installing downpipe

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by Ckmazdaspeed3 Just did the second dp install on my car last night. I went from Catted cobb (donated to James Barone because of all he has done for me) and pit on a cnt catless. The funny thing is that the second dp you do on your car is a joke. If we were trying to hurry we probably could have done it in under an hour...top o2 sensor just twisted right out by hand lol (joels was the same when we switched out his turbo). And heat shields? My car had heat shields? Haha.

Ck, when you get a chance, I'd like to hear your impressions on running a catted dp vs catless.

[Ckmazdaspeed3]

@rfinkle2 (I would quote you but my computer is telling me that I need to type at least one character even after I type a full message, so anyway, I will know more in a few days, but here is what I have so far.

I lowered my wgdc by around 5 across the board and am hitting the same boost from like 5k plus, but slightly less before that... so i guess it really shines as you make more power???

My g/s are the same as they were when it was about 25-30* cooler out and today I had an extra 85 pounds in the car as well compared to the catted.

Then shit went a bit weird and I am in the process of figuring it out. My ltfts are always a little whacky, but don't go above +8, but now the minimum is +8 and the max is 14.8, and it leveled out there. I thought that maybe it was the tank of 4gallons of eth last night going down to e70, but I would imagine that would make me richer.

We did not touch any part of the intake system last night and I am positive that nothing was bumped and I don't think that exhaust work should affect it, right? right.

So I'll maf cal my shit tomorrow... I hate maf cals!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!

Oh, and it looks identical to the cobb, it took some pics.

[forcedinduktion]

Any one running a CNT dp or CP-E with a UR cbe? If so, do you need the adapter or do you just use the donut?

[jonspeed3]

This is the most miserable install on this car. Fuck you downpipe!

[Ckmazdaspeed3]

Originally Posted by jonspeed3 This is the most miserable install on this car. Fuck you downpipe!

Ha, wait until u tackle the manifold. The only thing tough about it the first time is breakng the studs loose on the turbo and working the o2 sensor out w/o stripping it, though the latter usually goes pretty well if you just take your time andgo back and fourth and back and fourth.

[rfinkle2]

Thanks CK.

[Mcortse]

Just finished installing cpe catless dp, only took 6 hrs with a lift and air tools wtf hah..
But def the best 485$ i spent yet.. The car pulls so much harder and can barely hook up in second.. For any of yaw doing this install make sure you have at least 3 lengths of extensions and 2 universal joints otherwise ur gna have a really hard time removing the studs.

[Dahouse702]

Took me 6 hrs to install my dp! Glad I got this install out of the way! Both o2 sensor came off easily. Only had one bolt come out of the turbo. Soak the crap out of everything with pb!

Can't wait to do this install on my buddies speed!
:-/

[ruthless013]

today was step one of my downpipe install.

i loosened up (but didnt totaly remove) the tmic so i could remove upper and lower heatshields on the exhaust manifold. i then started the car and let it idle for just a few minutes until the exhaust was hot to the touch. then i went to work on the o2 sensor. i used an old o2 sensor socket (looks like a regular socket with a slash in it). i was worried that it would spread open under serious torque, so i put it over the sensor then put zip ties around the base of it (hard to picture, i'll post a pic of it later). a worm clamp would have worked better but i didnt have a small one laying around. anyway, i was able to break it free with little effort.

once the o2 was out i removed the Dp heatshield. lastly, with relative ease i was able to crack loose 4 of the 5 DP nuts - as far as i could tell the nuts were turing not the studs. i was actually a little surprised they came out so easy give the bad reputation they have - i have a bunch of extra nuts and studs on standby, but apparently they wont be needed.

out of time, i buttoned everything back up minus the heatshields so i can get to work tomorrow. next time i have a few hours i will rip that stocker out of there and get my cobb DP in. then will have my corksport racepipe for sale (now accepting offers....).

[ruthless013]

DP went in this morning - total time 3 hours flat, in the driveway on jackstands with air tools.

the prep work i did last week helped big time. i had the o2 sensor and Dp nut/studs (4 of 5 studs came out with the nut) out super fast. put it up in the air and went to work from underneath. i had put in a corksport racepipe not long ago, so i was familiar with the steps for that and the exhaust bolts didnt fight me this time.

undoing the secondary o2 sensor harness requires using jedi powers, wrestled with it for a good 5 minutes. i was able to wiggle the stock DP out without removing the o2 sensor, which is definitely the way to go.

getting the o2 sensor out was cake because of the way i did it. used the o2 socket and some zip ties at the bottom (see pic). making sure it was snug and centered, i hit it with the impact gun on the lowest setting - it broke free with ease on the third hit. be careful!
IMG_2346.JPG

install was smooth - put the o2 sensor in before snaking the DP through, and use anti-seize liberally. i only had one stud in (the one in the 4 o'clock position) so i kind of hung it on that one. put the rubber hangers on to hold it in place.

dont forget the gasket - i reused the stocker. i had ordered replacement studs and nuts ahead of time, so i used those on four of the five. the replacement nuts are 15mm in stead of 14mm and are not as tall, which made getting the obstructed nut (7 o'clock) on easier - it still sucked though - ratcheting wrench FTW.

buttoned it up and took it for a quick spin - not much louder than with just the racepipe. have to wait for this evening to do some logs, see if it messed my trims up at all.

now time to relax.

IMG_2355.JPG

[Swagerwagon03]

sweet, can't wait to put my DP on...sounds like fun..

[skeurton]

I installed my downpipe back in August. Didn't run into any significant problems. Went to help out @Geo13 with his downpipe install yesterday and we can't get one of the turbo/downpipe flange nuts off. If you're looking directly at the flange from the passenger side, it's the one on the lower right. The other 4 came off like butter.

The problem we ran into is getting access to that one nut. We can get a socket on it, but it doesn't sit completely flush because the alternator gets in the way from the top. If we try to attack it from underneath the car, there's no room to get any leverage on the breaker bar. We tried all sorts of combinations of extensions and joints to no avail.

For the life of me, I can't remember how the hell I got that one nut off. Can anyone provide any details on what tools or combination of extensions you used to get that one nut off?

[Airman3454]

I know exactly what bolt you are talking about. Have you tried removing the TMIC bracket? I am trying to remember how I did it but I had a ton of different extensions that I used.

[Boost Addict]

Originally Posted by skeurton I installed my downpipe back in August. Didn't run into any significant problems. Went to help out @Geo13 with his downpipe install yesterday and we can't get one of the turbo/downpipe flange nuts off. If you're looking directly at the flange from the passenger side, it's the one on the lower right. The other 4 came off like butter. The problem we ran into is getting access to that one nut. We can get a socket on it, but it doesn't sit completely flush because the alternator gets in the way from the top. If we try to attack it from underneath the car, there's no room to get any leverage on the breaker bar. We tried all sorts of combinations of extensions and joints to no avail. For the life of me, I can't remember how the hell I got that one nut off. Can anyone provide any details on what tools or combination of extensions you used to get that one nut off?

I did mine last weekend and that nut was a PITA.

The way I did it was like this:

Ratchet with a swivel head to an extension with swivel head to another extension with swivel head, then the socket.

[skeurton]

Originally Posted by Airman3454 I know exactly what bolt you are talking about. Have you tried removing the TMIC bracket? I am trying to remember how I did it but I had a ton of different extensions that I used.

Yup, TMIC bracket is off. Removed the top mani heat shield, but couldn't get the lower one off because of a stripped bolt head. The lower shield doesn't make a difference though. It doesn't get in the way any. If it was off, all it would do is give us a better look at the nut, itself.

I remember using a lot of different extensions, as well. I just can't remember exactly what that combination was and how I got any leverage to break it loose!!!

[ruthless013]

deep 14mm socket, wobble, super long extension so that wrench was clear of alternator was how i did it.

i know you can access that stud from below when tightening up aftermarket DP, dont know how it looks under there for stocker.

[Boost Addict]

Originally Posted by ruthless013 deep 14mm socket, wobble, super long extension so that wrench was clear of alternator was how i did it. i know you can access that stud from below when tightening up aftermarket DP, dont know how it looks under there for stocker.

Its damn near impossible to get from underneath with the cat and mounting bracket in the way

[skeurton]

Originally Posted by bbode0 Its damn near impossible to get from underneath with the cat and mounting bracket in the way

Agreed. The bracket is out, but that damn cat is still in the way.

[Boost Addict]

Yeah the stock cat on the downpipe is huge blocking all access. If worst comes to worst and you dont have all the right tools you may have to remove the alternator to get to it.

[Airman3454]

I didnt remove a single turbo flange bolt from underneath. I do remember it took some wiggling around to get around the alternator. Worst case scenario you could pull the alternator out and go at it from there.

I wish I could be more helpful..

[skeurton]

Thanks for the help, guys! Finally got it out with this monstrosity.

[Airman3454]

YAY! Thats look about right! How does it sound?

[skeurton]

Originally Posted by Airman3454 YAY! Thats look about right! How does it sound?

@Geo13

[Boost Addict]

Originally Posted by skeurton Thanks for the help, guys! Finally got it out with this monstrosity.

Looks like the same way I did mine

[TriO]

Originally Posted by skeurton Thanks for the help, guys! Finally got it out with this monstrosity.

Damn that's why I'm worried about getting a downpipe. I only have a shitty socket set and Limited tools where I currently live

[IPuOnU]

K


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[wankular]

So it's probably a good idea to tackle that fucker bolt first? It would suck to get everything else off and have that sumbitch force you to put everything back on.

[Airman3454]

Originally Posted by wankular So it's probably a good idea to tackle that fucker bolt first? It would suck to get everything else off and have that sumbitch force you to put everything back on.

I am a firm believer on soaking them multiple times with PB Blaster. It will smoke when you pop the hood to remove the DP but all of mine came out like butter.

Spray it 2 days before you plan on working on the car. Spray before you start removing the shields etc, and spray right before you remove the bolts.

I did all of the above and had ZERO issues.

[Geo13]

Hey fellas sorry for the delay....first off the DP install went fairly well soaked everything with PB Blaster,took a spin around the block soaked again, everything came off easy with the exception of the bottom left bolt (removal tool supplied by @skeurton)....barely pulled the trigger on that thing and it sat over night bolt spun loose like nothing.
Second I've been dealing with the mysterious BOV/BPV whine after installing said DP. Currently stripping down TS BOV for re lube (running stock BPV sound went away). EDIT: Turbosmart BOV is running EXCELLENT after a cleaning and lube job.....no more whining sound.
Last was the gauge install (harder then the DP install, LoL)...BIG THANKS TO @skeurton!

Anyways here's a clip of my set up which is the old set up that @skeurton was running (and his vid clip).....will do a new clip in the exhaust thread when he brings his go pro..

2011 Mazdaspeed 3 - UR Downpipe + UR Resonated Test Pipe + CS CBE - YouTube

2011 Mazdaspeed 3 - UR Downpipe + UR Resonated Test Pipe + CS CBE - YouTube

Thanks for all the input during this process......

[rghispanic88]

Originally Posted by jonspeed3 This is the most miserable install on this car. Fuck you downpipe!

i really dont think its that bad. personally i think The passenger rear camber arm is worst. 1 hour trying to take out one bolt.

[foodtime]

The downpipe gods were toying with my feelings. I had difficulty with the same bolt everyone wants to cuss out. After working on the bolt for hours and thinking my deep sockeet stripped the head. Come to find out, bolt has been dislodged since the begining. Helps using a flash light helps alot...stupid bolt


small question: I took off the intercooler and the DP bolts are lossly off the bolt. Would my car mess up if I started the car up to get it onto a ramp?

[zatara]

You might go deaf, but should be fine otherwise. Just don't let it run too long like that.

[YABBAMZR]

Jack it up and slide the ramps under the wheels. Or jacks stands work to

[foodtime]

how much space did you guys need underneath the car to work on the DP? my jack won't go so high which is why I want to use my ramps, a bit taller.

[Airman3454]

Originally Posted by foodtime how much space did you guys need underneath the car to work on the DP? my jack won't go so high which is why I want to use my ramps, a bit taller.

I cant help you our with you working on jacks, but it was a breeze on a lift. If you can find access to a lift I would definitely go that route. Just so much easier than wiggling under the car..

[mazdaboy3]

i think it's alot easier to do on a liftthen being on your back totally sucks however it is do able. hey i'm a noob i i'm trying to sell my test pipe and forge bpv valve on the forum how would i go about doing that i'm asking $150 i could really use your guys help thank you

[adlpb]

Originally Posted by mazdaboy3 i think it's alot easier to do on a liftthen being on your back totally sucks however it is do able. hey i'm a noob i i'm trying to sell my test pipe and forge bpv valve on the forum how would i go about doing that i'm asking $150 i could really use your guys help thank you

1. Donate
2. Go to the For Sale section (either Gen1 or Gen2 will do as the mods you listed are for both)
3. Follow the rules on how to sell
4. Profit

[dr_banano]

Originally Posted by foodtime how much space did you guys need underneath the car to work on the DP? my jack won't go so high which is why I want to use my ramps, a bit taller.

yeah a lift would be the best to do the downpipe, although i did with ramps but it was frustating sometimes i took 3 nights each 3 hours = 9 hours total, to install the downpipe ...

[foodtime]

I got my DP in. Stupid CP-E (jk...i love CP E). I bought my pipe, used, with no instructions. I spent almost two hours trying to figure out how to slide the DP in. I would really suggest using a lift. I was half pissed off from having a hard time trying to slide the pipe in and the other half pissed from the tight space underneath the car. For some reason there is no "how to's" on CPE DP. I wonder why?

[adlpb]

Originally Posted by foodtime I got my DP in. Stupid CP-E (jk...i love CP E). I bought my pipe, used, with no instructions. I spent almost two hours trying to figure out how to slide the DP in. I would really suggest using a lift. I was half pissed off from having a hard time trying to slide the pipe in and the other half pissed from the tight space underneath the car. For some reason there is no "how to's" on CPE DP. I wonder why?

The cp-e How-to would be exactly the same as the Cobb one

http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...ew-16310/?pg=3