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(Thread Starter) | Neutral : -1 score SO HERE IS WHAT I DID.... Total spent - $49.99 + tax on a K&N Panel filter Tools: need a 10mm socket with extension and a screwdriver - also a drill and 2" hole saw Labor: 30 mins of my time Removing the box as most of you probably know is very easy (one 10mm bolt and loose the intake clamp with a screw driver). After removing the box and visually inspecting - I have found that the intake tube (going to the turbo - after the MAF - Mass Air Flow sensor) is 3" in diameter which I believe is big enough to support enough CFM for our little engines. Surprising the tube doesn't have hard bents or any taper areas to restrict its flow - seems like its good enough for mild mods. Now....the air box (under the filter) has a inlet tube which routes to the front of the car (somewhere over the center of the radiator) is roughly 2 1/2" in diameter. That tube gets even smaller as it route to the front of the car (seems very restricted). At first I thought, just remove the tube and leave it open but I realized that this tube brings in fresh cool air from the front of the car and not the HOT engine bay air. So I decided to leave the tube and slightly modified the box itself. I went ahead and cut up a 2" diameter whole on the bottom of the box, closer to the fender - to keep away from heat. So with this new opening and the existing 2 1/2" tube I think I have more then enough flow. With the K&N and the slightly modded air box I'm sure I picked up some numbers (believe it or not, I can feel the difference during some test runs I did during the day). Of course I can not be sure unless I had a before and after dyno. Overall, I am happy with this little mod. I don't plan on going extreme with my mazdaspeed 3, I use it everyday for work and to get me where I need to go. I do have the 7 year 70K mile extended warranty so that would really suck to lose that. I come from hardcore mustang and heavly modded bimmers and now Im ready for a little break. (Hopefully I can hold off). My future plan is to try to get the most out of my car without noticing changes. One project I plan on doing some research is on our little turbo's....I heard from a friend that it is possible to replace the impellers in our turbo to provide better overall boost and the ability to get more boost while still keeping that original looking turbo. Cost wise, from what I heard it isn't all the expensive and the gain (not being great) is very noticeable and with a good tune it can be a great setup for a daily driven car. SOON TO COME |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Hate to say it, but what you think you "felt" was pure placebo effect. Also, there's a very good chance what you did is decrease air flow in too. Though the air box is restrictive, as the air comes into the airbox, it's pressurized to an extent, and basically forced to go through the filter and then onto the engine. By cutting a large hole in the base of the airbox you've lost the "pressurized" force of the airbox itself, and further, since the hole on the bottom of the airbox isn't big enough or take in any direct air, what you very well did is allowed some of the air coming in from the inlet tubing to actually escape OUT of the bottom of the airbox (through that hole you made) instead of going up through the filter and into your engine. Think of it this way: Take a 1" wide 10' long garden hose, hook it up to a sealed 1 foot square box, then have a two inch wide 5' hose exit the other side of the box. Then with an can pressurized air, blow air into the 1" garden hose side and measure the amount of air coming the other side. No drill a 1" hole in the sealed box and do the same. You will get less air coming out the other end of the hose and you'll get air coming out of 1" hole you put in the box. I've dyno tested cars with the stock airbox in place and then removed the covers to allow the fans air to go directly into the engine (a sort of CAI affect) and more often than not it gave me no more power. Simple reason I concluded, the air is not being directed through the filter and into the engine and the tubing hasn't changed so no gain was made. CAI's are designed to (as you stated) sort of suck air in and with that bring more air into the engine. If they aren't designed properly they don't work. If you wanted to make a "ghetto" intake that allowed more air in, you could of tried drilling that hole and then inserting a tubing that lead to the front of the car. In that instance you'd have the stock tubing plus the additional tubing forcing air into the airbox, but not letting it escape out of a hole in the bottom. This would be like inserting a tube into that 1" hole you drilled in the sealed box in my example above and now blowing air into the box from both the garden hose side and the tube you just inserted into the hole you cut into the box. Last edited by Driver72; 10-26-2009 at 08:21 AM. |
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(Thread Starter) | Neutral : +1 score I understand what your trying to say but think about this... a CAI is a filter sitting in a HOT engine bay with no RAM effect. As to the stock air box the Turbo is doing all the sucking so there is no loss of pressure because both holes are now being use to bring in MORE air. Make perfect sense and I'm not the only one who has tried this. Many from many make and models have done mods like this and to only see gains. It has nothing to do with being cheap or trying to "ghetto rid" the engine....Im just trying to make some extra power without having to purchase an intake system...I really want to keep the stock look (sleeper). And like many have said...the stock tubing isn't the issue...its the box. Create more flow - see more power. |
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I think you are seeing it wrong. I've tried this with several different cars going back to 2002 when I had my new Maxima. I also tried it with my BMW 335i when I came across a dude who gave me his stock intake box after putting on a CAI. I tried dynos and it showed nothing, I did VBox runs and nothing. You are not seeing it correctly. The box is not fully the issue. It's the lack of air getting IN that is. One 2.5 inch bent tubing won't allow enough air in to support mods. CAI's if designed properly will have heat shields, they allow more air in because they get A LOT more air available to go into the filter and into the ducting and therefore into the engine. By drilling a hole in the bottom of your stock airbox, there is nothing to force air into the airbox from that hole. Air will take the path of least resistance. The air coming into the air box from the 2.5 inch tubing that leads to the front of the car will have SOME pressure/velocity to it. Then it goes INTO the air box and that air is then somewhat pressurized (loosely used) and then takes the path of least resistance...which is through the filter and into the engine. However, with your newly formed large hole in the bottom, guess what's going to become one of the paths of least resistance now? Yup, out of the hole you made. Now, before you say, but air will be sucked into that hole and therefore get more air into the airbox. Again, not if the "pressurized" air coming from the 2.5" stock inlet tubing is of greater force. Instead of sucking air into the hole you made, it will push the air OUT of the hole you made. There are some low end tests you could do to check but as I've said, I've done many already and it doesn't work. You need to pressurize that air into that hole you made to help force more air up through the filter. The only way to do that is by inserting a tube that is directed towards the front of the car so the air is forced into that tube and then guided into the airbox where the only place it can go then is up through the filter and into your engine. But if you are going to do that, you might as well just get a CAI. | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Your still not understanding dude....when driving at high RPM the suction from the turbo is soo great there is no pressure in the box, both holes will be bringing air in not out. Here's a perfect TEST...have a friend give the car some gas (roughly 2K to 2500 RPM...and put your hand on the intake tube...I would not be surprised if your hand gets pushed in). Better yet, get a 6hp shop vac and attached it too the outlet of the box...then get a fan and face it infront of the inlet tube...you tell me if the that fan will push air out of the second hole or will the shop vac suck air from both holes. (and thats only a 6HP shopvac, can you imagine what a 270HP engine can do)..lol Here is another thing...if you remove the bottom half of th box - its just like a CAI (no difference) where do you see it being different. CAI is still getting HOT air - I still have not seen a CAI out for the MS3 with a heat shield. There's actually a dyno not far from where I live, once I get some time I see if I can get a appointment to test out. Im sorry but your theory makes no sense. I too have had many dyno runs on many cars and to many of my surprises I have found CAI sucking in HOT air actually degrades the performance, not helps. If you study our air box and see how restricted that tube that comes from the front of the engine you will understand that this is where the problem lies. Sticking a big filter in the engine bay will just suck in HOT AIR.....have you ever opened your hood after a short drive. Here in NY its already getting cold but yet I drive a few blocks and open the hood and everything is steaming HOT. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score good info none the less. |
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OK, believe what you will. But I can tell you that you don't have the dyno experience I have, because if you did, you'd know CAI's often show little gain on a dyno. The reason? The fans don't replicate the amount of air you get on the road. CAI's work best, as I stated, with a heat shield too. But a better example of how they work on a car with a relatively restrictive air box is doing drag strip, VBox or rolling runs to see the improvement. It's there and will show in times, speeds, and gains. If cutting a hole in an airbox allowed more air into the airbox, then why do you suppose everybody doesn't do it? As I stated, I've tested holes in airboxs on 3-4 cars on both dynos and on VBox's. Once again, I was just giving my feedback from actual experience. Clearly this is your first time doing it, and like so many on this forum, people here just don't seem to want to actually hear feedback from people with experience. Oh, and FYI, you stated you wanted to keep your car looking normal for warranty reasons, but rest assured, if you have an engine/drivetrain issue, the techs will look over the car, and more than likely pull the airbox lid. See the K&N and very possibly pull it and see the hole. If they don't, when it's on the lift, if the hole is visible from underneath they'll see it there too. You'd be better off getting a CAI and if you have issues, then pop the stock unhampered with airbox back on before taking the car in. I tested my BMW 335i with air intake LID OFF and a dyno fan blowing on it. Got about 1 peak hp more. The turbos didn't suck anymore air in that way than with the lid on. And on a dyno with the CAI on, you see about 7-8 rwhp more. On the road it's probably more like 15 when going 100 mph. But believe what you want, if you think drilling a hole in the airbox is going to get more air in and give you more power, more power to you. | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score WOW....you really know "nothing about nothing", honestly...do you even read what you write...does it make any sense. I'm not the only person that has done this and have seen gains. No wonder why nobody is backing you up. The OEM intake it came with is (in most cases) going to be the best - sounds crazy but here's the real deal - The reasons anyone makes a "cold air intake" are: 1) To sell you something that "looks cool" and makes noise (keywords - sell you something). 2) Because "Fast & Furious" was just such a cool movie and "you gotta be like them, dawg". 3) You'll think your ride is that much better than the next one just like it (they made thousands of em). Now back to the real deal - Most "cold air intakes" are misleading to begin with. If the filter is an open element (you can see the filter) and it's under the hood, it is actually a "hot air intake" (in other words - they lie and sell you something). When was the last time you ever felt a cool breeze under the hood of a car/ truck? A true cold air intake has to take in air from an ambient source - aka outside the engine bay. If you want one that bad for the "cool factor", or if your car/ truck doesn't breathe from outside the engine bay, find one that fits that description. The air that the OEM (the one it came with from the factory, or Original Equipment Manufactured) air intake breathes in is usually from just behind the grille itself, or sometimes from a fenderwell. This "air charge" is actually cold (or ambient temperature air), as hot air will just drop your ignition timing (because of pre-ignition or detonation) as the temperature of the intake air increases, and take all your HP with it. Let common sense help some on deciding just how good an aftermarket part or system is: 1) Why would the Manufacturer short you on the performance it could have for an extra $100? 2) If you gained MPG with a simple piece of tubing and a "one size fits all" air filter element - wouldn't they do that at the factory that built the vehicle? 3) Who do you think has more money and resources for Research and Development - the company that designed and built the entire vehicle, or the company that made that "cold air intake"? 4) If something you could buy and install yourself would actually add HorsePower and MPG, why would any vehicle manufacturer waste millions designing it the way they did (and lose the edge on the competition)? Add to that the water protection that a stock OEM air box is designed to provide. Water intrusion is a HUGE concern to prevent damage, and here's the reason, air compresses and water doesn't. If an engine breathes in water, and tries to compress it, it will break in a big way. Some "cold air intake" kits have a water intrusion valve that is basically a ping-pong ball in a sleeve - good luck trusting an engine to that. I know where they got the R&D on that design, just open up a wet/ dry shopvac and you'll see the same thing. Amazing how brilliant these things are when you dig. Just do a search and you will find MILLIONS of sites that talk about the same thing. You keep talking about BMW's (this is a Mazda forum) I'm sure the BMW air box is built much different then the ms3 air box. Im sure it also flows much better then the MS3 air box. That is why you see no difference when you remove the box. Its plain and simple, mazda design our air boxes to keep the noise out at the cost of some restriction. Remove that restriction and bring in a little noise and you will see some gain. Last edited by akbrazil; 10-26-2009 at 10:06 AM. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Drink a soda from a straw. Now drink a soda from a straw with a hole in the straw. No where near the flow was without the whole. Thats the easiest way I can describe Driver 72 is talking about.
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(Thread Starter) | Neutral : -1 score
Try that same experiment with a taper tube. Suck the air in from the larger side...Now on the wider end open up a hole. Which one feels better, no hole or with a hole.????? get a 6hp shop vac and attached it too the outlet of the box...then get a fan and face it infront of the inlet tube...you tell me if the that fan will push air out of the second hole or will the shop vac suck air from both holes. (and thats only a 6HP shopvac, can you imagine what a 270HP engine can do) DUDES!! Not trying to make emenies here, just trying to shade the light, you guys are not thinking straight. Think about the logic and why would the manufacture miss 20HP and 30TQ?????????? Your getting con in by buying those expenses pieces of tubing and really the problem with our MS3 air box design was that the manufacture was trying to eliminated the noise you hear with the open element system and had to make restrictions with muffles and many bents....just like the exhaust system. Why do you think a CAI makes that extra power (and noise), is it because it has a BIG filter sitting in a HOT engine bay???? or is it because it eliminated the restriction that the air box had. Im sure there are many customers that buy the MS3 and don't want a loud A@@ car as a daily driver. So what does the manufacture do, they make some restriction to quiet the car down in exchanges of some power loss. Last edited by akbrazil; 10-26-2009 at 10:27 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score there are two paths now, I don't think there's any question that the flow is less restricted now. The only question, I believe, is whether or not the new intake path is pulling in air that's too hot. |
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The engine bay is always going to get HOT even driving 100 mph and besides that the air moving thur the radiator is getting heated and moving into the engine HOT | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score all cai for ms3 sucks air from right behind the fenderwell... It is pretty well enclosed. You wont get hydrolocked unless you submerge the filter. |
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I know that I have always used cold air intakes not because of the F&F (since I was modding cars long before that came out) but because the air IS cooler down there. I can see the SRI sucking in some hot air, but if I run my car hard, even at a STOP the air is burning hot (and seeping out of my squirrel-sucker, AKA hoodscoop) but when I reach down to where the air filter is on the CAI, it's significantly cooler down there. I mean, it's BARELY in the engine bay, it's a lot closer to the ground in the front bumper. In the 1st gen it's even more pronounced on my friends 2008.5. It seems like air flows right into that area near the fog light in the bumper. On the 2010 it doesn't seem like it flows as well, but it's still a different temperature than the air above it.
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Remove that restriction and I'm sure you will see just as good of gains as any intake system will give. | |
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With that said, I don't feel like I wasted money on a CAI since it's tested and works and I can return the car to stock. You will have to buy a Mazda OEM stock airbox to do that later which might cost more than the $300 I spent on a CAI EDIT: on your post above you just described a Cold Air Intake. The Short Ram Intake is the one that sits in the engine bay...
__________________ I drive a white car with a HUGE spoiler Cobb Accessport Stage 1 + Cobb SF Intake | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score he confused ram air with cai intake. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score
I'm not saying it doesn't work...im sure it does work as you probably know it remove the air box (one part this post is all about). That being said, the air box being an issue then modding it will not hurt it but improve it. As for having to replace it for dealer service, I really don't see the need....I plan on going to the dealer for my regular maintenance service and keeping a good relationship with them. I don't see why they would give me a problem with a 2" hole in my box. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Have you ever seen a CAI?? The filter is not sitting in a HOT engine bay....and your butchered stock box isnt getting any RAM effect either
I could keep going on but im tired of this. anyone want to pick up where I left off? | ||||||||||||||||
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Im sorry I got the terms mixed up....but either way both intakes do the same thing (remove the stock air box). Both intake are mounted inside the engine bay (being that CAI get somewhat cooler air from the bottom of the car with the risk of water). Yes, GOOGLE...PLEASE do...and what do you find, you find manufacture trying to sell there product. Of course there going to say good things about it. On the other hand, try to Google a little more deeper and you find many post on how well the airbox are already designed on many make and models. Last edited by akbrazil; 10-26-2009 at 11:31 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Geez Guys make a damn comment that will help him. Cut out the whole side of the air box and most of the base. You need to increase the air intake area. CUT MORE OFF the STOCK BOX. Period! Cut out enough area of the stock box that is equal to the surface area of the filter. You WILL see more gains and will act as a cold air intake. I would have left it with a skeleton stock air filter box but it would not fit with the L2AIC. And the whole "pressurized" theory is garbage. <<This is the writings of the EcoTreeHuggers and their new babble gobbledeguck of "new thinking" in order to sell you on their ideas of what "proper" is.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Not for service, I'm saying that you aren't going to drive/own your car for eternity. I get bored of cars faster than most people but you will eventually need to return it to stock to sell it. Even if you sell it to another person that wants to mod it, they will want the stock airbox too! So I mean when you go to resell it. Service doesn't even care about normal intakes.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I did all kinds of mods to the factory box including blocking off the stock inlet hole and drilling a 3" hole on the fender side and drove a flex hose into the fender for the cai effect, while it did recieve colder air from the fender my stft and ltft were out of whack, i put my cpe cai back on and now im back to normal. I guess if you do what i did and keep the same size dia hole towards the fender it will work out fine but you are not going to notice the hp difference, its just to small of a gain. |
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| Neutral : +1 score Just get an intake and switch it out for dealer visits. Stop hacking up your OEM parts. That shit will void your warranty faster than actual mods will. Do not listen to Driver72. He doesn't own a Mazdaspeed and never has. He has no real experience with this car AT ALL. Everything he tells you is based off of what he knows from other platforms. Ignore him and his novels. Listen to the people who have actual hands on experience with this car, not some fucking douchebag who thinks he knows what's up. And please, no more ghetto rigging. You have a nice car, keep it that way. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Sorry dudes!! I really didn't want to make this a big deal. What is done is done and Im happy with my little "hole in the box" I don't plan on making any more holes. Once I get a dyno run I will see if indeed the box did make a change or not. Either way I am enjoying the car and plan on keeping it as close as stock as possible. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You could have just removed the lower resonator and would have received the same effect. And this is NOT a naturally aspirated engine, The intake does not have to be "pressurized". If that was the case we would be losing power with aftermarket intakes which don't "pressurize" the intake. Anything connected to the turbo inlet is considered a restriction.
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Umm, you don't need to own a MS3 to know a hole drilled in the bottom of your stock airbox isn't going to work. LOL Funny how everybody who posted following responses pretty much just agreed with what I said. He should of just gotten a CAI, but as stated, he's now going to need to get a stock OEM box back and hope the dealer never notices the hole in his stock airbox is he has an engine problem. You may think I know nothing, but unlike you I actually post experienced, useful information for people. You just come on here and badger off like a 13 year old with middle school name calling and so forth. I've owned dozens and dozens of cars, have dynoed, tested, tuned, modded, raced and gathered info on many more. I am friends with tuners, shop owners, and so forth. You can call me all the names you want, but rest assured, I speak from experience, you speak from your pre pubescent mind set and vocabulary. Grow up kid. As I said to the OP in the beginning, good luck with his ghetto mod and his placebo effect belief that he did something good to make more power, while maintaining a stock "sleeper" look. Mechanics and techs are stupid, if he has an engine problem, they will look at his intake as well. There will be no hiding that hole and no way to return it to stock before taking it in for engine service if he has too (well short of buying a new intake box from Mazda, which I'm sure will run several hundred dollars). | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score lol at this thread. you just wasted $50 and your time.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Driver72 For This Useful Post: | speed3 (10-26-2009) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score i keep telling the OP japanese cars arent like german cars. the reason why the stock air box mod "works" on german cars is b/c they dont gain anything from intakes. their stock air boxes flow efficiently compared to Japanese air boxes. i also told him, if he thinks that hes going to see the same gains modding the air as with intake, more power to him but hes fooling himeslf so one more tmie OP...if the stock air box mod was to good, the community would do it. we drive japanese cars which see gains from intakes b/c jap air boxes are super restrictive unlike german car air boxes
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| Not Ranked : 0 score air is like liquid....shut your fuckin corn hole... mazdas247.com is where u belong...delete your account here and go there..we don't wanna deal with stupid rice fgt mods that fuckin make u ose power or do nothing..you are wrong have a nice day fuck off.... bad day today and reading stupid shit like this just makes me even more mad... "i wish I could thank myself!" |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Years ago I worked at a nation wide peformance center. I had a chance to talk with the engineers of K/N. They said the same thing. Euro cars are built with pretty good flowing boxes so they only made the drop ins for those applications.
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Again, for the second time: go to a WRX forum and keep your ass there. On the other hand, it's a lot of fun fucking with you so maybe you should stick around.
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How long have you owned your MS3? A couple years and you have what, like 3-4 mods? How many times have you dynoed it? Have you even ever tested air flow and the affects of various drop in filters, CAI's, and mods are this car?Have you set any records? Do you even know basic stuff like the weight of your stock wheels/tires? Don't worry I know you know none of those things and haven't done any of them. Before running off your juvenile trap any more, maybe you should actually go out and learn a few things about your own car, test a few things, then actually contribute some useful information here, instead of your endless useless posts. I guess what you've learned the most is how to hit the "groan" button on posts you get walked all over in knowledge about. Your only way to feel big and important by trying to knock down others huh? LOL You got picked on a lot as a child too I'm sure. The outward hostility you continue to show is a dead giveaway. Once again, grow up kid. Now do you think you could try not to ruin anymore of this guys post with your childish banter and useless responses? I surely have nothing more to say or deal with you here. Good day.
Well at least I was nice to him in breaking the bad news to him. LOL But everybody has a bad day from time to time. Hope the rest of your day goes better. Last edited by Driver72; 10-26-2009 at 06:28 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | ||
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![]() dash 08 and you....have fun u guys.... | |
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I have no interest in dealing with that kid anymore. Maybe someday he'll actually contribute something of worth to this forum. My time is too valuable to respond any further to his childish banter. But wait for it, it's coming from him........ | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score lol...LOL I just re - read AKbrazil's first post...LOL that fool, tool, spent 50 bills on a drop in filter yet he says he wants a mod that cost him nothing.....for another 50 to 100 bux he coulda just got a used sri or cai... MAZDAS247.COM.....there u go ... |
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| Air box mod - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum | This thread | Pingback | 05-28-2013 07:32 PM | |
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