JBR SSP vs TWM short shifter

[06Speed6]

I just tossed my TWM short shifter because I was having 2nd gear grinding issues because it wasnt going all the way into gear. My understanding is that the Jbr ssp goes on the trans end of thethe cables and doesnt mess with the shifter at all. Does the Jbr ssp fully go into all gears out of the box or am I going to have to spend all afternoon dicking with it like I apparently have to do with the twm?

Thanks Jamie, im really not up on my short shifter stuff.

[JBR]

I think you'll be very pleased with the kit.

[atvfreek]

Bolts up in 10min. No adjustments needed.

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk

[TRex]

^not exactly....it bolts up in 10 min

but it is still recommended that you adjust your shifter...granted it is far less complicated from what i have seen than the twm....look up the vids on jamies site regarding the adjustment to see how long it takes....not bad at all

[06Speed6]

Thanks guys, ill check it out

[asall667]

I'm prolly the only one to say this and get flamed for it but oh well....

I hated my SSP it caused grinding and missed shifts alot!!! I fine tuned it to my liking and still grinding happened. That's why I sold it and I have yet to grind a gear stock!

The shorter throws were great improvement when your daily driving shifting normal but when you start shifting fast, that where it will get you. That's just my experience.

[TRex]

^i did have some issues but i switched from the heavy weight that jamie sends with the ssp and went back to the stock weight....has worked real well for me

[helmetface]

Mine worked like a charm, go stage two and pick up the bushings and the SSP, you won't regret it.

And if you aren't looking for the "shortest" throw, get the adjustable plate and you can back it off a bit.

Good luck, JBR ftw

[06Speed6]

Ive been looking into the adjustable one, the shift weight im still on the fence because i dont really understand why and how it makes shifting better.

Ide buy a weighted knob but they wont make a ceramic coated version. I cant imagine trying to cool off a 140* shift knob with twice the mass of the stock one.

[TRex]

^i see it like this

you are using the shifter to push a rod with a weight on the end of it....so the lighter the weight on the end of the rod the easier it is going to be to push that rod...however i believe the weight on the end also helps with getting it into gear (i am not 100% positive on that) so i think it is probably a fine line between too heavy and too light

[Vater]

I wasn't a fan of the weighted knob. The stock one feels better in my hand and the shifts feel notchier.

I definitely recommend getting the solid bushings, though--they really complete the whole short shift package. The shifter has too much play in it otherwise.

[silvapain]

Shift weighting is a preference. I prefer a light, notchy feel so I use the stock knob with no weight at all on the shifter arm at the transmission.

Play around with different knob/weight combos and find the balance that works best for you.


Tapadatass

[Vater]

I didn't think it was possible to remove the weight entirely, though I don't remember exactly how it mounts. I thought the screws mounted directly to the weight; did you use nuts to keep the plate on the shifter arm?

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by Vater I didn't think it was possible to remove the weight entirely, though I don't remember exactly how it mounts. I thought the screws mounted directly to the weight; did you use nuts to keep the plate on the shifter arm?

Yes. Nylocks specifically, and I used lockwashers as well for added safety.


Tapadatass

[TRex]

do you remember what size off hand...i have wanted to try no weight

[silvapain]

No, I'm afraid I don't. I'd guess offhand they are M8's.

I bought longer bolts along with the nuts and washers to ensure there were enough threads for everything.


Tapadatass

[Vater]

Unacceptable. I suggest you go measure them and tell me exactly what I need to get. Some people...