What does an MS3 need to trap 110mph?

[flogbox]

I have a TBE, TurboXS SRI, TurboXS hybrid BOV, dyno tuned Xede @ 17psi which falls to 16.5psi by redline.

Last time at the track, the shitty driver (ie me) managed a 14.2 @ 104mph with a 2.4 60' filled with wheelspin because i had 35psi in the tyres instead of 25psi (looked at the wrong side of the gauge, oops). After the first run the car heat soaked so bad i lost a LOT of power and mph dropped considerably. I think in cooler air and with a decent launch the car is capable of a 105 and possibly a 106mph run.

I would really like it to trap 110mph. I am thinking of putting on the TurboXS FMIC kit because they are local in Australia and everyone seems to like it. If i added this plus upped boost to 18-19psi, do you think it would be enough to add 4mph on my trap speed? Should i go the ETS TMIC instead and would that provide more benefit than the TXS unit? FYI I don't plan on upgrading the turbo and no fueling issues. A/F is 11 and no lean spots.

Cheers

[Haltech]

Mate, with your mods, you should already be trapping 110! Infact, pretty damn close to 114-116 range.

Tires are obviously your down fall besides the heat. What is your elevation out there? If oyu can get dry ice, i would wrap it in a wet down and place it on the IC during staging. Otherwise, just use regular bags of ice and fill a spray bottle up with water and spray the IC before the run.

[flogbox]

When i did that run it was fairly warm around 88F. Elevation is 230'.

Traction is an issue yes. I put 225's on about 6 months ago but that was before i started modding, now i wish i'd gone 235 semi slicks. Maybe next set. Also, i want to run 110 on normal street tyres.

I think 110 would be a bit of a stretch, even with ice and in the middle of Winter.

The reason i ask is that a mate has an RX7 series 8 with exhaust, Power FC, upgraded FMIC. He took me for a burn and my eyeballs were going into the back of my head LOL. On the road from 60 - 110 or so he managed to put a full car length between us. He takes the car out on the circuit but hasn't run down the 1/4 yet. Apparently cars with similar mods are tapping 110mph so that's what i'd like to aim for. Or is it just a case that the RX7's feel MUCH faster than they really are?

[SgtP]

The car runs better than that stock. You should at least be 13.5 if not lower. 110s all day. Just keep practicing launching and make sure you are powershifting.

[sleeper3]

actually, that's not a horrible 60' time, and usually the better your launch is, the lower your trap speed will be... scan your time slip and post it. maybe we will be able to see something that would help. with those mods, you should be running extremely fast times. I'm on the stock tires with only a top mount intercooler, cold air intake and motor mount and I ran a 13.5 last time I was at the track @ 104 mph. you should be way faster than me.

[Laloosh]

I trapped at 111 with i/catted tbe/18psi/fuel pump

[BlackMS3]

Tires...........

[sleeper3]

Originally Posted by BlackMS3 Tires...........

and an engine too?

[BlackMS3]

Nah, just tires....

[sleeper3]

Originally Posted by BlackMS3 Nah, just tires....

[driver311]

I trapped 106-107 with spectra intake, bc 18psi

[flogbox]

I'll scan it a bit later but basically this is the split. Weather was 90F, no ice or water spray on the IC. Tyres are Falken 452 225's.

60' - 2.387
330' - 6.372
660' - 9.418 @ 82.08
1000' - 12.003
ET 14.172 @ 103.54

One of the guys also racing watched from the stands and said i still had wheelspin happening in 3rd. A result of my mistake having 35psi in the tyres. So i think because of that it would also knock down my half track MPH?

I did have a boost leak but it should have been fixed for the above run. The clamp going to the IC continually comes loose. When it's tightened the car is a rocket. On a perfectly well laid street 3rd gear breaks traction ever so slightly at 4500rpm or so, that's the best it's been and it only happens in the cool morning/night air which is around 60F.

I've attached my last dyno so you can see boost and A/F. Don't take to much notice on the peak power number, i can show you another dyno of over 280HP ATW so it does vary a lot between dyno's LOL.

I'm wondering just how much more benefit upgrading the IC will get me and whether the FMIC from TXS is worth it even though i won't be upgrading the turbo.

[sleeper3]

well, I must say, I don't think power is your problem, as I trapped a 104mph run with only an intake and intercooler... you've got the power to do it, you just need the grip. try again with your tire pressure lower and a much less agressive launch. kind of like pulling away from a stoplight, but a little faster. in this car, it seems like once the wheels start spinning, they just don't want to stop. I put your run next to mine on a graph and it looks like it's just the launch that is holding you back. good luck! and practice practice practice! find something that works for YOU.

[SLS MS3]

What RPM are you shifting at, and how are you shifting?

[94jedi]

man you guys are trapping 105+ with minimal mods. I guess this car really does have alot of potential. I hope to hit the track soon with my car. I hope to be i/AP by then lol.

Laloosh trapping 111 is snuts. I guess these cars like 18psi.

[gsrtype1]

Originally Posted by flogbox I'll scan it a bit later but basically this is the split. Weather was 90F, no ice or water spray on the IC. Tyres are Falken 452 225's. 60' - 2.387 330' - 6.372 660' - 9.418 @ 82.08 1000' - 12.003 ET 14.172 @ 103.54 One of the guys also racing watched from the stands and said i still had wheelspin happening in 3rd. A result of my mistake having 35psi in the tyres. So i think because of that it would also knock down my half track MPH? I did have a boost leak but it should have been fixed for the above run. The clamp going to the IC continually comes loose. When it's tightened the car is a rocket. On a perfectly well laid street 3rd gear breaks traction ever so slightly at 4500rpm or so, that's the best it's been and it only happens in the cool morning/night air which is around 60F. I've attached my last dyno so you can see boost and A/F. Don't take to much notice on the peak power number, i can show you another dyno of over 280HP ATW so it does vary a lot between dyno's LOL. I'm wondering just how much more benefit upgrading the IC will get me and whether the FMIC from TXS is worth it even though i won't be upgrading the turbo.

hey whats the basic tune on the exede? do they lean it out??

[Laloosh]

xede is just more bullshit dyno claims. Didnt they claim close to 290whp wiht nothing but their tune? 290 whp and 103-104 mph trap speeds dont mate up.

Just like turbo xs and their 330 whp bolt on ms3 on stock boost, or the atp big turbo ms3 making 37x...its all bullshit folks. Newbs see a dyno and buy parts.

[gsrtype1]

if i remeber right on there website they claim like a 55hp gain from there tune. One time I asked a guy that works there how they did it and he told me they "leaned the crap" of the car...? that was back when the xede first cam out i think they claimed like 273hp or something

[gsrtype1]

thats why i'm wondering IF.. that is true does that imply its safe to lean it out to a cretain leval?

[Laloosh]

how safe is it lean a car out depends on who you ask. Some people think these motors are fine in the high 12 a/f ratio, others thing you shouldnt go over 12, some think 12.5 good. Whats the real answer? Who knows, personally i hate seeing my a/f ratios above 12, but i cant do anything about it

[gsrtype1]

yeah plus leaning it out makes the engine run hotter not good for longevity if you can make power safely instead thats better..

[sleeper3]

leaning this motor's mixture is the easiest way to make power, because it runs a little rich on factory settings.

bottom line, to answer the question posed in this thread, with your current mods, you should be able to trap 110mph on a good run.

[gsrtype1]

Originally Posted by sleeper3 leaning this motor's mixture is the easiest way to make power, because it runs a little rich on factory settings. bottom line, to answer the question posed in this thread, with your current mods, you should be able to trap 110mph on a good run.

but how much is safe, well i guess if you have an a\f guage u can tell?? as i would like to try this with the standback but can't afford to blow motor..

[sleeper3]

Originally Posted by gsrtype1 but how much is safe, well i guess if you have an af guage u can tell?? as i would like to try this with the standback but can't afford to blow motor..

a/f gauges don't have safe/unsafe readings last time I checked... just air to fuel ratios... and we really don't know enough about these engines to say what is safe or not. it's like timing... sure you get more horsepower, but is it worth the risk. to some people it is, to some it isn't.

[gsrtype1]

thats why i would love to see a stock xede tune if they have the secret on how much is safe to lean it out.. as the standback comes zeroed out

[sleeper3]

Originally Posted by gsrtype1 thats why i would love to see a stock xede tune if they have the secret on how much is safe to lean it out.. as the standback comes zeroed out

and you would trust their word as final? that's funny.

[gsrtype1]

not necciarly might point is it would be interesting.. and worth a look and maybe an experiment

[sleeper3]

your posts make no sense.


what is your experiment? to see what an xede tune will put your af ratios at?

[gsrtype1]

duuhh!!what to do u mean no sense??? experiment to see if makeing more power

[sleeper3]

of course you're going to make more power with a good tune.

[flogbox]

2nd gear shifted at 6k, 3rd onwards around 5.5k. Not flat shifting.

Basic tune they do is up boost to 17psi and lean it out a little. It was tuned on the dyno and the power graph is much better than stock.

I agree with Laloosh in terms of the CPE/Xede/Haltech and the power claims. The power comes mainly because they are upping boost. In saying that, when you start to add more mods it’s a good idea to have the car dyno tuned. It’s not something you guys in the US seem to do but here in Oz, having the car dyno tuned is pretty much a given. I’m aware you all think it’s safe to run the ECU, I’m not arguing with that, just saying this is how it generally goes here. I don’t have the boost spikes you talk about (check the dyno) and no fueling problems either. On a daily peak hour traffic basis the car is far more bearable compared to the stock car that had no power below 3000rpm.

The quickest MPH that I’ve seen run in Oz is 105mph (this was with ET 14.23 and a 60’ as bad as mine). He had the TXS FMIC (I think with water spray kit), CAI, BOV, MM but he suffered from wheelspin. So I guess looking at his trap, something is seriously wrong with my numbers. I wonder if it’s the IC clamp still causing problems as it was leaking big time previously?

[ptperformance]

Coil springs? I think that Laloosh and 311 can direct you to what needs to be done. Try that, then get back to us.

[digitaljedi]

your 60' is terrible, you can definately hit 110 with your current set-up, everyone is telling you that, don't see why you would argue it. Go back out there and relax with the launch and the wheelspin and drive it like you stole it. Up the boost to 18 if you want, but that isn't going to add some miraculous amount of power. This car traps 100 stock, your only 4mph above that with a decent number of mods. As was said, guys hit the same trap as you with way less mods.

And, yes, we do dyno tune cars in the U.S., all the time. Maybe not this car, but 90% of guys who mod their cars here and put them on a dyno tune them.

[TRU-BOOST]

i trapped 107, 109, and 110 last weekend with just......
a cai, race pipe, exhaust manifold, MBC, and fuel pump. and those were with ET's between 13.7-13.9 !! can you say wheel spin ?! and yes 2.4 is a very shitty 60' time, thats what i was getting too ! i had plenty of 2.0's last year, but i could not force the car to hook up ! but guess what....... the HOOSIERS are mounted and ready for this weekend !!!!! i expect the traps to drop to about 105-106 but the ET should dip into the 12's ......i hope ! i would rather have the faster ET not trap speed. whay are you after trap speed ?

[flogbox]

Thanks for the input guys, I appreciate it.

My 60’ Is shocking yes. What is even more shocking is that the previous month I had a best of 13.8 @ 102mph with a 2.1 60’. After reading on here about loose IC clamps I checked my own and found it was incredibly loose. After tightening the car felt considerably faster so I went back to the track and ran 14.2 @ 104 with 2.4 60’. Mind you, I didn’t use ice or water to cool the IC at the track. 90F day, I just rock up and drive. Are you guys doing the same or are you pulling all your times in very cool temperatures with ice all over the IC? I imagine that would make a significant difference or you wouldn’t bother yeah?

Jedi - Not trying to argue mate. I’m just a little surprised to see all these high trap numbers from the US guys but downunder we aren’t anywhere near that???

Tru-Boost - I agree with Laloosh on all his points on MPH. Also a very smart bloke drilled into me that MPH is the REAL power of a car. On the street driving around, I don’t see where a shit hot 60’/ET is useful. A car that runs great MPH is what you are going to care about in everyday driving because that’s exactly what you’ll be using. Otherwise the WRX's would be eating the MS3's on the road but instead it's the other way around. Seeing as i visit the track once a month, i'll take having a faster road car anyday.

[TRU-BOOST]

you are right and wrong. what you saw seems correct it is very normal to have a faster ET with a slower tap speed. whaen you spin the hell out of your tires your trap will be very high and your ET will be slower. trap speed does measur power, but hell i trapped 110 and only went 13.7 ! is that power ?? i would rather make the car stick and go 12.7 @ 105 . when you trap 110 WITH traction that means you have power. trap speed on stock tires doing a 3 gear burnout doesnt mean shit !

[redrocketz]

you get those tires I sent you yet?

[Laloosh]

we all know i prefer trap speed. So you bolt on slicks and run 12s, who gives a fuck lol. 12s today mean jack shit. Personally i rather run 13.7 @ 115 then 12.2 @ 108

[sleeper3]

to me, if you have slicks and you're not running low 12s, you're wasting your time. I'm more impressed at a car running on street rubber pulling good times. low et = good driver, high trap speed = powerful car. if I'm at the track, I'm there to test my driving skills, not see how fast my car is. if I want to know power on my car, I'll stick it on a dyno.

[Cosmic3MPS]

Hi Guys,

My first post here and great site it is. Here are the results of my Xede tune and I am VERY happy with it:

Cheers from Aus