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 Old 11-14-2010, 07:53 PM   #41
 
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i just recieved my sure motorsports sri, and it is very nice..came packaged very nice and was all put together already just had to losen the hose clamps and install it, everything fits nice, lots of clearanace all around the sri nothing is in the way or close to it, filter seems to be the same length as my cp-e synoid filter, but the sure filter seems wider. the car is very responsive compared to my cai, couldnt tell the difference topend, but the car has alot more power down low now, same noise just seems louder now i guess since its right in the engine bay instead of by the foglight
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 Old 11-15-2010, 04:04 PM   #42
 
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Installed Cobb SRI today. Purchased from Velocity Factor in Boca Raton, FL. Opted for the upgraded Blitz filter. Cobb makes a very good quality piece directions were straight forward ( if required ) and very pleased with the performance upgrade car runs considerably better. And as many have said before you can finally hear the turbo.

Highly recommend the Cobb SRI. Pleased with Velocity Factor.
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 Old 11-17-2010, 03:25 PM   #43
 
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Originally Posted by Ckmazdaspeed3 View Post
If ur car has more than a few miles on it, unfortunately (I guess it depends on the dealer), but There is a very good chance It has seen that red line quite a few times. My buddy works for a Mazda dealership...did I say dealership, sorry I mean stealership... And they beat those new cars to shit!

Again, I am sure there are a few stealerships where this doesn't happen..
LOL! I had a choice of buying a 2010 w/140 miles however I decided to buy the '11 with 3 miles. It was about a $1200 difference in price. Only God knows what happened with the 140 miles on the '10. Not only do you have to worry about the dealership but what about the young ones test driving. My buddies and I were notorious for weekend test drives when I was 18....

Anyways, I was really leaning towards the K&N because of the dyno numbers, but now I'm quite interested in SURE's product after reading these posts. Any dyno #'s out on this yet?
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 Old 11-17-2010, 06:34 PM   #44
 
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I just instaled Sure Areos SRI and it seems to be very nice. I really can't compare it with other SRIs but this one seems to be great. It was bitch to install cause today was < 40 F, so hoses were really stiff, but overall it's great product nice sound and hopefully no CELs anytime soon :].
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 Old 11-29-2010, 06:19 AM   #45
 
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Bump because Im seeing more brown retards asking these questions ... how about we add some links to the op and make it a sticky?
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 Old 11-29-2010, 10:02 AM   #46
 
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Originally Posted by 2010Speed3 View Post
I've got the CorkSport SRI/TIP and I love it. Absolutely no CEL's or mechanical issues for about 2k miles. Install would have been hard if I didn't my grease monkey friend. But I don't think it would be any different for the rest of the SRI's. The only issue I'm having is my TurboSmart BOV is rubbing a tiny bit on the silicone part of the filter. I've tried a lot of adjusting of the silicone pieces, but nothing seems to work.
2010Speed3,

Does it damage either part? I'm wanting this same setup with the bov/sri and had heard they don't fit well together.
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 Old 12-05-2010, 12:05 AM   #47
 
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Originally Posted by EmmEssThree View Post
2010Speed3,

Does it damage either part? I'm wanting this same setup with the bov/sri and had heard they don't fit well together.
Actually, neither has any damage. The silicone takes it like a champ... I didn't really do much adjusting of the "L" shaped silicone cause I didn't wanna mess with it, but I'm pretty sure you could get it to not touch.
Off topic: I actually need some extra money right now, so I'm considering selling the BOV. PM me if you're interested, I can give you all the details.
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 Old 12-07-2010, 09:06 AM   #48
 
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Originally Posted by 2010Speed3 View Post
Actually, neither has any damage. The silicone takes it like a champ... I didn't really do much adjusting of the "L" shaped silicone cause I didn't wanna mess with it, but I'm pretty sure you could get it to not touch.
Off topic: I actually need some extra money right now, so I'm considering selling the BOV. PM me if you're interested, I can give you all the details.
PM'd, and thanks for the info!
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 Old 12-15-2010, 08:25 PM   #49
 
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FYI the addition of my CorkSport SRI/TIP has dropped the soot substantially on the back of the car. It was never "bad" in my opinion. But it was noticeable after a week. I'd say it was reduced approximately 65%.
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 Old 12-16-2010, 08:13 PM   #50
 
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Probably more like 63%.
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 Old 12-16-2010, 09:03 PM   #51
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61.2% officially

We received our CARB EO number today for the intakes.

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 Old 12-16-2010, 09:12 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by CorkSport View Post
61.2% officially

We received our CARB EO number today for the intakes.

-Derrick
so when's dat der FMIC going up ^_^
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 Old 12-16-2010, 09:12 PM   #53
 
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Hey, Derrick, if you use the CS koozie to insulate the SRI, does it drop IATs?
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 Old 12-16-2010, 09:15 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by AZRushki View Post
so when's dat der FMIC going up ^_^
The product listing is still under construction right now. I should have it finished up tomorrow. I need to check with our engineer Jake to find out when it will go live.

Originally Posted by Nataphen View Post
Hey, Derrick, if you use the CS koozie to insulate the SRI, does it drop IATs?
Yes they do!

Need a few extras?

My daughter decided to steal a bunch of them I had an she covered her arms and legs in them, it was really funny.

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 Old 12-16-2010, 09:24 PM   #55
 
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My daughter wears it for a bracelet all the time. I think I actually got to use it on one beer before she staked her claim.
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 Old 01-05-2011, 12:05 AM   #56
 
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I am dumping my K&N intake for the SURE. For the reason that it was not designed for the MS3, its just thier sport compact intake. The K&N has a huge bend almost 90 degrees and no air straitner like every other mazda specifc intake has. I have run the K&N for 12,000 miles with no cels though. Will post if there is any difference when I get the SURE towards the end of JAN...Red is backorder.
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 Old 01-05-2011, 09:36 AM   #57
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I'm torn. If you guys were to buy an SRI like now, what would you get. Sure or CP-E? I don't think I can go wrong with either?
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 Old 01-05-2011, 10:59 AM   #58
 
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SURE is much better quality than CPE. I have had them both in my hand.
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 Old 01-09-2011, 12:57 PM   #59
 
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can someone tell me what the hell is a TIP?
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 Old 01-09-2011, 01:15 PM   #60
 
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Originally Posted by guitarist302008 View Post
can someone tell me what the hell is a TIP?
Turbo Inlet Pipe
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 Old 01-09-2011, 02:20 PM   #61
 
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Originally Posted by MicaBlueMS3 View Post
Turbo Inlet Pipe
DUH!! I should have gotten that one lol... can't believe I missed it. I'm looking at intakes and searching around trying to find one that won't throw a cel.

thanks for the help btw.

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 Old 01-09-2011, 04:17 PM   #62
 
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ok so reading all of the posts here, is there a specific intake that is proven to not throw a cel or does it really all depend on the car itself?
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 Old 01-10-2011, 09:03 AM   #63
 
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The intakes that are designed specifically for the car, like CPE, Corksport, COBB, etc. almost never throw a CEL, but anything is possible. Many people that run the intakes without an air straightener never get a CEL either though.

The main thing to remember is to drive the car around normally for several miles to let the ECU adjust the trims for the new airflow. Some say just a few miles, but I think that it takes more like 75+ for the trims to totally settle down.

When I installed my catback, it took almost 100 miles before the car felt right again between 4-5k RPM, and that's less change than what an intake makes. Give it a while if it doesn't feel just right.
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 Old 01-10-2011, 04:25 PM   #64
 
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Originally Posted by Nataphen View Post
The intakes that are designed specifically for the car, like CPE, Corksport, COBB, etc. almost never throw a CEL, but anything is possible. Many people that run the intakes without an air straightener never get a CEL either though.

The main thing to remember is to drive the car around normally for several miles to let the ECU adjust the trims for the new airflow. Some say just a few miles, but I think that it takes more like 75+ for the trims to totally settle down.

When I installed my catback, it took almost 100 miles before the car felt right again between 4-5k RPM, and that's less change than what an intake makes. Give it a while if it doesn't feel just right.
thanks for all the info... I was close to ordering the SURE intake, but shipping is 24.00 minimum... and i'm just not paying that... which places sell one of the better intakes and don't have these outrageous prices?

On a side note... how about the K&N Typhoon intake? I read a guy that said he didn't have any CEL issues with his and that is an intake I could likely get quite a bit off of because it's for many other cars.

Lastly.. if I buy an intake and a TIP, will the car need a fuel pump with any further mods? Driving untuned with this is ok?, and lastly... would I need the RMM at that point as well? Sorry for all the questions... i'm not looking to go mod crazy, just to get the car a little closer to what I am used to.
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 Old 01-10-2011, 04:34 PM   #65
 
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RMM was my first mod, I highly recommend it. I have the CPE 75, but there are several good choices out there. You don't need a tune to run an intake, just let the ECU relearn the trims before you go balls to the wall.

I would give the SURE intake a little more time, there are a few people having issues with it right now. They will fix it soon, I'm sure. If you want one right now, I'd go with CP-E, Corksport, or Cobb. I don't know much about the Typhoon intake, but I'd go with one of the companies that I mentioned to be certain. They specialize in more Mazda specific tuning rather than run of the mill intakes.
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 Old 01-10-2011, 04:39 PM   #66
 
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Originally Posted by Nataphen View Post
RMM was my first mod, I highly recommend it. I have the CPE 75, but there are several good choices out there. You don't need a tune to run an intake, just let the ECU relearn the trims before you go balls to the wall.

I would give the SURE intake a little more time, there are a few people having issues with it right now. They will fix it soon, I'm sure. If you want one right now, I'd go with CP-E, Corksport, or Cobb. I don't know much about the Typhoon intake, but I'd go with one of the companies that I mentioned to be certain. They specialize in more Mazda specific tuning rather than run of the mill intakes.
so the RMM, intake, and TIP do not need a tune for the 2010's then? Just making sure i'm safe... i'd stay with that for quite a while.
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 Old 01-10-2011, 04:43 PM   #67
 
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No tune needed for that stuff.
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 Old 01-10-2011, 04:46 PM   #68
 
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Originally Posted by Nataphen View Post
No tune needed for that stuff.
excellent man, thanks for all of the answers, really appreciate it.
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 Old 01-10-2011, 07:55 PM   #69
 
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so many choices on the intakes... the cp-e's look nice, but 329.00? That seems really high, but maybe it's that much better... I don't know. I have read so many conflicting issues about the corksport throwing cel's that i'm not sure about them, but i'd like to get the CAI, the TIP and the RMM all from the same place if possible... unless someone else makes a better TIP and someone else makes a better RMM... any websites that sell multiple brands of the different parts? Is it possible I could just add the DP and TP instead of the intake and TIP right now, and add power that way, or will that throw codes too? I'm confused
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 Old 01-10-2011, 08:01 PM   #70
 
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go with the cp-e sri then, you can buy the rmm and tip from cpe.
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 Old 01-10-2011, 08:50 PM   #71
 
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Originally Posted by guitarist302008 View Post
so many choices on the intakes... the cp-e's look nice, but 329.00? That seems really high, but maybe it's that much better... I don't know. I have read so many conflicting issues about the corksport throwing cel's that i'm not sure about them, but i'd like to get the CAI, the TIP and the RMM all from the same place if possible... unless someone else makes a better TIP and someone else makes a better RMM... any websites that sell multiple brands of the different parts? Is it possible I could just add the DP and TP instead of the intake and TIP right now, and add power that way, or will that throw codes too? I'm confused
Yeah I definitely wouldn't do a DP without a tune, because you WILL get a CEL. I have the CorkSport SRI/TIP, UR test pipe, and UR catback and I don't have a CEL. If you want to do a couple of safe mods for now, go with the SRI and RMM. TIP is not entirely necessary if you are strapped for money. StreetUnit.com has a bunch of different products, but I believe they are the parent company of SURE.

I was just as worried as you were a 6 months ago. Just go with companies with solid products, and you won't be disappointed. Also, a lot of CEL's are caused by error in installation or leak somewhere. There's always support from the vendors and people on here!
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 Old 01-10-2011, 08:55 PM   #72
 
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Originally Posted by 2010Speed3 View Post
Yeah I definitely wouldn't do a DP without a tune, because you WILL get a CEL. I have the CorkSport SRI/TIP, UR test pipe, and UR catback and I don't have a CEL. If you want to do a couple of safe mods for now, go with the SRI and RMM. TIP is not entirely necessary if you are strapped for money. StreetUnit.com has a bunch of different products, but I believe they are the parent company of SURE.

I was just as worried as you were a 6 months ago. Just go with companies with solid products, and you won't be disappointed. Also, a lot of CEL's are caused by error in installation or leak somewhere. There's always support from the vendors and people on here!
wow, so you had the SRI, TIP, TP, and Catback and have had no CEL's at all? That's pretty interesting. Did you get a tune for these mods? If not, did you need a fuel pump for them? Just wondering at what power level that the fuel pump will be necessary.
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 Old 01-10-2011, 09:04 PM   #73
 
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Most people don't have any trouble out of the Corksport, just lots of people don't install them properly and blame the product. Corksport also has excellent customer service. They will work with you until you get everything working to your satisfaction.

CP-E and COBB have the highest quality products, but they are also more expensive. CP-E and COBB have great tech support too, so it's really all up to you. I can comfortably recommend all three of those intakes and companies to deal with.
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 Old 01-11-2011, 12:14 AM   #74
 
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Originally Posted by guitarist302008 View Post
wow, so you had the SRI, TIP, TP, and Catback and have had no CEL's at all? That's pretty interesting. Did you get a tune for these mods? If not, did you need a fuel pump for them? Just wondering at what power level that the fuel pump will be necessary.
I haven't gotten a tune yet, but I have the Cobb AccessPort on the way and I just have to wait for them to release the firmware update on it. (Check the ECU Tuning threads for more info) It's recommended to get a high performance fuel pump (HPFP) if you start tuning the car, so you can reach the maximum potential of the tune. It's imperative that you have a HPFP if you are running a DP though...

FYI, all that I just wrote was from my experience and reading things on the forum. I'm not an expert at tuning or modifying.
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 Old 01-11-2011, 12:22 AM   #75
 
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Originally Posted by guitarist302008 View Post
wow, so you had the SRI, TIP, TP, and Catback and have had no CEL's at all? That's pretty interesting. Did you get a tune for these mods? If not, did you need a fuel pump for them? Just wondering at what power level that the fuel pump will be necessary.
I don't mean to be a dick, but you should be able to find out that none of those things throw a CEL by spending some time reading around about them.

Intake doesn't cause a CEL if the MAF diameter is close/the same
TP doesn't cause a CEL because it's behind the second O2 sensor, same for the catback

Fuel pump is usually needed (on the stock tune) after intake+TMIC/FMIC+DP (on gen 1's actually, gen 2 seems to be more like after intake+TMIC/FMIC or intake+downpipe). Changing the second cat or behind the second cat doesn't seem to put enough of a strain on the fuel system to require a new pump.

If you plan on raising boost, you should get a fuel pump. Even with just an intake.

If you're wondering about getting a fuel pump, you should at least get a method by which you can datalog. fuel pump is needed if your fuel pressure falls beneath 1600 psi @ wide open throttle, regardless of level of modifications.
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 Old 01-11-2011, 11:10 AM   #76
 
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Originally Posted by Speed3eak View Post
I don't mean to be a dick, but you should be able to find out that none of those things throw a CEL by spending some time reading around about them.

Intake doesn't cause a CEL if the MAF diameter is close/the same
TP doesn't cause a CEL because it's behind the second O2 sensor, same for the catback

Fuel pump is usually needed (on the stock tune) after intake+TMIC/FMIC+DP (on gen 1's actually, gen 2 seems to be more like after intake+TMIC/FMIC or intake+downpipe). Changing the second cat or behind the second cat doesn't seem to put enough of a strain on the fuel system to require a new pump.

If you plan on raising boost, you should get a fuel pump. Even with just an intake.

If you're wondering about getting a fuel pump, you should at least get a method by which you can datalog. fuel pump is needed if your fuel pressure falls beneath 1600 psi @ wide open throttle, regardless of level of modifications.
well while we're on the subject... how do you like the K&N CAI you are using?
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 Old 01-11-2011, 11:20 AM   #77
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Dude, go with the Corksport intake. They all do the same thing and produce the same gains. The Corksport is the best deal at $240 since it comes with the inlet. It is a bit loud because of the aluminum inlet, but I like it. You really hear the bpv, even the stocker.
I have had it on my car for 15 k miles with no cel. The only problem I had was when I put the HKS bpv on I knocked the air straightener loose and it fell out into the filter. The car ran like shit until I figured it out, haven't had a problem since.
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 Old 01-11-2011, 11:27 AM   #78
 
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guitarist302008:
IF you are so worried about the FP then the first mod that you need to do is a HPFP and be done with it. Then you can go on your merry modding way. It isnt to early to do the fuel pump. All I have is a intake and a ETS TMIC and I upgraded my FP just to do it early so there would be no worries. And read man. No offense but you have asked the same questions like 10 times. Read and then choose. I am pretty sure I know why you dont have the evo anymore. Just pay attention.
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 Old 01-11-2011, 11:36 AM   #79
 
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We've all answered your questions, now quit being scared to touch your car, and move on. Mod it if you dare, don't if you're a bitch. There, I said it. You could have found all your answers by reading here, I'm tired of reanswering your questions.

Being a newb is one thing, but you're getting on my nerves.
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Originally Posted by guitarist302008 View Post
well while we're on the subject... how do you like the K&N CAI you are using?
It's not a CAI actually - I got the typhoon SRI. I got a great deal on it ($171 with the heat shield), so that's why I went with it. It's way more expensive right now because the guy selling them jacked up the prices, so if I were getting an intake right this moment, I'd get either the cobb, cp-e, or SURE sri. There have been some issues recently with SURE, but street unit mark is a good guy and he's fixing the problem right now.

FWIW, the K&N doesn't have an air straightener (which helps keep your fuel trims stable), and the MAF housing is metal, so it is possible that engine heat could still warm up the intake charge, but I don't have a way to measure this. I would get one of the silicone ones with an air straightener if you're just going intake.

If you plan on getting a tune (short-term) and going big turbo (long-term), then it might be good to look into getting a 3"+ diameter MAF housing because you can tune for it and you won't have to get another intake when you have a bigger turbo pulling in all that air.

I wouldn't get a cold air intake unless you're 100% certain you want one - the difference in gains isn't that great because the air is getting heated up anyway when the turbo compresses it. I'd save the money and put it towards a TMIC or FMIC which will make a bigger difference in BATs.
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