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 Old 05-05-2019, 02:50 PM   #1
 
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Default 2013 mazdaspeed

HI everyone!I bought this car about a month ago and i wanted to do a cobb stage tune 2 eventually. I bought stage 1+ including the internal/ intake/ turbo inlet.
I installed these parts myself. After the install the car was running fine until i blew the turbo seal. I took it to the dealership(stealership) and they put in new turbo/ coil packs and spark plugs. When i picked it up they told me that it needs a tune because of the HPFP. I put the COBB stage map tune on it. That didnt fix it. The car will idle fine for about 10 minutes and it then eventually dies and i get a fuel system too rich in bank 1. Mazda tells me it needs a tune, Cobb tells me its mechanical issue. I need help please!Attached are the logs of it idling.
Should i just go back to stock internal?
Fuel is leaking into my oil. Massive amounts of fuel in my oil,
Bad orings?
http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...-datalog18.csv
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 Old 05-13-2019, 10:15 AM   #2
 
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So quick update. I had found that i took the pump out and the oring was completely broken. I replaced it and the car ran fine for about 5-10ish minutes and it then stalled. The car wont stay idling unless i keep my foot on the gas and even then RPMS bounce up and down. It stalls at every time i stop. and cranks long to start.I have the log of the car from idle to stall. I need help! not sure what it coiuld be as im in a lost. CEL hasnt came back on but i did run a po172 and a o2 sensor slow response before i changed the oring
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File Type: jpg Oring.JPG (5.83 MB, 4 views)
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File Type: xlsx Idle to stall!.xlsx (83.4 KB, 1 views)
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 Old 05-13-2019, 10:47 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Amnesia View Post
So quick update. I had found that i took the pump out and the oring was completely broken. I replaced it and the car ran fine for about 5-10ish minutes and it then stalled. The car wont stay idling unless i keep my foot on the gas and even then RPMS bounce up and down. It stalls at every time i stop. and cranks long to start.I have the log of the car from idle to stall. I need help! not sure what it coiuld be as im in a lost. CEL hasnt came back on but i did run a po172 and a o2 sensor slow response before i changed the oring
So...it kind of sounds like you have a massive vacuum leak and/or you may be running the wrong map for the intake that you have on the car.

If you have a larger-than-stock diameter MAF housing, the MAF calibration has to be altered in the tune to account for the increase in airflow possible via the new housing.

Also, you need to be more specific about what tune you are actually using. Saying that it is a "Cobb stage map tune" means nothing. If it is a "Stage 0" or "safe" tune, that's quite different than a "Stage 3" tune. Moreover, you need to be specific about what exact parts are on the car and what their internal diameters are.
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 Old 05-13-2019, 12:29 PM   #4
 
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The tune i put on it was the 2011-2013 MAZDASPEED3 USDM STAGE 1 + SF MAP straight from cobbs website. The car had CorkSport intake before i changed it to all cobb with the intake, turbo inlet and the HPFP autotech internals. Everything else is stock from what i know. Ive only had the car 2 months. I Drove it to my house just barely maybe 2 miles and tons of white smoke is pouring out of it. I noticed that there is a bpv from Corksport, could that be an issue? There isnt coolant leaks as the coolant level has stayed steady and no discoloration.
Car runs the same whether map is changed to stage 0
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 Old 05-13-2019, 12:51 PM   #5
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If you've got fuel dilution of your oil, then the HPFP is a good place to start. I'm guessing it's not installed properly and/or one or more o-rings is pinched.

The clouds of smoke don't sound like a good thing, and would generally indicate coolant burning off, as oil smoke tends to be bluish or blackish.

The BPV could be a source of a vacuum leak, but it wouldn't have any impact on your fuel/oil dilution issue.
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 Old 05-13-2019, 01:04 PM   #6
 
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what are the steps i should take? New HPFP? or change all orings?
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 Old 05-13-2019, 01:26 PM   #7
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First and foremost, you need to check your work. Since you have identified that your oil is suffering from fuel dilution, you need to figure out where the fuel/oil interface with the leak is. If you haven't touched anything else, and the problem only recently reared its head, then the HPFP is the likeliest culprit. I would start there.

Check all of the o-rings in/on the pump (there are more than one), make sure that they're in good condition, not pinched, crimped, cut, or otherwise damaged. Check the bore that the HPFP piston sits in. Make sure that there are no marks or damage on the bore and no marks or damage on the cam bucket/follower. Similarly, make sure that the piston itself is properly oriented, installed correctly, and does not have any physical damage (scoring, scrapes, etc.). Then reinstall the thing and test.

Then, if the problem is still happening, you need to figure out the next most likely place for fuel and oil to meet.

As far as your car stalling out, you don't appear to be running the right tune, or you have a massive boost or vacuum leak. You should check all of the intake system from the filter to the turbo, and from the turbo through the intercooler to the intake manifold and make sure all of the hoses are properly connected, not pinched, in good condition (not cracked or otherwise damaged), and well secured.

The reason I say this is that when you tip into the throttle in your datalog the car is dipping into the 8:1 AFR range. There is no load to speak of, and no boost is being produced. This is NOT the way the car should run.

You should be in the 10 or 11:1 range at wide-open throttle, and every other driving condition requires a less-rich mixture than that (i.e. 12:1 - 29.25:1). At idle, your AFR should be around stoich or 14.7:1. That there is a problem is further evidenced by the fact that your car is constantly trying to pull fuel out of the mixture, as your STFT is pretty much pegged at -25 the entire log. That means that your ECU is trying to reduce the fuel content of the mixture by at least 25% during the entire log.

Also, do you have a stock or an aftermarket HPFP (or aftermarket HPFP internals)? If you're running an aftermarket intake on a GenPu, you need upgraded HPFP internals to be safe.
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 Old 05-13-2019, 02:53 PM   #8
 
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I will post back when i have checked all o-rings and all connections. Thanks again for all that information i really appreciate it!
I do have upgraded internals (stock pump)and thats when the problem started. I sprayed cleaner in the pump and i honestly think that the o-rings are ruined like the one i changed.
With the car stalling,Is it just getting too much fuel from a bad oring allowing it to go thru the cam?
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 Old 05-13-2019, 09:25 PM   #9
 
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Why do you think you blew the turbo seal ? I thought the gen2 was supposed to be more rugged than the gen1 in this area ? Now you got me worried, I just got a 2013 MS3 and I'm doing the same thing as you. (internal/ intake/ turbo inlet) + Cp-e DP. and stage 2 tune
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 Old 05-15-2019, 11:49 PM   #10
 
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Honestly i dont think i blew the turbo, I took it into the dealership and that what they said the white smoke was from but im still getting white smoke. I took the pump apart the other day and noticed that the cam follower has some nicks on it, it only caught on one of them with my finger nail, how did it get scratched? do i need a new one? The rest of the HPFP o rings looked good but i ordered a O-ring kit just to be sure. The internal also didnt look scored or damaged. The inside of where the cam follwer sits had no nicks, It was super smooth
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 Old 05-21-2019, 01:06 PM   #11
 
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I have re-installed the HPFP internals with brand new orings. torqued to spec, the car still has white smoke. When i started it, it was billowing out. It eventually cleared out with still some white smoke. Coolant level is still steady. i have logs of it idling. There is also still fuel inside the oil. I think i should rule out the HPFP? what could this be??? Sticking Fuel injectors?
AFR starts well but slowly creeps down to around.
Same with STFT its pegs at -25 later in the log..
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File Type: xlsx Idle Log after HPFP install.xlsx (122.8 KB, 2 views)
File Type: xlsx Driving after HPFP.xlsx (220.9 KB, 1 views)
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 Old 05-21-2019, 01:59 PM   #12
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Whelp...something is still seriously FUBARed on your car. The fact that your AFR keeps getting stuck at 14.85:1 suggests that something odd is happening with the AFR calculation system - that probably means something is wrong with one or more of your MAF sensor, or your primary O2 sensor.

Have you or your mechanic(s) messed with either one of them lately?

Have you done anything else to the high pressure fuel injection system? For example, have you done anything to the spill valve or the high pressure relief valve? Have you done anything to the injectors or injector seals?
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 Old 05-22-2019, 06:30 PM   #13
 
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Ill check the sensors and possibly order new ones.
what is causing the white smoke? excessive fuel?
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 Old 06-11-2019, 05:11 PM   #14
 
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So Update on the car. I put in a brand new fuel pump with the stock internals and the car is running great! I dont have any heavy amount of fuel inside my oil, No white smoke and no stalling. I have yet to put the auto-tech internals on as i enjoy driving it.
Thanks for all the help!
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 Old 06-24-2019, 10:16 AM   #15
 
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here is a log with the stock pump in, How does it look?
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