2010+ Mazdaspeed 3 performance air intake discussion

[_Toxic_]

I have the K&N SRI Typhoon... great quality no CELs, no problems yet. car runs great!

[guitarist302008]

Originally Posted by Speed3eak It's not a CAI actually - I got the typhoon SRI. I got a great deal on it ($171 with the heat shield), so that's why I went with it. It's way more expensive right now because the guy selling them jacked up the prices, so if I were getting an intake right this moment, I'd get either the cobb, cp-e, or SURE sri. There have been some issues recently with SURE, but street unit mark is a good guy and he's fixing the problem right now. FWIW, the K&N doesn't have an air straightener (which helps keep your fuel trims stable), and the MAF housing is metal, so it is possible that engine heat could still warm up the intake charge, but I don't have a way to measure this. I would get one of the silicone ones with an air straightener if you're just going intake. If you plan on getting a tune (short-term) and going big turbo (long-term), then it might be good to look into getting a 3"+ diameter MAF housing because you can tune for it and you won't have to get another intake when you have a bigger turbo pulling in all that air. I wouldn't get a cold air intake unless you're 100% certain you want one - the difference in gains isn't that great because the air is getting heated up anyway when the turbo compresses it. I'd save the money and put it towards a TMIC or FMIC which will make a bigger difference in BATs.

so I assume no issues with the Typhoon CEL wise then? Would you go with another intake over that if the others were the same price?

what TIP is everyone using if they do use the Typhoon?

[Speed3eak]

Using the stock TIP - no CELs so far.

Only have 3k miles with the typhoon in though.

The only thing I would change about it would be:

1.) Open filter - looks like this:


On the k&n kit I got, the top is closed, so it can only draw in air around the outside.

2.) Air straightener

I'm actually going to pick up an air straightener from haltech once he sends me the measurement for it, so I can let you know how that goes.

If there were the same price, I would be tempted by the heat shield, but would probably go with one of the other options in the end. But, like I said - If I was doing it all over again, I would just go ahead and get a 3" I.D. MAF housing and a k&n conical filter, along with a 45 degree coupler/reducer so I could use the stock TIP.

The corksport kit is great, but I like an oiled filter because oil carries with it a slight positive charge, so it can trap more particulate matter with the same porosity as a dry flow filter. If you don't overdo it with the oil, it really shouldn't get onto the MAF. Most people like dry-flow just to be safe though.

Really, just get one. They're all pretty much identical in terms of price and function. Cobb has the air straightener in the filter, so it makes it more difficult to find a replacement filter, so I'd go with either SURE or cp-e. My personal choice would be cp-e nano at this point, if I was going with a stock MAF diameter housing.

[rfinkle2]

i got a k&n and the maf housing machining was way too shoddy for me to even install the kit.

[guitarist302008]

Originally Posted by rfinkle2 i got a k&n and the maf housing machining was way too shoddy for me to even install the kit.

The CP-E is 330.... the Typhoon is 321... so about the same price... the Typhoon is showing a better power gain.


UPDATE: My parts guy can get me the Typhoon kit for 255.00 shipped... go for it?

By the way, if anyone else is looking for parts from places such as Turbo XS, or your other more name companies, let me know and i'll get you some pricing and i'll hook you up with him. He gets VERY good prices for me though and everything has always been excellent.

[DONOTBUGME]

actually the cp-e sri is 199, and read my post back on page two. For the tip look in my sig

[guitarist302008]

Originally Posted by donotbugme actually the cp-e sri is 199, and read my post back on page two. For the tip look in my sig

where is the CP-E 199? Their site says 329.00.

[DONOTBUGME]

cai is 329, sri is 199...MazdaSPEED3 Gen2 XcelNANO™ Air Intake
MMS32XN
$199.00

[guitarist302008]

Originally Posted by donotbugme cai is 329, sri is 199...MazdaSPEED3 Gen2 XcelNANO™ Air Intake MMS32XN $199.00

yeah, I didn't think the Nano picked up as much power as the other though.

[ridenfish39]

Don't believe all their dyno bullshit. All the intakes probably give you about 15 hp. If you want loud, get an aluminum tip, otherwise get silicone.
This discussion is starting to get old............

[guitarist302008]

ummmm... this is the intake discussion lol

[Click Here]

For whatever it's worth you can find the cpe products below their MSRP from their retailers. So unless you absolutely need to buy direct, you can find intakes like the Nano for below MSRP, AND free shipping. Example here:

CPE XcelNANO™ Air Intake for Mazdaspeed 3 - Revolution Performance Motorsports!

And to the guys shopping for an intake based on the dyno charts...don't. First, there's so much variance from each dyno, even if they're conducted honestly, you simply can't make any determinations from the numbers. You show me one dyno that indicates a 20 horsepower gain, and I'll show you another that shows 10 horsepower. Don't buy into the marketing game.

Second, any difference in actual horsepower gains between intakes are going to be mostly a function of a change in engine load, which is attributed to how the MAF sensor functions in the new MAF housing (which is actually moot once you start tuning). In other words, I can show you an intake that makes more power than the rest of the bunch, but my fuel trims might be jacked as a result. Trying to argue that a 5 horsepower difference between intakes is due to less bends, or less piping is ludicrous. It's ignition timing and boost folks...which is based on calculated engine load.

What you should care about in shopping for an intake are the average fuel trims reported from other people (use the search button!!), the quality of construction, and the appearance. If your fuel trims are close to zero and the intake is well made, then you bought a good intake. If you think Brand "X" used some magical process to make their aluminum pipe less restrictive than the others, well, you're beyond help, lol.

Originally Posted by smitty5788 SURE is much better quality than CPE. I have had them both in my hand.

Really?

I find it interesting that you failed to mention that you had to add silicone to the MAF housing in order to get it to seal properly.

Originally Posted by cpolly69 Mark, I don't believe any of the information you have posted there has to do with the problem. I believe the issue is the maf sensor leaking at the point at which the o-ring seals the air in...Smitty was able to add some rtv around his maf and stop the leak - fixing his trims.

http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...43/index2.html

So I'm curious to hear despite the sealing issues you encountered with the SURE intake, how it was still "much better quality" than the Nano? Honest question.

[guitarist302008]

Originally Posted by Click Here For whatever it's worth you can find the cpe products below their MSRP from their retailers. So unless you absolutely need to buy direct, you can find intakes like the Nano for below MSRP, AND free shipping. Example here: CPE XcelNANO™ Air Intake for Mazdaspeed 3 - Revolution Performance Motorsports! And to the guys shopping for an intake based on the dyno charts...don't. First, there's so much variance from each dyno, even if they're conducted honestly, you simply can't make any determinations from the numbers. You show me one dyno that indicates a 20 horsepower gain, and I'll show you another that shows 10 horsepower. Don't buy into the marketing game. Second, any difference in actual horsepower gains between intakes are going to be mostly a function of a change in engine load, which is attributed to how the MAF sensor functions in the new MAF housing (which is actually moot once you start tuning). In other words, I can show you an intake that makes more power than the rest of the bunch, but my fuel trims might be jacked as a result. Trying to argue that a 5 horsepower difference between intakes is due to less bends, or less piping is ludicrous. It's ignition timing and boost folks...which is based on calculated engine load. What you should care about in shopping for an intake are the average fuel trims reported from other people (use the search button!!), the quality of construction, and the appearance. If your fuel trims are close to zero and the intake is well made, then you bought a good intake. If you think Brand "X" used some magical process to make their aluminum pipe less restrictive than the others, well, you're beyond help, lol. Really? I find it interesting that you failed to mention that you had to add silicone to the MAF housing in order to get it to seal properly. http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...43/index2.html So I'm curious to hear despite the sealing issues you encountered with the SURE intake, how it was still "much better quality" than the Nano? Honest question.

good post... what i'm more after is what intake has caused the least amount of problems with throwing codes. The K&N seems to be less... from what I have searched and read anyway.

As far as the Nano and the standard CAI... that seems like people just want to be able to say they have a CP-E brand... what the point is of making the Nano vs. the CAI I don't quite get but, the prices on all of these things are quite high.

[guitarist302008]

I think i'm gonna go with the Nano... any issues with CEL's for those running them? It's asking if I want the water repelant pre-filer... do I? Or is that just the filter that I need?

[mghtymouse380]

Originally Posted by guitarist302008 I think i'm gonna go with the Nano... any issues with CEL's for those running them? It's asking if I want the water repelant pre-filer... do I? Or is that just the filter that I need?

For having a bolted evo you really dont know much. You dont need a filter cover on a SRI. It is just fine. Unless you submerge it, but by that time your whole engine is under water so it really doesnt matter. So just get the intake. I have it and have had 0 Problems.

[clowncar]

Originally Posted by guitarist302008 I think i'm gonna go with the Nano... any issues with CEL's for those running them? It's asking if I want the water repelant pre-filer... do I? Or is that just the filter that I need?

Would you just buy a fucking intake? Jesus Christ....

[guitarist302008]

Originally Posted by clowncar Would you just buy a fucking intake? Jesus Christ....

I did... and go fuck yourself

[mghtymouse380]

Originally Posted by guitarist302008 I did... and go fuck yourself

Make sure that you pay someone to install it so it gets done right.

[ridenfish39]

Originally Posted by guitarist302008 I did...

And......did it throw that cel you were so worried about????

[guitarist302008]

Originally Posted by ridenfish39 And......did it throw that cel you were so worried about????

don't know... it just got here today... I didn't have time to install it... had to finish painting the bathroom.

[ridenfish39]

Originally Posted by guitarist302008 don't know... it just got here today... I didn't have time to install it... had to finish painting the bathroom.

If you only got an intake check the clamp that holds the inlet pipe on the turbo. Mine, and many others, were loose from the factory.

[guitarist302008]

Originally Posted by ridenfish39 If you only got an intake check the clamp that holds the inlet pipe on the turbo. Mine, and many others, were loose from the factory.

ok, going to install it today, thanks for the tip.

[DONOTBUGME]

You do know that no matter what size the funnel is it will only flow as much as the straw it is attached to. Get a turbo inlet pipe.

[2010Speed3]

Originally Posted by donotbugme You do know that no matter what size the funnel is it will only flow as much as the straw it is attached to. Get a turbo inlet pipe.

Well put sir! I've had to explain to people why I got the TIP, and that's a great analogy!

[Speed3eak]

I'll be the first in line to get a TIP when someone can show a consistent gain in MAF g/s from adding one.

Until then I'll put that money towards something else. The increase in response time isn't really worth it to me, this turbo spools fast enough as it is.

[Silver Ecstasy]

No matter how much you increase in efficiency of flow on the intake side, there will always be the ECU to counter-adjust. Regardless of how retarded/stupid the stock TIP looks, it was designed for a reason. There's no reason a manufacturer would design a forced induction car that still needs decent MPG, then smash a kink in the air flow "just to be a dick" about it. Sort've like the "3 inch exhaust is too much for our stock turbos" conversation. That inlet/maf sizing may actually be completely perfect for the stock turbo/spool. The intake side opening up may help the most by accessing more air and easier.

On the 1st Gen I had with SRI/TIP, WG DC% was constantly "compensating" for the quicker spool of the TIP, or it not spooling fast enough per ECU calculations. In other words, WG DC% were in overdrive with my SRI/TIP. With just the SRI, wastegate activity remained civil and Boost was build and released with minor tweaks by the wastegate.

[Speed3eak]

I went out and got a crappy digital caliper from autozone, plus it was difficult to get a consistent reading - fluctuated up and down a bit.

K&N I.D. is 2.676" in photo, most likely 2.678" in reality.



Next on the list of to-do's is to measure stft and ltft, then maybe get an air straightener if I don't like what I'm seeing.

[DONOTBUGME]

I think the AEM air strainter is 2.5. I really want to to see the ltft/stft are for the K&N.

[indianaryan]

It doesn't look like there are very many people that are for the Corksport. It includes the TIP correct? What do the other intakes have that justify the extra expense? In my mind, if it works, I don't really care what it looks like. I understand that others might be higher quality, but I'm not really asking it to do a whole lot other than not throw codes.

[Nataphen]

The CS SRI+TIP combo is the best bang for your buck out of the popular choices. They are well built, maybe not quite as nice as CPE or Cobb, but still good. Almost everyone that has them is happy with them, and I doubt that you would ever be any more likely to have problems out of them than any other intake.

You should see the same gains from any of the three most popular choices, CPE, Cobb, CS. The CS is louder than the other two because it has an aluminum TIP, but that's about the only thing that's going to be different.

[indianaryan]

K&N filters aren't that much money by themselves. If someone wanted to they could replace the Corksport filter with a K&N oiled filter. I doubt anyone can really tell the difference between the two.

[BLK_MS3]

Originally Posted by indianaryan K&N filters aren't that much money by themselves. If someone wanted to they could replace the Corksport filter with a K&N oiled filter. I doubt anyone can really tell the difference between the two.

Why? Oiled filters are the worst ones. They can let oil get on your MAF which causes all sorts of issues. Dry is much better....

[indianaryan]

Originally Posted by BLK MS3 Why? Oiled filters are the worst ones. They can let oil get on your MAF which causes all sorts of issues. Dry is much better....

I was really just stating that someone COULD swap the filter if they really wanted an oiled filter. I'll admit that I don't know which is really better. I know there are pros and cons for each one.

I will say that I find it hard to believe that someone could get oil on the MAF sensor unless they doused the the filter in oil. If you only oil the outside of the filter, you shouldn't have a problem.

[BLK_MS3]

Originally Posted by indianaryan I was really just stating that someone COULD swap the filter if they really wanted an oiled filter. I'll admit that I don't know which is really better. I know there are pros and cons for each one. I will say that I find it hard to believe that someone could get oil on the MAF sensor unless they doused the the filter in oil. If you only oil the outside of the filter, you shouldn't have a problem.

It is a known issue to get oil on the MAF. The air suction is massive and the K&N is cotton based. Not to hard suck oil through it, and it takes very little to mess up an MAF. The dry filters are just safer, hence why SURE is making it an option too.

[Nataphen]

It is a matter of preference, but it is a known problem for an oiled cotton filter to get oil on the MAF sensor. I would recommend a dry filter, but it's up to the individual.

[indianaryan]

Originally Posted by BLK MS3 It is a known issue to get oil on the MAF. The air suction is massive and the K&N is cotton based. Not to hard suck oil through it, and it takes very little to mess up an MAF. The dry filters are just safer, hence why SURE is making it an option too.

I guess I would be wrong if I said it couldn't happen, because I know there are people out there that have had this happen to them. You're correct that a dry filter IS the safer option, hence the reason why most filters are not oiled. Still, the chances of getting oil on the MAF sensor have to be pretty low. That being said, I'll probably stick with a dry filter anyway. Like I said before, I doubt there is a noticable difference in performance.

[16-driver]

I got the corksport cause it was cheap and it included the tip. But I want to get rid of my tip cause the gains aren't really there and you get tired of the noise if it's your daily driver. I want to uninstall it cause it will make my demod much faster without it if or when I decide to pay the dealership a visit.

Pm me if you newbs want it for dirt cheat... Like pay the shipping and buy me lunch.

[clowncar]

I have a SURE SRI that came with an oiled filter and have not had any issues with it in the three months ive had it FWIW

[BLK_MS3]

Originally Posted by clowncar I have a SURE SRI that came with an oiled filter and have not had any issues with it in the three months ive had it FWIW

The oil issues usually come after time/and or a re-oil. Sure now has a dry filter option since many people didn't want a oil based filter.

[rfinkle2]

the website "bob is the oil guy" has a great air filter test (i.e. oiled vs dry) if you feel like reading.

Air Filtration Test