liquid2air ic

[Anklh]

Did you all miss what I posted a bit back. Check my links, I did this and it worked. I am sure that the design could be improved on since that was years ago, it was pretty large and heavy and I spent around $8k on it.

Define worked? I literaly had a frosty intake. It needs further testing and a smaller footprint. I am not selling anything here just want peeps to have an advantage of those that have been down this road before. If for nothing else then good information.

[TRU-BOOST]

sure it works, but i am telling you the very best design possible will only be as efficient as the stock unit. i'm sure the core flows better, so that is an improvement, but i learned from my expensive mistake. it isnt worth it.

[BlackMS3]

Originally Posted by TRU-BOOST sure it works, but i am telling you the very best design possible will only be as efficient as the stock unit. i'm sure the core flows better, so that is an improvement, but i learned from my expensive mistake. it isnt worth it.

I don't see how that's possible... The VERY best design should get the boosted air temps at ambient air temperature. That would be the best design.

There's a reason that engines are water cooled nowadays and not air cooled... it's more efficient... same with computers... you can pull more heat from a source with water....

I don't know what core you were using or what type of radiator you were using, but it was obviously not right if those are the results you got....

[4DRHTRD]

BTW, I checked with my builder, it's less than 30lbs for the complete IC, heat exchanger, pump and water on my setup. If I added a reservoir and additional water it would add more of course.

[TRU-BOOST]

a water IC is the most efficient way of intercooling............................
at the dragstrip when it is filled with ice. the problem with water is it retains heat. sure the heat exchanger cools it, but the heat it absorbs when going through the IC itself usually out weighs the cooling effect. it is a never ending battle between the turbo heating the water and the air cooling the water. in most cases on the street a well designed water/air IC is only obout 70% efficient. a good TMIC/FMIC can be as high as 90%. trust me if it was the better option i would have done it......considering i bought all the supplies !!

[Speedy3]

Here's some liquid/air core prices:
Bell Intercoolers | Liquid to Air Intercooler Cores

Anyone ever consider a piezoelectric cooler on the IC or after the IC or prior to the intake manifold? A standard piezoelectric cooler draws about 4 amps at 12 VDC and cools 40 degees lower than ambient. A number of these integrated into an IC or in series in a hose after the IC could possibly compliment the IC. A separate battery would probably be needed due to the current draw. What would be very cool (literally) is an IC built on a matrix of piezoelectric coolers. At 60 degrees F, you'd get potential cooling down to 20 degrees F. Or 40 at 80 degrees, etc...

[BlackMS3]

Those are called TEC's (thermo electric coolers).... typically you would have to have a massive amount of them to effectively cool a re-occuring heat source like this. They are mainly used in small car refrigerators and things that don't have to be continuously cooled. Computer guys used these in conjuction with water cooling quite often.

The only issue I can see is you have to cool the opposite side somehow. The cold side's temperature is directly related to how cold you can get the "hotside"... so you have to have something cooling the hotside...

Worth a shot though if you have an unlimited budget....

[mdogg]

I'm skeptical of it, but here's some info on the peltier cooling I found on 6Club a while back....

Pictures Of My New Intercooler - Mazda6 / Atenza

[BlackMS3]

It's possible, but would most likely turn out overcomplicated and difficult to maintain.

A TEC or (Pelt) transfers heat from one side to the other when voltage is applied, effectively making one side very cold and the other hot. The cooler the hot side is kept, the colder the cold side will get. If the hot side is uncooled, then the cool side will never get cool. You must have an active way of removing heat from the hot side... this is done in conjunction with water cooling on a computer system....

.... Most computer nerds have given up on this approach and went with the simpler phase change setup....

[Speedy3]

I'm going to build a prototype. I'm an Electrical Engineer with tons of Mechanical Engineering experience. I'll make it work!

[Haltech]

I did a pelt setup on my Lightning for the track. I used these HUGEEEE copper heatsinks for the hot side. I used 4 60X60 pelts and a inverter to power the setup. I sold it to a fellow track mate when i retired my truck last year from racing. Ill have to see if i can find the pics of it. Total cost with the inverter was about $181 and it would get my intake down to the mid 50s in the staging lanes in 45 mins. The blower was roughly high 60s, which sat below the intake.

[Speedy3]

Originally Posted by Haltech I did a pelt setup on my Lightning for the track. I used these HUGEEEE copper heatsinks for the hot side. I used 4 60X60 pelts and a inverter to power the setup. I sold it to a fellow track mate when i retired my truck last year from racing. Ill have to see if i can find the pics of it. Total cost with the inverter was about $181 and it would get my intake down to the mid 50s in the staging lanes in 45 mins. The blower was roughly high 60s, which sat below the intake.

I learn something from you every post! Jesus, why don't you just write a thesis on all that you have done and learned!

[Haltech]

I did a lot of writeups and reviews for the mustang/Lightning stuff and it really burned me out. Constant bitching, fighting, etc. Always someone coming in a thread crapping your work, saying they can do better, but never producing anything. It takes a lot out of you. I also ran a truck club for 6 years which also got the best of me. I reached an all time burnout. Im thinking of doing a few writeups for the car, but my motivation is lacking, especially since i work nights now.

Some of this stuff could work for the MS3. I was thinking of making a cold chamber for the IC cold side... But there is so little room to work with it makes it not worth wild to try it. Ive got some ideas im kicking around, so we will see.

[4DRHTRD]

I was thinking of doing a reservoir with a peltier cooler on it instead of having to run ice in it. This way it would always be cooling the aluminum reservoir tank. For now I'm fine, I'll need a bunch more HP before I begin to tax the intake charge cooling capabilities of this setup.

[det_ms3]

wow the amount of shit i just learned about different methods of cooling charge temps is insane.

[Haltech]

Just make sure you insulate that alumn res. You would need one hell of a fucking heatsink for it too.. Were you thinking 60X60's? I would guess you would need 4 of them. Place them at the bottom with the cold side facing the bottom part of the res, than large heatsink facing downward. The air coming from the front end would cool it nicely. Than attach a flat piece to the bottom of the inside res that has fairly tall pin type heatsnks so the water would circulate around the cold pins.