Hpfp tick with pressure issues WITH HPFP INTERNALS

[Juschiln19]

I need help. I have Autotech hpfp internals Installed for a few week now with no problem. And today I noticed a tick and traced it back to the hpfp. And if u put ur hand on the hpfp housing u can feel the tick thru the housing. It didn't do this before. I'm going to take apart tomarrow to look for anything out of place. I'll upload a video I shot. Its lound. I've read hpfp tick is normal but to check the logs for pressure issues. So I took a drive and had my Torque app open and noticed in one of my stops( I take a screen shoots of gauge screen) my fuel pressure dropped below 300 psi and on the same pic the ATF dropped below 10 around 9. I think that's really bad right??? Please help this is my dd. I have it parked now. But need it back asap. Some people on Facebook mazdaspeed 6 group suggested the fuel pressure relief valve. But want to be completely sure before I drop $150. And I rebuilt the pump again and made sure I followed the instructions to a T and the tick went down in noise level but it's still lounder then the valve train and stands out. And u can still feel the tick thru the housing... I called the maker Autotech and they said this:
the internals were actually made for the fwd audi' and vw's and they do fit the mazdaspeed but was not made for it. He also said that they don't have first hand experience with the mazdaspeeds but that the awd audi's and vw's that do use the internals, the pump seems to be a little lounder. But then said that the noise shouldn't be any lounder then stock unit...? But he said if it wasn't noticeable from the beginning but has become a noticeable sound that I should remove and inspect. he also said to inspect the cam follower. I asked about that because I read the mazdaspeed don't have that problem with cam follower going bad often. He said he recommends his audi and vw owners to check the cam follower every other oil change... but that he doesn't have first hand experience with the mazdaspeed. so I'm just going to have a peek while im in there. He said if all looks well but still has a noise he says put the factory internals back in and see if that resolves it. ????
So I checked the cam follower it's good checked all surfaces on the internals all was good rebuild still have pressure issuse. anyone know the fix or if it is the relief valve. I need some info asap since whatever it is will probably have to be ordered and car has to site for another week... I saw a YouTube video of doing a data log of the hpfp actual pressure. But the o ly thing I see on torque is fuel rail actual pressure. I assume that mean I can't do the test it won't have right results right... please help. And I've been reading posts about this for about 3 to 4 days like every chance I get to find solution only coming up with fuel relief valve but haven't found a way to test it (since the torque app doesn't have hpfp actual pressure)..
The pictures are from top to bottom = before and after recleaning. Top 2 are of cam follower

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I Really Appreciate Any Help Thanks

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[anavrinIV]

Jesus.

Full pressure is under some kind of engine load. If you're engine braking and you hit 300...fine. They all do that.

When you floor it (on a stock map?) your AFRs dip. Some maps/setups they'll go into the 9s.

We need actual logs no screen caps of torque.

[Vansquish]

First things first, do you have a tuning solution for your car? If not, you need to get one ASAP, as you've got a larger-than-stock MAF housing, aftermarket fuel pump internals, an aftermarket intercooler, and an aftermarket 50/50 BPV, none of which are doing you any real good without a tune that compensates for the additional flow your engine can now generate.

As for your AFR, if you're on the stock tune, the ECU will command the car to run rich at WOT, sometimes even below 10:1 AFR higher up in the rev range. That's normal.

With respect to your HPFP internals, without a datalog that includes information about engine load, boost, mass airflow g/s, RPM, etc, as well as your HPFP actual pressure (fuel rail pressure) it's nearly impossible to determine what is going on. Based on the images you provided, it looks like you let off the gas between gears and you're seeing fuel pressure drops that are commensurate with what I would expect at idle (~400ish psi).

If your car cannot maintain fuel pressure under load, or at idle, then you've got a failing High Pressure Relief Valve on your fuel rail. It makes a loud ticking noise when it fails. You can test it by performing the KOEO fuel pressure test that has been discussed ad nauseam on MSF in the past.

Edit:

Also, what in the flying fuck are you talking about in that video? It seems about as relevant as the size of Donald Trump's pussy-grabbing hands.

[Juschiln19]

I have versatuner but after I did oil filter conversion kit the oem oil cooler.bolt backed itself back out and blew all my oil blew out. So was waiting for compression test before I moved forward since a base tune and versatuner adds hp. And as for maf and bov came with car. I thought the maf was same as stock. And as for bov after alot of reading found of u only run 50 50 or less then stock map is ok. As for intercooler my understanding was it raises the k ock point so u have to tune for it but ur not utilizing it fully. And I thought u didn't tune for hpfp. I talk to people when purchased it they said no worrys. As for video should be of looking at hpfp and hear noises if not my bad...

[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by Juschiln19 I have versatuner but after I did oil filter conversion kit the oem oil cooler.bolt backed itself back out and blew all my oil blew out. So was waiting for compression test before I moved forward since a base tune and versatuner adds hp. And as for maf and bov came with car. I thought the maf was same as stock. And as for bov after alot of reading found of u only run 50 50 or less then stock map is ok. As for intercooler my understanding was it raises the k ock point so u have to tune for it but ur not utilizing it fully. And I thought u didn't tune for hpfp. I talk to people when purchased it they said no worrys. As for video should be of looking at hpfp and hear noises if not my bad...

The only noises in the video are you talking about how many bolts aren't in the HPFP housing...

The OEM MAF housing is 2.5" in diameter. Your 2.75" intake has an approximately 21% larger cross sectional area. You need to calibrate your MAF sensor to get accurate readings of airflow. Moreover, without a properly-scaled MAF sensor, you cannot properly tune your car, as load calculations are based, in part, on airflow.

If you've got Versatuner, take a datalog of whatever behavior you're trying to diagnose and post it here. I don't know why you haven't done that already...

[Juschiln19]

Ok so sorry about the post my phone was messing up and I got a little frustrated.... lol

Anyhow I fixed the video not sure why it don't just load up so u can watch it without downloading it.... I'll measure the maf housing tomarrow ad I thought it was stock size. When I fixed my signature I was pretty tired and it was right before bed .. but the car ran great before the oil blew out with the maf on it. So why would I question it right. Same with bov set to 50/50. I did some reading on it, just in case. but the car ran great so why would I question it. And as for the versatuner. The car has had needs that have stopped me from moving forward in the way of bolt-ons and tuning and what not....The transfer case went out shortly after purchase. Then just recently the clutch went out... among a bunch little things.. so I didnt want to be another jackals that just throws a bunch od upgrades on a car that's not mechanically sound or ready for it.. so I waited... the only reason I bought versatuner as early in the timeline as I did was because there was a group buy and a discount. To be honest I'm not sure it's evan the stock tune. The only reason I have to think it is, is because the torque app says my max boost hitting I'd 15.9 almost 16psi... so anyhow it didn't seem smart to add power to my car (via tuning it with versatuner). Just to be able to data log. which if something was way off could blow your engine.

Still don't get how this fixes a tic that's comes from within the fuel pump???? Not down the way(Fuel relief valve location) watch the new video... still need to know how to upload a log so u can get full access

[Omega]

Oh noes my HPFP goes into 200's under engine braking my shit's going to explode.... You do realize the lower the AFR the richer the mixture right? Meaning it was going more rich going to 9 from 10, not really a bad thing... On stock tune it dips into 9's quite a bit (I used to dip into 8's).

The tick is normal, you replaced a part that is driven by an engine cam lobe that smacks it... With one with a hardening material applied, the tick is well known it's not terribly abnormal unless your HPFP pressures are actually fucked.

Also if you read the point @Vansquish; is making is that if your MAF diameter is wrong, the calculations are based on air entering the motor.... Meaning your AFR's are going to be way the fuck off anyway because it can't accurately measure the correct amount of air, he already explained that.

[Juschiln19]

I appreciate the info. And I still haven't confirmed it was under engine braking.... also i didnt realize that mean its going rich... whoops... maybe thats why everyone acts like i jumped the gun by parking it. And i get the maf housing thing.. it's just bugs me, you ask a question and people start beating you up about some bs in you signiture. Like I said I'm not sure it bigger then stock I thought the maf housing was stock size. I think I put the number in my signature wrong. The housing came with car and it drove great so that's why I never worried about it and further more I still don't know if it's on stock map. The only indication it is, is my boost peaks at 15 ish psi which is around the stock number so I assume it's on stock map. You can tell the person before me stocked it out before selling it. So I don't know how else to comfirm what map is being run right now....

[GroceryGtr]

autotechs run extremely loud compared to stock, especially right before/around tip in point(some call it a rattle). Audi/VW had followers that we made too soft and they ended up releasing a tsb to correct the premature wear. MSs were made from a hardened metal so you shouldn't have any issues unless you go to stiffer valve springs. As long as you are staying above 1700psi under WOT you should be fine.

As far as the tune go ahead and throw it on, just stay off the throttle if you're worried about your engine for the time being. It doesn't add hp/stress unless you press the pedal . Then you know what its running and you can get some proper logs for people to review and comment on.

[Juschiln19]

Thanks buddy. It nice to get advice without the unneeded comments lol.. I appreciate the helpful advice. This thread is about a month old. I should have put a conclusion.

So conclusion.
I did add the versatuner with the 91 base tune. And took a couple logs. I looked at the logs and they look good. I'll upload 2 logs, one 3rd gear and one 4th gear. I am currently writing a build thread. You can follow it here:
06 MS6 - Stock Block/Internals Build - Pushing The Limits

The people that offered advice here followed me to my build thread a blow it up. So basically the rest of the conversations finish on my build thread. I haven't updated my thread for a minute as of like a week or so ago. Just all the sarcasm starts to ware on you after a while you know...
So here are the logs...