. You speak, we listen and do our best to accommodate.

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 Old 12-30-2012, 08:36 AM   #68
 
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I received mine on Dec 28th.

As far as the hose routing though; this post suggests the PCV hose goes to the top port in the OCC but the instructions say route it to the bottom port in the OCC?


I'd Tap that, two times!
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 Old 12-30-2012, 08:53 AM   #69
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I'm not sure what post you're referring to. Just follow the instructions and you'll be fine.
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 Old 12-30-2012, 12:50 PM   #70
 
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Originally Posted by econman View Post
I did my OCC install today. It took me about 1.5 hours to do with about 30 minutes spent trying to get the hose off my PCV value. The clamp was slightly melted or glued to the hose, so it wasn't moving away from the valve - eventually I was able to keep the clamp open long enough to just slide the hose off the value.

Anyways I just had one question about the install. On the OCC, does the hose from the PCV valve go on the top outlet, or does the one from the intake go on the top? Based on what I read, the one from the PCV valve should go on the top outlet and that's how I installed it.
Originally Posted by jbarone View Post
You read right. Everything looks perfect. Good job!!
This is what I am refering to. Econman installed the hose comming from the PCV valve on the top inlet of the OCC and you confirmed this was correct.

The instructions on the JBR support page say to install the hose from the PCV valve on the bottom inlet of the OCC.

It makes perfect sense to connect it to the bottom port seeing that the intake hose must stay on top of the PCV hose from engine to can.

Just looking for clarification on this. Thanks for your Patience with me
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 Old 12-31-2012, 05:53 AM   #71
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I must have been stoned. The hose goes on the bottom. Sorry for the confusion.
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 Old 01-23-2013, 11:44 AM   #72
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Heavy stock on these, get yours now.
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 Old 02-07-2013, 03:38 PM   #73
 
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This is what I just pulled from mine around 4k miles. It usually is much darker. This look normal?

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 Old 02-07-2013, 04:12 PM   #74
 
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I will drain mine for the first time on this Saturday. ^^^That looks like straight gasoline...
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 Old 02-07-2013, 04:14 PM   #75
 
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Originally Posted by jdm_mica View Post
I will drain mine for the first time on this Saturday. ^^^That looks like straight gasoline...
Hmm, interesting...it does look like mostly gasoline. FWIW, this is what came out of mine;

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 Old 02-07-2013, 04:59 PM   #76
 
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I might pull my manifold off next week to see what's going on. I put the check valve between the manifold and the occ, forgot I made that change as well... I made sure everything was flowing the right way. It should open under vacuum no matter what right? I switched it so the entire system wouldn't be pressurized. I know it looks like gas but it doesent smell like it really.

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 Old 02-07-2013, 05:05 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by thatsmrgimp2u View Post
I might pull my manifold off next week to see what's going on. I put the check valve between the manifold and the occ, forgot I made that change as well... I made sure everything was flowing the right way. It should open under vacuum no matter what right? I switched it so the entire system wouldn't be pressurized. I know it looks like gas but it doesent smell like it really.

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The arrow on the CV needs to be pointing towards the manifold.
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 Old 02-07-2013, 05:25 PM   #78
 
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Yeah it is, I was sure to reverse it from how you had sent it.

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 Old 02-07-2013, 05:28 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by thatsmrgimp2u View Post
Yeah it is, I was sure to reverse it from how you had sent it.

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Good. Most likely more water than anything. Typical of this time of year although, I would expect it to be darker. I'd give the setup a good once over to be sure.
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 Old 02-07-2013, 08:10 PM   #80
 
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Originally Posted by jbarone View Post
Good. Most likely more water than anything. Typical of this time of year although, I would expect it to be darker. I'd give the setup a good once over to be sure.
So my girlfriends dad helped when I changed my transmission fluid, and when he tightened the valve at the bottom of the occ, I think it got stripped. I just can't get my head around how there could be vapor but no oil. I know it's thicker, so maybe the valve isn't opening all the way? How much would you charge me for another nozzle for the occ? I'd like to replace it anyway, due to strippage.

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