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 Old 06-10-2012, 01:51 PM   #1
 
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Default 2003 Mazdaspeed Protege vacuum hose routing....HELP!!!

Hey everyone. been on the forums for a while. ive got a 2006 mazdaspeed 6 for a DD. Love the car. Yesterday i picked up a 2003 Mazdaspeed protege for a project car. the previous owner did some "performance" mods to the car. aem cai, charge tubes and what looks to be an ebay bov. heres the problem. he changed just about every vacuum hose on the car and replaced them with cheap blue silicone hose. they are all routed weird and i dont believe they are hooked to the right place. the car surges and bucks when you get to 3500-4000 rpms so bad you cant even hold the gas. as long as u dont go above that rpm it drives "ok". i need to know where all the solenoids and such hook to. the vaccumm hose diagram isnt very clear under hood. it gives sensor names but its a vary vague, if someone could help me out and take pictures under hood of all the connections i would a[[reciate it. i will upload pics of underhood soon. thanks in advance.
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 Old 06-10-2012, 03:52 PM   #2
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I know there are just a few msp's here. Hate to do it, but check this out.
Check this out
wiring harness and vacuum hoses
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 Old 06-11-2012, 05:03 AM   #3
 
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Hey thanks raider. thats a ton of help. the factory diagram on the hood shows all that stuff, but it gives solenoid names and i had no way to tell which one was which on the motor.lol one more question though. does the wastegate actuator line go directly to the intake or is it supposed to go to something else first. i thought there was a boost control solenoid on the motor. maybe not. havent been out to look at it. wont get time till later today. car runs good up until 3500rpm then bucks and kicks. the kid before me has the lines for the recharge hooked together, but no recharge valve.lol he has aftermarket charge pipes and an ebay bov on it.lol i have a lot of sorting out to do.lol
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 Old 06-11-2012, 05:28 AM   #4
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Recharge valve, like a/c recharge, or do you mean bypass valve for the turbo? Pics?
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 Old 06-11-2012, 08:20 AM   #5
 
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Yeah. Bypass valve. Just normally hear the local Subaru guys call it a recharge. Lol I know the proper name is bypass. I will upload some pics tonight.
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 Old 06-11-2012, 08:49 AM   #6
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Wow, that is fucking stupid! Where are you located? If in Jax, FL, I can help.
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 Old 06-11-2012, 08:53 AM   #7
 
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Damn subaru guys. They call it recharge valve cause they think its a stage 3 weight reduction and 100+awbhp upgrade..
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 Old 06-11-2012, 03:52 PM   #8
 
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I'm in upstate NY. Way upstate.....like 50 mins from Montreal,Quebec.lol and yeah, Subaru guys are retarded. I work with a kid who thinks subarus are the end all be all of automotive perfection. They are junk.lol but he drives a wrx so thinks he's a racecar driver.

But if anyone can help with this situation I.appreciate it.

Quick question. On the msp, does the vacuum line for the wastegate go directly to the intake manifold. Or somewhere else? I know my speed 6 has a boost control solenoid in there.
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 Old 06-11-2012, 07:29 PM   #9
 
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This is the only picture of the engine bay I have. See the mess of hoses? Cheap weak silicone hose. Not the good stuff.what a mess.
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 Old 06-12-2012, 06:33 AM   #10
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I got a local MSPer coming on to help. I see the BPV though, so it is there. Looks VTA for the F&F sound.

Do you know how much boost you are running? Might be hitting boost/fuel cut.

Look for @StealthWyvern to be here soon.
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 Old 06-12-2012, 07:44 AM   #11
 
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I can provide picks a little later on today when I get off work for you.


Edit:

WTF is up with that tube going from your cold pipe to your intake... that shouldn't be like that.. That should be on the BOV for recirc or capped off on both sides.

The WGA vac line is supposed to be on the intake manifold or at least stock.

Also you don't mention how much boost your running.. we NEED to know that. Whats your vac at idle with the AC off? it sounds a lot like boost/fuel cut to me if your over boosting.



Edit #2:
Also im surprised you dont have issues with the car wanting to stall out when shifting or coming to a stop. You need to A) recirc that BOV back to the intake or b) relocate your MAF to your cold pipe.

Here is my setup.. you cant see my BPV (set vta) due to it being under intake




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 Old 06-12-2012, 07:53 PM   #12
 
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Ok. Lemme clarify a few things cause I guess I forgot some info.

The tube from the cold pipe to the intake was looped like that when I got it. The idiot kid.before me did it. I'm in the process of fixing that. I'm gonna put a bypass valve back on and remove that dumb bov.

I do have stalling problem when coming to a stop and such. Another reason to go back to bypass.

There is a greddy boost controller/turbo timer in the car. It is hooked up to only read boost right now though. It's not hooked up to control the wastegate. So today I took a trip to observe a few things after I rerouted some vacuum lines correctly and fixed all vacuum leaks. I get the car goin down the road, I look at the boost contoller readout and it kept climbing all the way to 60lbs. So I think I found my fuel cut problme. Faulty wastegate. I'm probably gonna order the Atp non adjustable replacement one.
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 Old 06-12-2012, 08:22 PM   #13
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60 lbs? That is faulty if anything. Take that MBC out to sort the rest of the problems. Funny about the stalling. The EGR on the msp and 3rd gen protégés can get clogged, and cause idle issues. There is a how-to floating on the web on cleaning it. Battery removal helps. 2 bolts up to the intake manifold. They are torqued to 900 lbs from the factory, lol!

One thing to look to do is the 626 intake manifold mod. 12 hp bolts up. Removes VTCS, known to suck.
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 Old 06-13-2012, 03:31 AM   #14
 
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60lbs... tha def would of went zoom zoom boom already..... Also what is your vac at idle with the ac off beings that you got all the vac leaks fixed. Also is the WGA even hooked up properly? Did you take the vac line off the intake manifold thats going to the wga and blow into it? You shouldn't be able to pass any air through the line.
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 Old 06-13-2012, 05:09 AM   #15
 
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The wga is hooked up directly to the intake. The boost controller is only hooked to show boost and vacuum. The other line that would hook to the boost control solenoid and wga isn't hooked up. And it definitely hit 60lbs but its only for a second because as soon as it hits it hits fuel cut. As soon as I realized what it did I let off anyways. I don't plan on modding this car until I get it running right. If I had the stock airbox and Intercooler pipes that would.be even better. But they didn't come with the car.
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 Old 06-13-2012, 06:27 PM   #16
 
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So I double checked vacuum lines today and made sure my boost controller was set on PSI and not kpa. It's definitely not a bad readout. I took the gauge out of my speed six and it maxxed the gauge out as well. So I'm pretty positive now its the wastegate actuator. Gonna order on up tomorrow or Friday. After that....there's still a ton more work to be done.lol thanks for all the help guys!! BTW, who's in the upstate new York or Vermont area?
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 Old 06-13-2012, 06:33 PM   #17
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60 lbs on a stock block? You would have spit out a piston.
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 Old 06-13-2012, 07:13 PM   #18
 
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why not recirc the bov instead of going with the bpv
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 Old 06-13-2012, 07:24 PM   #19
 
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I think if it was driven it would blow rather quickly. I only went a mile or so and it only got into boost once. I'm gonna replace the wastegate and I'm pretty sure it will fix the problem.

And I don't want to use the bov as a recirc mainly because I'm 90% sure its eBay crap. So if I'm gonna replace it I'm gonna get a bypass valve so it runs and idled as it should.
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 Old 06-14-2012, 07:17 PM   #20
 
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The boost controller is not hooked up. I stated that earlier in the thread. Just the readout side is hooked up. The boost control solenoid is not hooked up at all.

The hose from the charge pipe the the intake is where the bypass valve should be but the previous owner looped it when he installed the new charge pipe with blow off valve port. That is all going to get fixed. But the looped hoses have been plugged. That's a picture from the day I brought the car home on the trailer.

And I'm hoping the boost spikes haven't hurt the motor. We will see when the new wastegate and bypass valve get here. I'm gonna put this car back to stock to get it running properly. All except the aem intake as I don't have the oem stuff.
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 Old 06-14-2012, 07:26 PM   #21
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Ok, I am not sure how clear I can be. 60 lbs is not possible without it blowing up. We got built motors running 23-28 lbs. 60 lbs means pop.

Your motor is not getting 60 lbs of boost on your motor.
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 Old 06-15-2012, 08:42 PM   #22
 
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I'm just going by what I saw. I know it pegged my 25psi gauge out of my speed six. The boost controller readout said 60. Idk if it is 100% accurate, but I know it is way overboosting and hitting fuel cut. So when the new wastegate actuator gets here we will see if it is accurate. But it won't move until I get this sorted. And if it blows up. Then I will build a motor for it. No biggy. It's a project. I just hated to see a once nice car die because of a punk kid.

When I know more on the situation I will update.
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 Old 06-16-2012, 10:22 PM   #23
 
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The stock 2554r can't hit 25 psi as it runs out of steam around 15psi, so there's something wrong. perhaps the boost gauge is hooked up after a check valve or something.

Start with rerouting the vac lines for the WGA and The BPV/BOV.

From factory, the vac lines come straight from the manifold, for both the BPV and the WGA.

Then i'd clean the MAF. and either route it after the BOV or run a BPV and recirc.

As Raider said, the EGR is known to clog, be prepared to be frustrated taking the two bolts off. chances are if it hasn't been doen yet the bolts will break.

Depending on the type of BOV that is, you might be letting unmetered air in during idle thus causing the stall.
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 Old 06-24-2012, 05:14 AM   #24
 
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Well guys I got her sorted out and running like a champ. Lemme start by saying my boost pressure numbers were wrong and I found out y. Up under the dash in the line running inside was a check valve/filter thing. It was making the readings go haywire.

I removed the ebc from the car. I installed Tue new Atp wastegate as it was bad. I tested it with some compressed air. No movement. I hooked the wasregate reference line to the nipple on the bottom of the Intercooler so it never sees vacuum, only pressure so no more failures.

I replaced every vacuum line on the car and removed the bov. I put a bpv setup back on it. She now.holds 7 pounds of boost consistenly and pulls 22-23 inches of vacuum at idle. She runs great. Not as mug power as my speed 6, but Damn peppy for a small car.lo

Thanks for all the help guys. I appreciate all the positive responses and no dumb remarks that some forums give. This seems like a good community with good people willing to help. Thanks again.
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 Old 10-18-2012, 10:12 AM   #25
 
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Exclamation Same problem, same car, i need to ask you for help.

Hey, I picked up a 2003 msp and after reading your posts, i have the EXACT same problems in the cars performance. Vacuum lines are hooked up incorrectly, and the stock diagrams are pretty confusing. Due to these problems, about a month ago, i actually blew a hole in my engine. I now have the car running again, did a complete engine swap, but i need help with these damn vacuum lines. there's a boost controller installed, but only the sensor, not the solenoid valves, and because all the instructions are from oem settings, im confused as hell. if you could contact me in any-means, cell, email, so i could get a little one on one with you about how you fixed yours, i would truly be in your debt.
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 Old 10-18-2012, 10:40 AM   #26
 
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Originally Posted by themallett View Post
Hey, I picked up a 2003 msp and after reading your posts, i have the EXACT same problems in the cars performance. Vacuum lines are hooked up incorrectly, and the stock diagrams are pretty confusing. Due to these problems, about a month ago, i actually blew a hole in my engine. I now have the car running again, did a complete engine swap, but i need help with these damn vacuum lines. there's a boost controller installed, but only the sensor, not the solenoid valves, and because all the instructions are from oem settings, im confused as hell. if you could contact me in any-means, cell, email, so i could get a little one on one with you about how you fixed yours, i would truly be in your debt.
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send him a private message so he gets an email notification. this thread is pretty old i doubt he would check on it
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 Old 10-18-2012, 08:53 PM   #27
 
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i appreciate the idea, unfortunately, i cant pm anyone till i get 13 more posts, but i dont want to just spam the shit out of this site. ah well.

13

12

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 Old 10-19-2012, 09:33 AM   #28
 
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Originally Posted by themallett View Post
i appreciate the idea, unfortunately, i cant pm anyone till i get 13 more posts, but i dont want to just spam the shit out of this site. ah well.

13

12
well then you better get to posting
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2012 MS3

Stratified 91

Cobb AP | UR FMIC, TP, CBE | Autotech Internals
Forge v2 BPV | Denso ITV22 | SURE Aeros Full3 ID283*
JBR 88a RMM/TMM, 70a PMM, OCC, RSB, TIGs, Coolant bypass, EGR delete, Bushings, Knob
Aeroforce Interceptor | Defi Boost gauge

*Product is advertised as ID300
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 Old 10-19-2012, 10:00 AM   #29
 
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 Old 04-12-2013, 08:27 PM   #30
 
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Thanks for the interest in the thread. Sorry for not checking in on it.winter time,car Ed in storage, new baby. Lots going on. Didn't think to check the forums. I will update progress on the car soon. I will also pm you mallett.
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