HOW-TO: MAZDASPEED3 REPLACE CLUTCH

[silvapain]

I would say something that has a temperature range well above 300F, and a dropping point closer to 400F. Judging by the film on Clint's throwout bearing shaft, I'd say the grease used before had melted and lost it lubricating properties.

[GLORIFIEDBOZO]

Originally Posted by silvapain I would say something that has a temperature range well above 300F, and a dropping point closer to 400F. Judging by the film on Clint's throwout bearing shaft, I'd say the grease used before had melted and lost it lubricating properties.

Sweet, the valvoline synthetic grease I picked up has a dropping point of 500F. I think that was the highest temp stuff at the autozone I picked it up at.

[ms3blackmica]

excellent write up !!!

wish i would of seen this 2 years ago when pulling the trans on my friends ms3.

however, fwiw...i never removed the front subframe. i pulled the trans out with all that in place and had no issues although it does give you more room for comfort.

[himurax13]

What is a self-adjusting-PP? Could that be the reason why my OEM clutch is slipping in the first place?

[Raider]

Replacing clutch, at @MATT DAMOND's request, is moved to the general how-to.

I strongly urge those who use this how to as the basis for their clutch, go VIP here after.
HOW-TO: MAZDASPEED3 REPLACE CLUTCH

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by himurax13 What is a self-adjusting-PP? Could that be the reason why my OEM clutch is slipping in the first place?

A self-adjusting pressure plate has small springs and a ratcheting device in it to slowly move the pressure plate mating surface towards the clutch disc as the disc wears. This provides a more consistent clutch pedal engagement point and clutch pressure through the clutch lifespan.


Tapadatass

[aviator79]

What about the pilot bearing? does no one replace it? inside the crankshaft. How do you remove it anyways?

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by aviator79 What about the pilot bearing? does no one replace it? inside the crankshaft. How do you remove it anyways?

Buy the pilot bearing removal attachment for a slide hammer from AutoZone, and slightly grind down the fingers to get it to fit through the bearing. Then buy/rent the slide hammer and pop it out. You can use a socket to tap the new bearing in.

[aviator79]

So which way does the disc orient? Seems to me that it should orient the way the manual says, i.e. with the side with the spline that sticks out further facing the trans.
My point being u say the Manuel is wrong. My disc gives no indication on orientation.

[aviator79]

So I looked at the manual and it shows both orientations. One for the A65M-R manual transaxle, which you say is opposite and then one for the A26MX-R, which shows it the other way. So I assume we have the A26MX-R?

[silvapain]

The MS3 transmission is the A26M-R. The part of the clutch disc that sticks out goes towards the transmission side.


Tapadatass

[aviator79]

Originally Posted by silvapain The MS3 transmission is the A26M-R. The part of the clutch disc that sticks out goes towards the transmission side. Tapadatass

So like the 2nd attachment for the A26MX-R with the center inner splined shaft that sticks out further going toward the engine and the side where the springs stick out further toward the Trans?

So is the X in A26MX-R for the MS6 and the MS3 has the A26M-R?

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by aviator79 So like the 2nd attachment for the A26MX-R with the center inner splined shaft that sticks out further going toward the engine and the side where the springs stick out further toward the Trans? So is the X in A26MX-R for the MS6 and the MS3 has the A26M-R?

It's hard to see on my phone, but it looks to me like both attachments you posted have the clutch disc facing the same way; with the part of the disc that has the second plate the houses the springs facing the transmission.

I only have the MS3 manual on my computer so I can't verify, but it seems logical to me that since the MS3 is A26M-R, then the MS6 transmission designation would be A26MX-R.


Tapadatass

[Kfunk]

Excellent write up man. I don't have the balls to attempt to it but in saying that maybe I do now.

[AustinK]

Good work, no thanks. haha Great photos

[ms3blackmica]

Honestly the best part about this write up is the large peice of cardboard used for holding bolts and knowing exactly where they came from.

Something I had never thought to do before.

[Roddiy]

@Sid3wayS;


Think we can knock this off at an install day, or do you think it's better to find a good shop? I've looked around but can't find any good recommendations on shops that know their way around a speed3.




There's reacharounds in it for you of course.

[Sid3wayS]

Originally Posted by Roddiy @Sid3wayS; Think we can knock this off at an install day, or do you think it's better to find a good shop? I've looked around but can't find any good recommendations on shops that know their way around a speed3. There's reacharounds in it for you of course.

To do it comfortably id say an all day thing, just this, in my garage, definetly do-able. You can talk with big shayne also, he took it somewhere to get done and it came out good, and his is a pita 6

[Roddiy]

Originally Posted by Sid3wayS To do it comfortably id say an all day thing, just this, in my garage, definetly do-able. You can talk with big shayne also, he took it somewhere to get done and it came out good, and his is a pita 6

On paper it sounded hard, but after looking at the pics half the steps I've already done for my coils, the other stuff is just the ball-joint and perhaps the subframe.


I'll talk to shayne and see about his shop, but if anything I think I'm gonna wait until I build the motor, since the engine is gonna be out anyways, it'll be easier to do it then.

[Todd98SE]

Followed these instructions for my clutch swap this weekend. Great writeup and detail, thanks Matt. Personal observations would be to use a motorcycle lift for the front of the tranny AND a strap and hoist at the rear to get the tranny back in. I did this job alone and I needed both the lift and hoist to manhandle the tranny back into place efficiently. Also drop the subframe, you will thank yourself later.

[Dano]

Dropping the subframe is a must IMO. The extra 10 minutes is well worth it. I bought a lifetime alignment from my local shop for $30 extra. Little do they know how much my suspension has been taken out lately. Lol.

Well they know cuz I have been back 3x.


Tappin

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by Dano Dropping the subframe is a must IMO. The extra 10 minutes is well worth it. I bought a lifetime alignment from my local shop for $30 extra. Little do they know how much my suspension has been taken out lately. Lol. Well they know cuz I have been back 3x. Tappin

Hmm, @ekanddsm; figured out how to do it without dropping the subframe since the ACT clutch assembly is much thinner than stock.

[Dano]

being "able" to do it and doing it "easily" are two different things. Subframe in = taking it out is a PITA [this was with my ACT clutch] due to trying to get the diff to clear the subframe on the drivers side. At that point I pulled the frame cuz I didn't want to wrangle it back in there upon re-install which is always harder.

cudos if you can do it BUT is it worth the added effort and frustration. IDK... for me its not.

BTW I was on the floor no lift...if you have a lift and a tranny jack i bet its easy

either way, to each his own of course.

[DVM17]

So glad this was made! Great write up! Unfortunately, this will be the page I'll be on for a while. Stupid PP fingers....

[Ace Protege]

Originally Posted by Roddiy @Sid3wayS; Think we can knock this off at an install day, or do you think it's better to find a good shop? I've looked around but can't find any good recommendations on shops that know their way around a speed3. There's reacharounds in it for you of course.

I'd be down to help you guys if/when you get a clutch. They really aren't bad but I like to do them at a relaxed pace over a solid day.

[Sid3wayS]

Originally Posted by Ace Protege I'd be down to help you guys if/when you get a clutch. They really aren't bad but I like to do them at a relaxed pace over a solid day.

Totaly fucking agree. Appreciate the offer bro

[Ace Protege]

I've also got air tools and all that shit. Just no where to do it as I live in a tiny apt.

[Roddiy]

Originally Posted by Ace Protege I've also got air tools and all that shit. Just no where to do it as I live in a tiny apt.

Yeah so do I haha, air compressors are fucking handy

Originally Posted by Ace Protege I'd be down to help you guys if/when you get a clutch. They really aren't bad but I like to do them at a relaxed pace over a solid day.

Thanks man, ill be hitting you up for sure then haha

[ekanddsm]

Like john said, and someone else confirmed. you can do it without pulling the subframe, easier no, but doable.

When I do them, I have a lift and trans jack, I havent timed myself, but if I had to say, 4 hours including smoke breaks and its done.

The things I do different, I dont remove the subframe, pass side axle, starter, or knuckles. I only remove the lower arms and punch the drivers side axle out, brake caliper, and rotor stays in place......

There are 2 longer bolts for the bell housing. 1 goes by the clutch slave cylinder, and the other goes in by the 2 tricky ones by the turbo. The rest of the bolts are all the same that hold the trans to the engine.....

Overall nice write up....

Last time I did one, I didnt even remove the passenger side tire.

[Matrix311]

Thanks for the writeup. I'm putting my new southbend clutch in this weekend. This should help a lot with the install!

[scottlnt57]

I cant get the Photos to come up. Is it just me or are the images down. thanks

[Raider]

Maxed his bandwidth for the month. Go here
Mobile Photobucket

[MATT DAMOND]

Originally Posted by scottlnt57 I cant get the Photos to come up. Is it just me or are the images down. thanks

Fixed

[Majin~Nieve]

Noob here hope I'm posting in the rite place ,This is a great write up :0) it has helped me a lot, although I'm a bit stuck I can't seem to get the 3 bolts off to get the joint shaft off. I can get a socket onto the bolts but the ratchet is too big to fit and my ratchet wrench won't go all the way on the bolt, how did you get them off Matt or is there a way I can drop the trans without removing the joint shaft and I didn't take my k frame off ether doing this all on my own could use you guys expertise :0)

[Tomas]

There is no way to drop the transmission without taking out the joint shaft.
Try to be more concise in what your problem is. In one sentence you are saying the ratchet is too big and in the next one that ratchet won't go all the way to the bolt.
All you need to do is find the right combination of short extension and/or deep well sockets to get the right distance and clearance with the ratchet on those 3 bolts. If your tools don't fit there is nothing you can do but buy or borrow the necessary tools. If you got the bolts holding the tranny to the block on top of the engine I am sure you can handle those joint shaft bolts.

[Majin~Nieve]

Originally Posted by Tomas There is no way to drop the transmission without taking out the joint shaft. Try to be more concise in what your problem is. In one sentence you are saying the ratchet is too big and in the next one that ratchet won't go all the way to the bolt. All you need to do is find the right combination of short extension and/or deep well sockets to get the right distance and clearance with the ratchet on those 3 bolts. If your tools don't fit there is nothing you can do but buy or borrow the necessary tools. If you got the bolts holding the tranny to the block on top of the engine I am sure you can handle those joint shaft bolts.

Thank you for the little push I needed I figured it out and now continuing my project :0)

[Douggievee]

Awesome write up! Thank you!

[HawkeyeGeoff]

This will be happening sometime. Lets hope she makes it through EMWNM!

[ejtjeeves]

does anyone happen to know the part number for the Driveshaft Seals and Driveshaft C-Clip?

[bhigdon101]

Originally Posted by ejtjeeves does anyone happen to know the part number for the Driveshaft Seals and Driveshaft C-Clip?

did you happen to find the part numbers for them?