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 Old 07-24-2010, 04:27 PM   #1
 
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Default Rear Stock motor mount mod

I've searched around but can't find anything on filling in the rear motor mount with urethane or anything else for that matter. Has anyone tried this and results if so. Thinking about picking up a stock motor mount and filling it in, to replace the stock.
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 Old 07-24-2010, 04:59 PM   #2
 
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I have it done it. I used 3m Window Weld...

little bit more vibrations felt and it seems to be holding up pretty good 1.5 years later
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 Old 07-24-2010, 06:18 PM   #3
 
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Originally Posted by TurboColtGT View Post
I have it done it. I used 3m Window Weld...

little bit more vibrations felt and it seems to be holding up pretty good 1.5 years later
did it subdue engine movement, improve shifts?
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 Old 07-25-2010, 02:07 AM   #4
 
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Honestly man, just save yourself the trouble and pick up an aftermarket mount. The install takes 10 minutes. I could even help you out if you want. They're cheap enough, and there is a range of options if you don't want one that is too stiff or too soft. They hold their value well too if you change your mind and don't want it any more. Just my advice. Picked up a motor mount before the car had a hundred miles on it and haven't looked back.
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 Old 07-25-2010, 03:02 AM   #5
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yo i have a cpe mm 60 duro as a paper weight since i don't have my car anymore. i'll sell it to ya for 50 bucks and help you install it.
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 Old 07-25-2010, 09:06 AM   #6
 
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I filled my stock mount with epoxy. Worked well for a bit but, eventually, all the epoxy cracked and fell out. Now, I have a Street unit mount. Much better.
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 Old 07-25-2010, 11:58 AM   #7
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It's already been done for you by CorkSport. They make urethane inserts that fill the entire motor mount.

Cheap as hell at only $35.00 bucks. I've had the CS inserts for almost 2 years now and everything is holding up great.
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 Old 07-25-2010, 03:26 PM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by jwdp54 View Post
yo i have a cpe mm 60 duro as a paper weight since i don't have my car anymore. i'll sell it to ya for 50 bucks and help you install it.
hmm i might have to take you up on that offer, is it a quick install (less then 15min), this weather sucks to do anything to your car. What part of phoenix are you in.
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GT3076 - Corkey tuned
Treadstone 3" MAF, HTP 3" turbo inlet, MSCBE, Turbo XS FMIC, CNT catted DP, CP-E HPFP,
Tial QR BPV, SURE TIG's, ITV24's,
CP-E Stage 2 RMM, Medefail Tranny mount, 18x8 245/40's
390whp/400wtq
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 Old 07-26-2010, 01:35 AM   #9
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north phx(19th ave and bell) but don't mind driving to help a fellow speed owner out. plus i like workin on cars. i could do it in less than 10 mins and have i have all the tools needed.
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 Old 07-26-2010, 05:45 AM   #10
 
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The CS inserts are a good way to go if you want to save some cash...However, I recently switched to a CP-e 60 duro, and it's a noticable improvement over the inserts. The full mount keeps the motor from lashing back and forth, so shifting is much improved...especially if you sit in a lot of traffic like I do.
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 Old 07-26-2010, 05:57 AM   #11
 
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just installed the rear motor mount for the speed6 two weeks ago, it is a huge difference, im guessing it will benefit the 3 the same way, shifting is better and when you take your foot of the gas there is much less movement in the car, great upgrade, new there all a little over 100 and intall is very easy, just buy a new piece and save your self the trouble of having the bushings pressed in and what not
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 Old 07-26-2010, 01:32 PM   #12
 
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What's the point in buying a brand new 23k car and skimping on a $100 part that keeps your engine from hitting the fire wall. Mounts unlike other mods like dp, tips for example, are not just for putting more power to the wheels, its also litterally keeping your car from falling apart or your engine falling out the bottom.
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 Old 07-26-2010, 07:04 PM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by TurboColtGT View Post
I have it done it. I used 3m Window Weld...

little bit more vibrations felt and it seems to be holding up pretty good 1.5 years later

^ that. An old school trick which works very well. Have had it for almost 2 years on 2 of the mounts in my DSM and have prothane in the other 2. Works great and a tube cost like 15 bucks at the auto store. I could have did all 4 mounts with 1 tube but only needed to do 2.
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 Old 07-27-2010, 03:07 AM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by jwdp54 View Post
north phx(19th ave and bell) but don't mind driving to help a fellow speed owner out. plus i like workin on cars. i could do it in less than 10 mins and have i have all the tools needed.
as long as the rmm is in good condition i'm game. I'm in gilbert but i can drive up there, we don't have to install since the heat is a bitch.

Originally Posted by mo4130 View Post
What's the point in buying a brand new 23k car and skimping on a $100 part that keeps your engine from hitting the fire wall. Mounts unlike other mods like dp, tips for example, are not just for putting more power to the wheels, its also litterally keeping your car from falling apart or your engine falling out the bottom.
budget tuning and modding.
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Current: N54 135i
DCI, DP's, Exhaust, FMIC
12.3@122


2009 Mazdaspeed 3:
GT3076 - Corkey tuned
Treadstone 3" MAF, HTP 3" turbo inlet, MSCBE, Turbo XS FMIC, CNT catted DP, CP-E HPFP,
Tial QR BPV, SURE TIG's, ITV24's,
CP-E Stage 2 RMM, Medefail Tranny mount, 18x8 245/40's
390whp/400wtq
12.8@114

Sold

Last edited by 86AmishMs3; 07-27-2010 at 03:07 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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