Air Intake Questions

[william.fletcher2]

Why does it seem that the the consensus around here is ram air intake rather than cold air intake, I was looking around and didn't see any definitive answers.

I have the AEM intake currently and the list of mods below as well. My goal is 350-380whp (no idea where I am at right now) and a few people on the chat here mentioned I should switch to a 3 inch ram air intake. I know there are serious benefits for running cold air over ram air and it confuses me why people consistently on this engine run ram air. Also I saw that JBR offers a 3 inch Cold Air Intake piping set-up. If I do upgrade from the AEM intake I would see myself going there before anything else.

Any input is welcomed as always. And if anyone has any other advise please throw it out there. For those of you who do not know, I am currently deployed overseas and will be returning soonish and will be starting this work towards my goal soon after I get home. Freektune custom map is first step once I get home before any mod changes unless he has recommendations before I tune.

My vehicle info:
2008 Mazdaspeed3 GT w/Tech
17x9 Enkei RPF1
Sumitomo HTR Z II 235/40ZR/17 (Summer)
Blizzak LM-60 235/45/17 (Winter)
cp-e FMIC w/ 2.5" stainless piping
cp-e Stage 2 RMM
cp-e Tow Plate Relocation
Autotech HPFP Internals
AEM Mazdaspeed CAI
COBB Tuning Downpipe
COBB Catback Exhaust
COBB Turbo Inlet Hose
COBB BPV
COBB Accessport V2
COBB Front and Rear Swaybars
COBB Sport Springs
Bilstein Struts
Mazda Motorsport Rear Camber Link

[nindoja]

First, people run short ram intakes, not ram-air, unless they are running the CS ram-air intake + FMIC kit.

Second, a few degrees difference in intake air temps is marginal once the turbocharger heats the air. There are a few threads that this is discussed in, but basically most of your heat comes from compressing the air not from the intake air temps.

[UnknownSuperhero]

The slightly cooler air from a CAI is for not when sucked through the turbo. No gain there. The "ram" air intake really shines when the size opened up. I like 3.5-4", only shitty thing is relocating the ecu, or small battery which adds cost. The larger intakes really make it shine though.

*edit, damn beat me to it.

[pzr2874]

Cuz water

AND

Cost

Only 2 things I could think of right now.

oh, and read/search. Too much air isn't all what it's cracked up to be.

[william.fletcher2]

Originally Posted by nindoja First, people run short ram intakes, not ram-air, unless they are running the CS ram-air intake + FMIC kit. Second, a few degrees difference in intake air temps is marginal once the turbocharger heats the air. There are a few threads that this is discussed in, but basically most of your heat comes from compressing the air not from the intake air temps.

Thank you for the information... I was looking at the CS ram-air and that must be why that was on my brain when posting this. I have been doing as much research as I could over the last few days but I could not find anything that was a direct relation between the AEM intake and upgrading to a short-ram wideband intake. I saw the official intake thread and just basically gave me a description of each. Just seems that everyone I talk to about trying for that HP range instantly tells me to change out the AEM intake.

[SarcasticOne]

@Lex; did an article about it, look up the stratified blog

[william.fletcher2]

Originally Posted by SarcasticOne @Lex; did an article about it, look up the stratified blog

Ah thanks, was just on his site looking at the GA.

EDIT: Found the article I attached the link for anyone who wants to read through it as well...

http://stratifiedauto.com/blog/a-tec...turbocharging/

[JgamB]

If you want 350-380whp, you might want to add a new turbo to your list of mods. The risk of hydro locking the car in wet climates outweighs any possible minor reduction in intake temps.

I'd imagine the OEM ducting through the front fascia provides just as cool of air where the typical short ram filter resides, but I can't say I've ever tested it.

[william.fletcher2]

Originally Posted by JgamB If you want 350-380whp, you might want to add a new turbo to your list of mods. The risk of hydro locking the car in wet climates outweighs any possible minor reduction in intake temps. I'd imagine the OEM ducting through the front fascia provides just as cool of air where the typical short ram filter resides, but I can't say I've ever tested it.

After weeks of research, BNR S3 is top of my list for the Turbo Upgrade list. I am just getting all of the little things done first, and intend to do a turbo upgrade this upcoming summer. Figured I could actually put some miles on the stock turbo first so I know the difference. Bought the vehicle while I was here so I have not been behind the wheel yet myself. I bought a 2008 ms3 gt/ tech with only 15,2xx miles.

[h0rsies]

I have come very close to hydrolocking many times with my injen cold air. Even bigger risk if you plan on lowering your car.