The CV axle guide

[SweetLew]

I don't generally like to start new threads, but I had a rough time finding all the info and recommendations I wanted for brands, installation, performance, and pricing. So here is my attempt at making it easier for the next guy, a summary or compilation of what I learned.

So both of my CV axles have been spraying grease for a good month or so and it was time to finally replace them. This will vary from case to case, many people feel strongly that if you catch it early enough, you can just re-grease and replace your cv boots. I've always felt that is more hassle than it's worth, it's usually about the same amount of time and work to just replace the whole thing while you're in there. But how you handle it is up to you, there is no right or wrong route to take.

Test Mule:
2008 Mazdaspeed 3 - 310 whp // 364 tq on a dynojet (91 oct)
No aggressive fitment, I'm on 18x8.5 Rota's with a very mild offset (close to stock) and 5mm spacers all the way around.
Lowered on Cobb springs (blue).


Part options:

Empi

I ordered this part through RockAuto.com, who might I add has great customer service and was able to process my order within a couple hours and I had my part two days later. Empi manufactures NEW axles, not re-manufactured (which brings a little peace of mind). I had no fitment issues whatsoever, and the part seemed to be great quality. I have the Empi axle on my passenger side and have no noise and zero issues with it thus far. (500 miles) This part came in at just about $70.00, and is a great budget alternative to OEM replacement in my opinion.

O'reiley auto parts

O'reiley, Autozone, and pretty much any other local parts shop will source their axles from A-1 Cardone, who rebuilds cv axles. I ordered one from a buddy who works at O'reiley and got it about a week later. It looked great, came with a new axle bolt, was all cleaned up and greased. Then I went through all the trouble to install it (driver's side), and once all put back together it clicked really loud in all directions. I called O'reiley and they deemed it as a defect, gladly took it back and issued me a refund (about $80). I'm certainly not saying re-man'd axles are a no go, but you should definitely beware because they are not always done correctly and will cost you more time and effort than should be necessary. However in their defense, they offer a lifetime warranty.. it's just a matter if you feel like taking the chance of having to replace it again.

Mazda OEM replacement

-Not remanufactured, brand new part.
-Highest quality and best fitment
-Mazda will always guarantee their parts if something goes wrong.
-Generally will be in-stock and you can have your car back on the road later that afternoon.

I ended up going with OEM on my driver's side because of the little incident with A-1 Cardone's part, I couldn't wait another 5-7 business days for them to send out a new one. So I shelled out $313.00 for a brand new CV axle, plus the refunded core charge of about $85. I had it installed and back on the road in the matter of a couple hours, and I definitely don't regret paying the extra cost. Keep in mind as well that dealerships do not have set prices, just as you can negotiate the price on a car you can generally get the price down a little on parts as well. Don't go in there and be "that guy" that gives the salesman a hard time, but if you're cool with them, they'll generally be cool back and cut you a deal. For example we have a local Utah Mazdas discount for parts and my guy knocked a little more off the already discounted price.


So to sum it all up, I highly recommend RockAuto.com for someone in a pinch and really just needs a cheap part fairly quickly. There's no shame in getting the knock off if you just need to get back on the road.

For complete peace of mind, go with OEM parts. Although a little more pricey, they're in-stock, guaranteed best fitment, and will perform just like brand new.

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Installation:

The install is very straight forward, I highly recommend doing it yourself.

Tools/Materials:
-PB blaster
-socket set (axle nut is 32mm)
-crescent wrench set
-Heavy hammer or mallet
-Pry bar with an end about 1/2" thick

1. IMPORTANT! Loosen the axle nut preferably before the wheel comes off. I had tried a brand new 500 ft/lbs air gun on the bolt + pb blaster and it wouldn't even move. So I jacked the car up just a few inches and basically using a stock jack as support, I got an old 6' galvanized steel pipe we used as a make shift wakeboard tower a few years back, to be my breaker bar. The more leverage the better, because I barely had to push on the breaker bar to break the nut loose.

Like a boss-


2. Unbolt the wheel, set it aside
3. Take out the two caliper bolts (14mm I believe) and use a bungee cord to hoist the caliper up and attach it to your springs. This will keep it out of the way without having to completely disconnect the caliper.
4. Remove rotor. PB blaster and a mallet have always worked best for me.
5. Remove the strut rod and lower control arm connections. See diagrams.



Blow up of the lower control arm connection:


6. The driver's side is a little trickier than the passenger, and the key here is to get creative. You don't absolutely need a pry bar with a 1/2" tip, but just about anything you can wedge in the gap between the cv axle and the transmission will give you some great leverage to smack it out. As for the passenger side, you can usually just pull it out with some force.
** if you're doing the driver's side, be sure to have a container ready, some trans fluid will trickle out.
7. The rest is easy, make sure to grease up the grooved connections and do everything in reverse order. Also remember that if you get the part from Mazda, they will not include a new axle nut or the ABS stator ring that goes around the driver's side cv axle. I just re-used the axle nut and ring from my old one.
When all is said and done, be sure to check your trans fluid and top it off if necessary. Then take it easy for 50-100 miles to make sure everything is broken in properly.

Of course all this installation info can be found in the shop manuals in the VIP section, but I couldn't get them to download. (very well could have been because I'm on a Mac, but be sure to donate and give it a shot.)


I'm no pro, so please add any input or tips you have.

Thanks for reading and good luck!