What synthetic oil works best in the ms3 IYO

[marven]

My brother in law is running Royal Purple in his MS3 and I am wondering what others are running in their MS3?

[fred114]

Royal Purple is great oil. Some say the best. I run Mobil One, which is some good stuff, but mainly because I get a pretty good discount on it where I work. All previous cars I have run Castrol Syn-tec with no complaints.

[phantom3]

Mobil 1, full syn. here. Royal purple syncromax in the tranny

[gdg]

Originally Posted by marven My brother in law is running Royal Purple in his MS3 and I am wondering what others are running in their MS3?

I moved to royal purple from mobil 1 in my previous car, I will not put anything but Royal Purple in my speed. Love that product.

-GG

[08_ms3_gt]

Amsoil FTW. Paying $10 to become a 'preferred customer' yields decent prices, too.

I've got their 5W-30 synthetic in my MS3. I used it in my 1.8T and the stuff WORKS - I had like-new compression at 81k miles, nearly half of which were Stage2+ fun.

[gsrtype1]

I heard Amsoil is good and mobile one and penzoil. I use Royal Purple car runs real good on it!

[motocrosser614]

purple fluids FTW i switched at 10,000 and works great

[Haltech]

ive used Royal Purple in all my vehicles since 1997. I had it in the MS3 from 500 miles, but recently switched to Pennzoil Platinum based on the great oil analyst received with it at 26K. Another issue was with the 5/30 RP i was getting a huge amount of smoking out the tailpipe. When i switched over to the PP 5/40 Euro Formulation, all of my smoking disappeared.

The Royal Purple 5/40 is $10 a qt and reality is, if im going to spend $10/qt on their oil, i will buy Amsoil or Redline as its formulation is far some superior and true synthetic.

I can find the PP 5/40 for $5/qt online or even hit a Jiffy Lube that also carries it since finding it locally is a rare.

So to sum it up, majority of us need 5/40 and PP is a great oil for the $$. RP 5/40 is expensive and not worth it at that price point.

[gsrtype1]

Originally Posted by Haltech ive used Royal Purple in all my vehicles since 1997. I had it in the MS3 from 500 miles, but recently switched to Pennzoil Platinum based on the great oil analyst received with it at 26K. Another issue was with the 5/30 RP i was getting a huge amount of smoking out the tailpipe. When i switched over to the PP 5/40 Euro Formulation, all of my smoking disappeared. The Royal Purple 5/40 is $10 a qt and reality is, if im going to spend $10/qt on their oil, i will buy Amsoil or Redline as its formulation is far some superior and true synthetic. I can find the PP 5/40 for $5/qt online or even hit a Jiffy Lube that also carries it since finding it locally is a rare. So to sum it up, majority of us need 5/40 and PP is a great oil for the $$. RP 5/40 is expensive and not worth it at that price point.

So you think Amsoil is better than Royal Purple? I reeally like Royal purpe but rick sais amsoil is good.

[SLS MS3]

Pennzoil Platinum, I've gotten some really good oil analyses with it.

[dadasracecar]

Crossbow put a bunch of UOAs up that showed pennzoil platinum had the best results in these cars. It resists sheer due to fuel dilution better than all others. IIRC, M1 was one of the worst.

[802MS3]

Originally Posted by Haltech ive used Royal Purple in all my vehicles since 1997. I had it in the MS3 from 500 miles, but recently switched to Pennzoil Platinum based on the great oil analyst received with it at 26K. Another issue was with the 5/30 RP i was getting a huge amount of smoking out the tailpipe. When i switched over to the PP 5/40 Euro Formulation, all of my smoking disappeared. The Royal Purple 5/40 is $10 a qt and reality is, if im going to spend $10/qt on their oil, i will buy Amsoil or Redline as its formulation is far some superior and true synthetic. I can find the PP 5/40 for $5/qt online or even hit a Jiffy Lube that also carries it since finding it locally is a rare. So to sum it up, majority of us need 5/40 and PP is a great oil for the $$. RP 5/40 is expensive and not worth it at that price point.

hey can you point us to where you can find it online?

[gdg]

If anyone is bored, do a google search on streetcommodores Oils Ain't Oils.

It's like a 6 MB PDF download that has some decent comparisons on quite a few oils. I think it was back in 2004-2005 when they did this so there could be some differences at this point.

I still like RP and will stick with it through the life of my speed. My motor hasn't popped yet at lease

-GG

[Haltech]

Unless you are using the Racing fornula of RP, Amsoil is a better oil..

I buy my PP from...

Pennzoil Synthetics & Blends

[gdg]

Originally Posted by Haltech Unless you are using the Racing fornula of RP, Amsoil is a better oil.. I buy my PP from... Pennzoil Synthetics & Blends

I love you Haltech,

Is there some analysis related data that you can share that shows PP out performing RP, I will be more than willing to review it with an open mind as I would certainly like to put the best oil possible in my vehicle - besides from what you are stating above I could be saving money. I like that idea.

Other than personal use and comparison, I found the Oils ain't Oils article useful to determine that RP was pretty damn good stuff - even the non race.

Thanks,
-GG

[Haltech]

Originally Posted by gdg I love you Haltech, Is there some analysis related data that you can share that shows PP out performing RP, I will be more than willing to review it with an open mind as I would certainly like to put the best oil possible in my vehicle - besides from what you are stating above I could be saving money. I like that idea. Other than personal use and comparison, I found the Oils ain't Oils article useful to determine that RP was pretty damn good stuff - even the non race. Thanks, -GG

I know my RP was littered with fuel and shear from the last UOA. Since ill be doing my second PP oil change next week, i wont be able to do a UOA on it because its still got some RP in it. Either this oil change or the next, the oil system should be clean to do a PP UOA. Trust me, if you head over to Bob Is The Oil Guy - Powered by Motor Oil you will get an idea of why people are using PP these days.

Shell is who made this oil and stopped selling it under their label. Pennzoil got the formulation from them and theres good info on that site as to why pennzoil ended up with it.

[Fobio]

I was a loyal M1 fan until this car...made the switch over to PP...on sale this week for $25CDN for 4.4L...haven't smoked since...

was tracking hard on M1 once in the MS3 and had smoke...

[gdg]

Originally Posted by Haltech I know my RP was littered with fuel and shear from the last UOA. Since ill be doing my second PP oil change next week, i wont be able to do a UOA on it because its still got some RP in it. Either this oil change or the next, the oil system should be clean to do a PP UOA. Trust me, if you head over to Bob Is The Oil Guy - Powered by Motor Oil you will get an idea of why people are using PP these days. Shell is who made this oil and stopped selling it under their label. Pennzoil got the formulation from them and theres good info on that site as to why pennzoil ended up with it.

Interesting site Haltech.. this is going to be alot of reading.

Thanks much,
-GG

[BreakTheStatic]

What do you guys think about conventional Penzoil? I haven't done a UOA yet, but I change my oil every 3k. Is it worth spending the extra money on synthetic Penzoil if you change your oil frequently?

[Haltech]

Not much of a conventional pennzoil guy.

also, for those who cant find the PP, the same oil is a available under Quaker State but i havent been able to locate it yet.

[ATE BALLER]

Considering that whatever you put in is going to be mixed with ~1qt of whatever you had in there before, I wouldn't use any synthetic oil until the balance shaft assembly is out of there.

[802MS3]

Originally Posted by ATE BALLER Considering that whatever you put in is going to be mixed with ~1qt of whatever you had in there before, I wouldn't use any synthetic oil until the balance shaft assembly is out of there.

hmmm, good thought. What is the total oil capacity once the BS is removed?

[bova]

i heard rotella t 5w40 is good too.

my dealer does my changes with the oil i give them but i only give them 5.5qt to put it or a little less then i'll top it off if necessary. i still have the balance shaft.

[ATE BALLER]

Originally Posted by opt_ms3 hmmm, good thought. What is the total oil capacity once the BS is removed?

~6.8qts after the BS is out.

[Fobio]

Originally Posted by ATE BALLER ~6.8qts after the BS is out.

that'd be 6.5 litres for us metric folks.

[mz32quick]

I've used PP since my first oil change.

Generally I can find it on sale at one of the local places (Auto Zone, Advance, O'Reilly's, etc.) at a pretty decent price. They'll sometimes include a filter as well and I get that free filter for the CX-9 as I like using WIX filters.

[Haltech]

Originally Posted by mz32quick I've used PP since my first oil change. Generally I can find it on sale at one of the local places (Auto Zone, Advance, O'Reilly's, etc.) at a pretty decent price. They'll sometimes include a filter as well and I get that free filter for the CX-9 as I like using WIX filters.

Yea, i can find 5/30 all day long over here at poopboys, but the 5/40 on the other hand, a no go.

[Fobio]

why do you prefer 5w40 over the 5w30 that is so widely available? I used to hunt for oil myself but couldn't bother anymore...my friends hunt down German Castrol Syntec too...

[Haltech]

Originally Posted by Fobio why do you prefer 5w40 over the 5w30 that is so widely available? I used to hunt for oil myself but couldn't bother anymore...my friends hunt down German Castrol Syntec too...

Stopped all of my smoking issues Fob

[enganear]

I have been a loyal M1 user for over 30 years with no complaints. I have switched to PP after studying up on BITOG, the analyses do not lie. I use 10W-30, not 5W-30 because I live in NC where the weather is mild and I am usually parked in a heated garage. 10W-30 is also more stable than 5W-30, resisting viscosity reduction from shear better Personally, I think 40 weight is a little thick for this engine in most areas but I can't back this up with any real data. When an engineer specifies an oil, the upper viscosity is usually related to the operating clearances at full operating temperature. The lower viscosity is related to the same clearances at the coldest operating temperature. To those using 40W, I would just recommend that you make sure the oil is thoroughly warmed before using the engine hard. If I lived in Phoenix, I would probably be using 20W-50!
-enganear

[ksource]

I've gone from Mobil 1 to Royal Purple to PP and now I'm at Eneos.

Perhaps I'll go back to PP, but I got a good deal on the Eneos so why not try?

[CledusMS3]

I only use Amsoil. Currently using 5w-30 and got a great oil analysis after 8k miles. Blackstone labs recommended I go 9k and get another analysis done. On all my cars, I usually change the filter at 5k and oil every 10k. I'm gonna try the Amsoil European 5w-40 next. Alot have had excellent results with that oil. The $10 preferred customer deal is the way to go. Saves money if you order more than $80 worth of stuff. Amsoil has been in Automotive Synthetic Lubricant business longer than anyone. I've personally used them since 1987.

[Grim]

Originally Posted by bova80 i heard rotella t 5w40 is good too.

Thats what i use,ive got no smoking problems

[Haltech]

Originally Posted by enganear I have been a loyal M1 user for over 30 years with no complaints. I have switched to PP after studying up on BITOG, the analyses do not lie. I use 10W-30, not 5W-30 because I live in NC where the weather is mild and I am usually parked in a heated garage. 10W-30 is also more stable than 5W-30, resisting viscosity reduction from shear better Personally, I think 40 weight is a little thick for this engine in most areas but I can't back this up with any real data. When an engineer specifies an oil, the upper viscosity is usually related to the operating clearances at full operating temperature. The lower viscosity is related to the same clearances at the coldest operating temperature. To those using 40W, I would just recommend that you make sure the oil is thoroughly warmed before using the engine hard. If I lived in Phoenix, I would probably be using 20W-50! -enganear

Good to see ya checking back every once in a while! Its very warm out here in CA and i was hesitant using the 40 wt, but so far, ive had no issues. I do allow the car to warm up before hammering it. Ive considered 10/30 but ive also seen guys like Aaron running 10/40 without issues as well.

[Haltech]

Originally Posted by CledusMS3 I only use Amsoil. Currently using 5w-30 and got a great oil analysis after 8k miles. Blackstone labs recommended I go 9k and get another analysis done. On all my cars, I usually change the filter at 5k and oil every 10k. I'm gonna try the Amsoil European 5w-40 next. Alot have had excellent results with that oil. The $10 preferred customer deal is the way to go. Saves money if you order more than $80 worth of stuff. Amsoil has been in Automotive Synthetic Lubricant business longer than anyone. I've personally used them since 1987.

Definitely great oil but its also expensive, even with the preferred. Give the euro formula a try, im interested in your UOA with it.

[bova]

now i was doing some reading and see that "Shell Rotella T Syn" is a group III synthetic? i'm trying to read up on all the groupings but cant' find a good read. because its a group III does that make it not as good as other synthetics?

[Haltech]

Motor oil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Motor_oil

Amsoil really is the best

[atomicms3]

Originally Posted by Haltech Not much of a conventional pennzoil guy. also, for those who cant find the PP, the same oil is a available under Quaker State but i havent been able to locate it yet.

Would that be the QS Ultra Premium full synthetic?

[lidokrantz]

IMO changing your oil more frequently with this car is more important than what oil....but was recommended from my MAZDA dealer from day 1 to use Mobil1(thats what they use at the dealership)....i have from 600 miles and no issues and NEVER smoked....i think any good synth would be fine and for that matter probably Castrol GTX as well, my normal oil of choice all years prior ...but i do believe that synth is better for a turbo car.