HDI GT2 Pro FMIC install on MS6

[Flying_NEB]

After researching a bit, I decided to get this kit off ebay. It's double the cost of a CXR kit, but most people buy that kit just for the piping and then buy a TR8 core and then end up at a similar cost ($550 or so for CX Racing kit and TR8 core vs $600 for the HDI kit). I really didn't like how you had to cut the crash bar with the TR8 core, so I opted for this HDI kit.

Here are some pics and helpful info if you decide to do the same. First of all, I just finished this install and have not gotten my tune done (I also added a BNR S4 and an XS power manifold). Once that's done I throw up a data log for you datalogophiles.

First of all, when looking at the size of the TR8 vs this HDI, the HDI is about a half inch skinnier thus making it fit behind the crash bar, but it's also about 2" taller so the overall cooling area is bigger than a TR8. According to the HDI site, the GT2 should be pretty decent.

First of all, this video is VERY helpful:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJzxw-O8UuA&t=502s

However, this particular car is the australian version. I got my car in Canada but am assuming it's pretty similar to the US version.

The first big issue that I found was that the crashbar on my car is curved. So I still ended up having to shave a little bit out of the crash bar. It's not nearly as much as the Tr8, but it's still something I did not plan on. You definitely need a Sawzall or a large die grinder to cut through it. I started with a dremel tool which worked fine except for the inside back of the crash bar. I finally resorted to a sawzall which worked pretty well.

You can see where I had to cut. I ended up cutting about an inch to an inch and half in on the far ends and I think a total of about 7" from the outside edge towards the center.



So, once I got that figure out, I was moving forward!

You do have to move the windshield washer fluid resovoir, but that's covered in the video. I think the next thing that I encountered was the hotside pipe going up the passenger side. It didn't quite want to fit. I had to bend an ABS line out of the way a little but also there was a computer module that was there (not sure what it was for...maybe movable headlights? I had a module on the other side too). The corner of the module was hitting the IC pipe. So I ended up taking my dremel and cutting the corner off the metal.










So, once I shaved the corner I bit I then put a little piece of foam right on it so the IC pipe didn't rub much more.

On that same end is where the horn is located. In the video, somehow they just bend the bracket a little and it magically fits. I had to cut one horn off (mine had two horns on one bracket) and then flip the whole thing around. One horn is good enough to tell people to go at green lights, lol.




On the drivers side, you have to swap out the PS Cooler. The stock one sticks straight out and you can't really bend it out of the way. I got one off of amazon for $25 I think. It's only about 5-7" long. It comes with a zip tie type system to hang it, so I just used real zip ties. The first pic is the stock PS cooler, second pic is what I installed.






Next, The stock coupler to the turbo is not long enough. I ended up getting a longer 45 degree coupler. I think it's about 5" on either side of the bend. Then I cut off what I didn't need. Here's a pic of the stock one. You can see how it just doesn't come up enough.



Then I had to shave A LOT off the front bumper. The air diffuser was way too long and I cut it way back. But also, the backing for the fog light covers was hitting the corner IC pipes. So I ended up cutting all of that out.

It's hard to see in the pic, but you have your bumper off you can compare to this pic to see what I ended up doing.



[IMG]


Lastly, with my test drive I knocked the IC pipe that attaches to the throttle body off. This was because it really needs a 3" long coupler to connect to the TB but also, the shifter weight bracket is too long. In the video they say flip the weight to the top. That did nothing for me as I already have an aftermarket JBR weight. The bracket itself was hitting the pipe. So I shaved off one of the connecting holes and am only using one hole/screw on the bracket.





They give you a BOV adapter and it appears a silicone coupler and hose clamps. I opted to have mine welded on. Cost $35...not a big deal. However, I thought I lined up the BOV the way I wanted and marked it, but then when I got it on I realized I mis-aligned it. Oh well. Also, with this pipe that connects to the TB, you'll likely need a longer coupler. 2 3/4" diameter and about 3.5" long...maybe even 4. The pipe does not touch the TB, it's a bit too far away.



The dremel was my friend on this project. It took me a while, but I finally got everything and it fits. I wish this kit came with a coupler to the turbo and to the TB but such is life. I don't think you can use the stock stuff very well, so plan on buying those ahead of time.

I did paint my pipes. If I had it to do over again, I would get it all set up and "dry fit" and then take them out and paint them. I scratched a lot of it up. On the painting note, if you decide to paint yours, I used the Duplicolor metalcast. You definitely need the "adhesion promoter". Do at least 3 coats of that following the directions and then probably at least 5-6 coats of paint depending on how dark you want to go. Mine have about 6 coats I think.


Lastly Lastly, I'm a beginner and probably didn't do everything the way you would have. And that's the best part about doing your own work =) Feel free to ask questions, I'd love to help how I can.

[pwdunmore]

Good write up, I had a lot of the same issues you did when I installed it on the North American car.

Good idea for the power steering cooler. I have to adjust mine because it have it sitting way to close to the cold pipe right now. Extra hosing should solve that, like you did. I used the Damond power steering kit and modified the mounting bracket.

I flipped my shift weight upside down and moved the wiring it hits with a zip tie. I noticed I needed to move the wiring once I tried to shift into 6th gear lol...

[Thor Hammer]

Nice write up. Way too much cutting and hacking for me however. I wonder if one was custom fabricating the piping if all the cutting would be completely necessary.

I like the color you chose. Looks great!

[Flying_NEB]

Originally Posted by Thor Hammer Nice write up. Way too much cutting and hacking for me however. I wonder if one was custom fabricating the piping if all the cutting would be completely necessary. I like the color you chose. Looks great!

Yeah, if you were custom fabricating, you could make it without shaving as much. I got this because I THOUGHT I wouldn't have to shave as much stuff as I ended up doing. There just wasn't a lot of info on these forums or elsewhere.

The CX Racing kit should fit without all the trimming and shaving, other than getting a better core that might not fit behind the crashbar.

Ultimately, these cars just weren't designed to have an FMIC. I think it's much better for the car to have one, but such is life.

In the future I'm likely going to get a new front bumper and have it slightly customized so that it fits this IC well.

[Thor Hammer]

Picture of the front with the new FMIC?

I will probably go with the pipe kit and TR8 from RPM. Fabrication is not a problem where I work. So I'm lucky there.

Might pull the trigger on everything for the BNR S4 V2 with RPM while the tax sale is going on. Need to do a health check of my motor first.

[Flying_NEB]

Originally Posted by Thor Hammer Picture of the front with the new FMIC? I will probably go with the pipe kit and TR8 from RPM. Fabrication is not a problem where I work. So I'm lucky there. Might pull the trigger on everything for the BNR S4 V2 with RPM while the tax sale is going on. Need to do a health check of my motor first.

There's a pic of the front in the first thread. or are you meaning one without the bumper?

[tegxsi]

Not sure how good that HDI intercooler is. It's advertised as a tube and fin design.
TR6/TR8 intercoolers are bar and plate. Best bang for the buck. It's not always about size but efficiency.

louvered fins on the outside to extract heat away
IMG_20170307_170856.jpg

staggered fins in the inside for increased turbulence and surface area for better heat transfer
IMG_20170307_170811.jpg

[Flying_NEB]

I guess time will tell.

This is from their site www.hdimenu.com

[Flying_NEB]

I'm still getting the tune done - I'm on the second revision right now. Our ambient temp is around 50 and I've been getting BAT's around 75-80 after driving for a while.

Once the tune is final I'll post up some logs.