Mazdaspeed 3/6 UOA Results

[shpankey]

Wow man, that doesn't look good to me. Compare with my UOA above, which had the same mileage (overall) on the car. Your copper wear is terrible. Mine by comparison was 12. Yours was 78. That's huge. This is why I don't like M1 5w-30. It always has high iron wear and sometimes copper too. I would seriously change oils if I were you.

[802MS3]

Originally Posted by shpankey This is one heck of an impressive UOA. Your silicon is high, which means you needed to change your air filter, which explains the higher than avg Iron. Despite that, you wear is great. If you had a clean filter, I'd dare say you'd have the best UOA of this engine I've ever seen. The 40 weight Pennzoil Platinum perfectly sheared down to a high 30 weight. Which is awesome and I'm guessing exactly what you wanted. Any chance you have another new UOA with this oil? I'd love to see the numbers on a clean run with a good air filter, I'd bet they would be astonishing. I'm going to compare my German Castrol run to this UOA and decide which one to go with. But I'm MIGHTY impressed with the PP 5w-40 Euro formula!! Here's some online for those that are interested ($32 for 6 quarts)... Pennzoil Synthetic 5W40 European Formulation - Case 6/1 Qt Note these Euro formulations are made specifically for long drain intervals. This oil could go 7k miles easy, even on our engines.

sorry I thought I posted the last one up. Check out this one, I ran it longer, and still had good results.

[shpankey]

Originally Posted by opt_ms3 sorry I thought I posted the last one up. Check out this one, I ran it longer, and still had good results.

WOW! That is flat out awesome UOA. The 40w sheared down to a high 30w, which is what our car calls for anyhow, so it's perfect. This is the best UOA I've seen to date. Good to see you got your silicon down, that obviously helped. Man, this oil is the bees knees. We need to get the word out.

Dude, did you post this on BITOG? If not, do you mind if I link to it from there and of course credit you. What was your driving like? Hwy, cty, etc.?

[802MS3]

Originally Posted by shpankey WOW! That is flat out awesome UOA. The 40w sheared down to a high 30w, which is what our car calls for anyhow, so it's perfect. This is the best UOA I've seen to date. Good to see you got your silicon down, that obviously helped. Man, this oil is the bees knees. We need to get the word out. Dude, did you post this on BITOG? If not, do you mind if I link to it from there and of course credit you. What was your driving like? Hwy, cty, etc.?

I didn't post it anywhere else. Yeah no problem, link away.

My driving was a combination of a lot. My commute to work is about maybe a 10 minute drive, city. I always try to run it for the full 10 minutes though, and never hammer on it unless its been running for at least 10-15. I did a few road trips too on that oil, mostly from Burlington to PA, 800mi round trip, so theres a big chunk of highway miles too.

Other than the commute, and the road trips its all city. And lots of beating on the car too. I'm not abusive, but I'm not shy about feeling the torque

[nyghtryder]

Well I changed to rotella t6 synthetic so well see what happens on this next one. Other than copper did you see any areas for concern? What is high copper lvl attributed too? I dont know if I can use PP yet just seen alot of damage penzoils done in the past.

[Frequentflyer]

Originally Posted by opt_ms3 sorry I thought I posted the last one up. Check out this one, I ran it longer, and still had good results.

Awesome TBN for that kinda mileage on the oil. It's consistent too. If people are changing this oil every 3,000 miles, they're definitely wasting their money.

[802MS3]

yeah, but this time I'm not going to have as many miles on this oil change. Its been 4 months and I've barely put 3,000mi on it.

[FreeFlyFreak]

Here is my latest. 4100 on dealer oil. 22K on car

[shpankey]

Originally Posted by FreeFlyFreak Here is my latest. 4100 on dealer oil. 22K on car

This is not good. You have some pretty bad fuel dilution going on despite what they say. Look at your flashpoint. Your wear is awesome though so it looks like it didn't effect the oil's ability to protect. Still, I'd find a new oil.

btw opt_ms3, BITOG was most impressed w/ your UOA!!

[802MS3]

Originally Posted by shpankey This is not good. You have some pretty bad fuel dilution going on despite what they say. Look at your flashpoint. Your wear is awesome though so it looks like it didn't effect the oil's ability to protect. Still, I'd find a new oil. btw opt_ms3, BITOG was most impressed w/ your UOA!!

can you post the link to your thread?

[shpankey]

Crap, sorry. I meant too and somehow forgot! lol

PP 5w40 Euro, 6091 mi. on oil, 08 Mazdaspeed 3 - Bob Is The Oil Guy

[bova]

here is my latest UOA on about 4000 miles of shell rotella t-syn 5w40. i love this oil. this wasn't at a change, this was just a sample so i'm going to take their recommendation and probably change it around 5k miles or so.

[shpankey]

Is that the new T6? Wow, very impressive. That is some stout oil!

[Frequentflyer]

Yeah, Rotella is the shit. I've been using it for about 30,000 miles. I change it every 5-6k myself. I'm due for another Blackstone analysis for my next change, but my previous samples have always turned good results. Note the high zinc and phosphorus, which are anti-wear additives. That is however what makes this oil harder on catylitic converters.

Has anyone determined whether the new T6 is different than the old Rotella T Syn. According to their site it is in fact a "reformulation".

[bova]

this wasn't the new formula, that is going in as soon as i do a change in a few weeks.

[FreeFlyFreak]

Originally Posted by shpankey This is not good. You have some pretty bad fuel dilution going on despite what they say. Look at your flashpoint. Your wear is awesome though so it looks like it didn't effect the oil's ability to protect. Still, I'd find a new oil. btw opt_ms3, BITOG was most impressed w/ your UOA!!

I am looking at my flash point and dont see what you are talking about, of course the flashpoint will be lower than the people running 10/40.
I had some oil dilution in the first sample because I did not get the car up to full operating temp before getting it changed.
The recent sample, I went for a run to get the car/oil fully warmed up, hence the trace of fuel.

Also notice the flash point is lower for my first sample with the fuel than for my second without.

Is see no problems here, please enlighten me on what you see in the flashpoint that makes you think there is more than the trace of fuel they are calling it.

[shpankey]

Your flashpoint was 355, that's extremely low. Combined with the terrible shearing. Those are all signs of fuel dilution. Oh, and getting your car's oil fully warmed up doesn't cause the trace of fuel. Fuel comes from things like lots of idling or short trips. Blackstone recommends to drive the car for 20 plus minutes before getting a sample. I take my car out for a 30 minute highway drive. Again, you can stick with that oil if you want, but it's not holding up very well compared to some of these UOA's like the Rotella and the 5w40 PP Euro and GC.

[FreeFlyFreak]

Originally Posted by shpankey Your flashpoint was 355, that's extremely low.

Extremely low compared to what?
It seems normal to me for an oil sheared down to 5/20 with a trace of gas also, of course it will be a lower flash point than a 10/40.

Combined with the terrible shearing.

Turbo cars shear oil, the original recommendation for this car was 5/20, the same as the regular 3.
The manual was then changed very shortly afterward to recommend 5/30 for the turbo 2.3.
Did you ever think that the recommendation was changed by the engineers at Mazda so that the oil would shear down to the recommended 5/20 viscosity during use. How is that terrible?

Oh, and getting your car's oil fully warmed up doesn't cause the trace of fuel. Fuel comes from things like lots of idling or short trips. Blackstone recommends to drive the car for 20 plus minutes before getting a sample. I take my car out for a 30 minute highway drive. Again, you can stick with that oil if you want, but it's not holding up very well compared to some of these UOA's like the Rotella and the 5w40 PP Euro and GC.

Apparently you misunderstood mt post, driving my car till fully warmed up is what I said I did, that is why there was only a trace of fuel.
My first analysis showed 1.5% fuel because I took a short trip to the dealer, the car never got warmed up, and the oil contained fuel.
My second/last analysis, I fully warmed the car up as per Blackstones recommendations, and the oil contained only the trace of fuel.

Personally I am not worried about it, Oil analysis is to detect major problems such as major fuel dilution, unusual wear metals, a defective filter or leak of unfiltered air, coolant in oil, remaining additive, and to assess the oil change interval.
Anything else is really BS IMO.
The analysis shows no problems, and the car uses not a single drop of oil over 5000 very hard miles, see avatar for details.

[hnda etr]

My first UOA, looks pretty good according to Blackstone...

07 MS3
~45K miles

I think the oil was Rotella, but I usually use Castrol Syntec 5w-40 ( used to only use M1, before I switched to 5w-40)

Is it suggested to run 10w-40, instead of 5w-40?

Live in Los Angeles area, so I'm never going to see below freezing temps.

[shpankey]

I'm taking it you ran the oil 3,500 mi? Blackstone has that as your total mi but I see here you said it has 45k. If so, ya, that is one hell of a UOA! Copper wear 1? Wow. The oil held up flawlessly and could have gone much longer if you wanted to. No shearing out of grade, no fuel dilution. Everything is just about perfect as can be. Are these all highway miles or something?

Anyhow yeah, Rotella is a great oil that works extremely well in our app. Your UOA is just yet again more proof of that. You've got one heck of a nice wearing car too.

[hnda etr]

Originally Posted by shpankey I'm taking it you ran the oil 3,500 mi? Blackstone has that as your total mi but I see here you said it has 45k. If so, ya, that is one hell of a UOA! Copper wear 1? Wow. The oil held up flawlessly and could have gone much longer if you wanted to. No shearing out of grade, no fuel dilution. Everything is just about perfect as can be. Are these all highway miles or something? Anyhow yeah, Rotella is a great oil that works extremely well in our app. Your UOA is just yet again more proof of that. You've got one heck of a nice wearing car too.

Yeah, ran the oil for ~3500 miles... Car has ~45k on it...

I usually use the castrol syntec, but I guess I'll have to do an analysis of that oil too, to see how it holds up compared to rotella.

I also only run M1 or B&M (rebadged M1) oil filters - the larger size since I Have the spin-on conversion.

The majority of my miles are highway.

I also run an OCC and 50/50 Meth, so those should help too...

Any opinion on the 10w/40 vs 5w/40?

Thanks for the input!

[shpankey]

You're in a warm weather climate and summer is approaching. I'd go with 10w40. Typically the larger the spread on the numbers the more an oil will shear due to having more viscosity index improvers. So since the spread between 10 and 40 is less than the spread between 5 and 40, it will be more shear resistant. I'd go with the 10w40.

[shpankey]

I changed out my German Castrol and put in some Rotella T6 5w40. This is for my summer run, should do better in the heat. Hard to deny the impressive UOA's this oil has had.

I wanted to go with the Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5w40 as it looks a little better to me, but I would have to order it online and it's a bit more expensive. The Rotella T6 is readily available and extremely well priced!

[Mizzle]

Remind me - I have an old analysis to post as well as one up-coming with the use of Marvel's Mystery Oil (only one 'brave' enough to try it.)

[pipe]

Here's my first UOA. I've ran PP 5w30 since the second oil change and usually change it every 4500 - 5000 miles. I did this UOA with only 3500 on the oil because that weekend I went to a cruise with hard driving and didn't want put the engine at risk.

Experts, please chime in. Thanks!

[shpankey]

Ran the T6 Rotella for 1k miles and just put in some Redline 10w40. Group V polyol ester's baby. There is NO SUBSTITUTE!

Turbo spools up like never before, engine is so f'n peppy now!! Wow I'm shocked. Redline ftmfw! This is all I will ever put in my car again. 6% NOACK is godly! That along with the esters should dramatically reduce intake valve deposits known for Direct Injected vehicles. It's expensive but man, I don't think I could ever go back.

[nyghtryder]

Do any autoparts stores carry redline products? Whered you get yours from.

[shpankey]

I bought it online through Amazon. Order by the case (12 quarts) for a cheaper price. This oil has a NOACK of only 6% and is ester based. This will dramatically cut down on intake deposits formed by the Direct Injection. It has has an extremely high HTHS rating!! Easily the best oil for our cars.

[hnda etr]

Originally Posted by shpankey I bought it online through Amazon. Order by the case (12 quarts) for a cheaper price. This oil has a NOACK of only 6% and is ester based. This will dramatically cut down on intake deposits formed by the Direct Injection. It has has an extremely high HTHS rating!! Easily the best oil for our cars.

Can you explain what makes it better than say, M1 or Syntec...? Are other oils not "ester based" and what is that exactly?

HTHS rating?
NOACK?

sorry, oil noob

[nyghtryder]

Im noob to the oil stuff to but if you look at my m1 synthetic uoa's they are pretty bad compared to those using pp or rotella. Im now using rotella since im a pp hater-discussion for another day-and i will have a new uoa for the rotella to hopefully get me in spec with the wear patterns of others using better quality oils. Best bang for the buck is definately rotella and theres enough uoa's to back it.

I too am interested in what makes the redline so good.

[letzleta]

I agree that PP and Rotella UOA's look better than Mobil 1, however, at a 5k mile interval I can't see it making that much of a difference. Sure the UOA's look better, but has the M1 been out of spec? As long as it is doing what is intended at the time you drain it, that is what matters in my book. If you are looking for extended drain periods then yes, I agree PP and Rotella make a better choice.

Am I wrong? I have not changed the oil in my car yet and am trying to learn as well.

[letzleta]

to the top, anyone? I am changing my oil for the first time on thursday and trying to decide between M1, Rotella, and PP.

[2007speed3]

i have been using Rotella for the past 20k miles, love it.

I first used mobile 1 it would reek of gas after 1k miles i switch to PP then it was great untill i started to smoke. So i now use 5w-40 Rotella and havent looked back.

[letzleta]

I bought 6 quarts of PP 5w30 yesterday ($30 after coupon), but now I notice that people are talking about the European formula. I feel like I am back to square 1 and have no idea what to run. Is the regular PP good or only the Euro formula? (I plan to go with 5000 mile drain intervals)

[802MS3]

if youre running the stock exhaust, 5w-30 is fine.

[pipe]

Originally Posted by letzleta I bought 6 quarts of PP 5w30 yesterday ($30 after coupon), but now I notice that people are talking about the European formula. I feel like I am back to square 1 and have no idea what to run. Is the regular PP good or only the Euro formula? (I plan to go with 5000 mile drain intervals)

you will be fine. i've ran pp 5w30 for 40k miles

[letzleta]

Changed the oil yesterday at 3202 miles. It was black. I took a sample and will be sending it to Blackstone.

And on that note, those of you that have sent oil in for analysis... Did you tape the lid on the container from blackstone? I don't like the fact that my credit card info is in there.

[bova]

yes tape the lid

[hnda etr]

Originally Posted by letzleta Changed the oil yesterday at 3202 miles. It was black. I took a sample and will be sending it to Blackstone. And on that note, those of you that have sent oil in for analysis... Did you tape the lid on the container from blackstone? I don't like the fact that my credit card info is in there.

I sent a check instead of putting cc info...

[letzleta]

Originally Posted by hnda etr I sent a check instead of putting cc info...

I thought about that as well, but would rather have my CC info stolen than my checking account info. Oh well, I sent it today with the lid taped.