Help-OEM Boost Control Solenoid

[TRSpeed]

Hey guys,

So to make this story short, I broke the INNER nipple on my BCS that connects to the WG. And NOT the one that goes to the TIP that usually breaks.

I ordered the OEM BCS ($52) and I was looking at the BCS and and it has little metal prongs that you squeeze to pull out( if that makes any sense) but I was wondering when I am putting it back in, how to I open the prongs back up since they are tiny and made of metal.

The Dealer wants $90 bucks just to install the Fucking part held in by ONE damn bolt in the bottom plus the metal prongs.

So I am wondering if anyone has done this before and can help me out in removing the BCS and replacing it with the new one.

Thanks

TRSpeed

[SSinstaller]

They are clamps, and will spring back as soon as you release pressure.

[Jake5713]

ummmmm
FUCKING FAIL
just take the hoses off and take off the bolt as mentioned above release the clamps they will spring back
now go bang your head against a wall for a while

[TRSpeed]

OK Guys so I just replaced the BCS. I made this post because when I ordered the part I did NOT now that the BCS was a whole piece and it was NOT incased in the Metal casing.

When I received the part I noticed it was ONE piece so it was just a simple bolt at the bottom like I thought.

So For anyone that needs to replace there BCS the part number is

1. BCS P/N L3K918741

2. Remove Battery Box

3. Remove SRI

4. Remove TIP

5. un screw the 10 mm bolt uner the Boost Control Solenoid.

6. Put everything back

Tada!!

PS. Dont forget the 4mm Hoses!! and be carefull with the nipples.

TRSpeed

[Jake5713]

You really don't need to take anything off
Maybe the intercooler cover

[TRSpeed]

Well mostly just to make this Alot easier lol

But Thanks

Sent from my DROID2 GLOBAL using Tapatalk

[Crazyspeed3]

Originally Posted by TRSpeed Well mostly just to make this Alot easier lol But Thanks Sent from my DROID2 GLOBAL using Tapatalk

wen ur BCS broke did it make any clicking sounds???

[Bob-o]

Originally Posted by TRSpeed Well mostly just to make this Alot easier lol But Thanks Sent from my DROID2 GLOBAL using Tapatalk

Agreed. I just recently replaced my BCS, and taking off the intake/inlet made things much easier! Ghood writeup lol

[TRSpeed]

Originally Posted by Crazyspeed3 wen ur BCS broke did it make any clicking sounds???

Not that I can think of, the sound is from the BCS.

Originally Posted by Bob-o Agreed. I just recently replaced my BCS, and taking off the intake/inlet made things much easier! Ghood writeup lol

Thanks man! ,

and ya if you dont take those 2 things of it just make a 2 min job a 45 min job.

Glad it helped

[Crazyspeed3]

sucks for me i only have an cobb sf and cobb AP stage1+ sf 93 for some reason im hitting 22 psi of boost with 0 WG i think my boost control is f up or the acuator it self

[TRSpeed]

Ok I had this same exact problem.

Its either Your WG Actuator. OR

For me it was a broken BCS nipple specifically the nipple from BCS to WG .

I have a thread somewhere about it. Look in my threads.

Edit: Found it. http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...-21-psi-93139/

My WG was also at 0 and 22psi

@Crazyspeed3

[Bob-o]

And if you break the other nipple, you get the complete opposite! Or at least i did...

WGDC at 100% and 12psi

[Crazyspeed3]

Originally Posted by TRSpeed Ok I had this same exact problem. Its either Your WG Actuator. OR For me it was a broken BCS nipple specifically the nipple from BCS to WG . I have a thread somewhere about it. Look in my threads. Edit: Found it. http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...-21-psi-93139/ My WG was also at 0 and 22psi @Crazyspeed3

cool man im ganna replace my bcs and my WG but its funny cuz i only get boost cut on a tune map at 18psi but wen i reflash to the cobb OTS map witch is stage 1+ SF 93 the boost cuts STOPS lol so its hard to say if i really have a bad bcs/WGA but thanks for the info bro

[rolanblack]

Did anyone have a problem with removing the 4mm hose? Its just completely rock solid.

[Ingle]

Originally Posted by rolanblack Did anyone have a problem with removing the 4mm hose? Its just completely rock solid.

Grab hold with a pliers near where it goes over the nipple and move twist/jiggle it back and forth and up at the same time(seriously). This will break the hose free since it's more or less fused there. Just be careful not to move it sideways that would cause it to snap with enough force.

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by TRSpeed Ok I had this same exact problem. Its either Your WG Actuator. OR For me it was a broken BCS nipple specifically the nipple from BCS to WG . I have a thread somewhere about it. Look in my threads. Edit: Found it. http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...-21-psi-93139/ My WG was also at 0 and 22psi @Crazyspeed3

Somehow, we need to have a way for guys (to warn them / alert them) to keep from busting their oem solenoid. It happens way too often, and is potentially dangerous for the engine.

I would definitely slice the factory vacuum line off and either use some line supplied with the TIP (if supplied), or have some handy before any tip install etc.

Glad to hear that you got things sorted guys.

[rolanblack]

Talked to a dude who works at Mazda and he told me that those nipples are easy to break nomatter what. Save it from happening, cut the hose from bottom to top then just out the aftermarket hose on. SAVES THE PLASTIC

[drg0708]

Originally Posted by Bob-o And if you break the other nipple, you get the complete opposite! Or at least i did... WGDC at 100% and 12psi

+1 on this. I broke this stupid thing installing my TIP, thought I had it fixed with a little sealant and just sticking the vacuum line on the end (so one hose up, one straight out from the BCS.) I know, I know...I just needed to get the thing running again. Everything looked fine, the dash boost meter was reading full pressure, but the butt dyno was a little underwhelmed at my new sri and tip. I got an AP and saw that my boost was actually peaking at ~15 and tapering to 12.5-13....with targets of 16.... and 100% WGDC. Thought it was boost leak for a bit, but swapped out my shade-tree mechanic fix for a new BCS and it feels like I'm driving a new car.
The lesson? Don't take short-cuts when fixing crap.

[Silverspec06]

Originally Posted by rfinkle2 Somehow, we need to have a way for guys (to warn them / alert them) to keep from busting their oem solenoid. It happens way too often, and is potentially dangerous for the engine. I would definitely slice the factory vacuum line off and either use some line supplied with the TIP (if supplied), or have some handy before any tip install etc. Glad to hear that you got things sorted guys.

I second this, I was just trying to do my interals trying to move the tip a little it came off trying to get it back on the hose broke... such a shit show

[twincitySPEED6]

I'm bringing this thread up again. I broke the outer nipple. I attempted the superglue way then I decided to just sand the whole thing down and attach a larger hose. No boost gauge so I can't see if I'm hitting full boost.
I feel laggy sometimes and other times I don't. My question is should there be some type of vacuum from the outer nipple? I pulled it one time when I was idle and felt nothing from it

[MSMS3]

Get a boost gauge -- you need one anyway!

Superglue is probably not working. Even if it does, it probably won't last long.

To avoid the same thing happening again, consider the Grimmspeed electronic boost control solenoid, run it regular two port mode. It is a "drop in" replacement for the stock part.

You would just leave your broken stock piece where it is. You mount the Grimmspeed solenoid to your battery box and connect the supplied hoses to your wastegate actuator and TIP. The electrical connection is a direct plug-in for your stock wiring -- no cutting or splicing. The great thing about the Grimmspeed is that the nipples are metal, not plastic, and you'll never have to worry about breaking them again.

And, if you every decide to get a Cobb AP you can use its three port mode.

GrimmSpeed

It will cost you about twice the cost of the OEM Mazda product, but the peace of mind coming from very sturdy metal nipples, quality construction, and easy access at the battery box make it more than worth it.

[Richys10]

Like most guys I broke my EBCS nipple as well and I was looking to replace it. I temporarily fixed it but I'm looking to purchase a oem one but I was wondering if anyone knew the part number?

[gdawg25]

Post #4 . Read it.

[MSMS3]

Originally Posted by Richys10 Like most guys I broke my EBCS nipple as well and I was looking to replace it. I temporarily fixed it but I'm looking to purchase a oem one but I was wondering if anyone knew the part number?

Get the Grimmspeed part instead. It is inexpensive and has metal nipples. You'll never break it.
It comes with new hoses and is easy to install. You leave them factory POS where it is and install the Grimmspeed unit to the side of your battery box. No reason to replace a plastic nipple with another one you will just break again, sooner or later.