Change my TMIC to a FMIC ???

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by mazdaspeeding My car is faster with UR FMIC. Thats all you need to know. Lol.

I think this is all the OP needs to know.

[mituc]

Originally Posted by mazdaspeeding My car is faster with UR FMIC. Thats all you need to know. Lol.

...compared to the OEM TMIC - yes. Compared to another decent aftermarket TMIC - you'll never know (but I do).

[mazdaspeeding]

^^^ Not sure if you read but I ran the CPE TMIC for 2 months before I switched to the UR FMIC. Getting the lower BATS sooner and slightly lower BATS overall, especially on WOT pulls definitely made the car faster. I don't have dyno charts to back this up but I've definitely ran a good aftermarket TMIC and I'm happier/faster with the FMIC.

[Atomic41]

Somebody install a MD OCC V3 with a FMIC ?

If I want a FMIC + Cold air Intake + OCC on my speed3 does it possible ?

The MD OCC V3 :

- Mounted on the transmission, underneath the factory intake/short-ram intakes
- Designed to allow space with cold air intakes
- Easy to drain, the drain spout can be reached from above the engine
- Occupies the space for most front-mount intercooler piping

I already have a Cold Air Intake + MD OCC v3. Do I must keep my CPE TMIC ?

Thanks for your help

[Atomic41]

no idea ???

[4DRHTRD]

Originally Posted by Atomic41 I have a CPE TMIC right now. So I'm asking if it's a must to go with a FMIC. For now the Ultimate Racing can be my choice. i love the business and the customer service is AWESOME. I already have a gain when I go from my stock TMIC to the CPE TMIC. I paid 399$ 1 year ago ... but I just want to know if it's a good move to pay 600$ more to get less degree maybe but little turbo lag, a more agressive look ... etc I just want impression of somebody who have already did this move. Pass from a upgrade TMIC to a FMIC.

Stay TMIC but go to air to water intercooler, you'll get colder, better air and it will be an easier install. Install a small radiator up front, water tank in the trunk, pump in the front or rear and a simple in/out water to air where the factory TMIC was with some basic tubing between the new IC and the existing piping.

I had a custom one made to replace the factory TMIC and it was awesome for cold air all the time. Just keep the water resevoir out of the engine bay and you'll keep some great overall water temps.
Parts you need:
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http://www.frozenboost.com/product_i...oducts_id=1227
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[Atomic41]

Originally Posted by 4DRHTRD Stay TMIC but go to air to water intercooler, you'll get colder, better air and it will be an easier install. Install a small radiator up front, water tank in the trunk, pump in the front or rear and a simple in/out water to air where the factory TMIC was with some basic tubing between the new IC and the existing piping. I had a custom one made to replace the factory TMIC and it was awesome for cold air all the time. Just keep the water resevoir out of the engine bay and you'll keep some great overall water temps. Parts you need: Air to Water Radiator Air/Water IC Water to Air Ice Box Reservoir BOSCH COBRA LIGHTNING SVT WATER-TO-AIR INTERCOOLER PUMP on eBay!

Do you have some pics of your setup ?

[paveltol]

Originally Posted by himurax13 Hmm I have been running a CP-E TMIC and then I switched over to a CS TMIC. Although I may agree with the lower bats and possibly lower knock, I believe that a TMIC is more than enough for a stock Turbo. The only reason to go FMIC is that the BT will take up more room and a TMIC will not fit. I made the similar power with a TMIC and the Stock DP on my own tune and 10/35 more with a Stratified tune on 91 Octane on my Genpu . After going 100 ft from a stop, my BATS drop down significantly.

Did you notice any difference between the CP-E and Corksport TMIC? What was the reason of switching to CS?

[dale_gribble]

Here is a running thread of TMIC v. stock comparos. There is also a TMIC v. FMIC comparo that I ran.

http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...ost-em-131840/

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by paveltol Did you notice any difference between the CP-E and Corksport TMIC? What was the reason of switching to CS?

The CP-E looked prettier and the CS looked more stockish.

I believe top mounts start loosing their efficiency and start heatsoaking after 5,000 RPMs during 4th gear runs. On 3rd gear runs, that didn't seem to be an issue.

[4DRHTRD]

Originally Posted by Atomic41 Do you have some pics of your setup ?

The guy I sold it to put up pics of his install:
4DRHTRD's creation reborn! - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum

[Atomic41]

Nobody drive a FMIC + OCC + CAI here ?

Is it possible ???

[rolanblack]

Yes @TheFlash;

gen1 has horrible intercooler ducting. If you don't want to do this Lower your IAT's with SRI
then go FMIC

i would personally get a gen2 hood and call it a day. They don't heaksoak as bad as a gen1

[Atomic41]

Originally Posted by rolanblack Yes @TheFlash; gen1 has horrible intercooler ducting. If you don't want to do this Lower your IAT's with SRI then go FMIC i would personally get a gen2 hood and call it a day. They don't heaksoak as bad as a gen1

So it's a real solution ... it'S work for you ???

But it isn't as efficient as a FMIC ... no

[dale_gribble]

Trust me, TMIC + WMI FTW. Kick the $400 down and just get a WMI kit. I'm a believer. My temps will go lower and stay lower than any FMIC now. I wish I did it sooner.

The first time you do a WOT pull with WMI and your BATs drop below ambient and hold about 10F over your IATs at the end of the pull, pull after pull, you will thank me.

[lilred]

Originally Posted by dale_gribble Trust me, TMIC + WMI FTW. Kick the $400 down and just get a WMI kit. I'm a believer. My temps will go lower and stay lower than any FMIC now. I wish I did it sooner. The first time you do a WOT pull with WMI and your BATs drop below ambient and hold about 10F over your IATs at the end of the pull, pull after pull, you will thank me.

Stoooop I read this and it makes sense!

tapafuck

[crtguns]

Can tell you this... I just moved to Las Vegas...holy hell. HAD to buy a front mount. Car was hating it. Stupid traffic, long stop lights, Intake temp climbs up to 160+ at a red light. And it's not even summer yet. The top mount just needs to keep moving- that's the problem.

Still makes up to 130... but drops fast as soon as I move again.

[Atomic41]

Is it possible to go with FMIC and keep my MD OCC V3 because I have a Canadian MS3 ??

It's the only problem I can have if I go FMIC ... I don't know where I can put my OCC after ...

[Atomic41]

Originally Posted by Atomic41 Is it possible to go with FMIC and keep my MD OCC V3 because I have a Canadian MS3 ?? It's the only problem I can have if I go FMIC ... I don't know where I can put my OCC after ...

Suggestions ...

[Atomic41]

Anybody fit a FMIC + CAI + MD OCC ???

Somedy drive his speed3 with this setup ?

[Atomic41]

Must I drag my car if I want to go FMIC ?

[Atomic41]

No idea man ...

[secondchance]

Originally Posted by dale_gribble Here is a running thread of TMIC v. stock comparos. There is also a TMIC v. FMIC comparo that I ran. http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...ost-em-131840/

hard to take this seriously. Space restrictions on the front of the ms6 make it hard to do a real and fair comparison.

Originally Posted by dale_gribble Trust me, TMIC + WMI FTW. Kick the $400 down and just get a WMI kit. I'm a believer. My temps will go lower and stay lower than any FMIC now. I wish I did it sooner. The first time you do a WOT pull with WMI and your BATs drop below ambient and hold about 10F over your IATs at the end of the pull, pull after pull, you will thank me.

The initial cost may be equal to or lower then, but a front mount costs $0 to operate on a daily basis. Meth isnt overly cheap, and as someone who ran it on multiple platforms, unless you are psuhing a tonne of power and needing the octane boost, it isnt worth it long term.

[dale_gribble]

Originally Posted by secondchance hard to take this seriously. Space restrictions on the front of the ms6 make it hard to do a real and fair comparison. The initial cost may be equal to or lower then, but a front mount costs $0 to operate on a daily basis. Meth isnt overly cheap, and as someone who ran it on multiple platforms, unless you are psuhing a tonne of power and needing the octane boost, it isnt worth it long term.

You again?!

We've had this debate. You lost. No secondchances- literally and figuratively. You were talking out of your asshole and got collectively shut down. I can link that thread if you forgot about it.

[secondchance]

Originally Posted by dale_gribble You again?! We've had this debate. You lost. No secondchances- literally and figuratively. You were talking out of your asshole and got collectively shut down. I can link that thread if you forgot about it.

Lol, you mean by the kid who attempted to suggest wmi + am tmic would out perform a front mount like it was some hidden magical secret, or relevant ? Rofl, you got me bro. hahaha.

Go back in your hole child. You are clearly stupid enough to think wmi is only a cooling agent, and not an octane additive, and likely dont understand how or why WATER helps with cooling. I'll wait while you google it though.

[sidekick]

So the fact that it raises octane as well as cooling is a bad thing? You don't need the water for cooling either. 100% meth will also cool the intake charge.

Adding water to the mix fucks with the distillation curve of the methanol. Don't worry, I'll wait while you google distillation curves.

[Jpspeedthree]

Just to answer the question of "why mazda gave the MS a tmic". It's cheaper to mass produce. Less labor in the factory.

[dale_gribble]

@secondchance, you lost all credibility when you said that outside air passing through the intercooler is colder after passing through the intercooler.

Remember that nugget of wisdom?