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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score 1. I've bought new studs and nuts for the downpipe/mani to turbo connections, as well as a new exhaust mani gasket. I'm just wondering if I will be needing anything else other than those? 2. After the install, does the turbo need to be broken in? I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but I've never done anything to this extent before. It seems to be pretty strait forward.plus, I can just look at how to's for other turbo installs and just reverse the removal of the K04.BUT, I thought I'd ask so I don't end up killing my new turbo. any help would be great!
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Don't forget the gasket for the oil return and you should replace the oil feed copper washers(2) and the coolant pipe washers (4) - Just take your time and be careful as you go otherwise.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You will need new coolant drain, coolant feed, oil feed crush washers and an oil drain gasket. Depending on the milage of your car you can probably get away with applying copper spray to the exhaust gaskets and reuse them.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Where's a good place to get those gaskets and washers?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You can get the gaskets from edge autosport - Probably best bet is mazda on the washers
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score thanks for the info guys. I'm searching mazdapartonline and I'm not finding those washers..anyone got a part #?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score 1 qty Oil Drain (lower pipe) to Turbo Gasket - L3K914293 2 qty Oil Feed (upper pipe) Crush Washer - 995621200 4 qty Coolant inlet/outlet Crush Washer - 995621400 All parts can be found here: Link
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I just got done spoon feeding my 3 year old son who was acting helpless. I guess I was in the groove. LOL.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score No special break in. Just avoid full boost for the first 100 miles or so. It would be good to fill the turbo oil inlet pipe with oil to avoid it running dry the first few seconds after it starts until it gets oil from the pump. Some rebuilt turbos come with some temporary lube on the internal center shaft bearings. I just had mine rebuilt by Work Turbochargers (turborepair.com) in North Alabama, and it came back with some temporary internal lube.
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The best tip I can give is take your time, especially if this isn't your primary car. Don't fall into the forum mechanic hours estimate trap. Make sure you clean up all mating surfaces real good. Last thing you want to do is rip it apart again to fix an exhaust leak.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Did you say exhaust manifold gasket? I recently did a bnrS3 swap and did not remove the exhaust manifold. I would recommend this approach. Freeks BNR install This way you don't need that gasket, and ideally the install will go faster.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score yeah, I assumed it would just be easier to take off the manifold to get the turbo out. I guess all the how tos' i read said to do it. But, I'll try without taking out the manifold first. It's my primary car, but I've been driving a buddies truck. I'm itching to get this done, but I'll make sure to take my time. I was talking to a friend who does a lot of work on VWs and he told me to do an oil change after 100 miles. I'm due for one anyways, but i was wondering maybe I should do it before I swap it? I have about 3k-4k on the oil right now.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Don't bother taking off the exhaust manifold or even the turbo bracket. The bottom two bolts on the bracket would not break so I just took the one that held the turbo on off and removed the turbo to mani studs using the 2 but method m10 1.5 nuts. Skids right out drivers side. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score So yea the k04 does slip out the driver side but for as easy as it is to remove the manifold vs wiggling it around the egr and brake booster area I would go with removing the manifold if it were me. I've done about 5 swaps on various speeds and taking the manifold out is my preferred method. On the nuts near the turbo for manifold to block just break loose and use a ratcheting wrench. For this last swap I took out the windshield trim on the bottom and I immediately regretted not doing it on the other swaps. I would rather take more bolts off in a relaxed manner vs getting frustrated with lack of space to work in.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I just did this swap with a bnr. You remove the break boost hose and remove the EGR and no issues taking it out. Very little wiggling required |
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My install tips: 1. Remove your hood 2. Remove the cowl Those two things will take ~15-20min and make the job SOOOOoooooo much easier.
__________________ _______________________________________________ Driver Mods - Mid Ohio Three Day Racing School 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 GT - 130k+ miles. Daily driver (Actually my Wife's car) Shooting for a reliable 350 AWHP. Surefire Remanufactured Engine Installed @ 135k. Mods: BNR S3 Turbo \ Grimmspeed EBCS \ Guardian Angel \ Cobb AccessPort \ Bosch 3 Bar MAP sensor \ AWR RMM \ TurbineTech FMM \ Corksport HPFP \ cp-e Injector seals \ Autolite XP5263 plugs \ Ebay Circuit Werks DP \ Stock CBE \ HTP 3" Intake w/ DIY CAI \ cp-e TMIC \ DIY boost tubes \ Primary & Secondary EGR delete \ Bilstein Shocks \ 215/45ZR -18 Continental ExtremeContact DWS PERM dual PVC plate and two Damond Motorsports catch cans. Full vacuum setup w/ VTA for over pressure. PERM #1 -> DM OCC V1 -> DM PCV valve -> Check Valve -> Intake Manifold. PERM #2 -> DM OCC V2 w/ VTA -> Check Valve -> Tee -> Valve Cover & TIP. The others: 2009 BMW 135i - N54 - JB4 w/ backend flash \ SRI. 1998 VW GTI VR6 - 248k miles (stock clutch!) when wrecked (not my fault) ![]() 1995 Jeep XJ - 4.0 - AW4 \ Lift/Tires etc. 230k miles. Rust bucket / winter beater. 1995 Honda del sol VTEC - DIY hodge podge turbo setup \ self tuned w/ Neptune. 2550lbs ~270whp \ 150k+ miles on stock bottom end (4th clutch though) \ knock limited on 93 octane. | |
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And neither of those things need to be removed to install the turbo. Jack up the car, remove the DP, unbolt it from from above, and take it out from below. Much easier than trying to get it from the side. Have fun with the turbo bracket though, be prepared for many beers and curse words when trying to remove it.
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![]() I forgot how easy you MS3 guys have it with all that room behind the engine. No way are you getting the turbo out the bottom on a MS6.
__________________ _______________________________________________ Driver Mods - Mid Ohio Three Day Racing School 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 GT - 130k+ miles. Daily driver (Actually my Wife's car) Shooting for a reliable 350 AWHP. Surefire Remanufactured Engine Installed @ 135k. Mods: BNR S3 Turbo \ Grimmspeed EBCS \ Guardian Angel \ Cobb AccessPort \ Bosch 3 Bar MAP sensor \ AWR RMM \ TurbineTech FMM \ Corksport HPFP \ cp-e Injector seals \ Autolite XP5263 plugs \ Ebay Circuit Werks DP \ Stock CBE \ HTP 3" Intake w/ DIY CAI \ cp-e TMIC \ DIY boost tubes \ Primary & Secondary EGR delete \ Bilstein Shocks \ 215/45ZR -18 Continental ExtremeContact DWS PERM dual PVC plate and two Damond Motorsports catch cans. Full vacuum setup w/ VTA for over pressure. PERM #1 -> DM OCC V1 -> DM PCV valve -> Check Valve -> Intake Manifold. PERM #2 -> DM OCC V2 w/ VTA -> Check Valve -> Tee -> Valve Cover & TIP. The others: 2009 BMW 135i - N54 - JB4 w/ backend flash \ SRI. 1998 VW GTI VR6 - 248k miles (stock clutch!) when wrecked (not my fault) ![]() 1995 Jeep XJ - 4.0 - AW4 \ Lift/Tires etc. 230k miles. Rust bucket / winter beater. 1995 Honda del sol VTEC - DIY hodge podge turbo setup \ self tuned w/ Neptune. 2550lbs ~270whp \ 150k+ miles on stock bottom end (4th clutch though) \ knock limited on 93 octane. | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Well, I got it replaced today...Holy shit I'm never doing that again. took me 8 hrs strait to do it. First time I've ever taken my car apart that much. I'd say the most pain in the ass thing was that turbo bracket in the back and the coolant return line... Fucking coolant everywhere. Turbo came out the intake side pretty easily though. I'm happy I didn't take the whole exhaust mani out.fuck that noise.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You could have clamped the coolant line with vise grips first. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah, didn't think of that till after it was in my face..
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__________________ SOLD 2009 CWP Speed3 Cobb Ap/AT Internals/Cobb Downpipe/Cobb SRI,TIP/TS BPV/sure shortcut/JBR 88a RMM/JBR TMM/JBR solid shifter bushings/Freektune OTS+ |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score hate to revive an old thread, but some searching brought me here. i'm going to replacing my K04 (after a rebuild) and was looking for a parts list of things that need, and should, be replaced. i have 140k on her so i don't mind replacing old parts! |
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__________________ Genwin Individual Throttle Body Webers 20B Swapped 1UZ w/ Hi-Cap Purple Loush and Trigonometric Valve Tumblers. Thetan Core Fogger System. P1@n0 Tuned to Load Burst Limit. Glacier Red '07. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I did, and did not see any how-to. So... |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Seems like last time I did a turbo swap I got on here looking for a detailed parts list but did not see one (oil feed washers, oil drain gaskets, manifold to turbo gaskets, etc). If it's here then it is buried and should be brought from the dead so Google will display it.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score yes, I read. the parts were for a gen2 ms3. I have a ms6. I don't think the parts are the same, but then again, I have no idea. that's why I asked. |
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Do you mean you are rebuilding a K04? Or buying another K04 entirely? Or replacing your K04 with a different turbo? I'm compiling a parts list for replacing my dying K04 soon. I used the link above to view all washers and gaskets I can replace while I'm doing the turbo switch. Besides what was listed above by jdmage, I'm also getting a new Turbo-Downpipe gasket and Manifold-turbo gasket which can also be found through the above link, many re-use them also. If your purposes are similar to mine then I believe it's the same for MS6/genwon/genpu, I have a genwon. Unless someone can correct me, all involved parts, engine/manifold/k04 are the same. Or are you looking for a list of parts to rebuild a K04 turbo itself?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Damn @breakfstincluded; is on it. I knew I posted them somewhere a while back but I have terrible memory and was not in a position to look. Awesome work. As stated the same gaskets are needed whether MS6 or MS3 unless you are doing something extremely unnecessary.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I was more or less looking for confirmation that the parts needed are, in fact, the same regardless of generation. I'm having my K04 rebuilt (or maybe BNR stage 1 ) so I was just looking for the gaskets, washers, etc. that should be replaced. it was a pain in the dick to get all that apart so I wanna get it right the first time! |
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The turbo-manifold and turbo-downpipe gaskets are optional, either way I'd personally apply copper gasket as well.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Couple more links since I just did mine, most of which are contained within jdmage_mx5's link. Should be the same between the MS6 and Gen 1/Gen 2 MS3 (but confirm the part IDs just in case): 1. DP gasket: 2009 Mazda 3/M Parts - Online Mazda Parts 2. TC gasket to mani: 2009 Mazda 3/M Parts - Online Mazda Parts 3. Water inlet & outlet gaskets (x4): 2009 Mazda 3/M Parts - Online Mazda Parts 2009 Mazda 3/M Parts - Online Mazda Parts 4. Lower oil pipe gasket, turbo side: 2009 Mazda 3/M Parts - Online Mazda Parts 5. Upper oil pipe gaskets (x2 turbo side, x2 block side): http://onlinemazdaparts.com/parts/20...0pipe%20gasket 6. Lower oil pipe gasket, block side (if removing lower pipe completely): http://onlinemazdaparts.com/parts/20...&siteid=214264 Turbo removal/install directions: http://www.corksport.com/support/ins...-6-777-WEB.pdf ^^Yes, they are for the Corksport turbo but the approach is exactly the same. Last edited by Design; 09-16-2015 at 04:55 PM. |
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