Not making any boost

[JoeSpeed6KS]

I bought my 07 speed6 3 months ago. Guy before me put a big turbo and full cold air intake. I suddenly lost all boost so I searched for possible problems. I have so far done a leak test, checked the external waste gate, checked the intake side of the turbo to make sure it still spun freely and didn't have a lot of play in it. I am new to turbo systems and need some help. Could my turbo be blown?

[andale927]

What do you mean by lost all boost? Literally no boost or does it seem like it is only running on wastegate spring pressure?

[JoeSpeed6KS]

I have my AP hooked up and it won't produce any boost at all and it makes a faint whistle sound just driving around. It sounds horrible when I go above 3k rpms. But other than the boost not being made it starts and idles just fine.

[JoeSpeed6KS]

I thought maybe my bov is stuck open since it's the factory one. But I leak testes it and it help pressure just fine. I am trying to learn as I go. My knowledge about the speed6 is limited.

[Vansquish]

Is there an unusually strong exhaust smell within the engine bay? Is there black residue on anything near the exhaust-side of the turbo? Is the exhaust manifold stock?

Post some pictures of your engine bay. Pay particular attention to the hoses to and from the turbo, and to and from the intercooler.

[JoeSpeed6KS]

I would say normally there is a pretty strong exhaust smell after I get done driving it. I don't see any black residues on the exhaust side of the turbo. I couldn't tell you whether or not the exhaust manifold is stock. I'll try to post some pictures. First attempt failed.

[JoeSpeed6KS]

I can't get the file size small enough on my phone to post a picture.

[JoeSpeed6KS]

engine compartment

[JoeSpeed6KS]

intake side and exhaust side of turbo

[JoeSpeed6KS]

looking down on intake pipe. ( the guy i bought from broke the battery housing so it was just rattling around inside, i jerry rigged something to hold it down)

[tegxsi]

Did you even know what you have under the hood?

[JoeSpeed6KS]

Not exactly it's all new to me and I'm trying to learn as I go. I know that it has an upgraded turbo with the 3" cold air intake. I wish I could get someone to go through it with me in person but my local shop wanted to charge me $100 an hour to look at it. So I've just been reading as much as I can online

[andale927]

Posting some logs could really help out with finding the problem. The most likely culprit for no boost happening suddenly without a catastrophic failure is a boost leak. Could you explain in detail how you did the boost leak test?

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[JoeSpeed6KS]

No the first thing I did was buy an AP because it threw a code saying engine to lean at idle after having it for a week. So I flashed a OTS map hoping it would be better than the factory. I made a leak test using a 2" PVC cap and put a valve on it with a psi gauge inline with my compressor and applied 25 psi. I removed the intake pipe from the inlet of the turbo, that is where I applied the 25 psi and it held the pressure very well. I didn't time it or anything I just listened for leaks and couldn't hear any.

I also replaced the purge control valve hoping it would be that easy but it wasn't...

[andale927]

Running an OTS map when you have a big turbo and who knows what other mods probably wasn't a good idea. You did do the boost test correctly so that probably isn't the issue. You said you checked the turbo for shaft play, was there any? Axial shaft play is typically measured in thousandths of an inch so pushing or pulling on the shaft should not have any noticeable play. Noticeable radial shaft play is normally alright as long as the wheel doesn't touch the housing.

[JoeSpeed6KS]

There was very little play in the shaft, I would say less than a millimeter it still spun by hand and didn't rub on the walls. So should I flash the stock tune until I can afford to have it tunned by a professional because I dont know enough to do the tune myself. After I flashed the ots tune I noticed a lot more power being put to the wheels.

I have only gone WOT maybe 4-5 times since owning it because I was saving money to get HPFP internals. I didn't want to damage anything running to lean. So I never entered boost unless I was above 3k rpms and I wouldn't go WOT.

[andale927]

Wait, so the previous owner had a big turbo installed with no HPFP internals or tune??

[JoeSpeed6KS]

Yeah I think so. I think he bought the turbo used and put it in. He wasn't very much help when I asked him about it. He didn't know very much so I doubt he upgraded the internals and I asked if he had it tunned and he said no.

I don't know very much either but from the little bit of research I've done internals and an AP would of been the first things I would have done

[g00s3y]

Sounds like this guy who sold you the car is an idiot, and I wouldn't be surprised if that motor doesn't last long.

Should seriously find out some more information from this idiot.

And why would you purchase a car you know nothing about? You didn't think of doing research beforehand?

And you got an AP, but don't have internals?

[JoeSpeed6KS]

I had a mazda 6 and it was the most reliable car i have owned but i wanted something faster so got the speed6 i did a little bit of research before i got it. it only has 46000 miles on it so i didnt think i would have any serious issues guess i thought wrong. yes i bought an AP but i havent got internals yet.

[mr.speedy3]

As stated, post a log using the AP (easy to do). An idle log would be a good start. I wouldn't try boosting until you figure it out as it could be a bigger problem and attempting to boost could worsen it.

When I attempted to boost and received 0.00psi on my AP, I seized the ball bearings in the turbo. I couldn't build any boost and had to rebuild my turbo ($1200 for a new CHRA in my case). Hopefully yours is better. My cause was too small of a restrictor on the turbo feed.

Did you do basic checks on the engine before/when you bought it? Such as check the spark plugs, compression test etc?

Maybe its the EBCS... I could guess a million things, but a log would help point out something (maybe). A big turbo with an OTS tune is shitty, but you should still be able to produce (shitty) boost still.

Also from the picture, it looks like you at least have a test pipe (1 cat removed). Does the 6 have 2 cats?

[sheston]

Sounds like you might want to get internals installed before you fix this issue.

Have you tried the wastegate actuator to see if it can move? Looks fairly 'salty' for lack of a better word. Maybe it's stuck open

I assume you can feel exhaust coming out the back, cats might be blocked, due to poor tune

[JoeSpeed6KS]

yeah as i said i checked the wastegate after i tested for leaks and didnt find any. the wastegate still moved back and forth and it wasnt stuck open.

ill check the exhaust when i record an engine idle run. thats something i havent checked yet.

[mr.speedy3]

If you have an air compressor, you can pressurize the wastegate and see if it opens (you should hear the valve open and close). Only put a little more pressure than the spring in the ewg though. You probably don't know what springs you have in the ewg though. Do you know what turbo is on there or how much boost did you make when you could make boost?

tapatalkin

[JoeSpeed6KS]

one of these logs is from right after i got my AP when i was still producing boost. I think the other is from just now sittingn at idle im not for sure though i might try to take another.

[JoeSpeed6KS]

i dont think it recorded my data log at idle im going to try that again.

[JoeSpeed6KS]

ok this log is from starting engine and letting idle for about 10 sec

[sheston]

One of your previous logs shows your fuel pressure dropping everytime you go into boost. Get upgraded internals before you blow up

Your last log shows LTFTs maxed out. Not sure if that is because of cold engine or ....

The only thing I could think of is that you should Nator up and get some help. BT without internals, on a COTs map.... It's going to blow

[andale927]

Dude you should be glad that the turbo seized if that's what happened. The motor wouldn't last long if it kept going. The one log you have with boost really doesn't look good. You're leaning out causing knock because of the stock fuel pump internals.

Also I don't know if its because of a messed up MAF cal but your LTFT is really high.

You should (A) get the HPFP internals ASAP, (B) find someone who knows what they are doing take a look at the turbo for you, (C) get the car professionally e-tuned.

[JoeSpeed6KS]

Im going to go ahead and order new internals as soon as I can. There is only one shop that i know of that deals with these kinds of problems and I dont have a lot of confidence since I asked them about internals and they said the stock ones should be ok. I still dont know what to do about my current problem. I can here the turbo stop spinning when i shut my car off after idle. Ive checked all the obvious things, im thinking about pulling the turbo off and taking it to someone. I appreciate your guys input and i hope i keep hearing more.

[Jonb82]

Hey man, don't stress. Just read and research. Hpfp internals are an easy install after you have read the tutorials and instructions many times. In your head while you take the parts off first you'll think you will eventually fuck up your car, but you won't. I went from only doing oil changes to changing those out, finding boost leaks, finding what I thought was a boost leak caused by SWAS, all bolt ons and two days of swapping out the cunt clutch. I don't have my own garage either. You might want to spend a little more time learning about your car and working on it, or you'll spend a fortune. Plus always know that no one will take as much time and dedication on your car as you will. Hope it's an easy fix. And for the spirit of MSF... fucking donate you fucking cunt brownie.


Sent while probably pooping

[sharksinspace]

Originally Posted by Jonb82 Hey man, don't stress. Just read and research. Hpfp internals are an easy install after you have read the tutorials and instructions many times. In your head while you take the parts off first you'll think you will eventually fuck up your car, but you won't.

Agreed. I was super intimidated to do the HPFP on my car but reading the instructions a bunch of times first, and especially watching Corksport's tutorial video, helped immensely and it turned out to not be nearly as difficult as I had anticipated. If I can do it, you can do it.

Also agreed with everyone above saying to get some Nator help to check it over, if possible, and ABSOLUTELY invest in an e-tune once it's back in proper running condition. Try talking to the fucktard previous owner again and see if his dumb ass can at least tell you which turbo he put in, and any other mods he did or is aware of having already been done when he bought it. Also do not trust that local shop to do any engine work if they told you that the stock pump internals are fine.

Good luck, mang

[g00s3y]

Until you get internals, do not boost, or don't go above 5psi I would say, if you must. Especially not knowing what size turbo is on there, or what other mods have been done. If they upgraded the MAP sensor, but you are running an OTS map, the PSI reading can be off.

Definitely try and get in touch with the guy, and find out if he never installed internals, or if he just took them out before selling you the car. If he never had internals installed, I would do a compression/leakdown test asap. Hopefully the motor is still in decent condition.

[JoeSpeed6KS]

Alright I'm ordering my internals today and I'll get them put in before I try anything else. I ran my CEL and I threw the code p0245 turbocharger waste gate solenoid A low? Could this be the reason for no boost building? I checked the waste gate by hand but i couldn't get the hose off to see how much psi it took to open it.

[Omega]

I'd be surprised if the ringlands survived the lack of fueling, heat is a bitch. Definitely second the compression test ASAP - might not matter much fixing the lack of boost if the motor is toast.

Wait is it me or is that a stock TMIC on the motor? Looks like a stocker -- oh boy... Based on those pictures that poor car has been through the shitter. Whoever owned it didn't give a shit about it.

Nobody will be able to tell you what that turbo is other than the person you bought it from in the exhaust pic you can see it's an ATP v-band with a mazda to vband adapter flange. It's then likely an ATP garrett turbo but who knows :/ . Knowing what turbo you have will be important for a tune.

Your wastegate solenoid code should be your EBCS - that's what will control your wastegate on this car (unless you route the vacuum differently to run on spring pressure -- should probably be your next step then to run via spring pressure - ONLY after you install fuel internals and do a compression test).

[JoeSpeed6KS]

On

on the compression test you remove the fuel pump fuse and what other one? i picked up a compression test kit from autozone.

[Omega]

You don't need to remove any fuse, hold the gas pedal down to the floor and crank, that's the sequence to stop our injectors from firing.

Did you rent one of their good ones or buy a cheap one? A cheap one won't mean much in terms of overall compression, but just that the numbers are the same... If you rented one of their good ones normal compression is usually 180-190 from the factory new, typically you should see 175-185 on an older motor.

[andale927]

Originally Posted by JoeSpeed6KS On on the compression test you remove the fuel pump fuse and what other one? i picked up a compression test kit from autozone.

You can just fully depress the accelerator while cranking to prevent fuel injection

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[JoeSpeed6KS]

yes i rented one,thank you guys again ill post the numbers once im done

[JoeSpeed6KS]

So on cylinders 1&3 I got 145 psi
2&3 I got 135 psi
I checked the compression tester gauge against my compressor and at 120 psi on my compressor the tester only showed 115 psi. So I don't know how good of a tester it was.