Mixed info on turbo

[acarmona24]

Ok. I took my car to the Mazda dealership cause I wanted to see what the car needed since I just bought it (2007). They said the turbo was bad and so was the fuel pump. They said Intake seal leaking internally also has past and presentt codes in the b c m. Which I have no idea what that means. I took the car back to where I bought it. They said they cleaned the injectors now car doesn't feel like it want to stall at 3k rpms. The owner of the dealership also said he has been driving the car all week to see if the car shows any symptoms and had no problems. The dealership quoted me $1900 for the new turbo and I don't know what to do or what other steps to take to find out if the turbo is really out. Any suggestions!

[biggman026]

Are you getting a bunch of white smoke out of the exhaust? If so, your turbo seals are leaking. You can also pull the intake and check for shaft play.

I would ask them how they determined the turbo and fuel pump were bad, and ask them to show you.

[acarmona24]

No smoke. They said they plugged it to the computer and thats what it read.

[biggman026]

Someone with far greater knowledge than I can confirm or deny this, but I don't think you can determine a turbo and fuel pump are bad with a diagnostic scanning tool based on trouble codes. Sure, you can take a datalog and see that fuel pressures are dropping at WOT and thus you've got hpfp problems, but I don't see that being something you can determine with the car just sitting in the shop.

[JSmith]

Why are they saying the pump is bad? It is fuel pressure at idle? If so, it could be the relief valve.

[Lakespeed6]

No such code for bad turbo.
You by it from a rep dealer? Cleaning our injectors is not an easy task.
Do you have an AP? Did you throw a check engine light?
How many miles. What are the symptoms?

[Vansquish]

^^ Agreed.

There are no codes for a "bad turbo" or for an "intake seal leaking internally" (whatever the hell that means). You could be running rich, or running lean, and that could be what they're trying to say. You might consider asking for the specific numbers of the CEL codes stored in the BCM. At least that way, we might be able to provide more specific advice.

The high pressure fuel pump does occasionally fail, but you would have to be monitoring and logging fuel pressure in order to find this out.

I'm also going to call B.S. on "cleaning the injectors." They probably threw some octane booster or "injector cleaner" in the gas, but there's no way that they properly cleaned the injectors. You have to remove the intake manifold, pull the injectors, send the injectors out for cleaning (which probably also means replacing each injector's internal plastic filter with a metal one), acquiring and installing new injector seals along with the cleaned injectors, and then reinstalling the intake manifold and all the other shit that had to be removed to access the injectors.

It sounds like you need to get yourself a different set of mechanics.

[smoogs12]

What dealer is this? Just so we can make sure that no one brings their car to them.

Are they a mazdaspeed certified dealer?

[SpencerC]

This is all sorts of weird.

As people previously stated, there is no Turbo Fail code. It also is very rare that any dealer would clean injectors on a used car they were selling. Plus $1900 for a turbo job is very high. You could buy yourself a new turbo that is better than stock and still be able to pay most shops to install it for you for that cost. Or buy a used K04 for about $300 and install yourself. Dirt cheap. Honestly if it ain't smoking, and there is no shaft play, you are fine.

[acarmona24]

Ok. I'm back had fantasy draft tonight. They said that they put BG44k to clean the injectors. So yeah no real cleaning. Now this was the shop that sold me the car. When I went to go pick up the car today it ran fine. But after an hour or so the CEL came back on. It started shaking at 3k rpms and whe I come to a stop I hear a weird noise coming from the engine. Sounds like a diesel truck and like a chain is knocking or rattling.

[buttons]

Originally Posted by acarmona24 Ok. I'm back had fantasy draft tonight. They said that they put BG44k to clean the injectors. So yeah no real cleaning. Now this was the shop that sold me the car. When I went to go pick up the car today it ran fine. But after an hour or so the CEL came back on. It started shaking at 3k rpms and whe I come to a stop I hear a weird noise coming from the engine. Sounds like a diesel truck and like a chain is knocking or rattling.

I just picked up a mazdaspeed 6 GT a few weeks ago. I thought i had a heatshield rattling, but it was the timing chain hitting the valve cover. When the car is cool, take the oil cap off and see if there is any slack in your timing chain. mine had so much slack that i could probably pull it off the sprocket with one finger. (though it made a horrible racket at idle) my car drove just fine and pulled strong.

To check turbo shaft play, remove battery, remove turbo inlet pipe - -you should be able to see if the shaft has any play.

Originally Posted by acarmona24 Ok so I took the car to autozone for a CEL check and it came back as system to lean at idle-right bank or fuel system malfunction or MAF sensor faulty or ignition system malfunction.

Could try taking the the maf out and carefully spraying some maf cleaner on it a few times.

[ALPINEST4RS]

BG44K is piss in a can. Fuck all dat.

Stop driving your car, check your oil. If its good, go to autozone and get a free CEL scan. Tell me the codes and I will atleast explain to you what you need to do man.

I can't stand these fucking dealers that are Mazda certified. No wonder our customer loyalty is so low. Jesus.

[acarmona24]

Thanks. I will do that first thing in the morning and post the codes. I appreciate it. I'm new here so I apologize for the ignorance. But I do appreciate the friendliness and help.

[btstarcher]

Also update your profile to include location; maybe find someone local to take a look. Donating to the forum also gets you access to service manuals, forum classifieds, and lots of other goodies, to include Nator. Check it out, it's well worth it.

[acarmona24]

Ok so I took the car to autozone for a CEL check and it came back as system to lean at idle-right bank or fuel system malfunction or MAF sensor faulty or ignition system malfunction.

[biggman026]

That's a lot of codes. For the lean at idle check your connections for leaks, for the MAF try cleaning the MAF sensor. Don't know what to tell you on the others.

[JSmith]

Did they give actual code numbers?

[Vansquish]

Do you have an aftermarket intake?

[Sensei]

It would be a good idea to check your timing chain tension through the oil fill especially since you heard a chain rattling noise.

[Mylifeiseasy]

IMO! The dealerships are the worst place ever to take a mazdaspeed they have no clue it seems. Do lots and lots of reading on here and or Find someone local who owns the same car and does there own work on there car. Someone like that can help you get your car sorted out in a hurry and save you loads of butt hurt!! Unless your a rich bitch! And love some butt hurting!

[acarmona24]

My bad the code that showed up was P2187

Originally Posted by Vansquish Do you have an aftermarket intake?

No. Everything is stock.

[Lakespeed6]

Originally Posted by acarmona24 My bad the code that showed up was P2187 No. Everything is stock.

Either you have a leak in you're intake somewhere or a dirty maf.
Get some maf cleaner and clean your maf. Follow the directions on the bottle.
Check to make sure your air filter is good too.
Then check all connections on in take to the turbo.

[Mylifeiseasy]

If I start me car and let it idle for too long about 10-15 mins it will throw that code. Idk why. I tried everything I can think of. I just reset it now when it happens and I don't worrie about it. It mostly happens in winter when I'm letting the car warm up so it can shift niclely when driving. At around 0 degrees. It's just easier to warm the trans up then drive. It don't like to shift when it's that cold.

[Vansquish]

It could be any number of things, actually.

Any leak between the MAF sensor and the O2 sensors could be the culprit. That means it could be a dirty MAF sensor, a busted evap purge valve, an unplugged or otherwise disabled EGR valve, an untightened hose clamp in the intake tract somewhere on the engine-side of the MAF, an intake mani leak, a boost tube leak, an intercooler leak, and so forth.

[acarmona24]

Originally Posted by Vansquish It could be any number of things, actually. Any leak between the MAF sensor and the O2 sensors could be the culprit. That means it could be a dirty MAF sensor, a busted evap purge valve, an unplugged or otherwise disabled EGR valve, an untightened hose clamp in the intake tract somewhere on the engine-side of the MAF, an intake mani leak, a boost tube leak, an intercooler leak, and so forth.

[mr.speedy3]

So you need a VVT job it sounds like (among other things). If you're under 70k, take it in because thats free under warranty.

If it is over 70k, try calling MazdaUSA AND go to a different stealership. They're basically robbing you saying this and that, and you would have probably paid this or that if you never came to MSF.

We had a local recently who had a stretched chain and was at 86k miles, MazdaUSA pushed the warranty claim through and he got it replaced same day (might be a record there).

Point is, listen to the folks here, we kind of know what we're doing, most of the time at least.

[acarmona24]

I'm already at 153k miles. I'm gonna have to find a local to help me out.

[ALPINEST4RS]

For a p2187 it's important to check basics first. It's a very generic code.

There is also a ecu software update depending on your model/year

[acarmona24]

So just an update. As I was getting off the highway coming down the ramp to get on the access road my car complete died on me. I was able to put it in neutral and roll down to the side of the road. It took me like 5 mins to get the car back on. I did not mess with anything. I sat there looking confused and pissed! Try to turn it back on and it came back on as if nothing ever happened. I was able to make it home. Tomorrow I will be cleaning the MAF and making sure everything is connected to the turbo right.

[ALPINEST4RS]

Try unplugging the maf and see if it runs better.

[acarmona24]

Ok so I checked the turbo and there is no shaft play. Leads me to believe the turbo is good. Come to find out there was not one oz of oil in the car. I can not believe both dealerships didn't check that!! It's my fault for thinking the dealership I bought it from would've checked and fill all fluids on the car before selling it. The one thing that I do hear is the chain knocking every 40 seconds. I don't know how much that's gonna cost. I drove the car after filling it up with oil and it seems ok. It still shakes at 3k rpms though.

[btstarcher]

Originally Posted by acarmona24 Ok so I checked the turbo and there is no shaft play. Leads me to believe the turbo is good. Come to find out there was not one oz of oil in the car. I can not believe both dealerships didn't check that!! It's my fault for thinking the dealership I bought it from would've checked and fill all fluids on the car before selling it. The one thing that I do hear is the chain knocking every 40 seconds. I don't know how much that's gonna cost. I drove the car after filling it up with oil and it seems ok. It still shakes at 3k rpms though.

So you pulled the drain plug and nothing came out? Or there wasn't any on the dipstick? Because there's a huge difference.

[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by acarmona24 Come to find out there was not one oz of oil in the car. I can not believe both dealerships didn't check that!! It's my fault for thinking the dealership I bought it from would've checked and fill all fluids on the car before selling it.

I know this sounds like a dumb question, but how do you know it was low on oil? I know that you checked it via the dipstick, but did you check it while it was on level ground, or was the front end of the car up in the air? If so, the "low" reading on the dipstick doesn't tell you anything useful.

[acarmona24]

Originally Posted by Vansquish I know this sounds like a dumb question, but how do you know it was low on oil? I know that you checked it via the dipstick, but did you check it while it was on level ground, or was the front end of the car up in the air? If so, the "low" reading on the dipstick doesn't tell you anything useful.

yeah the car was on level ground.

[ALPINEST4RS]

Once these cars run out of oil it's over man. You're going to have problems, sorry man.

[acarmona24]

Well.. dipstick. I didn't even think of pulling the drain plug as soon as I saw no oil on the stick I went and bought a jug of 5 quarts. I was more worried about damage to the engine at that point.

[btstarcher]

God I hope you didn't put 5 quarts in....

[acarmona24]

Originally Posted by btstarcher God I hope you didn't put 5 quarts in....

Lmao!!! Oh hell no! Give me a little credit here!lol

[btstarcher]

Well then it was low, how much did you add? I think stock it holds 6 quarts? It wasn't dry though right?

[acarmona24]

No it wasn't dry just didn't show any at all. I put about 3 1/2