Camber arm seized

[alien_sporez]

Hey Jamie. I installed coil overs and got my alignment checked and have a little too much camber. I was able to adjust the right camber arm just fine, but my left one is seized. And I mean SEIZED. I have tried the following methods:

1. PB Blaster
2. Propane Torch
3. Brute force in a vice
4. PB Blaster and Brute Force
5. PB Blaster, torch and Brute Force
6. PB Blaster, torch, brute force and foul language

How much brute force did it resist? So much I actually separated the top off my work bench in my garage.

Can I get a replacement for the left one? If so, how much?

Thanks!

[Polish_Eagle]

Damn, you went full crazy on that thing! Total beast mode!

[macdiesel]

If you have access to a handheld map torch with a needle tip, it will burn hotter than propane. It's a yellow tank. Maybe the arms not getting hot enough to break loose?

[JBR]

A replacement is $95.00 shipped. PM me and we can make arrangements to get one out to you.

-Jamie

[King Scumbag]

OP, if you havnt tried yet, try letting it sit overnight coated in a good amount of PB blaster, try the method of trying to tighten it a little more if you can to maybe break it free and then run it back out. Also other avenues of approach you may or may not have tried. If you have access possibly a stronger bench with a vice, putting the end of the camber arm in the vice and spinning the arm itself loose and or putting the actual nut in the vice if possible.

Goodluck, I'm gonna brain storm some other methods we use here at work for it's an everyday struggle that ends up with me using an adjustable wrench or vice grips and hitting the base of it to get that shit free lol.

[zenit]

When stuff is that glued on, I usually take a thin cutting blade on an angle grinder and cut a diagonal cut across the nut, right to the depth before the thread begin. A few bangs with a cold chisel later, the nut has released all pressure by splitting (and NOT damaging the threads)

If the threads are seized INSIDE the arm, well...
Penetrating oil for a couple days!
or for the impatient, this has worked for me:
http://www.crcindustries.com/files/F...20Brochure.pdf

EDIT: Seeing as how you're in Houston, I doubt that the internal threads have seized on you. I bet you cutting that nut will do the trick.

[sidekick]

Try freezing it and then applying heat to the arm only.

[alien_sporez]

Originally Posted by zenit When stuff is that glued on, I usually take a thin cutting blade on an angle grinder and cut a diagonal cut across the nut, right to the depth before the thread begin. A few bangs with a cold chisel later, the nut has released all pressure by splitting (and NOT damaging the threads) If the threads are seized INSIDE the arm, well... Penetrating oil for a couple days! or for the impatient, this has worked for me: http://www.crcindustries.com/files/F...20Brochure.pdf EDIT: Seeing as how you're in Houston, I doubt that the internal threads have seized on you. I bet you cutting that nut will do the trick.

nope, threads inside the arm are seized. The locking nut is fine. Going to put some anti-seize on the other one because it was pretty tight to adjust.








Tapa-dabba-doooo

[JgamB]

I'm no metallurgist, but if I'd applied that much torque to the threaded rod, I would replace it for fear of metal fatigue.

[kritz]

Try heating again and then melt some paraffin into it. It is an old machinist's trick.

[zenit]

In an environment that's not conducive to huge amounts of rust/corrosion, I wonder if something didn't get bent (either the rod or the housing, or both), and that's what's causing you so much trouble.

I'll try the paraffin wax trick sometime, thanks @kritz. I hate to say it, but that $95 replacement is beginning to look good. IMHO- I'd dissect the arm with an angle grinder to find out what's wrong and post up. I'm sure Jamie and MSF'ers would appreciate your findings.

[alien_sporez]

Originally Posted by sidekick Try freezing it and then applying heat to the arm only.

This method worked. Soaked it, stuck in a Ziploc bag and stuck it in the freezer over night. This morning, torched the arm, and then used brute force... And got a tiny little wiggle out of it. Slowly just muscled it back and forth until I got it completely removed (and kept track of how many turns it took to remove so I could reinstall it to the exact same camber).



Put some anti seize in the threads, painted the spots where the powder coating got damaged, and reinstalled it just a few minutes ago!



Thanks everyone!








Tapa-dabba-dooooo

[Etipp98]

Acetone/ATF mix > pb blaster.

If you come across anything stubborn again try that mix 50/50.

[Nitr0EngiE]

and this is why I will start using anti seize more often

[alien_sporez]

Further to the discussion, there was corrosion on the threads inside the arm (female). The threads on the eye (male) were not corroded (probably due to the different type of steel used)


Tapa-dabba-dooooo