HOW-TO: MAZDASPEED3 REPLACE CLUTCH

[chd_wtkns]

http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-mazda/ga6825744

http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-mazda/g05425421

http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-mazda/ga6725742

http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-mazda/gg3025155

[bhigdon101]

Originally Posted by chd_wtkns INNER SEAL | Genuine Mazda | GA68-25-744 SUPPORT BRACKET CLIP | Genuine Mazda | G054-25-421 OUTER SEAL | Genuine Mazda | GA67-25-742 BEARING | Genuine Mazda | GG30-25-155

so i will need inner and outer seals on both axles the bearing for both sides and the snap ring for drivers side?

and thanks for the part numbers.. could not find on mazda parts online.. but i can now..

[Stang Guy]

Is it a must to replace the flywheel? I believe I read that the Mazda3(2009 Mazda 3) flywheel cannot be resurfaced. Any advice? or should I just replace the flywheel also?

[bhigdon101]

Originally Posted by Stang Guy Is it a must to replace the flywheel? I believe I read that the Mazda3(2009 Mazda 3) flywheel cannot be resurfaced. Any advice? or should I just replace the flywheel also?

most kits come with flywheel...
unless u going back with all factory. .
then it is best to replace. .but it's very expensive. .so lots of people use a light flywheel with factory clutch ad pp..

[Stang Guy]

Ok! Where do you get a lighten flywheel? The cheapest I've seen for the replacement flywheel is around $220.

Thanks again for the help!

[AwAfrican]

thanks OP

@chemmedic; check it ouit

[silvapain]

The OE flywheel can be resurfaced, but being a dual-mass flywheel it's tricky and most machinists won't attempt it.

What flywheel you buy depends on what clutch & pressure plate you plan on running. Luk makes the OE flywheel and pressure plate, and Fidanza makes a lightened flywheel that works with the OE pressure plate. ACT's flywheel only works with their pressure plate. I'm not 100% sure about the rest of them.

[sheston]

I saw one response where they left the passenger axle connected. Is this a reasonable way to do it? Does this make it harder? It seems like that axle should pop out transmission when you pull the transmission toward the drivers side.

If you have experience doing it this way, let me know. Is this like removing the subframe.... makes it easier, or is it necessary?

Thanks,

[sheston]

@MATT DAMOND; any comments on just removing the DS axle to drop the tranny?

[AwAfrican]

Originally Posted by sheston @MATT DAMOND; any comments on just removing the DS axle to drop the tranny?

I know I'm not Matt.... Well I am, just not Damond. It may be possible to just remove the drivers side however personally I think it has potential to put undue stress on the passenger side, really its not hard to get out.

Why do you ask?

[sheston]

Just reading too many horror stories about axles getting stuck, having to use 4 or 5 methods to get them out, etc.

I guess I need to just quit acting like a baby and do it like the instructions above.... going to start tomorrow afternoon :-)

[AwAfrican]

I had an axel get stuck in a tranny, disconnected the wheel hub from the car, took it to a tranny shop, 50$ and 1 hr later it was out and I had them back

[MRR]

Very good information. I wonder how hard is it for the 6 with its AWD system.....

[nindoja]

Originally Posted by MRR Very good information. I wonder how hard is it for the 6 with its AWD system.....

Basically the same process, just get to pull the driveshaft and PTO off the car. Dropping the front subframe is definitely a good idea, although not strictly required.

[TiGraySpeed6]

I did my clutch as part of the engine swap, but recently helped a local do his clutch at my place. I'd encourage dropping the sub-frame (it's super easy ) as well as pulling the PTO. It's a great time to do the rear main seal and reseal your PTO as well if needed. Not very often, hopefully, that you're that deep so may as well do all you can while you're there.

Clutch Job

Also, can't encourage enough using the cardboard to remind you of the trans & PTO bolt location & orientation. Worth its weight in gold.

lower rear sub-frame enough to pull the lca's then you can pull the sub-frame easily, and then drop the drivers side shock assembly entirely so you have plenty of room to work. Do have a trans jack, out may be easy but back in again is another story.

[nindoja]

Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 Do have a trans jack, out may be easy but back in again is another story.

We use a trans jack to get the trans out, then we use @JgamB;'s retard dad strength to bench press the trans into place. Super simple.

Everyone should get a @JgamB; for clutch jobs. 10/10, would use again.

Unrelated, but what did you put on the end of your drill for the valve cleaning in that clutch job thread!?

[TiGraySpeed6]

Originally Posted by nindoja Unrelated, but what did you put on the end of your drill for the valve cleaning in that clutch job thread!?

Here ya go- the Harbor Freight special-

[nindoja]

Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 Here ya go- the Harbor Freight special-

Heh. Never thought about putting that on a drill. I like it.

[sheston]

Just replaced my clutch. 100% remove the sub frame. Use two floor jacks. I'm an idiot and didn't remove it until I got the tranny out....

Also, I couldn't get the DS axle out. Dropped it with the tranny. Couldn't even get it out after removed from car.

I guess I should have used @JgamB; retard dad strength. I had to balance it on a board on my floor jack. Oh yeah, have a strong friend help you :-) (I don't have any friends. Real beeaacchh to do by yourself)

[2 slo pu]

I'd say you used something to do it by yourself

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[JgamB]

Originally Posted by sheston Also, I couldn't get the DS axle out. Dropped it with the tranny. Couldn't even get it out after removed from car.

I'm also the designated axle puller. That is more technique than strength - a quick pop *straight* out gets them just about every time. Jarring it past that ring is much easier than torquing over it.

[jmen73]

Tapping the tranny with a 3lb hammer while pulling the DS axle worked for me. Amazing how one little ring can be so deceptively strong.

[sheston]

Thought I would just add a couple more notes to this sticky to help others:

I've been told that you should put a tie wrap around the slave cylinder to keep the piston from pushing out, when you remove it or it can cause damage.
I found that removing the clutch cables (and some wire bundles),which is very easy, from their brackets can help you get to the mounting screws to remove the brackets much easier
I will second and third the "remove the sub-frame" comments, ask me how I know. I left it in to remove the tranny, but removed it to put the tranny back
Don't put much grease, and wipe the excess off, the splined shaft. Otherwise you will fling grease onto your new, expensive clutch pucks and cause them to slip
I will just leave the driver's side axle in the tranny and remove together if and when I have to do this job again. Never could get that axle out, even when it was off the car
You can never have too many floor jacks
I didn't think to do it, but someone should add some pictures of the strut tab that keeps you from removing it from the hub. I bent the crap out of mine, not realizing that the tab kept it from going in too far or coming out
When you force the hub down to release it from the strut, it's not the CV joint in the axle that is fighting you, it the suspension rubber joints not wanting to move. I spent a lot of time on this step thinking I was ruining my axle that I couldn't get out of the tranny
Best advice would have been to find someone that has done it before to help..... :-)

[MRR]

Is the clutch of a MS3 and MS6 the same, meaning I can buy an MS3 clutch and install it for an MS6?
Looking at some adds, they offer the clutch for both cars. Some only for MS3 that is why I'm asking the question.

[Justinm44]

"We took the new assembly and the OEM assembly, bolted/torqued the PP to the FW on my counter, to find that the new PP was not set properly, by the PP fingers not being at the same height. It was a self-adjusting-PP, where it needs to be set to the new components, in a press. We installed the OEM components, and the car drove perfectly fine. The reason the clutch slipped in the first place… the rear main seal was leaking near where the oil pan gasket and the seal meet. "

I'm a little confused by this...

First do you mean you just used a new flywheel and clutch disc and the old oem pp?

And for the new pp needing to be set to the new components in a press. What do you mean by that?

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by Justinm44 "We took the new assembly and the OEM assembly, bolted/torqued the PP to the FW on my counter, to find that the new PP was not set properly, by the PP fingers not being at the same height. It was a self-adjusting-PP, where it needs to be set to the new components, in a press. We installed the OEM components, and the car drove perfectly fine. The reason the clutch slipped in the first place… the rear main seal was leaking near where the oil pan gasket and the seal meet. " I'm a little confused by this... First do you mean you just used a new flywheel and clutch disc and the old oem pp? And for the new pp needing to be set to the new components in a press. What do you mean by that?

The kit in question used a remanufactured OEM Luk self-adjusting pressure plate. The problem was that the self-adjusting mechanism was not properly reset when it was reman'd, so the fingers of the plate weren't aligned properly.

With a new pressure plate that's not an issue; it's in the right position already.

[ASPAIN]

Originally Posted by Stang Guy Is it a must to replace the flywheel? I believe I read that the Mazda3(2009 Mazda 3) flywheel cannot be resurfaced. Any advice? or should I just replace the flywheel also?

I need a new clutch and flywheel. WTF $3,600.

2012 MazdaSpeed 3, 73K miles. Need to find tech in So. Cal who can do it for 1/2 that. Any ideas, suggestions? Super

[AwAfrican]

Originally Posted by ASPAIN I need a new clutch and flywheel. WTF $3,600. 2012 MazdaSpeed 3, 73K miles. Need to find tech in So. Cal who can do it for 1/2 that. Any ideas, suggestions? Super

1) read rules and welcome mail, go make your intro thread.
2) I initially read milage as 373, and I was like wtf! How'd he kill his clutch. But curious my mate made it to 190k with stock clutch and 200 drag passes
3) I seem to like lists
4) not so cheap, as for cost, is that Mazda? Because they charge you an arm and a leg for a stock flywheel, you maybe able to reuse the stock flywheel at which point the stock friction plate from edge is pretty cheap.
5) as for local shop to you can't help there

[SLACer]

Great write up! Thanks, I will be using this for my clutch replacement

[aggatx]

Thanks Matt Damond for this how-to. It was awesome and it's the reason I joined this forum. I'd done a clutch replacement, engine rebuild, transmission rebuild on a Miata, and CV joints on a 1984 Dodge Colt GTS, but never a clutch on a FWD car. I was a bit intimidated.

I second, or third, or whatever the thanks on the bolt cardboard thing. I'm doing that forever now from now on.

I just finished the clutch change on my 2007, and I wanted to offer my findings hoping to help others looking to do this.

First, if you're too stubborn or stupid like me, and think you can do without removing the transmission without removing the sub-frame, just remove it. If you need a specific reason (in addition to everyone else chiming in about how easy it is to remove, and how much easier it is to put the transmission in without it): you can easily butcher your driver side driveshaft seal. Oh, if you do butcher it, don't go get the "national oil seal" brand replacement from your local parts store. It is not even close to the right fit or quality as the Mazda part. It was totally loose around the CV joint.

Second, to all those mentioning how hard it was to remove the DS shaft, you can do one of two things: Autozone has a puller attachment specially made for this, and a puller you can get on loan. I have to believe this is the easiest way. A puller kit is one of those special tools I'm very glad I've purchased. I highly recommend owning one. Having said that, I didn't feel like driving to Autozone, so I did it with the pry-bar as recommended. The only additional info I'd offer is that I wedged it in there, then I just pushed the driveshaft in with one hand, while kicking the pry-bar. This gives it some travel before it snaps out. Worked like a charm.

Third, on my 2007, you don't have to remove that brace to remove the sub-frame.

Fourth, get bungee chords (this was already mentioned, but get some more). I used all of mine to keep hoses, and brackets and such away while getting the transmission out.

Fifth, when putting the transmission back in, I found that removing the throwout lever bellows gives you a view of the input shaft tip, and this makes it super easy to setup your transmission jack or whatever to line up.

Sixth, I found myself having to play with the angle of the engine and transmission to get everything aligned properly. I couldn't find a trick for this other than to monitor the gap all the way around to make sure it was even.

Finally, your 12 year old can help by turning the crankshaft with a wrench while you guide the transmission in. I'm not sure if it does much to help ease it in, but my kid sure thought it was great helping dad do some wrenching.

[sheston]

As long as we're adding things, use your scissor jack to "push" the steering knuckle off the strut. When I did my clutch, I used the pry bar and BMFH method. The jack is so much easier

[monkey.bones.007]

Originally Posted by sheston As long as we're adding things, use your scissor jack to "push" the steering knuckle off the strut. When I did my clutch, I used the pry bar and BMFH method. The jack is so much easier

This also works with coil overs as long as they have a big enough lip on the spring perch. I just wish there was a way to push down on it to get it into the knuckle.

crapatalk it sucks for free

[sheston]

I've had good luck using the jack to push up the knuckle while wiggling the brake rotor. Popped back in fairly easy for me also.

[monkey.bones.007]

Originally Posted by sheston I've had good luck using the jack to push up the knuckle while wiggling the brake rotor. Popped back in fairly easy for me also.

I had a jack under the knuckle, that fucker didn't want to move even with banging.

crapatalk it sucks for free

[modusoperandi]

Thanks for the write up Matt, was a real helper when tearing apart my transmission to do the clutch & flywheel since my throwout bearing took a dip with it seizing & melting. Lol.

[burtonshredder]

Thanks for the write up Matt. I replaced my clutch following this thread and was able to drive home after 2 days. Now that my car is home it won't go into gear of course. I didn't put a strap around the slave piston when I pulled it off. Did I ruin the slave cylinder?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by burtonshredder Thanks for the write up Matt. I replaced my clutch following this thread and was able to drive home after 2 days. Now that my car is home it won't go into gear of course. I didn't put a strap around the slave piston when I pulled it off. Did I ruin the slave cylinder? Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

Is there fluid leaking out around the slave bolt? Carefully pull the boot of the cylinder - is there fluid inside the boot? If either is yes, then the slave seals are bad.


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[sdetweil]

i am working to replace an engine (broken rod thu the block) in my sons 2011 speed3.

I cannot get either ball joint bolt out.. so I have unbolted the lower arm from the chassis to get free movement.. that means I cannot get the axle straight.

I have the right side axle out of the tranny.
but the left side isn't moving.. i see using a jack might help on the way back in..

any tips? pulling the the engine & trans out the front. axles are the blocker at the moment.

[monkey.bones.007]

Big fucking hammer and a lot of grunting.

crapatalk it sucks for free

[AwAfrican]

Had a similar issues with @chemmidc; s tranny, ended up taking the transmission to a tranny shop don't know what he paid but it took them all of maybe 5min to get the axel out.

Other wise lots of hammering and grunting